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Old 08-23-2013, 10:33 PM   #15361
ON8JU
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Location: Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
I'm interested to hear the replies about this one... Ray?

If it doesn't work, I did the $5 rear shock spacer mod. Any ~10mm long piece of metal pipe and use it to compress and preload your rear spring, thus increasing ride height. I got a good few inches out of that.

And let's be honest... It was Ray's tip to me in the first place
Ok, you got my attention! I’v been checking the spring, and it is still cf the factory settings (197mm or 7.77in). I though compressing the spring would only result in a stiffer spring, not in getting the rear-end up. Any link or topic about this? Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoddo View Post
did this on my 650, same kind of link.
reversing it raise the rear by 40mm, perfect if you plan on mounting africa twin forks
can't tell you about the center sand since I never had one, still it shouldn't be a problem
Thanks for the reply! Should be virtually the same 650 or 700. Will try compressing the spring first en see what it gives. If not enough I’ll try to invert the linkage. Hope it doesn’t screw up the ride, changing the forks is (yet) not planned.
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Old 08-24-2013, 12:15 AM   #15362
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
Oddometer: 114
Quote:
Originally Posted by ON8JU View Post
Hi guy's, I need some of your wrenching advice for my XL700V.
Today I removed the rear shock to check for wear and put some grease in the bearings. While the shock was out I was checking it for possibility’s to lift the rear end to improve ground clearance.

I noticed that the cushion arm is bent down from the pivoting point to the blot holding the shock. If it would be turned over, I guess it would lift the rear a lot.
Possibly so much that the centerstand could not reach the ground anymore


Anyone tried it? advice welcome!

Ok, what could i say, the XLV650 have same link i think ( looks similar ) , i have the fork from an RD04 in it and the U-mount from a RD04 AT shock on my original ( 1,5 cm longer ), it fits pretty good and the TÜV here in germany would pass it. The main stand, works but... when you use it, the rear tire lightly hits the ground, the side stand i had to make 5cm longer.
To have the rear wheel free you need to weld a 1cm ( i think that is enough) pice under it.
I make a photo today and post it.... but guys the mod is not compl. at the moment so be gentle
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:20 AM   #15363
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
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Here is the little fairing:



and here mounted, the hole in the middle is to check the cooler fluid:



To answer the question about the main stand, thats how my bike looks like
on the main stand:



and i guess you find out what is still missing to ride



Later I will welt a little plate on my mainstand to enlarge the lengh of it to get clearance for the wheel, but first i have to mod a wilbers shock ( new spring and lengh enhancement ) and that will cost a bit, and the foot pegs from SW-Motech.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:55 AM   #15364
AppFan
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Hotmamaandme, ordered the light, it arrived this morning and is on the bike. Thanks for the idea!
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:15 AM   #15365
Hotmamaandme
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Location: Gardnerville NV
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Sweet

Quote:
Originally Posted by AppFan View Post
Hotmamaandme, ordered the light, it arrived this morning and is on the bike. Thanks for the idea!
I haven't rode at night yet. I think for the price, plug and play its a pretty good deal.
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:40 AM   #15366
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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AGM Battery

Installed a new sealed AGM battery in the TA today. Fits good. Didn't use the rubber holder....

From here.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=360722868693 .... I have these batteries from this seller in my other bikes. So far, so good.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:28 PM   #15367
Cruz
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Location: Northside Brisbane, Qld Australia
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I fitted a Lithium battery to mine yesterday, 1/3 of the weight and a bit smaller, but packing comes with the battery. It certainly gives the starter motor a scare when you hit the start button.
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:46 AM   #15368
Ladder106
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Stuck a Shorai battery in my DR750.......ZING. Like buying a new starter motor.

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Old 08-25-2013, 07:26 AM   #15369
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Just stuck a Shorai battery in my DR750.......ZING. Like buying a new starter motor.
Will be interested to hear you guys experience with lipo batteries. Did a lot of study on them.... http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757934 ... and decided I didn't want to take the chance yet. And of course there is that $$$ thing.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:54 AM   #15370
Cruz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Will be interested to hear you guys experience with lipo batteries. Did a lot of study on them.... http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=757934 ... and decided I didn't want to take the chance yet. And of course there is that $$$ thing.
I have been the same, but was offered one at a decent price to try out in the old girl.
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:59 PM   #15371
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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The big single cylinder Dr750 is hard on batteries. Even with a good quality lead/acid battery, if the bike didn't start on the first few revolutions, the subsequent attempts resulted in slower and slower cranking speed.

