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Old 08-17-2013, 02:22 PM   #15316
Frank.Wagner
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Joined: Aug 2013
Oddometer: 12
My new Transalp 700 (very reliable) with some modifications
bought end of 2012 - driven tours in 2013


1) France-Spain-Portugal-Morocco
2) Germany-Baltics-Finland-Åland-Sweden-Norway-Denmark

3) Italy-Sardinia planned for october 2013








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Old 08-18-2013, 02:53 AM   #15317
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
Oddometer: 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank.Wagner View Post
My new Transalp 700 (very reliable) with some modifications
bought end of 2012 - driven tours in 2013


1) France-Spain-Portugal-Morocco
2) Germany-Baltics-Finland-Åland-Sweden-Norway-Denmark

3) Italy-Sardinia planned for october 2013








Nice, did you mod the suspension for your trip? It was very sad that i had to unmount my rear suspension to set it for the weight of camping and other stuff, I have a XLV 650 and like i know the 700 have also no possibility to set up the spring when the damper is mountetd.
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:12 PM   #15318
Ironhorsenc
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Location: Smoky Mountains National Forest
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Thanks for the great info

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Riding Monday and the speedo needle starts vibrating....then about 10 miles later starts jumping....then about 5 miles later lays down and dies.....CRAP. I know what this is. The dreaded Transalp speedo drive gear failure. Drive ring ordered that afternoon from the friendly local dealer. The problem is, I replaced the drive gear about 5000 miles ago. Why the quick failure??

Today, for a nice rainy day project, I took the speedo drive off the wheel and pulled it off the drive cable. I tried to clean out all the old grease and all the chewed up nylon gear teeth. The more I cleaned the more came out. I finally resorted to aerosol brake cleaner and compressed air and even more crap came out. After about 30 minutes of this I realized that by the time I got everything inside clean, there would be absolutely NO lube left in there and even then I wouldn't be certain all the rubbish was gone.

The best way to clean this thing is to remove the worm gear. But how to do it? I tried pulling on the little drive tab with a pair of needle-nose pliers but no go. I figured that during assembly, the gear was just pressed in and the only way it was gonna come out was to be "presuaded" from the front.

I drilled a small 5/32 hole into the housing where the front of the worm gear rotates. Do this carefully. You only want to penetrate the aluminium housing.

Then found a small drift and began to lightly tap on the end. With a few heavier taps (I'm NOT talking lumberjack swings with the ball-peen here) the gear began to move. I had to support the end on a socket to allow the drive end to come out of the housing.

These are the parts you will find inside:

Disassemble this carefully. The spacers are very thin and the grease will make them adhere to the housing and the worm gear shaft. If you get too happy with parts cleaner and compressed air you'll spend 15 minutes chasing the spacers around your shop floor....guess how I know this.

Now you can clean ALL the old lube and broken teeth out of the housing.

Relube with white lithium grease (other web sites state that other greases "attack" the nylon. While this sounds a bit suspect to me, after this I wasn't gonna dispute it). Install the new drive gear. Here it is with part number.

To reassemble, place the worm gear back inside the case and slide the shiny metal bushing down on top the shaft. The part with the protruding boss goes toward the gear. Tap the bushing down. I used a 10mm deep socket (notice how I use my sockets for everything except removing bolts). The bushing will seat and you'll have about 2mm back and forth play in the worm gear. This is what I started with. I thought I could reduce it some but some pretty serious taps would not move the bushing any closer and I called it good.

The rubber seal can be pushed down on top the bushing by hand using the socket.

Clean and lube the speedo drive cable, Dab a bit of Silicon sealer onto the front of the drive housing to seal up the hole you drilled, reinstall the front wheel and ride off with a functioning speedo....YAY

I considered screwing a grease fitting into the front for future lubing but there didn't seem to be enough metal there to support one. You could always peel off the silicone and pump in some grease through the hole.

Ray Stedronsky
Davis, CA
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Old 08-18-2013, 03:15 PM   #15319
Ironhorsenc
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Location: Smoky Mountains National Forest
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Dave

Thanks for the great info on the TA speedo problem.. Does the plastic gear just fall out of the assembly? I have the same issue. Did you really need to take the metal worm gear out as the nylon plastic gear is the sacrificial part?
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:39 PM   #15320
jwb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TransAfrika View Post
did you check the killswitch?

Funny you should mention that because when I got the TA I spent 20 minutes like a moron trying to figure out why my bike wouldn't start, with the switch off. I guess I expected the starter to be interlocked with the kill switch.
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Old 08-18-2013, 10:32 PM   #15321
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb View Post
Funny you should mention that because when I got the TA I spent 20 minutes like a moron trying to figure out why my bike wouldn't start, with the switch off. I guess I expected the starter to be interlocked with the kill switch.
Yes. thats an old problem, but there is an other issue. I had it on my Husaberg, you kucked start it and it dont starts, after checking the sparkplug, carb and cable i recognice the the killswitch was broken by a little
crash ( that sort of hill climbing / motor cross crash ) i had.
The funny thing that day the maschine ran fine after that crash, but the washing water does the rest i think.
means, when it is on that dont means it will let the motor run
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Old 08-19-2013, 05:31 AM   #15322
Leo.G
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Location: Marcos Juárez, Córdoba, Argentina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhorsenc View Post
More or less all On-Off and Trail Hondas have that same system for taking the spins of the front wheel represented in the speedo.. You shouldn't have an problems finding that little gear.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:45 AM   #15323
Belgian Waffles
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Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 869
Repercussions of kicking over the starter motor when the bike is running?

