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Old 05-24-2010, 04:20 AM   #1501
mcgiggle
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Just going back to the "standard" GS question again, the wife's forks are already as far through the triple as they will go, so adding YZ forks and keeping the geometry isn't possible ( have -1 Koubalinks fitted) or can a set of YZ forks be modified to get round this problem?
Would I be right in thinking that you could install shorter springs which would then lower the front of the bike?

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Old 05-24-2010, 04:49 AM   #1502
komatias
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You should be able to shim the forks to get them to the length you want providing you can get the springs. This is possible on the WP forks for sure. On the other hand you are going to severely limit the travel and there is still no guarantee that the geometry will be any good.

I though Koubalinks did ont recomend the -1" on the GS range, only the Dakar.
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:47 AM   #1503
rmarkr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgiggle
Just going back to the "standard" GS question again, the wife's forks are already as far through the triple as they will go, so adding YZ forks and keeping the geometry isn't possible ( have -1 Koubalinks fitted) or can a set of YZ forks be modified to get round this problem?
Would I be right in thinking that you could install shorter springs which would then lower the front of the bike?

Cheers
Pete
Pete
The YZ forks have 300mm of travel vs 165mm (I think) for the GS. That's going to raise the front end considerably. I believe you could chop down the forks and revise the internals to damp correctly. The inverted forks are the better design -their rigidity is high - especially when compressed. The risk/hassle factor of modifying the forks for a lowered bike may not be worth it.
If you merely use shorter (or softer) springs the shock absorber is pre-activated at rest and will result in a harsh ride.
You would have to limit the travel of the wheel to slide the forks thru the triple - and the YZ forks have lands (shoulders) at the triples, with a limited amount of adjustment.
It may be worth looking at improving the stock fork internals.
For what it's worth.
Mark
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Old 05-24-2010, 06:06 AM   #1504
mcgiggle
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Thanks Mark, I see where your coming from.
I was thinking about using a street bike forks, something with more travel than a GSXR but less than a Crosser. Obviously she has less ground clearance than stock ( also, she's not looking to go doing doubles on a Supercross Track) but a better quality/more adjustable front end would be great.
Hum that last line sounds a bit rude!

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Old 05-24-2010, 06:08 AM   #1505
JDLuke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgiggle
Thanks Mark, I see where your coming from.
I was thinking about using a street bike forks, something with more travel than a GSXR but less than a Crosser. Obviously she has less ground clearance than stock ( also, she's not looking to go doing doubles on a Supercross Track) but a better quality/more adjustable front end would be great.
Hum that last line sounds a bit rude!

Cheers
Pete
As long as you don't complain about the rebound adjustment in her rear end you should be OK.
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:39 AM   #1506
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Almost complete :)

Damn brakes wont bleed and its too dark outside to see anything

6mm spacer on top of the stem bearing for the classic and you will need to add a washer behind the tank rubbers to give clearance for the lower clamp.

Need to get the bracket for the steering stops elongated on both sides... A longer side stand..and still waiting for the RFID ignition from motogadget..and nickle plating on all the machined stuff.

Seems ok geometry wise.. so the rear shock wont be required .



The Disc had to be moved inwards 6mm (I think) so the mounting face on the hub was shaved..



Thats where the clamp used to touch the tank...



and this is where it touches the radiator bracket..



Waiting to get rid of this..



More tomorrow..captain morgan awaits
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:28 PM   #1507
'Rett Butler
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Refined (but unproven) Ignition Plate

Working off the dimensions given by rc mad, I by trial and error (using CAD) figured out the radius needed to mate the plate to the factory Yamaha triple more cleanly. I created it in mm as rc mad - after all both bikes are metric. I plan to make it out of 1/4" plate (6.35 mm) on my buddy's table top CNC this week. If anyone wants the .dwg file after I've made one (and made sure it works) send me a PM and I'll email it to ya.





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'Rett Butler screwed with this post 05-25-2010 at 12:50 PM
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:07 PM   #1508
rc mad
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looks good bumblebeemer, i'm still using the mount i made, somewhat reinfoced now tho.

The mount i made was ok but the biggest problem was that it could twist if the bars were moved with the steering lock on, i fixed it by putting another plate above it that tied into the steering stem itself and also fastening some supports into the triple. It is really soild now and does not twist at all.

Just something for you to consider with your design.
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:39 PM   #1509
'Rett Butler
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yeah, I'm worried this paper won't hold up too :)

I'm hoping that the increased contact with the triple will firm things up. If not, I was going to put two steel hooks on each end that would hook under the bottom edge of the triple. These would be tapped and a bolt would go in from the top pulling the ends of the plate snugly against the OEM boss and back against the triple.

We'll see - I hate to over engineer right away. Fortunately I have two upper triples so I can R&D without bringing the bike down.
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:16 PM   #1510
mootsuno
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I have the same top clamp and fabricated a 1/4" plate similar to BB36's, not
quite as nice though.

Then I brought to the local welding shop and had them weld it. It doesn't
move at all. The bead was a little thick so I ground it down then bead blasted
the entire clamp to get a uniform finish.

Most people who don't know any better think it's factory and that's
the look I was going for.
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:21 PM   #1511
'Rett Butler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mootsuno
I have the same top clamp and fabricated a 1/4" plate similar to BB36's, not
quite as nice though.

Then I brought to the local welding shop and had them weld it. It doesn't
move at all. The bead was a little thick so I ground it down then bead blasted
the entire clamp to get a uniform finish.

Most people who don't know any better think it's factory and that's
the look I was going for.
I was thinking the same thing about welding it if it didn't seem rigid enough. I have a co-worker who could do it.

Could you post a pic?
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Family Bikes: '11 Sprint GT, '10 Thruxton, '09 F650GS, '07 CRF150RB, '98 DR350SE, '75 CB400F, '74 TL250, '71 CT90 and '69 CB450
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:51 PM   #1512
tmotten
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That things weighs half a kilo, and aren't an effective locking device. Why go through all this trouble?
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:12 PM   #1513
'Rett Butler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
That things weighs half a kilo, and aren't an effective locking device. Why go through all this trouble?
1. Same key as rear storage compartments
2. If it looks bulky and strong (even if it isn't) perhaps it will deter a thief to another motorcycle
3. With what I saved on the fork conversion, I can deal with the extra weight - I need something to hold the front end down now
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Family Bikes: '11 Sprint GT, '10 Thruxton, '09 F650GS, '07 CRF150RB, '98 DR350SE, '75 CB400F, '74 TL250, '71 CT90 and '69 CB450
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:41 PM   #1514
mootsuno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BumbleBeemer36
I was thinking the same thing about welding it if it didn't seem rigid enough. I have a co-worker who could do it.

Could you post a pic?
Page 73 of this thread, post 1086.
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Old 05-25-2010, 07:20 PM   #1515
mpanther
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Not on a F650 but relevant.

On my ADV build I have been leaning toward leaving the key switch in, but not connected electrically.
for the actual key, i am going to use one of those "chip" ignition lockout systems. (usually mounted under the dash)
The style i am thinking of makes a a few connections on a bunch of black wires.
When the chip is installed it would activate a 40 amp relay to turn the key power on.

Advantages to me would be,
Someone can break the crap out of my ignition and I am not stranded.
(unless I locked the steering, but that can be overcome with tools and time.)
I do get to keep my stock steering lock.
If I loose my key somewhere, I know what relay to bypass and how.
Could be more reliable than my stock switch contacts. (now 27 yrs old.)

This can work pretty good without a key at all, but it would be nice to distract the thief. lol.
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