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Old 03-21-2014, 02:14 AM   #16411
TransAfrika
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Location: Wesel / germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaraBiker View Post
Thanks for the info!

Hi first welcome :-)

is there a special reason to by a BJ 88 ? i ask cause many drivers with BJ under 90 have changed many things on there bike:
- like rear suspension
- front brake rotor
- swingarm to AT cause of using a disc brake
- front fork springs
- and so more

i would prefer a newer BJ casue some things are easier then , in Europe are many of this typ available here in the forum are many US guys and they have the problem that there are only BJ till 90 ? or 89 ? dont know exactly.

When you buy it for modding fun then keep your eye open for a old RD 03 AT or RD04 for the parts or take directly such a bike and mod this one.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:53 AM   #16412
Dekatria
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Hi guys,

Currently busy stripping down my PD10 to get to the valvecover gasket. Haven't gone this deep before, so it feels as a nice exploration also, Honda seems to have a real hard-on for worthless screws. This is now the third year running I had to drill out a stuck screw, once again at a different place.



I was wondering though - is it necessary to soak the new valve cover gasket in oil overnight before putting it in?

Cheers.
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:28 AM   #16413
jwb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekatria View Post
Hi guys,

I was wondering though - is it necessary to soak the new valve cover gasket in oil overnight before putting it in?

Cheers.
Just put a uniform film of oil on the surface with your finger before installing the valve covers.

On my bike, the gasket is glued into the valve cover with semi-permanent glue. I don't know if that's normal or not.

By the way, what's the yogurt for?
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Old 03-21-2014, 11:31 AM   #16414
Dekatria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwb View Post
Just put a uniform film of oil on the surface with your finger before installing the valve covers.

On my bike, the gasket is glued into the valve cover with semi-permanent glue. I don't know if that's normal or not.

By the way, what's the yogurt for?
Alright, cheers the Yoghurt thing is my screws bucket, so I can keep track of them all. Quite handy actually
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:58 PM   #16415
R_Rick
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Was a decent enough day to get out to my shed to continue reassembling the Alp (it's now snowing ... go figure!).

I seem to have developed a leak that appears to be coming from the face / knob of the petcock - only leaking when I jiggle the knob [this is bordering on JM material ...]. Is this something that a rebuild kit should solve?
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Old 03-22-2014, 03:53 PM   #16416
jwb
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Pals, I was cleaning out the garage and decided to give away all these scrap parts of my '89 TA that I don't use any more, like fairings and headlights and stuff. See http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...9#post23755579 if you need anything like that.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:50 AM   #16417
R_Rick
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GPR Exhaust

Took some time this morning to install the GPR exhaust I picked up this winter.



It had a few different hardware pieces for mounting. I found that the best piece was the small angle bracket.


I originally had it bolted to the hole for the seat bolt as I don't bolt my seat, however, found that the can swayed a bit too much as the rubber covered clamp was set too far forward. Also, it raised the can and the mid-pipe up just enough to interfere with the side cover (the top spring clip was pulled very close to the bolt hole for the side cover which would have required cutting the side panel or leaving off the top spring). Instead went with the mount position for the original exhaust. I did need to enlarge one of holes to around 3/8" for the bolt to fit.



First went straight in line but didn't like how it was positioning the can


So decided to angle it slightly which moved the clamp back about an inch


It feels like a more rigid mount position but may fab up a bracket to bring the clamp back another inch - will ride if for a bit and then decide.

It is a close fit between the mid-pipe and the header which rendered the gasket I bought useless as it is too thick. I need to come up with another sealing method - any one have any ideas? [edit: have heard that Permatex Copper RTV works well - going to track down a tube and see what happens] I still need to coat the header pipes - was waiting for warm weather so I could spray them outside but, I suspect, they will still be bare by the time riding season ends. lol

This pic was taken during a dry fit ... I do not intend to run it without the clamp.

From the rear:




I fired it up (for the first time since November ) - it has a nice grumble but perhaps a bit too loud for my liking. The kit did come with a replaceable DB killer which I am going to try. If I ever get a memory card for my new camera I will post up a video of each.

R_Rick screwed with this post 03-24-2014 at 04:37 AM
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:00 PM   #16418
mgorman
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I'd like to have something that nice for my 89 Transalp but your mention of DB's kills that idea. I referee bicycle races on mine and need it to be quiet so I am running the stock pipe.
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:28 PM   #16419
MookieBlaylock
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Puke

Quote:
Originally Posted by R_Rick View Post
[edit: have heard that Permatex Copper RTV works well - going to track down a tube and see what happens]
i think you still need a metalic piece
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:03 PM   #16420
R_Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MookieBlaylock View Post
i think you still need a metalic piece
Why so?
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:01 PM   #16421
MookieBlaylock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R_Rick View Post




.
are you talking about where the midpipe attaches in this pic ? that's what i think needs a clamp and not just sealant
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:09 PM   #16422
TransAfrika
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MookieBlaylock View Post
are you talking about where the midpipe attaches in this pic ? that's what i think needs a clamp and not just sealant
Hi you are right, there should be a stainless steel clamb for this job.

I have a leovince one and this came with a camp and there where no sealants needed. Perhaps you have it still in your package or they forgot it in italy what says the manual or the packing list?
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:20 AM   #16423
mas335
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The thought of having to break loose sealant to remove a muffler sounds a bit unappealing. This muffler to header connection not only connects this joint it also supports the rear end of the header by way of the muffler hanger bolts so it should be well supported. Where is the original clamp?

It doesn't look like the connection is big enough in diameter to accept the original fiber seal but if it is I would sure use it along with a clamp of some type.

What ever you end up doing make sure it is a good seal, otherwise you will end up with a air leak and have exhaust popping noise when decelerating. You did replace the 2 copper seals at the header connection right?

Nice looking muffler but the raw unpainted header will rust fairly easy if it gets damp.
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:36 AM   #16424
R_Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MookieBlaylock View Post
are you talking about where the midpipe attaches in this pic ? that's what i think needs a clamp and not just sealant
Yes - this pic was taken during a dry fit. It is / was clamped down prior to starting it up.
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:44 AM   #16425
R_Rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
The thought of having to break loose sealant to remove a muffler sounds a bit unappealing. This muffler to header connection not only connects this joint it also supports the rear end of the header by way of the muffler hanger bolts so it should be well supported. Where is the original clamp?

It doesn't look like the connection is big enough in diameter to accept the original fiber seal but if it is I would sure use it along with a clamp of some type.

What ever you end up doing make sure it is a good seal, otherwise you will end up with a air leak and have exhaust popping noise when decelerating. You did replace the 2 copper seals at the header connection right?

Nice looking muffler but the raw unpainted header will rust fairly easy if it gets damp.
Clamp was sitting on bench when this pic was taken (dry fit only). It was after it was clamped down that I decided I needed a seal between the joints. I had picked up an OEM gasket which was a no-go as it was far too thick so trying to come up with an different solution.

Yes, header connect has two new seals (when I pulled the header off there were no gaskets).

It's been too cold out to paint the header and don't want to do it inside. Once it warms up I'll likely give it a quick shot of hi-temp
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