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Old 12-09-2011, 09:29 AM   #12586
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
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Quote:
My TA motor had only 13K miles on it when I did the swap.
Do you still have it? Planning to sell?
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:24 AM   #12587
tgeliot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Sorry but a SCOOTER (with knobbies, presumably)
Ooh, I'd pay money to see that!
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:31 AM   #12588
Ladder106
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Yes, I take PayPal
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:18 AM   #12589
Hotmamaandme
Wishing I was riding RTW
 
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Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Gardnerville NV
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Hey that Vespa is my avatar!


Ladder I found my dad a 89 with 26k on it needs some carb smoothing. Got some garage time available?
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:33 AM   #12590
O'Hooligan
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Sacramento, CA
Oddometer: 613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post

Apologies if that was insulting...t'was meant in fun. I knew having those little buggers in the garage would infect you at some point. Maybe keep the TA for when you return to larger wheels. You can store it at my place if you don't want to look at it.
Not doing any distance riding and am spoiled with the camper van now, just can't see myself sleeping in a tent anymore. Not when I can load my DR350 on the van, ride all day then have a hot meal, cold beer or hot tea and sleep in a nice comfy bed!

So kind of you to offer garage space for the TA, but am adamant about selling it.
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:39 AM   #12591
Phil
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Location: Beauvechain, Belgium.
Oddometer: 84
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Originally Posted by Backonthebike View Post
Can someone point me it the right direction.I've just removed my old 600V and replaced it with a 650. Somehow I have mixed up the dipsticks. Which is the right one for the 650 please.
LMAO nice one
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Old 12-09-2011, 12:14 PM   #12592
Ladder106
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Cory,

Any better description of carb "smoothing".

You're certainly welcome here, but it may be more fun (for me) to come to you.

PM me and we can pick a time and day.
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:22 PM   #12593
Hotmamaandme
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Location: Gardnerville NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Cory,

Any better description of carb "smoothing".

You're certainly welcome here, but it may be more fun (for me) to come to you.

PM me and we can pick a time and day.


Sweet PM incoming
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:38 AM   #12594
lukasteam
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Naperville,IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Do you still have it? Planning to sell?
Eeeer... have mixed feelings
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:39 PM   #12595
BLZBRKR65
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Houston, Tx.
Oddometer: 190
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukasteam View Post
I left TA wiring and CDI's on my NT650 motor swap. The only things I had to change was pulse sensors and rotor .I took the hawk's out and put TA instead. Also had to change stator harness connector from male to female or vice versa I don't remember right now and bike is at the winter storage right now , so I can't check, sorry.
Very easy swap, but wasn't worth it IMO . My TA motor had only 13K miles on it when I did the swap. I was looking for more power and especially torque gains from NT engine , but was very disappointed , it's pretty much the same and I even have jet kit in it. My gas mileage went down, but performance didn't increase that much. NT motor, I should say is more rev happy , but it vibrates more and my TA motor was just as good , so performance vise I didn't gain much...
Which carb did you use the NT650 or TA? How about the ignition coils? I am also using the TA wiring harness mated to the NT650 stator and pulse generator. I am still sorting out a hiccup w/c could be a carb issue or an electrical matter. Anybody have an NT650 CDI and carb in their parts bin?
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:19 AM   #12596
lukasteam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLZBRKR65 View Post
Which carb did you use the NT650 or TA? How about the ignition coils? I am also using the TA wiring harness mated to the NT650 stator and pulse generator. I am still sorting out a hiccup w/c could be a carb issue or an electrical matter. Anybody have an NT650 CDI and carb in their parts bin?
I used NT650 carbs. Ignition coils and the whole wiring is TA. You will have to replace pulse sensors and pulse rotor or what ever you call that thing . Thats where your glitches come from , pulse rotors on TA and NT are completely different . Did you re-jet TA carbs when you fitted them on NT motor ?
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:58 AM   #12597
BLZBRKR65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukasteam View Post
I used NT650 carbs. Ignition coils and the whole wiring is TA. You will have to replace pulse sensors and pulse rotor or what ever you call that thing . Thats where your glitches come from , pulse rotors on TA and NT are completely different . Did you re-jet TA carbs when you fitted them on NT motor ?
I tried using the TA stator and pulse generator but it was backfiring at certain RPM's and running poorly. so, i replaced the stator and pulse generator with the NT650 and it's running better. I have rejetted the TA carb with 40 pilots and 125 mains. I'm leaning towards an electrical issue since i have to ground the neutral clutch switch for it to crank over otherwise it will not spark and turn over. I replaced the clutch switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch, start/run switch with the same results. I haven't tried the NT650 carb, CDI, coils, regulator, wiring harness since i don't have those parts. Does anybody have those parts they want to part with?
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:38 AM   #12598
showkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLZBRKR65 View Post
I tried using the TA stator and pulse generator but it was backfiring at certain RPM's and running poorly. so, i replaced the stator and pulse generator with the NT650 and it's running better. I have rejetted the TA carb with 40 pilots and 125 mains. I'm leaning towards an electrical issue since i have to ground the neutral clutch switch for it to crank over otherwise it will not spark and turn over. I replaced the clutch switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch, start/run switch with the same results. I haven't tried the NT650 carb, CDI, coils, regulator, wiring harness since i don't have those parts. Does anybody have those parts they want to part with?


