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Old 03-29-2013, 10:06 AM   #14446
Belgian Waffles
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 870
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Rowley View Post
Yes, I do. But I wanted J to develop the mechanical side of his engineering mind.
I had one of them digital things but it got wet. Now i've got film until i can afford a decent dslr. Which won't be for a while.
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:19 PM   #14447
Z_HARSH
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Plastic Rear Fender???

Well, I hope to test ride it this weekend after the AT swing-arm and rear disc conversion, and 47mm WP forks installation. I will get some pictures and posts up one of these days, been too busy wrenching lately.

The hope is to put on a plastic rear fender off a dirtbike, any suggestions on what might match up best?

I pulled the one off my DRZ, it actually looks like that with some major cutting and a little reshaping it might work.

My wife's CRF 230's isn't close and neither is my pop's XR650R's rear fender.

I think I saw one post where they used a white Husky fender and maybe someone else said they use an XR fender, but it is hard to go back and find the posts.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:32 PM   #14448
Rob 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z_HARSH View Post
I think I saw one post where they used a white Husky fender
Any help here would be greatly appreciated!
thats what i used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UFO-HUSKY-...item3ef921bab0

takes a bit of cutting and bodgery. i shortened it and i cut the end of the seat a bit.
full length:


shortened:


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Old 03-29-2013, 04:23 PM   #14449
2bold2getold
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: DFW TX
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Rear Fender

Here's one that fits pretty good. I spread the sub frame a little with a jack and pulled it up in there. Think they called it a UFO universal. This one I think... http://www.ebay.com/itm/UFO-Universa...98b84a&vxp=mtr Wasn't going to post this untill I got it finished, but since you asked. Your sub frame may be different, I think this one has an add on RD04 sub frame.




2bold2getold screwed with this post 03-29-2013 at 04:38 PM
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Old 03-29-2013, 05:44 PM   #14450
Belgian Waffles
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Originally Posted by 2bold2getold View Post
Here's one that fits pretty good. I spread the sub frame a little with a jack and pulled it up in there. Think they called it a UFO universal. This one I think...]
Looks good. Is the plate going to mount directly to it?
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:14 PM   #14451
Motoswami
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Re-assembling cables into the twist grip

Back about post #12660, Mas335 replied thusly to Quint who was experiencing a slow-returning twistgrip following installation of new cables:

Are you sure your return cable is not running under and/or behind the white nylon guide block in the throttle control? This will prevent the throttle action from working right and make the return cable have lots of drag because the cable is being pinched.

Getting these cable wires routing misaligned in the throttle control is easy to do and a bit tricky to get them where they belong while trying to assemble the two control body shells.


"A bit tricky" is a masterful understatement! Several years back I thought I had the solution -- all that seemed necessary to get the white nylon wedgie and cables to slip together properly was to have the carb-side cable ends really loose. Tonight I musta assembled/reassembled the clamshell halves of the twistgrip/throttle drum a dozen times, and each time got the same bound-up result. Anybody got a simple trick for holding the cables in their proper un-bound routing as things go together? Anyone just give up and replace the entire twistgrip with a simpler design?

Pete
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:30 PM   #14452
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoswami View Post
Back about post #12660, Mas335 replied thusly to Quint who was experiencing a slow-returning twistgrip following installation of new cables:

Are you sure your return cable is not running under and/or behind the white nylon guide block in the throttle control? This will prevent the throttle action from working right and make the return cable have lots of drag because the cable is being pinched.

Getting these cable wires routing misaligned in the throttle control is easy to do and a bit tricky to get them where they belong while trying to assemble the two control body shells.

"A bit tricky" is a masterful understatement! Several years back I thought I had the solution -- all that seemed necessary to get the white nylon wedgie and cables to slip together properly was to have the carb-side cable ends really loose. Tonight I musta assembled/reassembled the clamshell halves of the twistgrip/throttle drum a dozen times, and each time got the same bound-up result. Anybody got a simple trick for holding the cables in their proper un-bound routing as things go together? Anyone just give up and replace the entire twistgrip with a simpler design?

Pete
Replaced mine with an "08 XR650L because I had one and it was newer, but I think it's the same.
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Old 03-29-2013, 06:43 PM   #14453
2bold2getold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
Looks good. Is the plate going to mount directly to it?
Yep, gonna make a little bracket to mount the plate and inspection sticker on the fender.

