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Old 03-25-2009, 02:42 PM   #6781
showkey
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Northern , IL
Oddometer: 1,724
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalDave
When I tear my forks apart to install my Hyperpro springs and RaceTech emulators, what other internal parts should I replace besides the fork seals? I seem to recall someone suggesting replacing the fork bushings - is this part #51415-MG2-701 (Bush, Slider) in the online TA parts fiches? Anything else that could be worn with 40k miles on the clock?

ADD

Bush guide 51414-MB4-003 this is the top bushing

Bush slider is the bottom bushing
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Old 03-25-2009, 09:56 PM   #6782
Lear60man
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Just ordered a set of Metzeler Saharas for the TA. Are these rims designed tubless or can I go with tubes or fill em with Jeffs Balls? Seriously I forgot to factor this in my internet buying frenzy today.
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:29 AM   #6783
ravelv
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Believe or not, yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@TheQuadShop
Sooo.....are we still talking bikes here?
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:40 AM   #6784
ravelv
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Also all fork slider can be worn if fork oil have not been replaced in time. When install new bushings, check for radial freeplay. You can also check this with present bushings, maybe no need to be replaced. But if they are stock, there will be freeplay most likely, especially on left side. I have now ~60 000kms on clock and bushings are badly worn.


Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalDave
When I tear my forks apart to install my Hyperpro springs and RaceTech emulators, what other internal parts should I replace besides the fork seals? I seem to recall someone suggesting replacing the fork bushings - is this part #51415-MG2-701 (Bush, Slider) in the online TA parts fiches? Anything else that could be worn with 40k miles on the clock?
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:29 AM   #6785
Andy G
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Location: eastern Munich outback, Bavaria, Germany
Oddometer: 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear60man
Just ordered a set of Metzeler Saharas for the TA. Are these rims designed tubless or can I go with tubes or fill em with Jeffs Balls? Seriously I forgot to factor this in my internet buying frenzy today.
All spoke wheels except BMW are for tube tires. You can use tubes in tubeless tires, you can't use no tubes in tube tires...

If the tire is around the place where the spokes go thru the rims, this "hole" has to be sealed... BMW moved the spokes that far to the side of the rim that they are next to the tire.

sombody knowing English better than me can probably describe better, or try to find some pics on the net if you want to know the difference between tube / tubless spoke wheels...

Short: use tubes on AT & TA independent on what kind of tires you use!

Cheers, Andy
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Old 03-26-2009, 07:11 AM   #6786
debaisley
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Location: Rotterdam , NY
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When I bottom the front suspension , my fender hits the crashbar mounts. Is there anyway to make it so it bottoms like a 1/2" earlier ?, perhaps maybe adding a little bit more fork oil ?
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:14 AM   #6787
Ladder106
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How often do you bottom?

Raising the fork oil level essentially changes the volume of the "air spring" that is above the oil level. Reducing this volume makes this stiffer offering greater resistance to fork travel in the last couple of inches of travel.

It's by no means a way to prevent bottoming completely but if you're bottoming often it's the correct way to fix it.
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:29 AM   #6788
debaisley
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I am not bottoming often , as a matter of fact I only bottomed once , I was going over this huge lump of dirt , about 2 feet tall, and it was a lot steeper than it looked, it was like hitting a wall. It put a crack in the fender that i can fix with epoxy.
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Old 03-26-2009, 09:47 AM   #6789
Blackbert
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Location: Belgium, wrong side of the river
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Quote:
Originally Posted by debaisley
When I bottom the front suspension , my fender hits the crashbar mounts. Is there anyway to make it so it bottoms like a 1/2" earlier ?, perhaps maybe adding a little bit more fork oil ?
I had a simmilar problem when mounting a high fender. The crashbars met with eachother in the middle, clamped by a huge metal clamp, atached to the upper radiator mounts.
Too thick, too much sticking out.
I cut off about 1,5 inch of both bars, welded an L shaped part of steel in place, and used 2 industrial mounts for hydraulic or air tubes, made of plastic. these are a perfect fit on the radiator mounts, and are secured with 2 bolts/nuts, holding the crashbars as well. For stabillity, I added a flat steel strip connecting the upper bolts. Works well, survived a few crashes in rocky, muddy Wales last weekend.



