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10-09-2008, 04:11 PM
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#1 |
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Off Trail
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 559
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'78 XL250, practically free - still worth it?
So I'm trying to work my way into dual sporting (a bud lent me a plated XR650 for a month and I was hooked!). It turns out that I have another friend back home who's trying to get rid of his old Honda XL250, for like $100
. Here's my take: THE GOOD - CHEAP! If I end up not liking it, no big deal - Runs great when (finally) started. Starting issues are likely an issue of sitting for a few years on several occassions. - Has speedo/tach/lights/brake lights/horn/etc. Some of which actually work (see "The Bad")! - Very lightweight and flickable compared to the BRP, and some other buddys' DR650s and LC4s. Not the bestest, high-zootiest suspension, but for a "2-wheeled jeep" on tight trails, it's just what I'm looking for, especially as a novice. THE BAD : - one of the forks is frozen, and obviously both need a rebuild. Can you still get parts for 'em??? Rear shocks are probably shitty as well... - brake light, turn sigs and horn not working. Probably just a fuse and/or corroded terminal(s); and the bike was never butchered. Abused, yes; but never really hacked into. - Might have some title issues - as in, lost title. - probably needs the carbs rebuilt - to be expected. Cold starts are a PITA, but if ridden even occasionally it supposedly kicks over pretty well. If anything, it'd be a great project to fix up and sell toward something like a DRZ or XRL, and learn a lot in the process. I'm mainly just worried about parts availabilty, and whether this thing will have any value if a do a "functional restoration" to it?? Thoughts?
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- Brendan '08 Yamaha WR250R (sold) '78 Honda XL250 '02 Honda CBR1100XX |
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10-09-2008, 04:44 PM
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#2 |
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Maita'i roa ae!
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Saint Rosie, California
Oddometer: 1,801
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Get something that works. Speaking from experience, it's cheaper to buy something running. A XL250 is hardly worth the headaches...even at $100.
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10-09-2008, 05:03 PM
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#3 |
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Planning.....
Joined: Mar 2007
Oddometer: 5,242
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If you'll get it starting good , fix the suspension and lights I'll give you $200 for it................
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10-09-2008, 06:39 PM
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#4 |
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Legend in his own mind
Joined: Mar 2006
Oddometer: 1,626
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The electrical problems sound like a dead battery. Brake light, horn and turn signals on that bike all very battery dependent. Rebuilding the carburetor is not beyond you, as long as you make notes and don't lose any pieces. You could try a can of Seafoam first. Not sure what you mean by "one of the forks is frozen." If you mean it's rusted so it won't move, that means you need new forks. Not the end of the world, but you'll have to be all over Ebay to get replacements at a price that makes sense for this project.
I guess if you can get the title thing worked out with the current owner, as in, "I'll buy it the day you get a clear title for it", I would do it. The bike will have no brakes, and the lighting is so poor you shouldn't ride after dark, but it will give you 70 mpg on regular unleaded and the CDI ignition will keep you from having to go back to the bad old days of timing lights and ignition points.
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Often wrong, but never in doubt. |
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10-09-2008, 06:56 PM
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#5 | |
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Off Trail
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 559
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Quote:
__________________
- Brendan '08 Yamaha WR250R (sold) '78 Honda XL250 '02 Honda CBR1100XX |
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10-09-2008, 07:01 PM
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#6 | |
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Aged Adventurer
Joined: Feb 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 1,110
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Quote:
I just got a 74 xl250 running. Its a fun bike but as a dual-sport bike it sucks. There may be 3 inches of suspension travel on either end. My Honda Identification Guide says the 78 has a 23" front wheel. PITA. My 74 is a 6 volt system. Lots of the electrical parts are unobtanium. Not sure when they all became 12v. There are lots of things you didn't mention: tires tubes chain air filter oil and filter brakes - even when they're good, they're bad. I had to nearly replace all the inside parts of the carb before it would start and run reliably. My rule of thumb is any bike project will cost at least $400 and usually more. Find something that runs and has the correct paperwork.
