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Old 10-02-2008, 10:55 AM   #31
squonker OP
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Dawson City

The ride up to Dawson was beautiful and there was very little traffic on the road. I stopped at Stewart Crossing for gas, and as I walking to the store to pay for it I heard a thump and turned around to see my bike resting on its side. Hmm. I knew I wasn’t going to be able to right it when it was loaded so I asked the lady at the till if there was anyone around who could help, but she seemed particularly uninterested in my plight. I unloaded it, righted it and got set to go again. I think what had happened was that there was too much weight on the right hand side, and perhaps while it was resting the forks decompressed and the thing became unbalanced. It became a bit of a problem, actually, and I had to make very sure that when leaving the bike on the side stand the ground was at the very least absolutely level, if not sloping downhill a bit. In the end that evening in Dawson I recruited a bit of driftwood from the banks of the Yukon River to prop up the bike with when I wasn’t sure how steady it was. I called this tool my ‘VFS’, which stands for Very Functional Stick. It was Hecktoglider’s idea to do that, actually - more about that later…

Saw a moose on the side of the road and stopped to take a pic, but by the time I’d got my camera out it had given me the hoof and ran off. Also met a German family in their ’64 Mercedes Unimog camper truck. I had only pulled over for a few pics and hadn’t even taken my helmet off, but this guy kept jabbering away at me. Nice guy and only full of helpful advice as to what I should see in both Dawson and Inuvik, but I wanted to keep rolling…plus there is something a little disconcerting about being spoken to by a German who’s naked apart from a pair of leather shorts. He did have a cute wife, though, and as long as she was standing beside him I was happy to listen, but once he left I wondered how long it’d take him to realize that I was being deliberately rude by not removing either my helmet or my shades. Maybe I should have asked him where the wife’s leather shorts were…

Pulled into Dawson at about 7pm and rode around until I found Hecktoglider, who had been there long enough to have already swapped both his tires, and thought he’d be ready to go the next day. We camped together…





…and while he was doing work on his bike I thought I’d better check mine over. The front tire was down to only 10psi! Otherwise things were good and we began to seriously plan on tackling the Dempster the following day.

But as we finished working on the bikes and prepared to walk into town, the sky grew very very dark. To paraphrase Douglas Adams, it looked as though we were about to experience the mother of all thunderstorms plus the father of all thunderstorms, with lots of little baby thunderstorms on the way! And sure enough while we were on the ferry across the river the heavens opened and we had to ask someone if we could sit in their truck with them!

We went into town that night and checked out the Downtown Hotel, and Ithink Heckto went to see the Can Can girls at Diamond Tooth Gerties for a while too. We end up meeting for some Chinese grub, then crossing the river again to go back to the campsite for some sleep.


Some Dawson pics





Thunder storm looming...











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Old 10-02-2008, 01:45 PM   #32
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link

heres a link to my RR at about that time..... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=362256&page=2
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Old 10-03-2008, 07:09 AM   #33
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The next day at 1pm we set out on a Dempster run in the pouring rain, but by the time we reached the Dempster turnoff, about 30 km from Dawson, the rain had stopped.

We gassed up. I can't remember the price, but this was just about the most expensive gas I bought on the entire trip. It's needed, though (hence the high price, no doubt) because the next gas stop, at Eagle Plains, is 380 km away.


And found this old Dawson City jail


I have some work to do right now, so I'll put up some pics and write more later.













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Old 10-03-2008, 10:10 AM   #34
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Thx to share... really appreciated
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Old 10-03-2008, 11:26 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Air0ne
Thx to share... really appreciated
My pleasure, AirOne - thanks for reading!

A few more pics, quickly...

A trapper's cabin, still used in winter




And back to the 'scenic' shots. If, as I'd quite understand, you're thinking to yourself that these pics aren't that impressive yet, we're still only maybe 40 km up the Dempster. It hasn't really began yet...





