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Old 09-25-2008, 07:13 AM   #16
PackMule
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What's the actual draw on the Stebel?
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:22 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackMule
What's the actual draw on the Stebel?
Actual- I'm not sure. I've seen comment that it draws 18 amps. I don't have my documentation, but most folks appear to use a 20amp fuse with it. I have a 15amp fuse on the relay and a 20amp fuse in the AP1, neither of which blew.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:06 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Dieselboy
Crilly, now that is intriguing. I was testing it at idle. 400 v 720 watts is a significant difference. I think I'll test that theory before anything else.

Fortunately the relay I used for the horn has a fuse slot built in to it and I pulled that to disable the circuit. Bonus-- I can reinsert it without dismantling the bike.

Hmmm, quoting myself.....

The more I think about this the less I think it likely because, there is no way the 400 watts is even close to being used at idle with the Zumo and horn being the only operating additions.

That said, I'll still run the RPM's up as soon as I can find a fuse. I left mine on the work bench and can't find anyone around who is carrying the size I need.
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Old 09-25-2008, 10:18 AM   #19
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Again, I'm electrically challenged, so please educate me. Is it possible to run an accessory fuse box from the CANbus, and run the horn from there, or would you get fault codes due to the horn being disconnected?

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Old 09-25-2008, 12:23 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Dieselboy
JamesG, no dice. I'm not getting an error. The OEM horn works even with the Stebel.
But only once right? And then neither works until you reset the system?
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:31 PM   #21
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But only once right? And then neither works until you reset the system?
Only once. Short duration. The system resets itself after a short time.
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:35 PM   #22
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Are you sure the AP-1 relay isn't bad? Are you certain you are using the correct terminals in the correct fashion (no offense, we all make mistakes). A properly functioning relay should not draw enough power to trigger the CANBUS. Replace with new, and test, they're cheap enough, and double-triple check your connection paths, maybe ask a friend to double-check.
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Old 09-25-2008, 12:55 PM   #23
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Detailed Diagram

I was asked via email to provide more details on the wiring:



Note that the relays are laid out differently. This is not a mistake. Their posts are laid out differently and as depicted.

Note that the grounds are split. I wanted clean cabling at the battery.

Not shown: all accessories are wired into a quick disconnect block which is then wired to the AP1. This allows me to unplug one connector and remove the AP1 without chasing down multiple wires.
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Old 09-25-2008, 01:34 PM   #24
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Why is that right relay messed up? I'm not sure I've ever seen a relay with the 85-86 posts not opposite each other.

I'd toss both relays, replace with new (normal configuration) units, at least you'll have eliminated one particular source of the trouble.
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Old 09-25-2008, 01:53 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Boston12GS
Why is that right relay messed up? I'm not sure I've ever seen a relay with the 85-86 posts not opposite each other.

I'd toss both relays, replace with new (normal configuration) units, at least you'll have eliminated one particular source of the trouble.
You know, I'm not sure, but it worked for many miles on another application. I was a bit surprised when I looked at it. But a factor might be that there is a fuse slot built into it and that may have forced the design. Who knows.

My most likely suspect at this point is back pulse from the relay. I've been researching how to build a damper circuit but as yet don't have enough confidence that I understand the designs.
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Old 09-25-2008, 01:57 PM   #26
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Looks like the fault could be in the AP1 relay. The Canbus system is rather sensitive and any overcurrent from that relay back into the system could cause it to cut out. Try placing a diode between the relay and the canbus plug.
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Old 09-25-2008, 02:08 PM   #27
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diodes....

FWIW: Here is a reference on installing a protection diode and a P/N that they recommend for a 12V circuit:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/componen...ay.htm#protect
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:00 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by blackie
Looks like the fault could be in the AP1 relay. The Canbus system is rather sensitive and any overcurrent from that relay back into the system could cause it to cut out. Try placing a diode between the relay and the canbus plug.
This is actually a possibility. I have about 60,000 miles on this one. It's been around the block.
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Old 09-25-2008, 05:21 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden
FWIW: Here is a reference on installing a protection diode and a P/N that they recommend for a 12V circuit:

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/componen...ay.htm#protect
JRWooden, I actually have some diodes hanging around the garage. I've never used them though (another story). I also suck at soldering but I may give it a go again.

The sites I was surfing weren't nearly as clear as the one you gave me. If it is as simple as putting a diode in line, I'll manage that this weekend.
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Old 09-28-2008, 12:10 PM   #30
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Hey, DB, any luck?

-Rob
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