ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Beasts
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-23-2012, 01:59 PM   #13666
ferretface
Adventurer
 
ferretface's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Wellington, NZ
Oddometer: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Backonthebike View Post
Think of it like dog years (1:7). Your CDIs are 175 years old. Probably time to change them out.
Well they were definitely a couple of old dogs. Two new genuine Honda CDI's have fixed the problem :)
__________________
Two Brits traveling overland through Canada, USA, Mexico, Central and South America by motorcycle.

http://heyivegotanidea.wordpress.com/
ferretface is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 03:53 PM   #13667
mikejohn
Beastly Adventurer
 
mikejohn's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Greenest state in the land of the free
Oddometer: 1,118
could someone point the way for me, I am planning to put the Hawk motor into a TA frame. anyone done this?
mikejohn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 04:11 PM   #13668
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
Ladder106's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,829
Search for posts from "Santa" on this thread.
Ladder106 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 05:45 PM   #13669
Backonthebike
Giddy up
 
Backonthebike's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Oddometer: 666
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejohn View Post
could someone point the way for me, I am planning to put the Hawk motor into a TA frame. anyone done this?
I did this by accident earlier this year. I thought I had bought a Transalp 650 motor on eBay to put into my 87 Transalp.
When it arrived I noticed that it had an additional, cast in rear upper engine mount tube, which was superfluous.
Notwithstanding, I followed ThunderDan's series of posts on putting a 650 Transalp motor into the old frame, and it all worked.
Particularly, the need to change the coolant plumbing.
Dan's posts are on this thread at page 504.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...39170&page=504
At the very end I had a few problems sorting out the appropriate pulse sensors and rotors, and I can't quite remeber what I finished up with.
I will have a look back through my posts, and see if I can find it for you.
The only other minor problem was that the radiator overflow bottle will need to be re, located, or you might want to risk cutting away a portion of that superfluous upper engine mount (I was too chicken, as I wasn't sure that I wouldn't accidentally open up the crankcase).
Oh, and I think I had to put the front sprocket on backwards to get it to align with the rear sprocket; you'll just have to do that by trial and error.
Cheers
Tim
__________________
(NSFW) http://timothydunn.com.au/
I have come to accept that my role in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
Backonthebike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 06:10 PM   #13670
Backonthebike
Giddy up
 
Backonthebike's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Oddometer: 666
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...1#post18255871

There, I found it! Use the 600 magnets and rotor in the Hawk motor, and they will talk nicely with the 2 CDI units.
Bon chance

Tim in Adelaide, Australia
__________________
(NSFW) http://timothydunn.com.au/
I have come to accept that my role in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
Backonthebike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2012, 06:11 PM   #13671
Belgian Waffles
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 870
Well here's something interesting...

Went to install some new EBC FA69 HH pads today and something didn't work out right. Seems the caliper mounting bracket is getting in the way of my disk with the new pads installed. Pics below. Disk thickness is 5mm, and I showed in blue where the disk comes into the caliper when mounted.







The old pads (not HH) were thinner as they were more worn, so this wasn't an issue. Can someone confirm that the pad thickness for a new set should be 10mm? Just want to make sure they're the right size first of all.

Second picture shows the two places that get in the way of the disk when mounted. Third picture (top view) shows that the disk would have to be 3mm to fit into place (as is).

Next, my only guess as to why the caliper doesn't fit anymore has to do with the spacing between the caliper and the mounting bracket (circled in orange in the first picture). Can someone tell me if this space is normal? (Yes, the bolt is tight, but the threads are on the caliper, not the bracket, so it can float.)

I suppose if the space is not normal it means the bracket is bent, which could be yet another plausible source of my issues? Thoughts?
__________________
Always chase your dreams. Even if you don't catch them, you'll have a hell of a time trying.

Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
Past: 1999 KLR 650, 1990 Tengai 650

Belgian Waffles screwed with this post 09-24-2012 at 06:18 PM
Belgian Waffles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 12:14 AM   #13672
Schelbi
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Schelbi's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Beeghof / Germany
Oddometer: 186
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
Went to install some new EBC FA69 HH pads today and something didn't work out right. Seems the caliper mounting bracket is getting in the way of my disk with the new pads installed. Pics below. Disk thickness is 5mm, and I showed in blue where the disk comes into the caliper when mounted.







The old pads (not HH) were thinner as they were more worn, so this wasn't an issue. Can someone confirm that the pad thickness for a new set should be 10mm? Just want to make sure they're the right size first of all.

Second picture shows the two places that get in the way of the disk when mounted. Third picture (top view) shows that the disk would have to be 3mm to fit into place (as is).

Next, my only guess as to why the caliper doesn't fit anymore has to do with the spacing between the caliper and the mounting bracket (circled in orange in the first picture). Can someone tell me if this space is normal? (Yes, the bolt is tight, but the threads are on the caliper, not the bracket, so it can float.)

I suppose if the space is not normal it means the bracket is bent, which could be yet another plausible source of my issues? Thoughts?
Is your caliper floating on the bracket easily? On the pic it looks like the caliper is moved all the way out. If something is bend I don't think it can still move.
__________________
1975 Honda CB550 Four 1980 Honda CX500 dual sport conversion
1983 Honda XLV750R 1983 Honda XL600R
1983 Honda CB985FII Bol d'Or 1983 MZ ETZ250 sidecar
1985 Honda XL600LM 1988 Honda NX650
1989 Honda XL600V Transalp 1992 Honda XRV750 SW-Motec 1995 Husqvarna TE610
Schelbi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 04:56 AM   #13673
mas335
xendurist
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,853
BW, The pads are 10mm thick.