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Old 03-26-2009, 10:29 AM   #6790
Bummer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbert
I had a simmilar problem when mounting a high fender. The crashbars met with eachother in the middle, clamped by a huge metal clamp, atached to the upper radiator mounts.
Too thick, too much sticking out.
I cut off about 1,5 inch of both bars, welded an L shaped part of steel in place, and used 2 industrial mounts for hydraulic or air tubes, made of plastic. these are a perfect fit on the radiator mounts, and are secured with 2 bolts/nuts, holding the crashbars as well. For stabillity, I added a flat steel strip connecting the upper bolts. Works well, survived a few crashes in rocky, muddy Wales last weekend.



Bert, my man.. Good to see a nice dirty Transalp.. remember throttle is your friend.. :O)
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:20 PM   #6791
WeeBee
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Cleaning/Flushing TA Cooling System?

I'm not experiencing any cooling issues but my TA is close to turning 40k so I figure it's time to do a complete and comprehensive flush of the cooling system. This will be the first time I've ever done this bit of maintenance so have some questions.

1 - What is the best procedure to do a thorough flush and cleaning of the TA's cooling system? How do you purge air from the system after flushing?

2 - Would removing the radiators and flushing them with a garden hose accomplish anything that flushing them on the bike wouldn't?

3 - Are there Flushing Chemicals that are safe to use on motorcycle cooling systems and if so, are they effective or even really needed to do the best job of cleaning out a system?

4 - What coolant to use?

Not trying to open a Can o' Worms but I own a Chevrolet Diesel truck that uses Chevron Dex-Cool. In reading the label on the Dex-Cool container, it says "Excellent high-temperature aluminum protection" and "Free of Silicate, Phosphate, Nitrite, and Borate".

Seems like these are the most important things to consider with a coolant for use with motorcycles. Why should I pay Honda $9 a quart for what seems to me to be basically the same coolant, just pre-diluted with water?
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:49 PM   #6792
debaisley
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I just replaced my coolant , all I did was open up the drain screw , let it all come out . And then dumped the same amount of coolant into the radiator and called it good. Hope I didnt do anything wrong.
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:07 PM   #6793
showkey
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Location: Northern , IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalDave
. Why should I pay Honda $9 a quart for what seems to me to be basically the same coolant, just pre-diluted with water?
a

The Honda auto dealer has coolant that is sold in gallons ready to use that meets all Honda specs...aluminum protection, free of Silicate, Phosphate, Nitrite, and Borate and should be about $12.

Coolant is like oil threads but I would not risk dex-cool and my TA. The worms are now out .

The silicate free and Honda water pump seals is the important detail.

showkey screwed with this post 03-26-2009 at 01:45 PM
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Old 03-26-2009, 01:27 PM   #6794
Andy G
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Location: eastern Munich outback, Bavaria, Germany
Oddometer: 551
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalDave
1 - What is the best procedure to do a thorough flush and cleaning of the TA's cooling system? How do you purge air from the system after flushing?

2 - Would removing the radiators and flushing them with a garden hose accomplish anything that flushing them on the bike wouldn't?

3 - Are there Flushing Chemicals that are safe to use on motorcycle cooling systems and if so, are they effective or even really needed to do the best job of cleaning out a system?

4 - What coolant to use?
1 - see post #6608 and ravlevs followup. The air is purged by leaving the radiator cap open while running the engine for a few secs and reving it up a bit once or twice
2 - no
3 - no need to use any chemicals
4 - just make sure its suitable for aluminium engines

Cheers, Andy
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:09 PM   #6795
modrover OP
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6,795?

Hell yeah!!

I just wanted to nip in and say hello... to me old mates here!

Things are great with me. Cancer free for almost a year now! I still don't wish to ride again though... just sticking with the old Rovers. Well, until my kids are grown anyway!

Tanke care you guys... it warms my heart to see such TA talk going strong.

Ride safe,
Modrover
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