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Old 11-22-2008, 03:55 PM   #1
swanski OP
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Question quick wiring question

OK, I am about to finish wiring up my Hella lights. I have a simple on/off switch (not illuminated). I plan to run the fused power from the green/blue wire off the diagnostic under the seat to the relay. Here is my question:

Do I have to also connect the hot from the on/off switch to the same switched green/blue wire, or can I just run it to the positive on the battery?

I want to be sure that there is no power when the ignition is off.
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Old 11-22-2008, 04:30 PM   #2
B.E. Coyote
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Not sure I understand exactly but you want the lights powered right from the battery or seperated fuse panel. This power should run through a relay. The relay should be controlled by a switch that only gets power when the bike is on.

If you are trying to power the lights from another source you will have problems. Do a search for relays or blue seas or something
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Old 11-22-2008, 05:03 PM   #3
Tommy Gunn
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Your question is not clear enough to provide an accurate reply.
Sounds like you are planning to serve the Hella lights from the green/blue at the diagnostic harness via a switch. If this is the case, it will not work properly. You would be best served with a relay controlled buss distribution system with multiple fused circuits; Blue Seas or Centech for example. Your Hella light relay could be controlled by any one of a number of inputs; tail lite, high beam, etc.
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:13 PM   #4
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so as long as the on/off switch power wire goes to switched power on the bike (in this case the blue/green from the diagnostic), the switch will only be able to activate the relay to turn on the lights when bike is on?
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:00 AM   #5
bemiiten
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Although others are using the computers diagnostic plug as a switched source for a relay, I think it's a poor choice. Why tap into the bikes most expensive,sensitive electrical component?
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Old 11-23-2008, 05:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swanski
so as long as the on/off switch power wire goes to switched power on the bike (in this case the blue/green from the diagnostic), the switch will only be able to activate the relay to turn on the lights when bike is on?
yes, switched power to the switch then to #86 on the relay. If the lights came with a harness it should be pretty easy to do. If not.... then

+ wire from battery to 30 on the relay
+ wire from 87 on the relay to lights
85 on the relay should be ground
86 should be the control wire from your switch

run a separate ground back to your panel or battery for your lights

I also agree with not tapping the diagnostic wire
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swanski
Do I have to also connect the hot from the on/off switch to the same switched green/blue wire, or can I just run it to the positive on the battery?
The battery will work - definitely NOT the striped wire for the hot lead to the relay.

I also suggest triggering your relay with a different striped wire - underseat accessory socket or parking light.
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:04 AM   #8
slowinfastout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swanski
OK, I am about to finish wiring up my Hella lights. I have a simple on/off switch (not illuminated). I plan to run the fused power from the green/blue wire off the diagnostic under the seat to the relay. Here is my question:

Do I have to also connect the hot from the on/off switch to the same switched green/blue wire, or can I just run it to the positive on the battery?

I want to be sure that there is no power when the ignition is off.
This is not how you want to wire those up.

* Run your main lamp wires (fused) to the battery direct via a standard relay that should have come in your kit for the Hellas.

* Power your switch to another 12v source closer to the handlebars. Most GS riders like to power off the parking lamp, and this is a good little gadget to tap into that power source without having to splice or tap into the factory wiring on a GS12 model:

http://www.ezymount.com/kits/plugnplay.htm

* Once you have your switch in the line, then you energize the relay with it.

When done, you have it properly and safely wired up, the Hellas will only come on when the key is turned 'ON' and using this method you have not cut into any factory wiring whatsoever.
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:06 AM   #9
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Do not run the fused power for the lights to the b/g wire in the diagnostic plug. It must be powered by the battery through a simple 12v relay. You can pick one up at any auto parts store for $5 or so. The wire from your on/off switch also goes to the relay and finally the fourth connection on the relay goes to the b/g wire on the dianostic.
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swanski
OK, I am about to finish wiring up my Hella lights. I have a simple on/off switch (not illuminated). I plan to run the fused power from the green/blue wire off the diagnostic under the seat to the relay. Here is my question:

Do I have to also connect the hot from the on/off switch to the same switched green/blue wire, or can I just run it to the positive on the battery?

I want to be sure that there is no power when the ignition is off.
From your question, it seems you are not clear why you need to use a relay for the lights. The reason to use a relay in such an application is to use a switch that only takes small current to control a load draws much higher current (mA's through switch vs. Amp's through lights).
So, all you need is put the light switch (+) on a switched source (controlled by ignition, I put mine to the low beam +) and power source through relay to lights to the battery.
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Old 11-23-2008, 03:26 PM   #11
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Thumb

I was good to go on the whole relay thing - thanks for the help. I got it all done this afternoon - wires are covered, zip-tied, etc. I even managed to get the hot fused wire up under the rubber hood over the positive terminal so it looks much neater. I used a simple rubber-covered on/off that I just mounted next the hi-low beam switch. I used super sticky 3m double-sided tape to mount the switch - seems to be on there pretty good. The lights are 500ffs and they are super bright compared to stock lights. Now waiting for dark so I can adjust angles. I Still have to take off my light bar again and finish it up (still needs priming and painting), but I wired the lights so I can just remove the bar and lights and leave my wiring in place.
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