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Old 05-13-2013, 04:11 PM   #14746
thepoddo
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P3ia View Post
Finally done modding my Tranny.

that paintjob really make it shine

can you post a pic of the front?
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:41 AM   #14747
P3ia
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can you post a pic of the front?
Transalps do not look pretty from that direction...

(No bags on this pic)

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Old 05-14-2013, 04:41 AM   #14748
mas335
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Piedmont region NC
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Standard OEM rear shock for 89-90 and I think 91 as well is 375mm center to center or very close to that number.
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:57 AM   #14749
R_Rick
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Location: Halifax, NS
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Originally Posted by mas335 View Post
Standard OEM rear shock for 89-90 and I think 91 as well is 375mm center to center or very close to that number.
That makes sense. I recall somewhere a few hundred pages back (or possibly in another thread) that someone was looking to sell a rear shock that was received in error. Said that he was shipped one for an 87/88 model that was about an inch shorter than his 90ish.

I'll pop mine off one of these days and measure it.
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:00 PM   #14750
ric678
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Location: WNY, where it no longer snows
Oddometer: 866
no start

Well after a long winters sleep my TA doesn't seem to want to start, Like no turning over start. I have the battery on the charger overnight, Any weird hidden fuses or circut breakers I should check?
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:47 PM   #14751
Big Chris
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Well after a long winters sleep my TA doesn't seem to want to start, Like no turning over start. I have the battery on the charger overnight, Any weird hidden fuses or circut breakers I should check?


There's a good chance your petrol has gone stale, since they took lead out of petrol it seems to now have a shorter life. Drain it out of both the tank and carbs and pour it into your car's fuel tank. Get fresh petrol. Also get a small syringe and some fuel line, remove a sparkplug and squirt 1cc (no more!) of fresh petrol into each cylinder. If you have a healthy spark that should get it running.
Before doing all this turn the engine on the starter motor to ensure oil gets to the top end before it runs.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:51 PM   #14752
thepoddo
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Originally Posted by P3ia View Post
Transalps do not look pretty from that direction...

(No bags on this pic)

I got a 650 myself, that's why I asked
Still it really look good in those colors, even in this pic
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:59 PM   #14753
ric678
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Location: WNY, where it no longer snows
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Originally Posted by Big Chris View Post
There's a good chance your petrol has gone stale, since they took lead out of petrol it seems to now have a shorter life. Drain it out of both the tank and carbs and pour it into your car's fuel tank. Get fresh petrol. Also get a small syringe and some fuel line, remove a sparkplug and squirt 1cc (no more!) of fresh petrol into each cylinder. If you have a healthy spark that should get it running.
Before doing all this turn the engine on the starter motor to ensure oil gets to the top end before it runs.
Well when I get it to actually turn over I can worry about the gas, /the tank did have some sta-bill stuff put in it, and it always seemed to run on just about any fuel I put in it, I couldn't get any cranking or lights at all, not even the horn..
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:09 PM   #14754
wdeTA
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If the bike sat that long and there was any moisture, some or all of the important electrical connections can corrode a little or at least get a film on them that limits the juice that can get through. Disconnect the major wires in the battery/starter circuit, clean them using electrical spray like Deoxit, and make sure everything is connected back up properly. If you know your battery is properly topped off, you can use your volt meter (everyone has one right ) and trace down how far the power is getting.
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:40 PM   #14755
Jim Rowley
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Location: Black Forest, Colorado
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Originally Posted by ric678 View Post
Well after a long winters sleep my TA doesn't seem to want to start, Like no turning over start. I have the battery on the charger overnight, Any weird hidden fuses or circut breakers I should check?
This may be a silly question but in what position is your kill switch? Another one, is the bike in gear with the sidestand deployed?
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:44 PM   #14756
2bold2getold
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Originally Posted by ric678 View Post
Well after a long winters sleep my TA doesn't seem to want to start, Like no turning over start. I have the battery on the charger overnight, Any weird hidden fuses or circut breakers I should check?
No weird fuses or circut breakers. There's the 30amp fuse on the solenoid/start relay and the ones up front, but they shouldn't keep it from cranking. If your battery is GOOD and it won't crank, try jumpering across the start relay. that should make it spin.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:18 PM   #14757
Belgian Waffles
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Location: Green. Wet. Oregon.
Oddometer: 871
Put some rubber killers on my handlebar mounts to get rid of the squishy feeling in the bars. Handling is much better and feels like a much more solid machine. Definitely recommended. Thank you to Jim Rowley for the parts.

I was looking at why my rear brake light is always on and discovered that for some reason my lever no longer covered the solenoid on the front side of the assembly. Not sure why, but I JB welded a little piece to cover it back up and now the solenoid clicks properly with each pull of the lever, but my light is still stuck on.

Before I discovered the solenoid issue I put some WD40 around the whole assembly thinking something mechanical was stuck. Could the WD40 have shorted the circuit to keep it always on if it got in there? Or insulated it maybe? I wonder if electrical contact cleaner will help clean it up?
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:09 PM   #14758
GSPD750
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Location: Calgary, AB
Oddometer: 1,410
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Originally Posted by Belgian Waffles View Post
Put some rubber killers on my handlebar mounts to get rid of the squishy feeling in the bars. Handling is much better and feels like a much more solid machine. Definitely recommended. Thank you to Jim Rowley for the parts.

I was looking at why my rear brake light is always on and discovered that for some reason my lever no longer covered the solenoid on the front side of the assembly. Not sure why, but I JB welded a little piece to cover it back up and now the solenoid clicks properly with each pull of the lever, but my light is still stuck on.

Before I discovered the solenoid issue I put some WD40 around the whole assembly thinking something mechanical was stuck. Could the WD40 have shorted the circuit to keep it always on if it got in there? Or insulated it maybe? I wonder if electrical contact cleaner will help clean it up?
Hello Jordan...first..it's actually a switch and not a solenoid. It may be mechanical so first thing is to check the security of the spring and it's function. The switch can be checked with a multimeter...and if it's faulty just order a new one.

Item #3 at the following. Spring is #4

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/piec...NSALP+600.html
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:36 AM   #14759
Jim Rowley
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Location: Black Forest, Colorado
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Jordan, you may want to check the rear brake light switch too. If it's dirty, it will stick. Both front and rear switches are mechanical and require more attention than the pressure switches.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:07 AM   #14760
Ladder106
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Remember there are 2 switches. One operated from the front brake lever, the other from the rear footbrake lever.

The rear light switch is adjustable up and down.

To find the culprit, remove the rear braks spring from the pedal, then see if the light operates correctly with the front brake lever. If not, repair the front switch. If the light is OK, adjust or repair the rear.

Normally, when a light stays on all the time it's because the rear switch is out of adjustment so I'd look there first.
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