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Old 04-16-2009, 05:09 PM   #76
lgottler OP
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I built a hitch carrier for it so I was able to finally take it somewhere to test drive it.

It drove just fine for about 5 minutes, then it started to sputter at full throttle/load (5k rpm ish), kinda skip and fire wrong....then it cut out at the top of a hill. Had a hell of a time getting it to start again, but it did eventually, didn't want to stay running, ran rough, had to blip the throttle and keep it about 3k rpm.

Sat for a few minutes, started it up again and let it idle for about 5 minutes, then I took it down a dirt road and around my buddies property some. Was running strong for about 10 minutes, then it suddenly just cut out and I couldn't get it started. Pushed it back the the car, loaded up, drove home and I still can't get it to fire.

I'm not sure where to look first.

-high load missing
-hard start after cut out
-apparently no spark, I smell fuel.

I'll have to dig into it this weekend.
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Old 04-16-2009, 07:35 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
I built a hitch carrier for it so I was able to finally take it somewhere to test drive it.

It drove just fine for about 5 minutes, then it started to sputter at full throttle/load (5k rpm ish), kinda skip and fire wrong....then it cut out at the top of a hill. Had a hell of a time getting it to start again, but it did eventually, didn't want to stay running, ran rough, had to blip the throttle and keep it about 3k rpm.

Sat for a few minutes, started it up again and let it idle for about 5 minutes, then I took it down a dirt road and around my buddies property some. Was running strong for about 10 minutes, then it suddenly just cut out and I couldn't get it started. Pushed it back the the car, loaded up, drove home and I still can't get it to fire.

I'm not sure where to look first.

-high load missing
-hard start after cut out
-apparently no spark, I smell fuel.

I'll have to dig into it this weekend.

What kinda spark plug are you using? I tried an iridium in my 74 and it fouls it after about 10 minutes
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:46 AM   #78
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Got around to it finally.

I'm getting power to the coil......I unplugged the only lead going to it and I get my test light to light up, I'm assuming I did it correctly and its telling me power is getting there.

I don't have a spark however. So, that makes me think its the coil.

I don't like the prices I was seeing for replacement coils, so I might stop my TSC to see if a tractor one will work.

Any ideas?

P.S. For the heck of it I'll include this: My plugs look nice, lightly wet. The boot for the plug fits kinda loose. I moved it around to see if it was a bad connection, but nothing. Also, the 90deg elbow that connects the plug and the wire swivels freely, but doesn't come off....
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Old 04-26-2009, 01:07 PM   #79
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Very Cool, Always glad to see another Vintage Yahama back on the trail.

Sent a PM, saw you thought it a dead zone, try it again, more knowledge there than anywhere you can imagine on the specifics of Vintage Yahama's. Just post the question it will be answered directly.

Nice report, pics and all.

Good Luck
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Old 04-26-2009, 05:20 PM   #80
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Mine ended up being the points gap not set correctly. I tried 3 or 5 different coils and different point gaps. Even got to where I was "test kicking" holding the plug. Got the gap set and it worked.



Now I have carb issues, won't run above 3k at full throttle.
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:38 PM   #81
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I'm pretty sure the points are set OK, and the plugs I'm using are el cheapo standards, no fancy stuff here.

As I kick it over, the plug has power coming to the coil, but I don't get a spark.

I'm going to start a new thread asking about coils, cuz I am intranet dumb when it comes to actually finding something using google.
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:47 PM   #82
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As far as performance of the bike and what I expected.....

It has much more pep than I thought it would. Stops pretty good too. Clutch work is rough, I can see myself getting wrist cramps riding for a day (might consider hyd. conversion). Suspension....I'm not sure yet, I was tearing it up over a soggy field, so it felt soft!
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Old 05-20-2009, 06:33 PM   #83
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Looks like its the play in the main shaft actually. Its bouncing all over the place! I can move it about 20-30 thou around, enough to completely screw with the point gap.

I got it to start, but it wasn't nice. I noticed it trying to fire at the wrong times (main shaft play issues I'm sure).

So it looks like a real engine rebuild is in order. Not unexpected really.

I always start thinking of options when it comes to this type of project. My mind is churning over a 4 stroke 125-200 cc ish conversion with the hyd. clutch. Maybe something with a more maintenance free ignition / cylinder setup. Then another idea was to just rebuild this engine and updated the clutch and ignition.

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Old 08-21-2010, 05:28 PM   #84
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It's been too long. I have another kid now, so time hasn't been available for this. Between building a plow truck for work and trying to get my Jeep rolling and then the general household stuff, this bike hasn't seen much work.

