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Old 09-03-2011, 02:09 PM   #12151
mas335
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Location: Piedmont region NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgeliot View Post
Would making one good engine out of the two be more work than it's worth?
Sort of........ If I had at least seen the one engine run ( the one without the hole in the side case) I would feel much better about doing it and still might give it a try, I just hate wasteing a lot of time and a $100.00+ on gaskets, etc on a engine that might have problems.

The exact mileage is unknown (to me) but having disassembled the top end things look good, I may take a few measurements of the cylinders and pistons before making that call. The exact honesty of the person I bought it from is also unknown as he didn't bother telling me about the welded sprocket.

At the end of the day all I would have is a engine with a welded on CS sprocket which I would never feel right about selling to anyone.

I hate to tie up a complete bike with a engine that has a limited future, all I would use it for is to test carburators, jettings, etc. .
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:09 PM   #12152
radguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quint7 View Post
How long was the wait? I ordered one for one of my Zephyr's a week ago. They always say 4 weeks but most have shown up around 2 1/2 weeks after ordering.

I ordered it about four (4) weeks ago and was told at that time that it would pobably be six (6) weeks due to the custom order (lower front section) and it came in under that. This has much more firm padding also so I may have to go with an Alaska Butt pad to go along with it.


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Originally Posted by Rokoneer View Post
Outstanding! The bike looks great, and nice to know the bike is in good hands. I can sleep well now
Pete,
I absolutley love this motorcycle...! Tell Dad that it is here forever now and will be very well taken care of... I like to think it is in good hands and she obviously came from good hands.

Best,
Rob
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:54 AM   #12153
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Some photos from our today ride. Ukranian woods and military railway.









And here is military factory. We thought that it doesn't work for today, but found some guardians :)

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Old 09-04-2011, 10:36 AM   #12154
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pics took yesterday , transalp 650 (2006) with new luggage





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Old 09-04-2011, 10:41 AM   #12155
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turn signal stalks (and or XR650L part interchanges)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nomiles View Post
Thank you.
The XRL's fronts are only 2" long, I don't have the rears any more to measure, but the signal is the same size and shape, and the stalk shape and ribs also look the same. The rear stalks are longer than the fronts.

If fact I have notice that the turn signal and kill switches look the same as the XRL's though I would guess you would have change the plugs but maybe not?

I went the honda shop yesterday to get a new counter shaft seal only to find it was not available, however it is also the same size as the countershaft seal for the XR600 / XR650L.
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:30 PM   #12156
quint7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi View Post
I ordered it about four (4) weeks ago and was told at that time that it would pobably be six (6) weeks due to the custom order (lower front section) and it came in under that. This has much more firm padding also so I may have to go with an Alaska Butt pad to go along with it.


If you haven't ever had a Corbin ride it for 500 miles as is and see how the foam shapes. It is literally one of those "wow, it suddenly feels good" things with their seats. I use them on all of my bikes and the TA one is a used one but I assume it's standard as far as build. It has a much higher "back" at the rear of the drivers area where it transitions to the rear seat. I like it a lot, kinda like how my Gunfighter fits me on one of my Zephyrs.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:00 AM   #12157
Belgian Waffles
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Ever wonder how to bend a lower triple clamp?

It involves a Volkswagen...







Downward pressure applied here (using bodyweight):



And no forks seemed to have been bent in the process Alainmax would like to state that this is the only VW for the job, and no it is not for sale

Right now I've got some wiring to do on a front indicator light, some minor straightening to do in the handlebar mounts, and some welding/tapping of screws to secure my rear rack. Otherwise the front end is now straight I may have to inspect my front axle more closely as Mark suggested a bent front axle as the source of the pulsating front brake. And I gotta say, even after riding an RD03 for a few months, the TA engine feels great

I've got some more work to do to, but she's back on the road and again my main commuter and boy does it feel good Thank you all for the help on straightening out my front end!

BW
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:33 AM   #12158
wrryder
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Congratulations on getting your bike put back together! Now, shall we try and find the Alvord desert again?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
It involves a Volkswagen...