My mp3 player died on the freeway last night and I was just thinking... Sometimes in the winter my ATV handlebar muffs hit the starter button when riding, kicking over the motor. Since I noticed it happened a couple times, I just placed a plastic cover to stop it from happening.

How bad is it to hit that button a couple times? No sustained pushes, just a quick tap. Does it just eventually burn out the starter if it stays on? Anything more?
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Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
Past: 1999 KLR 650, 1990 Tengai 650

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Old 08-19-2013, 11:21 AM   #15324
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
Oddometer: 107
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
My mp3 player died on the freeway last night and I was just thinking... Sometimes in the winter my ATV handlebar muffs hit the starter button when riding, kicking over the motor. Since I noticed it happened a couple times, I just placed a plastic cover to stop it from happening.

How bad is it to hit that button a couple times? No sustained pushes, just a quick tap. Does it just eventually burn out the starter if it stays on? Anything more?
It is so , when the motor is running, and you push the starter button, the starter try to get his spinng cogwheel to the opposite one. When this is still running, you here a bad noise, and that could damage your starter , or the freerun or the oposit cogwheel. So a protection is an good idea, thats why i made one ( i posted it before ). I have the problem with my tank bag, the horn button is in range too so protected too.
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:54 AM   #15325
Frank.Wagner
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@TransAfrika - mod the suspension - no, the 2012er Transalp standard works perfectly - for me
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:36 PM   #15326
Tachedoutoffroad
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Location: Alabama
Oddometer: 604
Took the Transalp on her maiden voyage around Ft Rucker

This thing rocks love it. Perfect "exploring" rig.

To order:
-D606s
-new taillight/ turn signals
-GSXR pipe
-Baja headlight

To sell:
-collectable body parts

Soon to install:
-XR forks and rear shock






Service records
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:45 AM   #15327
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachedoutoffroad View Post
Took the Transalp on her maiden voyage around Ft Rucker

This thing rocks love it. Perfect "exploring" rig.

To order:
-D606s
-new taillight/ turn signals
-GSXR pipe
-Baja headlight

To sell:
-collectable body parts

Soon to install:
-XR forks and rear shock






Service records
Nice bike, what i would add to your buy list new tires and a crash bar, perhaps a skidplate, keep us informed about your modding fun.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:16 AM   #15328
Ladder106
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Quote:
How bad is it to hit that button a couple times?
It should cause no damage whatsoever.

The starter is constantly meshed with the large ring gear that lives by the stator magnet/flywheel on the left side of the engine.

Unlike a car that physically "throws" the starter gear into a ring gear that is locked onto the crankshaft, the motorcycle uses a Sprague clutch on this gear.

This means that the gear will spin freely in one direction and not the other.

When the engine is running the starter is still meshed with this gear but the crank speed pushes the clutch in the "freewheel" mode so the starter doesn't spin.

When the engine is stopped the starter motor exceeds the crank speed (which is zero), engages the clutch and spins the engine to start.

So...hitting the starter button when the engine is running will do nothing but spin the starter motor. You should not hear any grinding or nasty noises other than the sound of the starter motor spinning.

As long as the crank speed of the running engine is greater than the speed that the starter can spin the crank (at idle the engine is still spinning faster than the starter can spin it), the clutch will continue to "freewheel" on the crank as it always does when the engine is running......so no damage to anything mechanical.

Worse thing that happens is electrical system drain and overheating of the starter motor if this is done for a long while or the result of a sticking starter solenoid or other electrical malfunction.
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:42 AM   #15329
Belgian Waffles
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Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 869
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
It should cause no damage whatsoever.

The starter is constantly meshed with the large ring gear that lives by the stator magnet/flywheel on the left side of the engine.

Unlike a car that physically "throws" the starter gear into a ring gear that is locked onto the crankshaft, the motorcycle uses a Sprague clutch on this gear.

This means that the gear will spin freely in one direction and not the other.

When the engine is running the starter is still meshed with this gear but the crank speed pushes the clutch in the "freewheel" mode so the starter doesn't spin.

When the engine is stopped the starter motor exceeds the crank speed (which is zero), engages the clutch and spins the engine to start.

So...hitting the starter button when the engine is running will do nothing but spin the starter motor. You should not hear any grinding or nasty noises other than the sound of the starter motor spinning.

As long as the crank speed of the running engine is greater than the speed that the starter can spin the crank (at idle the engine is still spinning faster than the starter can spin it), the clutch will continue to "freewheel" on the crank as it always does when the engine is running......so no damage to anything mechanical.

Worse thing that happens is electrical system drain and overheating of the starter motor if this is done for a long while or the result of a sticking starter solenoid or other electrical malfunction.
That makes a great deal of sense given the lack of nasty crushing noises. Thanks Ray, now I can sleep at night any time my guard hits my starter (which should be never now that I covered it).




But wow Ray, how the hell do you know every little detail about this bike?? You continue to amaze us.

I'm going to give this guy a pack of gold stars next time I see him, that way he can keep a tally of all the other Transalps he saves via ADV by sticking the stars on the side of this tank
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Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
Past: 1999 KLR 650, 1990 Tengai 650
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:49 AM   #15330
Ladder106
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The Sprague clutch system is not specific to the TA, rather it's used extensivelly throughout the motorcycle world.

But in general, you just take 'em apart to figgure out what makes them tick.

BTW, J, looks like another chance at nice body panels...see above.
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