I have decided to just rebuild the motor, complete tear down, not changing that. I'll also strip the bike down to the frame and powdercoat everything I can. I'll put some new tires on it and some turn signals, upgrade a few electrical concerns and make it road worthy. I pulled it into the garage a week ago and sprayed oil on most bolts (I put anti-sieze on nearly everything when I first pieced it together).

My first question is this: The side bearings (Main crank), if I can source some sealed bearings, should I do it? or keep the same kind in it? I know the crank case seals are important, so I figured what if I had sealed bearings as well, additional "sealage"....?

Second question: Clutch: The cable actuated clutch, actually the rotating plastic thing that actually pushes the pin that disengages the clutch, anyone ever replace or upgrade that? I'm wondering if I reduce the pitch of the plunger assembly if I could get a lighter lever feel while still having enough travel to engage/disengage the clutch.


Lucas
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:04 PM   #85
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I've got a trip planned October 9th weekend to the Upper Penn. of Michigan. I'm going to put this up on stands and see if I can't fix the engine at least. I might look into the oil pump as well, this mixing gas thing gets old. Still planning on a stripdown and rebuild. A buddy just bought an '07 Yamaha 400 dual sport thing....bastard!

Lucas
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:33 AM   #86
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Actually, the 175 was the best enduro Yamaha made, 3lbs heavier than a 125, 3hp less than a 250 but 50lbs lighter than a 250.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:04 PM   #87
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As you can clearly see in this picture.....the center gear set is chipped about 30% around it. Both gears are chewed up, however, I split my parts motor apart and all the gears are beautiful! So, I need to swap over the gears and that should be fine, it doesn't look like anything else was screwed up.



Engine, crank bearings are horrible. The parts engine looked and felt a bit worn, however once I pulled the "good" engines bearings, I was shocked! I need one 52od x 25id x 15w and one 52 x 20 x 15. I looks like the gas/oil mix is supposed to help lube these, so I guess finding sealed bearings isn't an option. Ordered from McMaster-Carr, 16 bucks.
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lgottler screwed with this post 09-23-2010 at 07:14 PM
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:13 PM   #88
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I switched out gears today. Looks like it was 3rd gear and a sliding one, so 3 gears replaced. The slider, can't remember which gear #, but the studs coming out of it that engage the gear next to it were worn and chipped pretty good.







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Old 09-26-2010, 10:22 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
It's been too long. I have another kid now, so time hasn't been available for this. Between building a plow truck for work and trying to get my Jeep rolling and then the general household stuff, this bike hasn't seen much work.

I have decided to just rebuild the motor, complete tear down, not changing that. I'll also strip the bike down to the frame and powdercoat everything I can. I'll put some new tires on it and some turn signals, upgrade a few electrical concerns and make it road worthy. I pulled it into the garage a week ago and sprayed oil on most bolts (I put anti-sieze on nearly everything when I first pieced it together).

My first question is this: The side bearings (Main crank), if I can source some sealed bearings, should I do it? or keep the same kind in it? I know the crank case seals are important, so I figured what if I had sealed bearings as well, additional "sealage"....?

Second question: Clutch: The cable actuated clutch, actually the rotating plastic thing that actually pushes the pin that disengages the clutch, anyone ever replace or upgrade that? I'm wondering if I reduce the pitch of the plunger assembly if I could get a lighter lever feel while still having enough travel to engage/disengage the clutch.


Lucas
Using sealed bearings is a bad idea, I doubt the seals are up to the exposure of heat, pressure and gasoline. Try to get the correct OEM bearings, if not the exact bearing supplier replacements.

Make sure your Autolube pump is working like I previously posted in this thread. It must be pumping oil, and I would make sure I'm using real injector oil, not TCW III spec marine premix.
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Old 09-28-2010, 03:16 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamaGeek
Using sealed bearings is a bad idea, I doubt the seals are up to the exposure of heat, pressure and gasoline. Try to get the correct OEM bearings, if not the exact bearing supplier replacements.

Make sure your Autolube pump is working like I previously posted in this thread. It must be pumping oil, and I would make sure I'm using real injector oil, not TCW III spec marine premix.
Well, the bearing I ended up getting looks like a good quality bearing, it is not sealed, ended up with an exact duplicate. I ordered from McMaster-Carr, and the bearings I got were FAG, and over 3x less than ones I found on bike-bandit.com. I paid about $8 each when they wanted $29 each. Shipping is also next day when ordered before noon. The part numbers also matched.

I'm going to find some clear tubing and then start messing with the pump.
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