The bike normally starts on the first few turns of the motor....but.

Last week I started it after being away on holiday for 3 weeks.

The Shorai provided obvious faster cranking but rather than weakening after 15-20 seconds, the second attempt seemed to provide even faster cranking speeds. At this point, the fuel pump had enough fuel in the carbs to start the bike so I don't know what would happen with later attempts.

For now, at least, I'm happy with the performance.

It's not too important on the TA but if you were building a very lightweight dirt bike or a cafe bike where battery size and placement is a consideration, I think that they would be a large advantage
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:03 AM   #15372
Belgian Waffles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ON8JU View Post
I though compressing the spring would only result in a stiffer spring, not in getting the rear-end up.
In my case compressing the spring did both. I've still got the original shock so it was getting pretty soft. The static sag was enough so that I never really reached full extension of my swingarm, so basically I had less usable travel and a lower ride height. Compressing the spring extended my swingarm and increased my ride height. Of course, this option is limited by the full extension of your shock (which I guess would be stock height, for me). In my case it was still a night and day difference, and still fits well since I have stiffened but stock forks up front. I hope that makes some sort of sense.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:20 AM   #15373
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
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Special offer

Hi my partners in transalp freakiness, i have a special bundle for u :







I contains 98% of the parts you need to change to disc brake and AT swingarm. The set is from a AT RD04. I have paied 400Euros for this,
and now i find out that it would not work for my 650 , because the technical inspection will fail :-(

Most parts i have cleaned, checked/ repaired and painted. the only real broken thing is the plastic for the tube to the brakefluid tank:




the rim from the wheel have some corosion, i sand the parts and fillt them with JB-Weld
my plan was to paint it and use it... the best is to change the rim



When you are interested or have questions write an email, and yes i would ship it to
you guys, problem is the costs : till 10kg - 36Euro till 20kg - 68Euro
i would split it when it is cheaper in parts to ship it.
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:50 PM   #15374
Ladder106
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Springs

Quote:
I though compressing the spring would only result in a stiffer spring, not in getting the rear-end up.
Compressing the spring does NOT make the spring stiffer. A spring rate of 10 pounds/in (for example) will exert no force if it's just sitting on the workbench.

Now compress it 1 inch and it will exert 10 pounds of "force". Compress it 2 inches and you get 20 pounds.....BUT compressing more and more will not turn it into a stronger/heavier spring. This can only be done by (a) increasing the wire diameter (making the torsion bar stronger) or (b) reducing the number of coils (making the torsion bar shorter).

Any spring is just a torsion bar...meaning a piece of metal that is held at both ends and twisted (picture wringing out a towel). Over time and many twisting cycles, the metal gets tired and does not return to it's original position any longer.

In a spring this results in the springs overall length becoming shorter...or "sacking out".

In many of our 20 year old TAs this has happened. So now the rear suspension must compress farther for the shorter spring to provide enough force to hold the rear end of the machine up.

This is bad because it alters the front end geometry and makes the bike steer more like a chopper. Loading the bike only makes this worse and can result in an evil handline bike (As J found out on a high speed gravel road in Oregon a few years ago).

Now, as long as there is more space between the spring coils than there is available travel in the shock, we can use a simple spacer to take up the "slack" caused by the sacked out spring. This returns the rear ride height back to "normal" settings.

On a stardard TA, we should be looking at about 1 3/4 inch (45mm) of rear sag AS MEASURED WITH RIDER AND LUGGAGE ON BOARD.

If you do not achieve this, you can turn the preload adjuster on the shock down. If you still can not achieve this you can (a) lighten your load or (b) replace your spring with one of a higher spring rate.

Hope this makes sense. It's a bit more complex than this but you can discover that by yourself by researching suspension actions on the Racetech and other sites.

Enjoy

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Old 08-26-2013, 11:18 PM   #15375
Backonthebike
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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Thanks Thunder Dan

When Thunder Dan mentioned that he needed a new bashplate to fit his new exhaust on the TransHawk, I PMed him, and he kindly sold me his old one....
From this



to this





I'm nowhere near the mechanic that Dan is, but his bike was always the inspiration for the resurrection of my basket case. Along the way he provided helpful advice, both through ADV and over the phone. I am delighted to have a little bit of his bike's DNA in my bike now.
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