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Old 10-03-2008, 11:36 AM   #36
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A ride like this would take me weeks, because I'd keep seeing places I wanted to hike or camp....
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Old 10-03-2008, 04:32 PM   #37
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Ben, heck of a report!!! I shudder everytime I think about doing the Liard. And to think I know hecto also. It was great to meet you and all the others up here during that time. Thanks for the link. I couldn't open this with my phone while I was on the road. Look forward to the next installments.
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:38 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squonker
Also met a German family in their ’64 Mercedes Unimog camper truck. I had only pulled over for a few pics and hadn’t even taken my helmet off, but this guy kept jabbering away at me. Nice guy and only full of helpful advice as to what I should see in both Dawson and Inuvik, but I wanted to keep rolling…plus there is something a little disconcerting about being spoken to by a German who’s naked apart from a pair of leather shorts. He did have a cute wife, though, and as long as she was standing beside him I was happy to listen,
Hey Ben!

Good reading so far, looking forward to your Dempster pics since we didn't make it up there We met you at Bell II, towards the end of this trip I think. I'm pretty sure we also me the same German pair, just S. of Stewart Crossing - if a Unimog is this huge cube-van sort of thing, and they were about 3 years into some round-the-world excursion? I missed out on most of our conversation with them, 'cause I was the only non-German speaking member of my group so it was all in german, but that gave me an excuse to surespitiously oogle the wife for lack of anything better to do.

Looking forward to the rest of your RR!
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Old 10-03-2008, 05:52 PM   #39
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Very nice photos. I really like the one below. Keep it coming!


Quote:
Originally Posted by squonker
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Old 10-03-2008, 06:13 PM   #40
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I was just a couple of days ahead of Ben and this was his pond at sunrise at the camp ground in Ft Liard.
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:35 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotfish
A ride like this would take me weeks, because I'd keep seeing places I wanted to hike or camp....

Dude, every few kilometres there was somewhere I wanted to investigate further. I could have stayed up there for months. The hiking in the Tombsone Mnts (I'll write about them next week) alone could keep you busy for several weeks...
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:40 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomac
Ben, heck of a report!!! I shudder everytime I think about doing the Liard. And to think I know hecto also. It was great to meet you and all the others up here during that time. Thanks for the link. I couldn't open this with my phone while I was on the road. Look forward to the next installments.
Hey Mac! Yeah, we sure had a good time, eh? Great to meet you too, and glad that we're still in touch (sent you an email earlier today, btw).

Quote:
Originally Posted by motomac
I was just a couple of days ahead of Ben and this was his pond at sunrise at the camp ground in Ft Liard.
I was going to mention that you'd done the Liard Hwy just ahead of me when I introduced you when I get to the D2D posts. Good heavens man, be patient will ya? Who's RR is this, anyway?!!

Mac, I don't know how you did it, bud. The truck driver I spoke to explained how they were just turning the mud over, letting it dry out for a few days and then turning it over again. There'd been pretty decent weather for the week or so before I did that road, but when you went through it would have had two days less to dry out. You got some balls, man! (Either that or you're even dumber than me, and that's unlikely!)
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:46 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by brunstei
Hey Ben!

Good reading so far, looking forward to your Dempster pics since we didn't make it up there We met you at Bell II, towards the end of this trip I think. I'm pretty sure we also me the same German pair, just S. of Stewart Crossing - if a Unimog is this huge cube-van sort of thing, and they were about 3 years into some round-the-world excursion? I missed out on most of our conversation with them, 'cause I was the only non-German speaking member of my group so it was all in german, but that gave me an excuse to surespitiously oogle the wife for lack of anything better to do.

Looking forward to the rest of your RR!

Hey brunstei! I think I know who you are - one of a group of about 5 riders from the lower mainland (or southern BC, anyway) right? You guys got to Bell 11 late and rented a cabin 'cos the bugs were so bad at the tent spots? I think I took down your username, if not your email address, but I haven't opened my notebook since I finished the trip, which would explain my lack of contact...

How was your trip? Man, that Cassiar's a great highway huh? LOTS of Dempster pics to come over the next few days, believe me.

Thanks for posting!
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:47 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by dave6253
Very nice photos. I really like the one below. Keep it coming!
Glad you like it, Dave, but there are plenty of better ones from the Dempster still to come!

Stay tuned....
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:07 PM   #45
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This thread just keeps getting better and better. That Cooper Bessemer is somethin else!
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