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Old 08-26-2013, 11:28 PM   #15376
ShinyRider
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Looks great!!

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Old 08-27-2013, 12:17 PM   #15377
Belgian Waffles
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Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Compressing the spring does NOT make the spring stiffer. A spring rate of 10 pounds/in (for example) will exert no force if it's just sitting on the workbench.

...

Hope this makes sense. It's a bit more complex than this but you can discover that by yourself by researching suspension actions on the Racetech and other sites.

Enjoy
A much more technical and accurate explanation of what was in my head. I'm still learning to use my words...
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:43 AM   #15378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Compressing the spring does NOT make the spring stiffer. A spring rate of 10 pounds/in (for example) will exert no force if it's just sitting on the workbench.

Now compress it 1 inch and it will exert 10 pounds of "force". Compress it 2 inches and you get 20 pounds.....BUT compressing more and more will not turn it into a stronger/heavier spring. This can only be done by (a) increasing the wire diameter (making the torsion bar stronger) or (b) reducing the number of coils (making the torsion bar shorter).

Any spring is just a torsion bar...meaning a piece of metal that is held at both ends and twisted (picture wringing out a towel). Over time and many twisting cycles, the metal gets tired and does not return to it's original position any longer.

In a spring this results in the springs overall length becoming shorter...or "sacking out".

In many of our 20 year old TAs this has happened. So now the rear suspension must compress farther for the shorter spring to provide enough force to hold the rear end of the machine up.

This is bad because it alters the front end geometry and makes the bike steer more like a chopper. Loading the bike only makes this worse and can result in an evil handline bike (As J found out on a high speed gravel road in Oregon a few years ago).

Now, as long as there is more space between the spring coils than there is available travel in the shock, we can use a simple spacer to take up the "slack" caused by the sacked out spring. This returns the rear ride height back to "normal" settings.

On a stardard TA, we should be looking at about 1 3/4 inch (45mm) of rear sag AS MEASURED WITH RIDER AND LUGGAGE ON BOARD.

If you do not achieve this, you can turn the preload adjuster on the shock down. If you still can not achieve this you can (a) lighten your load or (b) replace your spring with one of a higher spring rate.

Hope this makes sense. It's a bit more complex than this but you can discover that by yourself by researching suspension actions on the Racetech and other sites.
indeed, got it, mounted the spring back in place.
thanks for this!
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:48 AM   #15379
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Hey guys, anyone have any simple, cheap and cheerful mods for the 89 TransAlp saddle? When I ride it for a couple of hours, my bum starts to go numb. So, any tips on making it more comfortable would be a great help.
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Old 08-29-2013, 06:14 AM   #15380
csustewy
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Originally Posted by ghulst View Post
Hey guys, anyone have any simple, cheap and cheerful mods for the 89 TransAlp saddle? When I ride it for a couple of hours, my bum starts to go numb. So, any tips on making it more comfortable would be a great help.
While I run a Corbin saddle that came installed on my TA, I would not recommend it. I would start with this list for affordable seat modification (bold words are links to websites):
  • DIY - tabs across the top of page to navigate through the process, not sure of foam cost
  • Spencer's - $50-75 plus shipping
  • Seat Concepts - plug and play for $160 plus shipping

Hope this helps. And I also hope some others with more specific experience will add to this start...
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:00 AM   #15381
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comfy seat

While I don't classify the Corbin as "comfy," somehow the rock-hard, broad platform of support a Corbin provides just plain works. Is it the best choice for off-road work? Probably not, as it's a little harder to get a foot down and doesn't let you move around front to rear a lot for doing fancy stuff with either front or rear tires. I do a lot of long-day, 2-up riding on both the Transalp and a V-Strom, and this is where the Corbin shines for me.

Spencer seat mod? Maybe; maybe not. I had the stock seat on my 2001 Bonneville done by him, and found marginal improvement. 2-up, that seat is biting my nuts in about seven miles.

No experience with Seat Concepts.

Bad experience with Rick Meyer on a V-Strom saddle -- finally persuaded him to give me a stock seat and my money back.

