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Old 09-13-2008, 07:34 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montana Kwyjibo
Hey Questor,

It was nice bumping into you and chatting for a few minutes at Logan Pass Friday in GNP....great day for riding! I wish I could have joined you for your ride up to Banff. Hope you had a good ride...as you now know, September in NW Montana is the best time of the year and some of the best scenery anywhere.

Enjoy the rest of your trip!
Dude!

It was great to meet another ADV rider - on top the continental divide, on a beautiful day - riding another GS no less.

I'm very gald we met and had time to talk.

I'll post the report in a moment.

Q~
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Old 09-13-2008, 08:03 PM   #62
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Day 9: Friday Sept 12th

I left dblarrow's house early in the morning. Again, thanks for the roof over my head for the night. I'm glad I was indoors as it got quite cold out, and the amount of dew was like it had rained.

It was a beautiful morning with the fog drifting through the valley.


On my way into Kila, MT to get breakfast, I stopped at a weigh station that was open. I rode onto the scale, and was told that me and the bike, loaded with camping gear, and a full tank of gas weigh 880 lbs.

On my way to Glacier NP, I came across this Tourist Trap.


A detail of the sign - I think it says it all.



A few miles down the road was the entrance to Glacier NP.



It was still very early and Lake McDonald still had mist on it.



Another perspective of the lake.



The lower part of Going to the Sun Highway.



Looking up the valley.



The Going to the Sun Highway is under construction, It will be close to eastboud traffic starting on the 15th, so I just made it.



The views are amazing - just like everyone says.







In an effort to reduce traffic, the National Park service gives tours in these historic looking Natural Gas powered vehicles. Quite cool.



Here's where I met another ADV rider.





St. Mary's Lake.



I continued north and crossed the Canadian boarder. They let me in, but would not let me keep my 2oz of pepper spray. Large 20oz bottles of Bear Spray that shoot clouds 50 feet are fine, but small ones are not.
They said they would hold it for me and I could get it back on my return.

So I entered Alberta Canada, 'eh?



A huge landscape opened up before me as I headed up towards Kootenay Provincial Park.



On to British Columbia. Yeah, I get around.




I passed the worlds largest truck.


It was absolutely massive. Look at the park bench for comparison.



By 5:30 I was in Radium, and got a campsite.
Then a quick dinner, where I met some great folks who were also bikers, and they asked me to sit with them and have dinner. It was nice to have the company.
After dinner, I went to the Radium Hot Springs and soaked 3000 miles out of my aching knees and back. I'd been dreaming of this moment for over a week.





I soaked for two hours in a huge swimming pool full of 104 degree water.
I think 5 layers of skin came off my back.

As I went back to the campsite, the sky was awesome, full of colors and strange coulds. I was mushy and feeling good.





As I lay in my tent, I had a huge smile on my face. The trip was going great, and I was very happy.

Stats for the day: 367 miles. Moving average 47.7 (I went very slowly through Glacier - I wanted to take it all in.) Moving time, 8:06 Stopped 2:53. Total 11:00. I got 50 mpg as well. I think the bike likes 65 mph, and not having ethanol in the gas.

More to come.
Q~

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Old 09-13-2008, 08:39 PM   #63
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Day 10: Sat Sept 13

I slept very well even though it got quite cold at night.
In the valley where I was camped, I don't think it got below 40. (I have a 40 degree bag, so I would have known if it had gotten too cold. )

I woke up at dawn, and packed up camp.
It is interesting to note that on my way to the hot springs the night before, I passed through the entrance to Kootenay Provincial Park, but since it was so late, 7:30pm, the booth where one would pay the entrance fee was closed, so I got in for free. Also the next morning, at about 7:00am, the booth was till closed, so again, I did not have to pay.

As I rode up to Lake Louise, the valley had lots of fog in it.



But as I dropped into the valley...



It got VERY cold!



I had the electric vest on high, all the insulation I could wear, and the heated grips on high. I still could not feel my fingers.

So as I was riding along, I get passed by this beat up old pickup, towing a trailer made out of a pickup truck bed. The passenger leaned out the window and flagged me down. It was the nice folks I had dinner with the night before! They stopped to make sure I was OK, and they took this picture of me. This is what I look like after 2 hours of riding at 55mph in 26 degree temperatures.



I don't think you can see it, but there is ice on the mirrors, the windscreen, and on my jacket where the fog had frozen solid.

At the same time I was keeping a sharp eye out for animals.
I saw moose, deer, and elk on the roadside.
See the frozen fog on the plants on the side of the road?