Downward pressure applied here (using bodyweight):



And no forks seemed to have been bent in the process Alainmax would like to state that this is the only VW for the job, and no it is not for sale

Right now I've got some wiring to do on a front indicator light, some minor straightening to do in the handlebar mounts, and some welding/tapping of screws to secure my rear rack. Otherwise the front end is now straight I may have to inspect my front axle more closely as Mark suggested a bent front axle as the source of the pulsating front brake. And I gotta say, even after riding an RD03 for a few months, the TA engine feels great

I've got some more work to do to, but she's back on the road and again my main commuter and boy does it feel good Thank you all for the help on straightening out my front end!

BW
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:06 AM   #12159
radguzzi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quint7 View Post
If you haven't ever had a Corbin ride it for 500 miles as is and see how the foam shapes. It is literally one of those "wow, it suddenly feels good" things with their seats.
This is my third Corbin although the first new to me. I like it well enough and the back rise is very cool, I liked that about the one that was on it when I bought the TA as well, glad that did not change...
The one I just changed was a softer foam as was one that I had on a Guzzi SP a few years ago, both of which were older builds. Perhaps Corbin changed the foam that they are using.. I dunno.

I had one made for my Son's LeMans several years ago and that too is too is fairly firm foam.

I'll do me best to get it broken in as quick as I can...

Best,
Rob


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Old 09-05-2011, 06:13 AM   #12160
mas335
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** I may have to inspect my front axle more closely as Mark suggested a bent front axle as the source of the pulsating front brake. **

BW, I may have said it could be the cause but there are other more common reasons. I can't remember all the details about your bike but one of the main things I would check is the rotor run out to see if it is running warped, you can't do this very well without gauge equipment but there is a fast test.

Have you had the rotor off since the crash? If so was the hub surface entirely clean of dirt before mounting it? Are the rotor bolts properly torqued?

The quick cheap test is to remove the rotor, make sure the sides are very clean and go back to the glass table top testing, lay it flat and see if it is warped. A feeler gauge slide all around the rotor should reveal any warping or bent that might have occured.

Not knowing what pads you are running or how many miles are on your bike I would check the rotor thickness in several areas. Under some braking conditions you can actually wear your disc and cause thickness variations which would definately casue pulsations.

Wrong pad compounds that do not transfer heat properly can produce "black spots" on the pads, a sort of glazing and this can also cause a pulsating feel.

Another thing to check are the pads, are they worned thin or is there oil or grease, etc on the surfaces?

Have you tested out the brakes since correcting the bent LTC, it sounded like you did?
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:38 AM   #12161
quint7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radguzzi View Post
This is my third Corbin although the first new to me. I like it well enough and the back rise is very cool, I liked that about the one that was on it when I bought the TA as well, glad that did not change...
The one I just changed was a softer foam as was one that I had on a Guzzi SP a few years ago, both of which were older builds. Perhaps Corbin changed the foam that they are using.. I dunno.

I had one made for my Son's LeMans several years ago and that too is too is fairly firm foam.

I'll do me best to get it broken in as quick as I can...

Best,
Rob



Definitely ride it as is for a good 500+ miles. The foam will eventually take the shape of your butt and that is when it will feel right. They fit like an actual saddle in my mind in that they mold to your shape and hold it so that when you sit down you just naturally "fit". Enjoy!
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:04 AM   #12162
Belgian Waffles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrryder View Post
Congratulations on getting your bike put back together! Now, shall we try and find the Alvord desert again?


I went there again on the RD03 earlier this year and the f*#king thing was a lake for the first time since the late 80's so I still haven't seen it. So yes - let's go find that damn desert sometime!


Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post

BW, I may have said it could be the cause but there are other more common reasons. I can't remember all the details about your bike but one of the main things I would check is the rotor run out to see if it is running warped, you can't do this very well without gauge equipment but there is a fast test.

Have you tested out the brakes since correcting the bent LTC, it sounded like you did?
Yes I have been testing and using them while commuting since the TA is back on the road. I will be checking these things this week. Thank you yet again!
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:16 PM   #12163
Menasco Pirate
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I'm sure Mark has this covered. I had a very bad vibration in the front AT brake when I picked the bike up in Colorado. The first thing I did before riding it home to SoCal was to remove all the leg fairings and check out the front end. To my surprise the 4 axle nuts that clamp the front axle to the bottom fork leg were loose. A quick fix but the problem continued but it was a bit better. I replaced the pads when I got home which again helped a bit but the problem continued and got worse with time and miles. The brake lever also felt mushy soft even though I bled the brakes several times. I should have tracked the rotors first thing! These were cheap after market "wavy" ones put on by the PO. After researching prices and options, I went with new Honda rotors from David Silver Spares in England. The price was good and They arrived in SoCal in 3 days! I checked the axle and it was true and put on new Honda XR pads. I also discovered the Honda rotors are handed left and right where the Chinese ones had no markings. Now the brakes are excellent, no mush and zero vibration.