Pete
'89 TA, etc
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:21 AM   #15382
Belgian Waffles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghulst View Post
simple, cheap and cheerful mods for the 89 TransAlp saddle? .
Bicycle shorts? I just got a pair for my road bike... interested to see how much it helps on the TA saddle.

I've got a sergeant seat that came with the bike. Its comfy and lets me slide around on the technical stuff, but like any seat you're going to get sore on 6+ hour days. So I'll try the bike shorts.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:45 AM   #15383
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Originally Posted by csustewy View Post
Corbin , I would not recommend it. .
i actually like it because it sits you a bit lower and the cog comes down just a bit from stock which is great for street handling, but harder to get to standing and no fore and aft movement for dirt . I like it but not for the 400 bucks they want for a new one or 250 to recover
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:58 PM   #15384
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Hi my partners in transalp freakiness, i have a special bundle for u :
What price would you want for everything without the shock?

Is that patched area of the rim the only part that is bad? About how deep was the corrosion?

Do you know the condition of the suspension linkage needle bearings?

Is the brake fluid tank in there somewhere or is that missing?
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:38 PM   #15385
Tachedoutoffroad
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Pro Taper ATV high bends are almost a direct replacement for the stock bars.
Maybe a little taller, but not much.

.... Off to order Rox Risers....
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:10 PM   #15386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
What price would you want for everything without the shock?

Is that patched area of the rim the only part that is bad? About how deep was the corrosion?

Do you know the condition of the suspension linkage needle bearings?

Is the brake fluid tank in there somewhere or is that missing?
Hallo to your questions:

The price : 300Euro without the shock 400 compl. + shipment

The corosion: it was not so deep but there where some places more, the guy i bought the stuff from use his bike in the winter and the salt does the rest. I can take some pictures if u want, but the nave is OK

The suspension linkage needle bearings, i cleaned, sanded and repaintetd the linkage ( now it is black ) , put new grease in and for me the bearings are ok, the seals looks good too

The brake fluid tank, is missing, but you could use every tank u can find i think, here the problem is , the little plastic is broken where the tube gets in, but this should be buyable at a honda store.

The Africatwin bikes here are very high priced and so the parts too, i was glad to get this for that good price, when the guy would be a better cleaner and take more care about his bike would be better but.....and then it dont fit my bike or better the TÜV said NO....

The swingarm is ok, every screwhole works, no chainsuck, a bit corosion, at the backend, but is fixed and painted too, missing is the chainrubber, that was broken, so i removed it.

I hope that helps you if you have more questions , just ask.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:27 AM   #15387
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Hi, quick question....
Can anyone tell me the name and part number for this but out of my 1996 Transalp carburetor?
Bike model number is JH2PD06A0TM001804




I was given to believe it was what the needle seated in to and was called an emulsion tube, but there's nothing on the parts list called that and local Honda people have been no help, I guess as they are not doing the work on it so didn't pull it out.
Thanks.
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TransalperNZ screwed with this post 08-30-2013 at 03:34 AM
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:55 AM   #15388
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Does it have a thread in the end with the O ring fitted?

There is nothing like it in my Haynes manual either.
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Cruz screwed with this post 08-30-2013 at 04:44 AM
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:30 AM   #15389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TransalperNZ View Post
Hi, quick question....
Can anyone tell me the name and part number for this but out of my 1996 Transalp carburetor?
Bike model number is JH2PD06A0TM001804



I was given to believe it was what the needle seated in to and was called an emulsion tube, but there's nothing on the parts list called that and local Honda people have been no help, I guess as they are not doing the work on it so didn't pull it out.
Thanks.
I don't see anything here that resembles that.

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/piec...NSALP+600.html


What's wrong with it? It's not an item that would normally wear. No?
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:38 AM   #15390
DantesDame
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Originally Posted by Motoswami View Post
While I don't classify the Corbin as "comfy," somehow the rock-hard, broad platform of support a Corbin provides just plain works.
Maybe.

I had a Corbin on my '91 VFR and LOVED it! I ran a SS1000 (1000 miles in 24 hours) and my bum never once complained. HOWEVER - I borrowed a friend's Corbin from his VFR and hated it within 200 miles. (FYI: my bike came with the Corbin; it wasn't custom made for me)
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