By 9:00am I had made it to Lake Louise. I got a big breakfast, and lots of hot coffee. It took me about 25 minutes to stop shivering.

Then on to see Lake Lousie itself. It was truely breath taking.


I had made it. 25 years ago my parents took me here, and now I was back. I felt a little sentimental.

After taking in the sight for about two hours, it was time to head south.
I kept telling myself, this was a good thing, as it could only get warmer the further south I ride. It was still only 35 degrees. Arizona was sounding good.

Headed south on Canada 1, I passed Banff.
Then I took Rt 40 to Pincher Creek. That was a very scenic road. Along the was I saw lots of Bighorn sheep alongside the road. (Sorry no pics.)
















Then Rt 22 South.




I saw this interesting sign.


Waterton Lakes Provincial Park area ahead...





I stopped at the Canada Boarder crossing and picked up my pepper spray, and made it back into the US without any problems.

Then instead of taking the Highway to the Sun back into Glacier NP, I took 89 to Kiowa. Then rt 49 to East Glacier. What a road!

Absolutely the best so far. I mean Iron Mountain Rd in WY was nice, but this was out of control. I ripped it, and had the best time ever!!! If you get the chance, ride this road. It's sick.
Nice views as well. Here's where a forest fire cleaned house in 98.



By 6:30 I was at the KOA in West Glacier, where I made dinner, did my laundry, and caught up on my Ride Report.




Checkout is 11:00am, and I only have 300 miles to ride tomorrow.
Perhaps I'll sleep in.

Stat's for the day: 487 miles, Moving average 56. Moving time 8:47. Stopped 2:40. Total 11:27. It felt like a long day. Perhaps I'll take a late night shower, and use up all the hot water.

Tomorrow, West Glacier to Misoula MT.

Thanks for checking in...
Q~

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Old 09-14-2008, 11:40 AM   #64
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Nice RR and pictures. Keep it coming.
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Old 09-14-2008, 03:32 PM   #65
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looks great so far!

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Old 09-14-2008, 07:17 PM   #66
Montana Kwyjibo
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Kiowa cut-off road

Hey Questor,

Glad to hear that you found the Kiowa cut-off road to East Glacier. I was going to leave you a note recommending you go that way up on Logan Pass, but I didn't have any paper (or pen for that matter). Isn't that an awesome stretch of road? If it wasn't for having to watch out for 'free range cattle' and slow moving motorhomes, it would be even better.

I was also going to tell you to have lunch at the Park Cafe in St. Mary. Their motto is 'Pie for Strength' and as you might guess they have amazing food and dessert..guess you'll have to leave that for next time.

Glad you're enjoying your trip through Big Sky country, drop a note if you're ever back out this way.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:07 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Montana Kwyjibo
Hey Questor,

Glad to hear that you found the Kiowa cut-off road to East Glacier. I was going to leave you a note recommending you go that way up on Logan Pass, but I didn't have any paper (or pen for that matter). Isn't that an awesome stretch of road? If it wasn't for having to watch out for 'free range cattle' and slow moving motorhomes, it would be even better.

I was also going to tell you to have lunch at the Park Cafe in St. Mary. Their motto is 'Pie for Strength' and as you might guess they have amazing food and dessert..guess you'll have to leave that for next time.

Glad you're enjoying your trip through Big Sky country, drop a note if you're ever back out this way.
You are so right. That road was amazing. I was passing those Park Vehicles on the inside of corners and just having an amazing time. There were so many times when I said "Oh my Dog" out loud in my helmet in sheer joy. Third gear was perfect for accelerating and decelerating, and when the road would turn to dirt and loose gravel, well that was an extra surprise.

Q~
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:12 AM   #68
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Quick update...

Hello All.

I'm currently staying with friends in Missoula MT.

I've been noticing a strange smell comming from the bike when I was sitting in traffic. It smelled like bad barbeque. Turns out there were lots of bugs cooking on the cyclinder heads.

So when I got to my friends house yesterday, I gave the GSA a nice long bubble bath. No more bugs!

Today, I'll pick up some oil filters and oil at Big Sky BMW, and goto Helena to do the oil change at "Speedster's" garage.

I took a few pics yesterday, but I can't post them from here.
I'll do a full update when I get the chance.

Q~
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Old 09-15-2008, 01:58 PM   #69
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Day 11: Sunday Sept 14th

Hi again.

This was a very short day for me.
I simply rode from West Glacier MT to Missoula to stay the night with some friends. The ride was short, about three hours.