I'm not sure if my vibration was from the loose fork clamp nuts allowing the rotor to get warped. A stack up issue with the chinese rotors caused the mushy feel due to these rotors not being handed correctly or some other poor design. I could see the rotor deflect when I pulled the brake lever!

For sale set of trick low mile after market wavy rotors, excellent shape. Will make your bike look modern!
Note: Will not sell to a friend!

Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
** I may have to inspect my front axle more closely as Mark suggested a bent front axle as the source of the pulsating front brake. **

BW, I may have said it could be the cause but there are other more common reasons. I can't remember all the details about your bike but one of the main things I would check is the rotor run out to see if it is running warped, you can't do this very well without gauge equipment but there is a fast test.

Have you had the rotor off since the crash? If so was the hub surface entirely clean of dirt before mounting it? Are the rotor bolts properly torqued?

The quick cheap test is to remove the rotor, make sure the sides are very clean and go back to the glass table top testing, lay it flat and see if it is warped. A feeler gauge slide all around the rotor should reveal any warping or bent that might have occured.

Not knowing what pads you are running or how many miles are on your bike I would check the rotor thickness in several areas. Under some braking conditions you can actually wear your disc and cause thickness variations which would definately casue pulsations.

Wrong pad compounds that do not transfer heat properly can produce "black spots" on the pads, a sort of glazing and this can also cause a pulsating feel.

Another thing to check are the pads, are they worned thin or is there oil or grease, etc on the surfaces?

Have you tested out the brakes since correcting the bent LTC, it sounded like you did?
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:42 AM   #12164
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles
Saw a similar issue on an AT. The button wouldn't stick on the left side without abusing it like you said. Solution was so take the switch apart and check that the tabs on the inside end of the button are correctly pushing the trapezoidal silicone/plastic bit that has metal tabs on it to complete the circuits. There's also a detent in there that may be sticking. If the tabs aren't protruding downward enough to catch that trapezoidal tab, you can try bending them down gently. Or solder a dab of solder to make the tab bigger (thought about this option but didn't end up doing it).

That's all on an AT, but I imagine it can't be too different on a TA... if so... my bad!

EDIT
I just reread your post and the more I think about having to push up and left/right, the more I think it would be the pins (downward facing inside the housing) that aren't catching the trapezoidal plastic plate (upward facing inside the housing). Assuming still that it's similar to an AT mechanism.

BW

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgeliot
Sounds to me like parts inside the switch are distorted out of shape, or are getting distorted when you tighten the switch clamps down on the handlebars. I'd look for that, but frankly I wouldn't spend too much time before giving up and just buying a new switch unit.
Thanks for the responses. I'll revisit the internals of the switch to see if I can make some subtle adjustments. @Topher: I've looked into new switch units. They're NLA from Honda and are after-market only (according to my research). I'm not quite ready to trust an after-market switch if the o.e. one will work (after maintenance). I'll save that as a last resort. Thanks though.
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:02 AM   #12165
showkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
The quick cheap test is to remove the rotor, make sure the sides are very clean and go back to the glass table top testing, lay it flat and see if it is warped. A feeler gauge slide all around the rotor should reveal any warping or bent that might have occured.

.

Wrong pad compounds that do not transfer heat properly can produce "black spots" on the pads, a sort of glazing and this can also cause a pulsating feel.

?
Another example of wrong pads (not TA)......prior owner installed aggressive aftermarket high performance pads. Severe rotor dished wear resulted, symptom soft lever, poor braking, prior owner replaced pads, added SS hose, replaced master, super bleed etc no change. Rotor must be flat and run perfectly true. This rotor would deflect with brake application. Note black color in dished area. (rust is from storage in the junk pile)

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