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Old 04-29-2013, 07:40 PM   #14656
Belgian Waffles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galba View Post


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Are those AT lights? They look like they're smaller but maybe it's just because it's a different fairing.
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Current: 1989 Honda Transalp, 2006 Scorpa TY125F trials
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:34 PM   #14657
Galba
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[QUOTEAre those AT lights? They look like they're smaller but maybe it's just because it's a different fairing.][/QUOTE]

are not AT,but Aprilia Rally,

http://www.dirtbikerider.us/index.cf...cture_ID=46007
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Old 04-30-2013, 02:03 AM   #14658
thepoddo
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Those are the same headlights used on the first generation Aprilia Pegaso and every Aprilia Tuareg model
You can find something used or buy a new one from Boano

They look cool, but light output is rather sucky

thepoddo screwed with this post 04-30-2013 at 02:29 AM
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:13 PM   #14659
dualdogdave
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Location: Santa Cruz Mountians
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Transalp Bikini Crash Plate

Quote:
Originally Posted by raoulserban View Post
@dualdogdave- Can you please make some more photos of that bikini engine guard! look nice and i would make one for my Tranny


Here is a look at my Bikini Crash Plate.





Never intended for extreene duty...........






Just enough to keep that occasional stone from kicking up off the front wheel at speed.







I have been running this design on both of my TAs with never a problem.










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Santa Cruz Coastal Mountains

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Transalps and other cool bikes spotted in my travels.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:21 PM   #14660
HEKOT
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If anyone interested, Touratech for TA650:

Large clickable images are here: http://transalp-club.ru/forum/13-211...-16-1298469473









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Old 04-30-2013, 11:18 PM   #14661
TRBaron
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Without the key corner angles it seems to me that its really a lot of guesswork to get it to fit correctly.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:00 AM   #14662
Galba
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Paramani Acerbis

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Old 05-01-2013, 03:03 AM   #14663
Galba
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acerbis handguards

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Old 05-01-2013, 09:18 AM   #14664
Z_HARSH
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[QUOTE=HEKOT;21304154]If anyone interested, Touratech for TA650:

Large clickable images are here: http://transalp-club.ru/forum/13-211...-16-1298469473


THANKS A MILLION!!!! Perfect timing, I need to start thinking about this!!!
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:21 PM   #14665
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Custom Fairing...an adventure in composites

Well it has been one hell of a wild ride. But the custom fairing is coming together. I started with steel sign posts left over from my mom’s campaign yard signs and bent them up into just the perfect shape. With a hammer a chuck of railroad tie that a tenant left me, and some wrenches and pliers I first bent a chunk to mate up to the side of the tank and duplicated it. Then after staring at it for a long time and dreaming I came up with the bottom bend to cover the radiator and create a scoop in the front for good airflow. I didn’t want it to come down and cover the front cylinder like the stock one or the Italian one.

From there, I took the bike to my pops’ garage and we carefully shaped the wire figured out the other bends, cut, welded, grinded, bent, cut, welded, grinded, bent, cut, welded and grinded on it until it was even and symmetrical from all angles. That was no small task to say the least. It probably took the two of us about a week and a half every spare free moment outside of the office to construct.

 photo P1000873_zps898d9371.jpg

 photo P1000874_zps247c90bb.jpg

This is about half way through when we were using welding rods to help figure out the outside lines.

After we tweaked and torsioned it into near perfection, we bent welded in an interior piece of rod for somewhere to attach the cloth, a fleece blanket, and not mess up our show surface. From there we covered the fleece with fiberglass resin. We messed up though and didn’t put enough catalyst in and we played hell trying to get it to set up. We stuck a heat lamp on it, and sat there for hours with heat guns trying to get it stiff enough to be able to do the body work. It probably set us back three days, but such is life.

We put some pieces on the inside to strengthen it and finally got it to a workable state and started in the body putty.
 photo P1000882_zps2c8c0aa9.jpg

 photo P1000883_zps533eeefc.jpg

 photo P1000885_zps8b087d81.jpg

 photo P1000886_zpsad15517e.jpg

We kept having to cut out sections of uncured resin and fill it in with body putty. After about a week and a half of every spare moment for both me and my dad working on it shaping it, sanding it and forming it we finally got it to where you could close your eyes and run your hands over it in any direction and not feel any bumps, waves, or divots.

 photo P1000896_zps7c65b072.jpg
 photo P1000900_zpsb27b3546.jpg
But when we put it back on the bike the sides didn’t line up with the tank and it looked like crap, so, we chopped out the sides, ground down the high spots on the inside and fitted it back together. Took some cardboard and fiber glassed it in and cut out a section to raise it up and give it the right curves.
 photo P1000898_zps96afcec7.jpg

After another week or so of shaping the sides to perfection on the bike and using up about 4 liters of body putty in total we got it to a near perfect state and sprayed it with black lacquer paint. We did this to give it a heavy shine to see any minor imperfections in it. After a fixing a few more minor issues it was time for the fun part.

