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Old 07-14-2014, 09:18 AM   #16861
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekatria View Post
I've ridden it now for about 120km. The clutch works fine - this is the only fault I've found since the reparation.

Did you measure the thickness of the new fiber discs?
-No. I simply replaced them, and adjusted the clutch accordingly

Did you replace the steel discs?
-Yes Good

What brand?
-TRW Lucas, both the fibre and steel discs never heard of this brand

Does the bike "pull" or want to "crawl" when you are sitting in first gear with the engine running?
-Ever so slightly, but it doesn't move at all when I've planted my feet on the ground. It should not do this at all. If it can crawl and move a 450lb bike then the clutch plates are dragging pretty good.

What weight oil did you install?
-50:50 10W40-15W50 mixture. The fibrediscs were soaked in 10W40 for a prolonged amount of time - I even gave the entire new assembly a soak. They should be covered with oil before assembly but not neccessary to leave them in oil, no harm done here

Are you certain you stacked the discs exactly the same way?
-Yes. I triple-checked before installing to be sure. I'm Captain OCD when it comes to things like that welcome to the club

DID you correctly torque the 4 screws on the clutch lifter plate?
-Yes. Also triple-checked those.

Bear in mind it's not a huge issue in my opinion (I can easily ride the thing without any problems regardless of whether this is solved or not), but it's just something annoying at a traffic light
Let us know if it changes over time
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Old 07-14-2014, 09:27 AM   #16862
Dekatria
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Location: The Netherlands, Europe
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When I say 'pull' I mean that if the rear wheels is lifted up, the bike is in gear and I've pulled it in the clutch, the wheel starts turning a little. I don't feel drag at all when I'm sitting on it with feet (and wheels) planted on the ground... it doesn't really want to go.

I'll make sure to let you guys know if the situation changes - this Saturday the bike will go to the garage anyway (new tires, wheelbearings and valve adjustment) so I'll ask them for their thoughts on the matter. As said before, it's just a minor nuisance. Cheers for the help
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Old 07-14-2014, 10:28 AM   #16863
mas335
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Location: Piedmont region NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekatria View Post
When I say 'pull' I mean that if the rear wheels is lifted up, the bike is in gear and I've pulled it in the clutch, the wheel starts turning a little. I don't feel drag at all when I'm sitting on it with feet (and wheels) planted on the ground... it doesn't really want to go.

I'll make sure to let you guys know if the situation changes - this Saturday the bike will go to the garage anyway (new tires, wheelbearings and valve adjustment) so I'll ask them for their thoughts on the matter. As said before, it's just a minor nuisance. Cheers for the help
This is perfectly normal
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:02 AM   #16864
Ladder106
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Quote:
This is perfectly normal
Yes it is. You haven't done anything wrong except for overthinking it a bit.

After a technical trail ride (with a minor amount of clutch abuse) my TA will also not find "N" with the engine running. After the plates cool down a bit it's fine....but there are still rare times when it won't go.

Give the clutch a few hours to get worn in some and then see what happens.

I might add that sitting at a stoplight with the bike in neutral is asking to be rear-ended by our cell phone using-texting-radio blaring-distracted drivers. Make sure you are pointed between the stopped cars, keep it in gear and watch your mirrors.
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Old 07-14-2014, 11:27 AM   #16865
Dekatria
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Oh, I surely know that story. Over here in the Netherlands, you're drilled during riding lessons that you should always check your mirrors, look for a way out, and go to the front of the line if need be. Myself, I rarely stay at the back of the line, precisely for that reason.

My gripe with the unavailable N is more that once you are at the front of the line, holding the clutch can grow to be a bit tiresome

Good to know it probably isn't anything major, but just the bike 'getting used' to its new parts.
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:05 PM   #16866
locorider
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I never go into N while waiting in a light or traffic. Thats a no-no. If you do, you may be "pushed" by the one behind you.
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:17 PM   #16867
Clockwatcher
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I need a little info............

