Show us your TransAlp modifications!

[Rob 110]

bashplate made this weekend

its 10mm HDPE, £30 for 1000x500mm only need 600x500, so enough offcut for the CCM404.
http://www.directplasticsonline.co.u...et/Black/10mm/

its a tough plastic which is hard to break, but does flex slightly
so i've doubled it up on the vulnerable sump with 10mm Acetal, tougher/hard/doesn't flex but 3 times the price (i had an offcut lying around)

i've made these for 3 or 4 dirtbikes over the years and they are cheap, light, strong and easy to make for DIY
you can cut with a jigsaw and heat it to bend with a heatgun. I have a strip heater and table saw so easier for me

cos the transalp sump hangs level with the bottom of the frame, i've spaced it by 15mm to allow for flex and have the Acetal in that area
(i bust a transalp sump in Morocco which had an Africa Twin 4mm ali bashplate)

Transalp bashplates are £160 for 3mm ali (grade not specified so won't be the Aircraft alloy Dural)
local fabricators wouldn't make me one for less than that so DIY

bit of faff and numerous refitting but....




on the bike (mudguard was £25 delivered off an Tenere)




had a thrash round the field finally and it was fun, needs a big space, think i'll lower the gearing!
fairing next weekend......

[Belgian Waffles]

Originally Posted by Dr E

Here is a side view with the inverted brake set up (that was so easy even a caveman can do it)!

Advantage of the inverted brake setup? Just clearance for brush/rocks?

[Belgian Waffles]

Originally Posted by Iron_Floyd

Fairings repair:

Some plastic parts ware missing, left somewhere on the road, so I had to rebuilt it.

Beautiful fix Floyd! What kind of compound did you use to rebuild the plastics?? I think a lot of us here would be happy to get ahold of some of that...

[NorCalTA]

Originally Posted by Dr E

There was one significant issue in trying to do the valves, the center plug on the stator cover has seized itself into the housing to the point, that when I was trying to turn it with an allen wrench, a section of the plug fractured off in a metal chip. Nothing that made it fail, just a chip from the surface...so at some point I will be ordering a new one to replace this. Aluminum is so easy to gall in place its not surprising.

Eric

Have a look at this post I made regarding a fix for that problem. You'll have to email the guy to see if he's still making the product.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=7974

[Iron_Floyd]

Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles

Beautiful fix Floyd! What kind of compound did you use to rebuild the plastics?? I think a lot of us here would be happy to get ahold of some of that...

Thank to all of you :)

I've used a fiberglass like this guy on youtube.

Great instructions there. Fiberglassing part starting on 2:50.

[Dr E]

Originally Posted by NorCalTA

Eric

Have a look at this post I made regarding a fix for that problem. You'll have to email the guy to see if he's still making the product.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=7974

I totally forgot about this little nugget and now remember at the time I read it and thought "???" now the grasshopper is wiser and understands this issue!

[Ladder106]

A bit of Anti-seize on the threads and just a bit of grease on the O-ring will keep this thing from welding itself to the case.

Also beware of Crafsman allen sockets. I've measure quite a few sets (to the odd glances of the salesman) with calipers and found them all to be a few tenths of a mm small. Snap-on ($$) is your friend here. The craftsman product will almost always round off a stubborn allen...particularly bad when it's as visible as this one.

[Dr E]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

A bit of Anti-seize on the threads and just a bit of grease on the O-ring will keep this thing from welding itself to the case.

Also beware of Crafsman allen sockets. I've measure quite a few sets (to the odd glances of the salesman) with calipers and found them all to be a few tenths of a mm small. Snap-on ($$) is your friend here. The craftsman product will almost always round off a stubborn allen...particularly bad when it's as visible as this one.

Well, I just got through with emails to Frank and it turns out he has a distributor in San Francisco that will be sending them to me. A very nice turn of events and even nicer to get that sill stuck plug out of my case. I was not looking forward to always having to remove valve covers to make adjustments.

[locorider]

See that in the original position, you are pushing. In the inverted position, you are pulling. I dont know if there is any advantage, other than if you push hard, the brake rod might tend to bend and absorb the energy...

Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles

Advantage of the inverted brake setup? Just clearance for brush/rocks?

[locorider]

Another view

[locorider]

Good to know!

Originally Posted by Ladder106

A bit of Anti-seize on the threads and just a bit of grease on the O-ring will keep this thing from welding itself to the case.

Also beware of Crafsman allen sockets. I've measure quite a few sets (to the odd glances of the salesman) with calipers and found them all to be a few tenths of a mm small. Snap-on ($$) is your friend here. The craftsman product will almost always round off a stubborn allen...particularly bad when it's as visible as this one.

[Dr E]

Carlos, looking at the mechanism in close detail and how the cam applies force to the pads, either a push or pull fashion gives equal loading, as that is based on the fulcrum at the pedal. However I did notice that you had applied a rubber coating over the arm to prevent rubbing and banging on the swing arm as I can see that under a vertical or "bouncing load" you could hit the arm and damage the paint. I just bent mind a tad bit further out and if I hear any banging or see and damage I will coat mine as well. Here is a cool older modification I found of how a racer configured his bike. Seems this idea and worry about damaging the lever arm hanging down has been around for awhile.



I still liked how you did it and feel comfortable with using a reverse from the OEM configuration.

As I did not post up pictures above, here are two quick snaps taken this morning before work:



Now its like the jigsaw puzzle in making sure I get all the pieces back in the right order I took them off!

[Dudley]

Originally Posted by NorCalTA

I've spoken with Rick, the owner of Cogent Dynamics, by phone at length about his shocks. If I ever get another TA, I'll definitely be putting a Cogent rear shock on it. Lifetime warranty and made in the USA by a family-owned business of motosports enthusiasts is good enuf fo me .

Rick did do an excellent job on my T/A's forks so I'll stick with Cogent when I order out the shock. I plan on overhauling the rear suspension links at the same time.
Dudley

[locorider]

Originally Posted by Iron_Floyd

Thank to all of you :)

I've used a fiberglass like this guy on youtube.

Great instructions there. Fiberglassing part starting on 2:50.

I use epoxy, like West System. Is harder than resin and fiberglass. I did the mods on my bike on 2008-2009 and everything is in place, no cracks. With their pump system, you dont have to measure. Down side: expensive.

[locorider]

Originally Posted by locorider

Hi there! Newcomer here!
I don't know if someone had mentioned it, but the center stand shown in the thread (further down)looks much like my 1973 Honda CL350 stand. Vintage Hondas had two stands and this one looks pretty much like it. I'll measure it and get back to you all, so that someone checks it and see if it might fit!

I just bought a Transalp, with 14k miles 2 weeks ago and it is still in the mainland. I'll keep it for a year or two to do some riding and then bring it down.

My first post, August 29, 2006, Post 12445...and I've been enjoying it since!