Just Installed ROX on a 08 1200 GS

[paulsgs]

Put them on yesterday. After reading ALL the threads about it, I'm not completely satisfied. I mean, they look great and feel terrific with the extra height, the cables dont feel/look right.

First, the right side- I dropped the leg and dragged both cables on the other side. That seemed to put so much pressure on lines when the bars were turned right I thought something would snap. I loosened the bold on the "L", and next thing I'm loosing brake fluid. Anyway, I put the cables back where they started.
I left The throttle cable as is after the leaking brake fluid.

The left side-I started to drop that leg, then stopped in that it did not seem too bad (but snug none the less when turned).

What next? I dont know, I guess some suggestions ....or do I just get used to the snuggness?

[pavement pounder]

the clutch hose can be loosened by removing one zip tie on the frame by the forks. I think it was the first one you come across as you work your way down the hose. Then, (and this is where you will get the most satisfaction) on the left side of the bike, find the hose leading to the back of the transmission, on the frame you will see a triangular frame section with a grey zip tie on it. Move (don't cut) this zip tie up until the hose can be perfectly horizontal. (you'll see what i mean when you get there). This will free up the hose enough for you to sleep at night. It is now "perfect" as for the throttle side, i moved the mirror bracket in about 1/4" as well as the clutch side. Play with the angle of the pivot and the angle of the bars and you will find satisfaction.

cb

[pavement pounder]

here's one.

[paulsgs]

Originally Posted by pavement pounder

the clutch hose can be loosened by removing one zip tie on the frame by the forks. I think it was the first one you come across as you work your way down the hose. Then, (and this is where you will get the most satisfaction) on the left side of the bike, find the hose leading to the back of the transmission, on the frame you will see a triangular frame section with a grey zip tie on it. Move (don't cut) this zip tie up until the hose can be perfectly horizontal. (you'll see what i mean when you get there). This will free up the hose enough for you to sleep at night. It is now "perfect" as for the throttle side, i moved the mirror bracket in about 1/4" as well as the clutch side. Play with the angle of the pivot and the angle of the bars and you will find satisfaction.

cb

Wow, Thank you CB........! Ok, removed the first tie I found going down the frame, and, moved the one up at the triangle....that made a great difference. I Am now going to move the mirrors each in 1/4 and will report back. Have you rerouted the throttle cable under the bars? Or am I wasting my time?

[paulsgs]

Ok, I moved each mirror in 1/4 and that helped as well. Thank You. Also, one other thing I did was put a piece of plain white paper (it was suggested somewhere in the forum) between all points of contact as a suggestion to prevent slipping.

[pavement pounder]

There is no need to re-route the throttle cable. Just make sure that you test it to make sure it doesn't get too tight (but it wont) when you turn lock to lock. (full left, full right turn) with engine idle (in neutral of course) turn bars fully, it idle goes up, you need to make some slack. I didn't have a problem.

[paulsgs]

Originally Posted by pavement pounder

There is no need to re-route the throttle cable. Just make sure that you test it to make sure it doesn't get too tight (but it wont) when you turn lock to lock. (full left, full right turn) with engine idle (in neutral of course) turn bars fully, it idle goes up, you need to make some slack. I didn't have a problem.

Thanks ! Mine looks exactly as yours, and I did those tests in neutral and NO problems. So Thank YOU PP and CB.

By the way, I put more miles on them today and wow what a difference, it really changes the ride (positively). Although I dont do a lot of peg standing, I did try and it is great! Thanks.

[pavement pounder]

I found that it completely eliminated shoulder burn (neck burn) from the previous setup. I have done 2 longish trips since the install and find them to be a really nice addition. I didn't have any problems with slipping, in fact, i had a hard time to rotate them where i wanted and then tighten the bolts. I only tightened two of them firsts, the located, then the others. I had a wobble drive extension. It helped.

good luck

cb

[N1 Qualified Man]

Originally Posted by pavement pounder

the clutch hose can be loosened by removing one zip tie on the frame by the forks. I think it was the first one you come across as you work your way down the hose. Then, (and this is where you will get the most satisfaction) on the left side of the bike, find the hose leading to the back of the transmission, on the frame you will see a triangular frame section with a grey zip tie on it. Move (don't cut) this zip tie up until the hose can be perfectly horizontal. (you'll see what i mean when you get there). This will free up the hose enough for you to sleep at night. It is now "perfect" as for the throttle side, i moved the mirror bracket in about 1/4" as well as the clutch side. Play with the angle of the pivot and the angle of the bars and you will find satisfaction.

cb

thank you cb. i just installed rox risers and this worked perfectly (along with moving the clutch & break controls in by about 1/2in.

anyway, thank you!

oG

[tyler73]

This was my problem with ROX. Cable destruction in the circle caused by sharp edges on the machined ROX parts.

Fixed in under 2 minutes using this thread. Routed cable under the bars and zip tied the excess to the brake lines. I had plenty of slack on the clutch/brake/electrical lines.

[German]

I just installed the Wunderlich vario risers and they work wonderful. I did not have the reroute any cables etc. I do like the Roxy and they are lot more affordable than the Wunderlich at $235. I was not too crazy about the shiny look.

[pavement pounder]

Originally Posted by tyler73

This was my problem with ROX. Cable destruction in the circle caused by sharp edges on the machined ROX parts.

Fixed in under 2 minutes using this thread. Routed cable under the bars and zip tied the excess to the brake lines. I had plenty of slack on the clutch/brake/electrical lines.

BMW now puts a piece of plastic there to prevent scraping. The only place it touches on mine is the bar, not the risers. (or at least not hard) Great post BTW.

[Cumminsman76]

Are the handebars on a GS Adventure 1 1/8"?

[kindofblue]

To update this thread, I just installed my rox risers w/vibration dampening on my 2010 GS. I didn't need to reroute the cables after clipping the first clutch zip tie and moving the clutch zip tie in this pic from PP so that the line was horizontal.

PP, Thanks for that idea. And here's a link to a video of an installation on an 08 GSA http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=31550745

Originally Posted by pavement pounder

here's one.

[AZuwere]

Ditto here, I just installed the 2" Rox on my 2011 GSA and only needed to cut one tie wrap. Easy job, 20 minutes or less. Except for the trip to Harbor Freight for the weird Torx head sockets.