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Old 12-01-2008, 06:15 PM   #241
squonker OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl
Hey Ben, I have checked out the other thread, haven't finished it yet. I have always been obssesed with the artic and subartic regions of NA never been further north than Nipigon ONT, trying to recitify that. so your journey caught my eye, especially when i googled Eureka Nunavut!!! Geeeze...crazy town.
jenna
The Arctic is one of those things that you either get or you don't. I too was obsessed with it, since I was a teenager. In my early 20s I moved to Canada and it still took me 8 years to get up north, but in the seven or eight years I've lived in Yellowknife I've lived seven or eight lifetimes worth of dreams, too. It gets hold of you and becomes part of you. I'm likely moving back down south this spring, but I plan on always spending a couple of months a year up here - a northern winter is good for the soul and I know I'll never get the Arctic out of my system. It'll always be part of me.

Oh, and with the help of my friend GS4ME I may even be able to get that map thing figured out over the next week or two, too.

And onwards...I rode into town the next morning and did a bit of sightseeing. Every Sunday morning at the same time my parents call me and because they're calling from overseas I think it'd be pretty rude to miss the call. I knew that if I started riding I'd be on the road for an hour or two and not wanting to pull over, so I though that I'd be best to wait in Port Hardy, and found a coffee shop in which to do so.

Some more Pt. Hardy pics















This is such a cool boat. If I had the $$ I'd buy an old one of these and convert it to live on it. Isn't it beautiful?






Hey gunnerbuck, does this look familiar to you??!!
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Old 12-01-2008, 08:32 PM   #242
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Yeah, I think that was day I was in Hardy, I would of been down the street a couple blocks on the other side of the road....

I guess we'll hook up next time your on this end of the Island to check out what Adventures lay beyond the P.A. pulp mill...

David...
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:19 PM   #243
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Great RR

And the little tugs pushing the logs around are called log broncs, their prop is surrounded by a cage to protect it from damage. Many of the ones one the bay I grew up on could turn the prop 360* so they could maneuver in any direction.
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Old 12-02-2008, 06:00 AM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck
Yeah, I think that was day I was in Hardy, I would of been down the street a couple blocks on the other side of the road....

I guess we'll hook up next time your on this end of the Island to check out what Adventures lay beyond the P.A. pulp mill...

David...
Ooh, you tease! Yeah, I look forward to it. Very much. Would love to know what's down there, and I have a feeling that's only the tip of the iceberg in terms of what you could show me! Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by 10guy

And the little tugs pushing the logs around are called log broncs, their prop is surrounded by a cage to protect it from damage. Many of the ones one the bay I grew up on could turn the prop 360* so they could maneuver in any direction.
Log broncs. Thank you - I know that somewhere along the journey someone told me the name, but I never remembered it. They look like they'd be not only lots of fun to operate, but also very easy to sink!





The first night on the island I'd stayed with my friends Jeff and Laura, and the whole time I was there Jeff had been expressing an interest in riding to the tip of the island and back, but it had never transpired and I felt bad. While I was in Telegraph Cove on the way north I'd called him and suggested that he meet me there on the weekend when I was on my way back again. We'd camp together and ride back to his place in Nanaimo, and he readily agreed. I had a few hours to kill yet, though, so I called in at Whale Cove.

Whale Cove is an old whaling station and there's really not much there now other than hundreds of boat trailers and an air taxi. There are some nice houses, I noted, but many of them are for sale. And there's a very cool whale jaw bone which I parked the bike beside for a pic...















Having left Whale Cove I thought I'd head into Zebellos for two reasons. Firstly I've never been there before and have a very strong pull to visit anywhere I haven't yet been to, and secondly I was thinking about titles for this RR already, and something along the lines of 'A-Z, The Arctic to Zebellos' was running through my mind.

I pulled off the road at the sign and saw that Zebellos was 45 kms away, so that'd make a good place for lunch. Fair Harbour is 30 kms beyond Zebellos and I wasn't sure that I'd have time to get all the way in there, and Kuyquot is a little way beyond that still. Made a mental note to check these places out another time - I wouldn't be able to get there this weekend because Jeff's isn't a logging road suitable bike. (And I since found out that Kuyquot is accessible only by water).