The air adjust screw on my TA is leaking..........does anyone know the size of the o-ring? The replacement also includes the complete air screw kit, is this the best fix , or just the o-ring?
The compilation mentioned it but not the replacement..........
Any knowledge on this would be appreciated.........
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:48 AM   #16868
mas335
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There can't be much fuel leaking from that air adjustment needle?

The needle itself doesn't need to be replaced unless it is damaged which is unlikely. I have seen a few with the needle tip bent, if handled carefully there is no reason it should be bent.

I have seen carbs with the needle spring missing or the brass washer missing and once found both missing.

As for the O ring, the inside diameter is impossible to measure accurately, it's just too small. I went through this years ago, I found a source for O rings that were very close in size and work fine but I had to buy a pack of 100.

Send me your address and I'll mail you a couple.

Sounds like your O ring has completely disenegrated or flattened out but I still don't see how fuel is leaking.

Getting the old O ring out can be tricky if it hangs inside, I use a dental tool to fish them out of there.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:27 PM   #16869
Clockwatcher
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As usual.................

Mark is correct..............problem was the bowl gasket...........was just puddling up and dripping at the air screw.
I replaced the bowl gasket with the Suzuki oil filter o-ring fit right in and did the job..........now lets see how long it will last.
Thanks Mark, your the MAN...........
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:55 PM   #16870
rotorhead511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clockwatcher View Post
Mark is correct..............problem was the bowl gasket...........was just puddling up and dripping at the air screw.
I replaced the bowl gasket with the Suzuki oil filter o-ring fit right in and did the job..........now lets see how long it will last.
Thanks Mark, your the MAN...........
What make and model Suzuki? The TA I'm picking up in Sep leaks fuel after the bowl has been empty a while. I don't think it's the gasket but would like to have spare stuff on hand just in case. I looked into TA carb parts and you can't just get a bowl gasket and the kit isn't cheap.

Thanks
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:18 PM   #16871
Clockwatcher
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Ok............

Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorhead511 View Post
What make and model Suzuki? The TA I'm picking up in Sep leaks fuel after the bowl has been empty a while. I don't think it's the gasket but would like to have spare stuff on hand just in case. I looked into TA carb parts and you can't just get a bowl gasket and the kit isn't cheap.

Thanks
Any year dr650 the big one...........about 10 bux for 2...........
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:55 PM   #16872
mas335
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also used on DR350's P/N: 09280-72001 Over priced but priceless.
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:14 PM   #16873
oregonadvrider
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Fully loaded 2 up weight. GVWR?

Needed to get out of the 100 deg. heat in Grants Pass (Or.) so we took a trip deep into the Redwoods. Stopped on a scale on the way home just for shitz and giggles, 250 lbs. on the front wheel, 650 lbs. on the rear, 900 total (with both of us on the bike). Anyone know the GVWR on these beasts? 650 is right about at the max load of the Duro rear tire by the way. Trip was great, the Transalp ran perfect the whole way.
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:45 PM   #16874
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oregonadvrider View Post
Needed to get out of the 100 deg. heat in Grants Pass (Or.) so we took a trip deep into the Redwoods. Stopped on a scale on the way home just for shitz and giggles, 250 lbs. on the front wheel, 650 lbs. on the rear, 900 total (with both of us on the bike). Anyone know the GVWR on these beasts?
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:31 AM   #16875
Dekatria
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Location: The Netherlands, Europe
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Hi guys,

Got an issue here - 7000kms ago I changed out the rear valve cover gasket on my high mileage (55K) PD10 because it was leaking at the back left corner. It has worked tremendously well, but now the weather's been heating up (above 25 degrees Celcius) I checked the corner as I have done regularly, only to find out there was another build up of oil all of a sudden... it seems to be leaking again, now from underneath the back of the gasket. Both cover bolts are torqued up to spec, though the gasket seems to be pushed outward by 1mm around the middle of the cylinder. The rest of the gasket is fine (=bonedry) - mainly the rear left side seems to be sweating.



The bike runs beautifully, no problems whatsoever.. except for this. Now, I'll be leaving for a long trip to the North of Europe in 3 days, so this is one of those headaches I can surely do without. Any thoughts on what's what, and maybe on how to solve this?
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