I rode along the western side of Flathead lake.


It was another spectacular day in terms of weather. 60 degrees and perfect sunshine. (I'll have to thank for folk at the National Weather service for all the great weather I've been having on this tour so far. )



I arrived in Missoula and gave the bike a very much needed wash.
It just loves intimate bubble baths...

The evening was one of hanging with good freinds, drinking pitchers of Kokanee Beer, and eating pizza.


Stats for the day: 159 miles, Moving average 47.8. Moving time 3:20. Stopped 1:07.
Nice!
Q~
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Old 09-15-2008, 02:10 PM   #70
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Day 12: Monday Sept 15th

I left my friends house at 8:45 and was at Big Sky BMW by 9:01 to get 3 oil filters, crush washers, and 4 qts of Oil for my trusty steed.
Again I was lucky, most BMW dealerships are closed on Mondays, and this was the last Monday that Big Sky was going to be open.
They were even nice enough to put the oil in a box so I could strap it to the bike. I don't have any more room in the cases... A big thumbs up for Big Sky BMW in Missoula.



After a 3 hour ride along I-90 and some Rt 12, I made it to Helena MT, to hook up with ADV rider "Speedster".

Some nice views along the way.


"Speedster" was kind enough to allow me to do an oil change in his garage.
It was a very nice garage, better than mine in CT.
He had all the tools, including a nice torque wrench, and a container for me to drain the used oil into. (I almost overfilled it when I drained the GS, but fortunately, the stream of used oil stopped before a mess was made.)



So life is very good right now. I've got clean laundry, and a nice clean bike with fresh oil in it. Were good for another 4000 miles.

So again, I would like to thank "Speedster" for letting me use his garage, the nice lunch, and his trust in letting me into his home.

Between Helena and Bozeman I saw this forest fire. Lots of smoke.




Lots of roads that lead somewhere, but where?


I made it to Livingston MT, to hang out with my friend Luke.
Around 7:00pm we went to take the dogs for a walk. The two cats came too! Apparently they do this every night. We walked about two blocks and entered the railroad yard. It was about 7:00pm and the full moon was low and huge in the sky. Luke let the dogs off their leashes and they ran around gleefully. The cats played in the tall grasses and played with the dogs. Everything was mellow and peacefull. Then we saw the herd of deer. There was one buck, and about six doe. Then one of the dogs spots the deer and takes off running at mach speed. Luke takes off after the dogs. I take off after Luke, and the cats came running after me. It must have been quite the scene, all of us running across the railroad chasing deer under the full moon.

I would also like to take a moment to just say how proud I am to be an ADV member. You are all GREAT!
Peace to all of you.
Q~

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Old 09-16-2008, 07:20 AM   #71
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I'm so jealous.

Keep the report coming!

--mark
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Old 09-16-2008, 11:55 AM   #72
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Bluhduh You are too funny!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Questor
Schedule looks like this:

Day 10 - Sat Sept 13: Radium Hot springs to Lake Louise and Glacier NP.
Day 11 - Sun Sept 14: Glacier NP to Missoula MT.
Day 12 - Mon Sept 15: Missoula to Livingston MT and an Oil change for the bike.
Day 13 - Tues Sept 16: Livingston MT. Beartooth pass, and Yellowstone.
Day 14 - Wed Sept 17: Yellowstone and Grand Tetons
Day 15 - Thurs Sept 18: Grand Tetons to Craters of the Moon NP.
Day 16 - Fri Sept 19: Craters of the Moon, Logan Canyon Scenic Byway, to Bear Lake.
Day 17 - Sat Sept 20: Bear Lake, Flaming Gorge, and Dinosaur NP.
Day 18 - Sun Sept 21: Dinosaur NP to Edward's CO. to visit my Aunt.
Day 19 - Mon Sept 22: Rest and maintenance
Day 20 - Tues Sept 23: BMW of Denver - I've got a faulty fuel sensor...
I know it's several days old at this point, but jeez this made me laugh! I remember when we were looking at maps pre-trip you said "yeah, I have the first 9 days planned out, then I'll wing it after that". Ha! You're right--if we ever travel together it would probably be best for us to leave the same day and agree to meet up the last day of the trip.

Glad to hear your travels are exceeding your expectations.

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Old 09-16-2008, 03:03 PM   #73
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This seems to be a great adventure. Maybe one day I'll be fortunate enough to get some time off to do something like this.
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Old 09-17-2008, 05:55 PM   #74
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Day 13: Tuesday September 16th

Well it's been a few days since I have had access to the internet, and I've got a lot to tell you about...