I begn to head towards Zebellos and the road was just shit. I couldn't get out of first gear and wasn't really enjoyng it, plus at this speed I wouldn't be back in Telegraph Cove in time to meet Jeff. It was the same with parts of the road between Gold River and Woss - so damn bumpy - and I gather that it is at least partly due to the fact that with logging having taken a shit kicking lately, they just aren't bothering to/don't need to/can't afford to maintain the roads. I can understand that.

So I turned around, already starting to think about alternative titles for this thraed, and hit the highway and headed in to Woss again, which was only a few kms away. This time in Woss there was bright sunshine! Jeez, the downpourwhen I'd last been there. I sat down to lunch and grabbed a newspaper and read the horrific story about the kid being beheaded on the Greyhound in Manitoba and wondered what the world was coming to. Finishing up, I walked outside to sit in the sun for a while and a Greyhound pulled into the adjacent gas station. Yikes - was someone trying to tell me something?

Back on the road for the...30? 60? minute ride to Telegraph Creek, and as I pulled in to the main parking area Jeff was walking down from the campground havng already set up his tent.

That evening we splurged and had a salmon bbq that the old fellow who basically, along with his wife, owns Telegraph cove was cooking himself out on the wooden walkway. You grabbed your plate of food and took it inside the pub to eat it. Jeff and I sat at the bar and had what is far and away the best salmon I have ever had in my life. It was astounding - my mouth is watering at the thought of it! The other thing I remember about that evening is that the bartender had a severe case of the bad attitudes. Shame, but otherwise it was a good evening. A good way to (just about) end the trip.
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Old 12-02-2008, 08:22 AM   #245
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On the way back to Jeff's house we took slighly different routes. Firstly, I stopped in at Sayward and was amazed at how 'rotten' the town is. The whole north of the island is beautiful, but in Sayward they dragged old aship hulls out into the water and left them there to act as breakwaters. Now they're all rusted to shit and it looks...interesting...but very sad.















Jeff had kept going while I turned off, and I knew he wanted to ride the new Island Highway back to Nanaimo. I took the old one, though - why ride a straight, inland road when you can ride a curvy and scenic oceanside one?

On the road in to Telegraph Cove I'd followed a sign to 'Hidden Cove' and rode along a pretty neat track to a very pretty area. It turned out to be a very exclusive resort, though, and I thought I was likely to be asked to leave at any moment so I only had time to snap one shot.
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Old 12-02-2008, 09:03 AM   #246
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Stupid computer wouldn't me put this last photo in the last post.

In all the coastal communities I visited on Vancouver Island, there were these stupid signs saying that you were in a Tsunami zone, and that you should head to high ground in the event of a catastrophe. No fucking shit, Sherlock! You don't say - a coastal community susceptible to tidal waves? Who ever would have thought?! And to head up hill - away from the water - is the best way to avoid being swallowed by it? Jeez, I sure am glad someone told me that.

This sort of thing really pisses me off! If you're so stupid that you can't figure out to head away from the water in the event of a tsunami, you deserve to die. We don't need our collective IQ dumbed down by the likes of you when you breed.

Anyway, the signs had been bugging me all along, and I finally snapped a shot of one in Sayward.


And that's that. I rode to Jeff's, then the next day back to Victoria, where I left the bike at a friend's place and flew home. Done.

Let me see here...I had done 13,000 kms by the time I finished. I have to mention that I was using Mefo Explorer tires because they are far and away the best tire I've ever tired. Sure, they cost a wee bit more, but you get what you pay for. My stock rear tire lasted 5,000 kms and the Bridgestone Trailwing I replaced it with lasted 5,500. The Mefo still had about 1,000 kms left in it when I was done. Amazing. And not one flat the entire trip.

I won't bore you with a list of what I packed with me and why 'cos I think that we all want/need/use slightly different things on these trips. Take what you think you need - that's what I did - and I don't remember ever being short of anything and wishing I'd taken it with me. But I'll try and remember here what I did to the bike in preparation. Bear in mind that I spent more time drinking than wrenching when the bike was in Larry's shop, and much of the work was undertaken with a considerable amount of alcohol in my system.....

Two new tires - Mefo Explorers
Valve adjustment
T-mod
New coolant
Headlight guard
Wrist rest (highly recommended)
Waterproof 12v outlet
Barkbusters
Centrestand
3" tool tube (I'd go for 4" if I was doing it again)
Alaska Leathers sheepskin pad

That's all I can remember for now. I know there was more but I never kept a record. I'm pretty sure there was one big job I'm forgetting (doohickey had been done the previous year), but if I can come up with a more comprehensive lst maybe I'll post it later on.