We carefully went around the edges with aluminum tape with grate forethought on bringing it out on key corners so as to be able to pop the mold off it but still give us nice finished corners.

 photo P1000903_zps34233672.jpg

Then we put about 8 cotes of car wax using three different kinds my dad had laying around so as to not have the mold stick to the plug we has so painstakingly shaped. We covered the holes for the headlight and secured a thin piece of wood down the middle. We knew that there was no way we could to a one-piece mold with the complex shape and get it out, so this piece of wood was to create a tab to bolt the two pieces together.
 photo P1000906_zps52b90eb8.jpg

 photo P1000905_zpsf3fd04a7.jpg

The next part was scary to say the least. After the troubles we had with the resin the first time we mixed it a little too hot and it started setting up a little too soon. It was a struggle getting it all glassed up and covered before the resin hardened, and having a heat lamp on it didn’t help. But we got it and then we trimmed the edges while it was still a little gummy and then popped it off the plug. The liquor paint was probably not the best idea because the vapors from the resin ate it away a little but it was not too big of a deal. It was stressful to say the leat, but successful to say the least.

 photo P1000909_zpsb99566ab.jpg

The aluminum tape around the edges gave us a nice lip to attach the vacuum bag to the mold.

Last night after work we put the first half back on the plug, spread some body putty to take up a couple small gaps in the front, masked the bottom half and prepped it to do the second half of the mold.
 photo P1000911_zps15b41c9a.jpg

 photo P1000913_zps0ebac6a5.jpg

We also learned our lesson from the previous night and carefully pre-cut the fiberglass pieces just right slitting them to make the bends. We also turned on the fan and cooled the garage down and more carefully measured out the resin and catalyst. The second half went on much more smoothly.

 photo P1000916_zps4385a36a.jpg

 photo P1000917_zpse43e5860.jpg

It was a little more difficult to pop off the plug than the first half but we got it off and it looked pretty good.

 photo P1000918_zps2717418d.jpg
 photo P1000921_zps582fcecd.jpg

The only problem is the flange to attach the two halves was not straight out at 90 degrees so it is sitting in our frame a little crooked but that is for easier access I figure. My dad isn’t happy about it so we will see if it is worth fixing.

 photo P1000919_zps34ff54a4.jpg

But yesterday I spent another $260 bucks on material for vacuum bagging, carbon fiber reinforcement, fiberglass cloth and the expensive one $120 for just the epoxy resin. I would say I am about $350-$400 deep in materials for the fairing alone. But, it won’t be like anyone else’s that is for sure, unless I decide to sell one.

Now I need to fix up the lip around the mold so we can hopefully get an airtight seal so as to suck out any extra resin and keep the final product as light as possible. But before I do the final piece I will need to practice a little so I am going to work on making a mold for morph of the rear part of a KLR side cover into the front part of the TA side cover and then practice vacuum bagging it. Then I will make a prototype of the fairing with the cheaper resin before making the final piece. The work continues……..



By the way, I am about to the point to where I need to either clear out some parts or build some more shelves in my shed. It appears I finally have an acceptable Flea-Market post: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=883291 I’ll do 15% off all listed parts (first come first serve of course) if I receive the funds by Friday night and can ship it out this weekend. Hopefully this is not against the rules but I guess I will find out if it is.


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Old 05-01-2013, 01:33 PM   #14666
Jim Rowley
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Nice job Zach.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:20 PM   #14667
locorider
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Nice? Great job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Rowley View Post
Nice job Zach.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:41 PM   #14668
HEKOT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z_HARSH View Post
THANKS A MILLION!!!! Perfect timing, I need to start thinking about this!!!
Unbelievable! I started thinking about fairing!
THANKS A MILLION back to you! :)
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:47 PM   #14669
locorider
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These are the pics of the bashplate I made (almost) for my bike:

It began with a discarded 3/16 inch sign. The measurement is a little wider than the frame as you may see in the pictures.





The steel tabs near the shock will be the attachment point in the back.







I added steel clamps and pieces of rubber to dampen noise vibration.





Bending was made by pure elbow grease...with a heavy hammer over a solid c-channel with ear protection...


After bending and fixing it to the bike, I made cardboard pattern for the sides. You'll notice that the front part is wider than the frame, but the purpose is to protect as much as possible the engine and exhaust.



I didnt like the kind of bashplate that cover everything, that wraps around the engine, because dirt will go in, no matter what. But it has to go out too...

The soldering was made locally and it cost $90.00.

I laid out the holes pattern and started drilling and here it is...



Some porn...



It gives you a stable platform for the jack.

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1989 Honda XL600V Transalp, slightly modified!

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locorider screwed with this post 05-01-2013 at 05:00 PM
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:52 PM   #14670
HEKOT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBaron View Post
Without the key corner angles it seems to me that its really a lot of guesswork to get it to fit correctly.
You're right. Two angles or diagonals required. I'll update the info a bit later.
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