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Phil in Seattle, WA |
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10-09-2008, 07:04 PM
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#7 | |
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Off Trail
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 559
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Quote:
__________________
- Brendan '08 Yamaha WR250R (sold) '78 Honda XL250 '02 Honda CBR1100XX |
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10-09-2008, 07:09 PM
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#8 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: sacramento
Oddometer: 91
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If your capible of riding an XR650, the 250 would get boring quickly. Once you get it titled and fixed up, when you sell it, your really not going to make alot of $ on it. I would just get the bike you want and bypass the 250.
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10-09-2008, 07:11 PM
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#9 | |
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Off Trail
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 559
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Quote:
__________________
- Brendan '08 Yamaha WR250R (sold) '78 Honda XL250 '02 Honda CBR1100XX |
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10-09-2008, 07:16 PM
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#10 | |
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Legend in his own mind
Joined: Mar 2006
Oddometer: 1,626
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Quote:
The late 70's and early 80's dual sports still had 6V electrical systems.
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Often wrong, but never in doubt. |
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10-09-2008, 07:16 PM
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#11 | |
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Off Trail
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC (summer back home in western PA)
Oddometer: 559
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Quote:
__________________
- Brendan '08 Yamaha WR250R (sold) '78 Honda XL250 '02 Honda CBR1100XX bpg screwed with this post 10-09-2008 at 07:44 PM |
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10-09-2008, 07:40 PM
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#12 |
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REMF
Joined: Mar 2002
Location: Nebraska
Oddometer: 8,546
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Might want to check this site out
http://www.xlintperformance.com/
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Mike S. '09 Bonneville Black AMA MSTA STOC http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...orcycleriders/ |
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10-09-2008, 08:37 PM
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#13 |
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paying the futility bills
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Pansy's Palace, Illinois
Oddometer: 4,368
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If it's a '78, it's an XL250S.
16 inch laydown shocks, carb w/ an accelerator pump? An "S". I have an '81. Geared low, it's a trail tractor. I can idle along in first through thick brush using alternating hands to move limbs and vines out of the way. No feathering the clutch or working the throttle. Just move stuff and steer through. As mentioned earlier, the brake light, signals, and horn need a good, charged battery to work. They're DC, the headlight is AC. The last battery I bought was about 18 bucks, IIRC. Carb needs to be clean, valves adjusted, and it should start with less than four kicks. Cold. Mine gets started regularly, and it's 1 or 2 kicks, cold or hot. Fork seals are available, dunno about anything internal to the forks. Ebay. They only seem to be readily interchangable with the 78-81 XL250S and 500S's. Maybe the same years XR's. Rear shocks were marginal when they were new. Most I've seen only have one shock of the pair with any damping, and not much of that. Your choices are Hagons from Dave Quinn for around 200 bucks or Works Performance for around 400. Not much good to be said about the brakes. The less you weigh, the better. My 200 lbs produces some sphincter-tightening moments in Houston traffic. How's the exhaust? Most of them around here have rotted out mufflers. Mine came with a Supertrapp that cost the PO 150 bucks. I have the loudest lawnmower on the block. Dunno, how much wrenching can you do yourself? Mine is fun, but it is what it is, and it'll prolly never be more.(I have a KDX200 front end w/disc brake I'm eying to adapt, but it won't be simple.) PM if you've got any more questions. Mark.
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_________________________ Mark |
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10-09-2008, 08:40 PM
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#14 | |
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paying the futility bills
Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Pansy's Palace, Illinois
Oddometer: 4,368
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Quote:
No oil filter. Rear tire is 18 inch. Easy to find. 23's, less selection.
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_________________________ Mark |
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10-10-2008, 12:19 AM
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#15 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2004
Location: Anchorage, formerly Spenard (hub of the universe)
Oddometer: 4,425
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