Since you must ground the neutral switch it sounds like an interlock wiring /diode issue. Page 17.0 in the Honda TA shop manual explains the system.

Page 18.0 shows the interlock and how it relates to engine cranking and the clutch switch plus neutral switch.

The interlock system has two diodes. The interlock controls both spark and cranking as they relate to neutral, clutch handle and shifter position. Most times interlock does not relate to reving and engine run quality but it is possible if CDI grounding is marginal. Unmodified bikes can have this problem when the side switch is faulty with a marginal corrode connection.

The side stand switch grounds the light green/yellow wire allowing spark.
Grounding the light green/yellow should allow spark at all times.

Does the side stand light work and neutral light work as expected?
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showkey screwed with this post 12-11-2011 at 07:28 PM
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:22 PM   #12599
BLZBRKR65
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[QUOTE=showkey;17493881]Since you must ground the neutral switch it sounds like an interlock wiring /diode issue. Page 17.0 in the Honda TA shop manual explains the system.

Page 18.0 shows the interlock and how it relates to engine cranking and the clutch switch plus neutral switch.

The interlock system has two diodes. The interlock controls both spark and cranking as they relate to neutral, clutch handle and shifter position. Most times interlock does not relate to reving and engine run quality but it is possible if CDI grounding is marginal. Unmodified bikes can have this problem when the side switch is faulty with a marginal corrode connection.

The side stand switch grounds the light green/yellow wire allowing spark.
Grounding the light green/yellow should allow spark at all times.

Does the side stand light work and neutral light work as expected?[/QUOTE

Thanks for pointing out the electrical schematics on the manual. So, are you saying that the diodes may be faulty? Sounds like your spot on regarding the side stand safety switch. I have noticed that the side stand light seems to come on/off at times intermittently. I have checked and cleaned the connections to no avail. I had replaced it too with a good known working unit with the same results. How do you ground the light green/yellow side stand switch? Just put them together or insert a wire between both terminals and secure them together? The neutral switch light works fine. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks!
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:12 PM   #12600
quint7
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Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 480
I'm just trying to follow along here with the Hawk/TA swap because I own an 89 Hawk and an 89 TA. I was just going through the service manuals I have on my computer and the Hawk only has one CDI if I am right. Sitting here armchairing it, it seems like getting a Hawk harness/CDI setup is the best way to complete this swap. Again, don't know anything other than that I've seen TA's with Hawk engines on here. If you think the service manual will help you can download it online from http://liucrative.com/hawkgtmanual.pdf
I also do know that the ignition rotor is completely different for the 2 bikes. I have a Factory Pro advancer that someday I'll get around to installing on the Hawk. Looks totally different than the TA one in the fiche on sites like Bike Bandit, etc.
Hope that helps and good luck!

(just saw that you posted on Hawkgt forum that you were looking to buy the whole Hawk setup)
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