Like Schelbi said the bracket should easily be pushed to the outward direction to clear both pads, this is the "float" that I mentioned earlier.

If the mounting bracket will not move all the way out to let the rotor slip between the pads then you have some kind of issue with the pivot pin assembly.
__________________
Transalps
mas335 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 05:41 AM   #13674
ChrisUK
Studly Adventurer
 
ChrisUK's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: God's Own County
Oddometer: 576
Link to Central Asia ('Stans). Alti-Russia and Mongolia RR on a Transalp is at http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828973

Take a look?

C
ChrisUK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 03:04 PM   #13675
Belgian Waffles
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schelbi View Post
Is your caliper floating on the bracket easily? On the pic it looks like the caliper is moved all the way out. If something is bend I don't think it can still move.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
Like Schelbi said the bracket should easily be pushed to the outward direction to clear both pads, this is the "float" that I mentioned earlier.

If the mounting bracket will not move all the way out to let the rotor slip between the pads then you have some kind of issue with the pivot pin assembly.
Took a closer look at the two float pins. The top one works just fine, but the second doesn't float. Something is stuck, but I'm not sure which parts are supposed to move... Can someone confirm my thoughts that the sleeve (part #10) should slide through the circled bracket tab on the caliper itself? Such that rubber boots on parts #14 flex like what happens on the upper float pin?



One step closer...
__________________
Always chase your dreams. Even if you don't catch them, you'll have a hell of a time trying.

Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
Past: 1999 KLR 650, 1990 Tengai 650
Belgian Waffles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 03:15 PM   #13676
Belgian Waffles
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 870
Did a bit of looking around on the subject...

Quote:
This problem, when it cropped up at my bike, I thought had been caused by lack of maintenance (and surely it was), but since other Transalp owners reported the same problem, I think it should be treated here. The front brake of the Transalp is a floating caliper brake, and the problem is a bolt going tight in his sleeve; this one, or, since model year '90, this one. You may not notice it while driving, but when changing the brakepads, you may find, that the new pads won't fit. In my case, the bolt sat so tight, I couldn't loosen it; the complete saddle had to be replaced. So, ever when you change the brakepads, check if this bolt moves slightly in the sleeve. If not, dismount it carefully (be aware of these rubber seals, they can easily be destroyed!), clean the bolt, polish it with some polishing canvas, if necessary. In any case, check it and grease it with special brake grease or copper paste (don't use normal grease, it wouldn't stand the temperatures).
Source: http://www.ta-deti.de/ta/knownproblems.html#brake
__________________
Always chase your dreams. Even if you don't catch them, you'll have a hell of a time trying.

Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
Past: 1999 KLR 650, 1990 Tengai 650
Belgian Waffles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 03:39 PM   #13677
mas335
xendurist
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
Oddometer: 1,853
I thought I covered that in my post # 13640?

" Make sure that the caliper pivot bolt and the caliper bracket bolt is cleaned and that the grease inside of the recess areas isn't dried and crusty causing the caliper bolts stick, those areas need to be clean to allow the caliper to "float" over the rotor, if it doesn't you are flexing the rotor when you apply the brakes. "
__________________
Transalps
mas335 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 03:43 PM   #13678
Belgian Waffles
Studly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 870
Quote:
Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
I thought I covered that in my post # 13640?

" Make sure that the caliper pivot bolt and the caliper bracket bolt is cleaned and that the grease inside of the recess areas isn't dried and crusty causing the caliper bolts stick, those areas need to be clean to allow the caliper to "float" over the rotor, if it doesn't you are flexing the rotor when you apply the brakes. "
You sure did, and I overlooked it because I saw the top one was floating and I wasn't focusing on that. I've never gone this in depth with this so I didn't realize what I missed and made quite an obvious mistake.

Taking a look under those boots revealed a lot of corrosion. Now working on how to remove it without breaking the rubber seals...
__________________
Always chase your dreams. Even if you don't catch them, you'll have a hell of a time trying.

Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
Past: 1999 KLR 650, 1990 Tengai 650

Belgian Waffles screwed with this post 09-25-2012 at 03:50 PM
Belgian Waffles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 05:23 PM   #13679
2bold2getold
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
Oddometer: 1,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
You sure did, and I overlooked it because I saw the top one was floating and I wasn't focusing on that. I've never gone this in depth with this so I didn't realize what I missed and made quite an obvious mistake.

Taking a look under those boots revealed a lot of corrosion. Now working on how to remove it without breaking the rubber seals...
Don't worry about overlooking things that you don't have experience with and don't understand. We all do it.

The rubber boots might pull out in one piece if you're carefull. If not they are common on a lot of calipers, both bikes and cars. It's function is to just keep dirt and water out,so as to keep the pins sliding. You might even use a rubber tube, hose, condom or what ever you have, in an emergency.
2bold2getold is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2012, 06:31 PM   #13680
happyclam
Gnarly Adventurer
 
happyclam's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Trapped in Maryland
Oddometer: 105
For starters...how am I supposed to catch up to this thread when you guys keep adding a page or 2 every time i check it out? Need more advice... Read some where changing to #40 slow jet is the way to go. My choke sucks and takes forever to warm up.Do most of you have the stock jetting? Thanks again. Jeff. Anybody looking for a vstrom?
happyclam is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 05:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014