Taped on....
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Old 03-30-2013, 02:43 AM   #14454
mas335
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Hey Pete, I take the shortest route to solving this problem by loosen both of the cable ends from the carb first, that allows for lots of "slack" in those cables at the throttle end. I also use a dental tool to fish the cable in position before closing up the throttle control body. Sometimes these cables seem to just fall into place but it rarely happens for me.

So how is that bike coming along?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Motoswami View Post
Back about post #12660, Mas335 replied thusly to Quint who was experiencing a slow-returning twistgrip following installation of new cables:

Are you sure your return cable is not running under and/or behind the white nylon guide block in the throttle control? This will prevent the throttle action from working right and make the return cable have lots of drag because the cable is being pinched.

Getting these cable wires routing misaligned in the throttle control is easy to do and a bit tricky to get them where they belong while trying to assemble the two control body shells.

"A bit tricky" is a masterful understatement! Several years back I thought I had the solution -- all that seemed necessary to get the white nylon wedgie and cables to slip together properly was to have the carb-side cable ends really loose. Tonight I musta assembled/reassembled the clamshell halves of the twistgrip/throttle drum a dozen times, and each time got the same bound-up result. Anybody got a simple trick for holding the cables in their proper un-bound routing as things go together? Anyone just give up and replace the entire twistgrip with a simpler design?

Pete
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:36 AM   #14455
Motoswami
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@ Mas335

Thanks for the dental tool suggestion. I'll try it again today when the light is brighter and my eyes are rested.

"That bike" (the infamous RallyAlp) is taking a sabbatical, put on hold while life gets in the way.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:55 PM   #14456
Z_HARSH
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Thanks guys!

Rob 110, I love what you have done with the bike, it sounds like the husky fender won't be much easier than the DRZ though. The rally fairing you made is awesome!

2bold2getold, that does fit nicely it looks, thanks for posting early!

Decisions decisions........
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Old 03-31-2013, 07:34 AM   #14457
Motoswami
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throttle cables binding -- the answer!

Figgered it out. The problem I was having, as I tried to assemble the two half shells of the twistgrip around the throttle drum, was keeping the cables headed in the correct track as they slid down around the nylon guide block. It was like sticking limp spaghetti into a door lock; invariably, the "pull" (return) cable would slip under the block, and get trapped and bind inside the two shells when the two screws were fully tightened.

When in difficulty, ask for help.

This time it was in the form of the smiling SO, who truly loves to be useful in the garage when I need a third hand (she's a keeper!). I properly attached the lower ends of the cable sheaths onto the side of the carbs, but did not insert their knobby ends into the pull drum that opens the butterflies. Instead, I left the little knobs loose and accessible so that, as I fed the cables around the nylon guide and eased the two shells of the twistgrip together, her gentle pulling on the lower ends of the cables kept them sliding down into the grip exactly where they needed to reside without becoming caught.

It only took one attempt to get it right

Boy, did I ever make her a good cup of coffee this morning.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:54 AM   #14458
Rob 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z_HARSH View Post
Rob 110, I love what you have done with the bike, it sounds like the husky fender won't be much easier than the DRZ though. The rally fairing you made is awesome!
thanks mate
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #14459
Belgian Waffles
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If anyone has an extra usable front rotor, I might take it off your hands. I got a good one from Mark a while back, but unfortunately warped it a bit before I fixed the cause properly. I'm in no rush, so if anyone has an extra sometime from a front end conversion or other projects, let me know what you want for it.

Thanks,

Jordan
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:41 PM   #14460
Z_HARSH
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I have parts, since you asked...

I have a front rotor, and a ton of other stuff for that matter.



It looks like the used rotors are going for 25-45 Euros in Germany:

http://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_nkw=t...at=0&_from=R40

And new ones here for $80:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2005558...Types&var=sbar

Not sure what a fair ADV price might be, but how does somewhere in the ballpark of $35-40 sound? 14,000 mi on the odo so they should have plenty left in 'em. If you get around to wanting it of course.





Since were on the subject, I also have an AT RD04 skid-plate I decided not to use. It's not all shinny so it will be a good price.







And on the skid-plate subject, I see quite a few of these SW-MOTECH ones:

http://www.adventuremotorcycleparts....1-016-100.html

What do they sit on, they don't have shims or something to take the force on the frame do they? My assumption is that it sets on the motor that protrudes below the frame, correct?
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OHV AREAS ARE DISAPPEARING& WE NEED YOUR HELP
Go to COHVCO.ORG to purchase an SOS sticker and become a FRIEND OF COHVCO
Then post a picture of the sticker on your OHV and post it on COHVCO's Facebook page to show your support,
SPREAD THE WORD, SAVE OUR SPORT!!
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