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Old 05-30-2010, 01:25 PM   #1531
BMacW650
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 741
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpanther
Your ignition plate is a thing of beauty.

and this lock idea is a great one.
I'm gonna steal it.
You can buy the same torsion latch with lock from southco. Just have to drill out the old rivets.
http://www.southco.com/products/k2-k...4-2833-07.html
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:16 PM   #1532
mpanther
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Location: Las Wages
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650
You can buy the same torsion latch with lock from southco. Just have to drill out the old rivets.
http://www.southco.com/products/k2-k...4-2833-07.html
Nice, thank you.
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:49 AM   #1533
john_aero
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here we go meant put them up while ago

ignition lock
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:50 AM   #1534
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2nd
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:51 AM   #1535
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3rd
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:52 AM   #1536
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4th and final
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:14 AM   #1537
rmarkr
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Some good lookin' bikes out there - John and Roughseas - nice work!

Anyone have a work around for a gas cap without a key? I would like to ditch the ignition switch - I'll use a hidden switch.
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Old 06-01-2010, 05:23 AM   #1538
mcgiggle
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I had this reply from the chain gang,waynec
"The USD conversion on a GS rather than Dakar should not be a problem

The Y*m*ha YZ is the easiest as the yokes fit & the post is a little longer so the upper yoke is higher & gives clearance on the steering lock, this also means "fork length" is then longer to top of upper yoke.

The length of both YZ and WP forks is reduced by fitting a spacer above the piston, this simultaneously reduces the stroke & ensures guard clearance on full compression. On the WP the stroke can be further reduced (17 mm) by a spacer at the top of the forks, the YZ is likely to be the same.

Richard at HOH in the US is fitting a 1" spacer to the YZ forks to set up geometry for the Dakar when using a stock rear shock. He is also making & fitting a shorter spring with a spring rate to suit the rider weight & type of usage of the machine.

The simple solution is to send him the forks and advise him you are setting up for a GS not Dakar and he will fit a longer spacer etc

The figures I have here are 680mm from axle centre to bottom of Steering Head for a Dakar & 615mm for a GS. That would suggest a spacer of 3.5" for a GS & give about 210 mm stroke.

I stress the GS SH to axle centre figure needs to be confirmed, I only have one measurement from one person, albeit a pretty good reliable person"

Now i'm completly loss

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmarkr
Pete
The YZ forks have 300mm of travel vs 165mm (I think) for the GS. That's going to raise the front end considerably. I believe you could chop down the forks and revise the internals to damp correctly. The inverted forks are the better design -their rigidity is high - especially when compressed. The risk/hassle factor of modifying the forks for a lowered bike may not be worth it.
If you merely use shorter (or softer) springs the shock absorber is pre-activated at rest and will result in a harsh ride.
You would have to limit the travel of the wheel to slide the forks thru the triple - and the YZ forks have lands (shoulders) at the triples, with a limited amount of adjustment.
It may be worth looking at improving the stock fork internals.
For what it's worth.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:06 AM   #1539
rmarkr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgiggle
The figures I have here are 680mm from axle centre to bottom of Steering Head for a Dakar & 615mm for a GS. That would suggest a spacer of 3.5" for a GS & give about 210 mm stroke.
Bear in mind that the Dakar forks extend further than the GS (your numbers result in 65mm), and that the Dakar is fitted with a 21" front wheel - and has a different front fender to accomodate the larger wheel.
From memory the Dakar has 210mm and the GS 170 mm of front travel.
So the extra travel is 40mm plus the (half) larger wheel of 25mm which equals the 65mm.
If you fitted a 3.5" (about 90mm) spacer to the Yamaha forks you would reduce the travel to 210mm and leave a lot of clearance under the lower triple - unless you could slide the forks up thru the clamps by a large amount. Also, you would need to alter the damping to suit the shorter stroke - may need a different damping cartridge?

Clear as mud now?
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:36 AM   #1540
WayneC1
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As per my post on f650, Richard at HoH makes changes in length to suit the machine as part of his work

As per the posts in this thread Richard also takes care of the damping changes as part of his work, if you look at other posts here he has been prepared to send to the UK all damper parts needed to do the conversion, there is no need for a replacement damper cartridge
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:00 AM   #1541
mcgiggle
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Brilliant guys,
Thanks for the help, so if I speak to Richard at HoH and give him the SP on what we need he can ship the parts to the UK for me to fit an OE YZ front end?
Oh yeah, already running a 21"X18" wheel setup even though it's a GS

Cheers
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:47 AM   #1542
john_aero
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgiggle
Brilliant guys,
Thanks for the help, so if I speak to Richard at HoH and give him the SP on what we need he can ship the parts to the UK for me to fit an OE YZ front end?
Oh yeah, already running a 21"X18" wheel setup even though it's a GS

Cheers
Pete (a little less confused than I was 3 hours ago)
what rear are yout on?
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:39 PM   #1543
jonkem
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Location: Bedfordshire, UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgiggle
Brilliant guys,
Thanks for the help, so if I speak to Richard at HoH and give him the SP on what we need he can ship the parts to the UK for me to fit an OE YZ front end?
Pete (a little less confused than I was 3 hours ago)
Hi Pete,

I sent Richard @ HOH just the cartridges and valves rather than the whole forks as all the work he needs to do is in there.

That saves you a load of postage money and when he sends the parts back along with the springs he can honestly declare it as repair parts for customs

It's very easy and cheap to get the forks built up in the UK if your not happy to do it yourself.

Jon
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Old 06-01-2010, 01:39 PM   #1544
rc mad
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thats probablly the best way to do it, took me a good few days of carefull work to get my forks back together using just the parts from hoh.

Depends how confident you are that you won't screw up the forks
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:20 PM   #1545
notmybikemodelname
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: I'm in jail Dad, and I like it here.............
Oddometer: 7,273
So here's where I'm at.....

A few small tweeks and bolting on the front fender and the skid plate and I'm riding again after this two month project.

New additions:
Carbon/Epoxy fairing with built in oil tank cooling and air intake ducting.
Carbon/Epoxy faux tank cover with easy access to water inlet
Carbon/Epoxy airbox and intake manifold
Carbon/Vinylester rear 1.7 gal gas tank with stock filler cap
New Seat with map holder pocket
HID lights
LED tail light (not shown)
Trail Tech kickstand and new mounting brackets
Oil Cooler
New "raised" s/s header
New Cycra front fender (not shown)
New rubber-toughened Epoxy/Aramid skid plate raised 2.75" (not shown)

My bike now has:

11.75" Front travel
10.5" rear travel
12.5" Clearance at the linkage and 15" at the front
Approx 315lbs
36" seat height
1" raising linkage

Still needs:

Paint
18" rear rim
1" more bar risers



[IMG][/IMG]

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[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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