So Tuesday - I awoke once again before dawn, got the bike all packed up and left my friend Lukes place in Livingston MT.
The train station was looking good in the morning light.


I rode about an hour towards Yellowstone NP. The sun was slow in comming up.





I stopped just before I entered the park and had agreat breakfast. It was very good and I had a great place to watch the day start.



While I was waiting for the food to be served, I met a kindly old gentleman who said that I looked like an alien. "Yeah, I get that alot." was my reply.
He told me of a story of when he was younger working at an airfield, he had a BMW and got it up to 130MPH on the runway one evening after too much drinking... (I like stories like that - It makes me feel sane and normal... )

So after breakfast I entered Yellowstone via the Roosevelt Arch.




I passed the 45th parallel...



and was inside Yellowstone. I headed to Beartooth Pass (thanks for the suggestion Rider-Grrl. )





I stopped to checkout Beartooth Campground...





Obvoiusly this was a place frequented by Grizzly brears.

So I kept heading up towards the pass.

Have I mentioned how lucky I have been in terms of weather?







We climbed higher...








And reached the top.





The views went on forever.



And the road was sick!


Apparently I had ridden to the top of the World.



So I had no choice but to turn around and head back into Yellowstone.
I wanted to see all the Geothermally active sites.



There were some great waterfalls to see along the way.


And finnaly we got to the active caldera area.














It was getting to be dinner time so I headed to Old Faithful to get a bite to eat and watch the famous gyser do it's thing... Being this late in the season I got prime parking.


The Inn was nice, but Rooms cost $218 a night.



I found the cafeteria, and got a hearty dinner.



and went outside to enjoy the moment.



Dinner.



The right beer at the right place.



I relaxed and put my feet up, and savored the moment. This trip has been too good.



After dinner I had about a half hour before Old Faithful erupted, so I chedked out the Old Faithful Lodge. This is the upscale place to stay.
Needless to say I looked was out of place for such a high class establishment. Oh well "F" them, I'd earned my right to be here. I'm a tough biker guy, remember?

But the architecture was amazing!
This is all rough hewn wood logs. Very ornate. Almost like an Escher lithograph.





So after checking out the Lodge, I went back outside to watch the Gyser.



And it did go off! It was quite a sight.



I was tired, but happy!


Then at about 9:00 pm I went to Madison campground and settled in for the night.
It got quite cold, well below freezing, and I spent the night curled up in a fetal position, shivering in my 40 degree sleeping bag. The real kick in the teeth was the fact that I was awoken several times in the night by the sound of the huge trailer in the site next to me - their heater kept going on to keep those softies inside the trailer warm.
I need some kind of heater for my tent...

More to come...
Stats for the day:
301 miles. Moving average 36.5. Moving time, 7:49. Stopped 5:01. Total. 12:51

It was quite cold. See my next post..
Q~

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Old 09-17-2008, 06:43 PM   #75
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Day 14: Wed Sept 17th

So I awoke at dawn, and I knew it was cold. Both my hips were sore, and I was shivering. I quickly packed up my stuff, loaded the bike, and tried to start it. It took four tries, and a bit a goosing the throttle to get it started. That's quite uncommon. Almost always, the bike starts on the first try. But it did start, and I turned on all the electrics - Vest and grips on high.

So the sun was coming up, and everything was looking fresh and lovely.
I love watching the sun rise.



But the temperature was cold.


However, this made the geothermals even more dramatic as the superheated steam contacted the cold air.















Early bird gets the good pictures for his ADV friends.
















Obligatory Bison picture.



I like this shot, it looks like nuclear Mushroom clouds.

BMW R1200 GS Adventure - Nuclear Proof!



Another nice picture. I had to pull 3 U-turns to get this one. Thank goodness there were no Park Police up this early.




Another Bison.


Waterfalls were everywhere.



Crossing the continental Divide agiain.



Yellowstone Lake.


Then I made my way out of the Park, and headed to the Tetons.






\






BMW should pay me for this shot.



Funny pic.


Stopped in Jackson WY.


Into Idaho, headed to Craters of the Moon NP.








Complex irrigation systems...



Highway 20 headed west.


Gut Bugs?





Idaho National Laboratories in the distance.




Arco ID, where I found a KOA with wifi so I could keep you up to date.
I was not expecting this.. But it's cool.









Camp for the night.


Stats for the day: 295 miles. Moving Avg. 43.3. Moving time 6:53. Stopped 2:54. Total 9:48.

I gotta go get dinner....
Q~

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