Thanks to everyone who hosted me on the way, and to all the D2D crowd for the good times. Dave, Andy, Andrea, Brian, kari, Mac, Marty, Sander - we have to do it again! And to Kevin who rode with me on the Cassiar - it was a pleasure, bud, and I hope to visit you in L.A. one of these days. I know there are people I should mention that I'm forgetting and that will no doubt land me in hot water pretty soon. Be gentle on me!

And thanks to all of you for following along. I'll try and get that route map posted up over the next little while, but it may be a few days before I'm able to make any real headway on it. In the meantime, keep the rubber side down, and FYYFF!!!

Cheers.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:32 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squonker
Stupid computer wouldn't me put this last photo in the last post.

In all the coastal communities I visited on Vancouver Island, there were these stupid signs saying that you were in a Tsunami zone, and that you should head to high ground in the event of a catastrophe. No fucking shit, Sherlock! You don't say - a coastal community susceptible to tidal waves? Who ever would have thought?! And to head up hill - away from the water - is the best way to avoid being swallowed by it? Jeez, I sure am glad someone told me that.
I agree, it's seems redundant and unnecessary, but in a world of litigation, if someone were killed due to a wave and no signs were posted, millions of dollars would be rewarded to the victims family. It's like that ladder company who did not label the ladder "caution, do not stand the ladder in a pile of cow shit" and of course some farmer did, the ladder tipped over and he broke his ass. He received millions.....Go figure
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Old 12-03-2008, 08:13 AM   #248
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I agree, it's seems redundant and unnecessary, but in a world of litigation, if someone were killed due to a wave and no signs were posted, millions of dollars would be rewarded to the victims family. It's like that ladder company who did not label the ladder "caution, do not stand the ladder in a pile of cow shit" and of course some farmer did, the ladder tipped over and he broke his ass. He received millions.....Go figure
I know, I know...it just makes me mad 'cos it's such a waste of money. I'm all for preventing accidents, but you have to let stupid people do their thing 'cos that's survival of the fittest!
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Old 12-03-2008, 09:30 AM   #249
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Gee.......its too bad the main point of this threat has to end. I guess its like a good show on TV that has had its run cancelled. You know it has to end somewhere but you don't really want it to.

Good read Squonker. I'm looking forward to reading about your further adventures in the future
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:04 PM   #250
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Gee.......its too bad the main point of this threat has to end. I guess its like a good show on TV that has had its run cancelled. You know it has to end somewhere but you don't really want it to.

Good read Squonker. I'm looking forward to reading about your further adventures in the future
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words. I have a feeling I might just head out for a ride again one of these days...there'll be more yet! Less than two months now until the other thread comes back into its own - that'll give you something to read!

Cheers
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Old 12-04-2008, 10:34 PM   #251
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Thumb great ride report

Squonker, good read. I thought of doing a ride report for my BC trip last summer and promptly dismissed the idea as soon as I got on the road. The time and effort you put in are appreciated, so I probably won't do a Dempster/Alaska ride report next summer either. p.s., it snowed today all the way from Enterprise to High Level. Russ
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Old 12-05-2008, 12:31 AM   #252
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Coda!

Great story, much appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:21 AM   #253
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Squonker, good read. I thought of doing a ride report for my BC trip last summer and promptly dismissed the idea as soon as I got on the road. The time and effort you put in are appreciated, so I probably won't do a Dempster/Alaska ride report next summer either. p.s., it snowed today all the way from Enterprise to High Level. Russ
Hey Russ,

Thanks for the thanks! Doing this RR certainly took more time than I realzed it would, but I'd say it's been worth it, too. If nothing else, it allowed me to give something back to the site - after all I did a fair amount of my planning by reading this very forum. Anyway, glad you enjoyed it - and be careful on those roads!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Klay
Coda!

Great story, much appreciated.
Thanks Klay - your comments are appreciated, too.
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Old 12-05-2008, 10:01 PM   #254
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Great report, Squonker! Thanks for taking the time to write it!
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:54 AM   #255
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Great report, Squonker! Thanks for taking the time to write it!
Thanks Ron! Give Hecktoglider a slap on the back from me next time you see him....
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