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Old 11-13-2008, 03:06 AM   #61
reddirtjoe
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Location: Let's Ride some red dirt!!.... NorthCentOklahoma
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lgotler did you get the pm i sent? (( top of my wish list is a carb( or at lest metering rod and clip)) i got outbid on parts again
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:38 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddirtjoe
lgotler did you get the pm i sent? (( top of my wish list is a carb( or at lest metering rod and clip)) i got outbid on parts again
I did, just have the kids every night this whole week, then I've been sick, been hard to do anything I want to do! I'll probably be able to get pics in a day or two and send 'em to you.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:18 AM   #63
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See pictures of your bike is bringing back memories of my 71 RT1 Yamaha. It was a 360cc single and a fun bike to ride around on....
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Old 11-18-2008, 09:00 PM   #64
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Well, Thursday I'm heading up to Munising, MI for some hunting and daytime tooling around. I can be on the shoulder of the roads up there without a license, so I can test her out around the area wearing bright ORANGE! Supposedly there is about 2' of snow at the cabin, so I might just look at it on the trailer, but if I can, I'll ride.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:55 PM   #65
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That was a crappy trip! 3' of snow, so I rode 100 yards, turned around, then back 100 yards. Then when I was going to load it up on the trailer again, I got it started, then it died and sounds very bad trying to start it up again, something metallic in the engine noise!

So, I get to tear the engine apart all the way this time.



On the positive side, I can get it into neutral now with it running!
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:21 PM   #66
reddirtjoe
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Location: Let's Ride some red dirt!!.... NorthCentOklahoma
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mine lives!!

trying to attach a short video of mine running
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:22 PM   #67
reddirtjoe
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A big thanks to lgottler for the parts
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Old 02-21-2009, 03:22 PM   #68
EuroFreek
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"Front end acts like its just a brick between the wheel and me. It cycles just fine with me on it, but going over bumps, its wayyy too stiff. No give at all. I think braking it dives about 1" on a hard brake. I can jump on it and get it about 3" of travel.
Your front forks probably need to be flushed and new oil added. Take the fork tops off and remove the springs. Put some kerosene in them and move them through the stroke until the kerosene comes out clean. You can use ATF fluid for fork fluid. The amount should be in your manual.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:59 PM   #69
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I kinda did that, minus the rinsing with Kerosene. I drained them both, looked clean, so I dumped it back in......or did I put 30wt oil in....too long ago, don't remember.

I did a bad thing last fall. On the way home from our trip, I couldn't find a bag anywhere, no tarp, nothing, so I said oh well and left the bike uncovered on the way home. Well, tons of road salt sprayed on it, all over it. I wiped it off when I got home and doused it with some oil and wiped that all over then stored it outside under a tarp. Well, I uncovered a rusted corroded bike. I washed it off best I could and wiped off most of the dust. I need something to spray on it to battle corrosion now.

Anyways, I figured out the problem why it wouldn't start, a sheared wood ruff key on the whatchyamacllit magnetic round spinner thing. I think the nut backed off and then it sheared the key. I fixed it, put some locktite on the nut and ran it on with an impact.

She fired right up after that. Even sitting all winter!

I still think the engine noise is louder than normal, like growling bearings.
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:25 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
The cheap fuel filter I picked up at AutoZone broke. Actually it fell apart overnight. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a steel encased one...possibly a car fuel filter....? And I need to locate 5/16" clear plastic fuel line, I'm using black fuel hose now, but I'd like to see the state of gas as it enters the carb.

Sparky! Thats why I bought a spark tester!

I'm actually at work now, I'm planning on welding a new nut on the front fender bracket and making a new front adjustable screw for the brakes. We'll see what happens tonight.

I can't think of much else. The oil injector pump is rotating, but I need to put some oil through it to make damn sure it works!

I don't have some rubber tie downs for the battery or the tank, I might zip tie stuff with some rubber isolators on each.
On the injection pump, there should be a bleeder screw somewhere on the outside (facing out) of the pump body. I'd put some oil in the tank and open the screw and see if the oil makes it way out of the screw hole. I think that this screw is "plated" a greenish color. There are marks on the cable drum and the carb slide, (Well at least there are on a '70 L5T..) that need to be at the same point on the adjustment when the throttle is opened.

The plunger on the pump should always be moving some when idling. There are couple of washers that adjust this stroke. I'd adjust for a little more smoky instead of a little less if you're not sure about the adjustments.
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:55 PM   #71
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I bought this DT125 for my son last week.

ITs got an extra cable that goes to the oil injector that splits from the the throttle cable. I checked this one by pulling oil injector line off the carb, it moved almost no oil at idle. With it revved up to 6k it dropped a drop or two after 30 seconds.

I didn't see any mention of the injector cable.
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Old 03-30-2009, 08:11 PM   #72
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After rebuilding it, it just doesn't pump well. I have oil at the pump, but nothing really comes out the engine side. I just use mixed gas now, better safe than sorry. One day I might revisit this issue. I bet I just need a better rebuild of that pump.
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Old 03-31-2009, 01:29 PM   #73
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A note to the 125cc slowskis,, the 175 uppers swap directly over and at that small a displacement, 50cc makes a huge difference.
I learned to ride on one of these old CT1s, great old dirt/enduro bike!
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:37 PM   #74
YamaGeek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish

I bought this DT125 for my son last week.

ITs got an extra cable that goes to the oil injector that splits from the the throttle cable. I checked this one by pulling oil injector line off the carb, it moved almost no oil at idle. With it revved up to 6k it dropped a drop or two after 30 seconds.

I didn't see any mention of the injector cable.
Even when properly adjusted it's not going to move a lot of oil, even when revved. Here's a trick to see if it's moving any oil at all.. do this with the bike idling.

Remove the cover from over the oil pump and loosen the banjo bolt that the plastic oil feed line from the pump exits. Start the bike and let it idle. Loosen the banjo bolt just enough to introduce a small bubble of air to that can be seen through the tranluscent line, then tighten the banjo bolt again.

While the bike is continuing to idle, you should see the bubble move in small jumps timed to the plunger's up and down stroke. It won't be much movement, maybe a few mm's or so. If you can, pull the pump stroke cable out of it's cable stop housing so it pulls some cable on the control sheave of the pump, the ramp on the sheave should allow the pump stroke to increase and the bubble should move in greater jumps. Even on my little 80 cc YG5T the oil pump moves the bubble enough to be easily seen when at idle.

You have to crack open the banjo bolt while the bike is idling as there is enough vacuum to pull some air into the end of the feed pipe. Other wise this doesn't work. don't forget to snug the bolt after the test and make sure there's no slack in the oil pump's control cable The carb slide and the pump cable shaeve should move as one.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-02-2009, 11:21 AM   #75
Jtz
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Awesome job. A maroon version of this bike was my cousin's first bike. He still has it. Boy did we have some crazy fun times with it.

-JT
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