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Old 10-22-2010, 09:10 AM   #1891
Parx400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpanther
This would depend on, what kind of handle bars you chose, if you have any bar risers, the shape of the outside of the upper forks (ie: do they have a narrowing or same diameter all the way), does it look stupid to you with them all the way up.
Plus if you move them up too far the tire is going to hit the fender.
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:35 AM   #1892
DirtNap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400
Plus if you move them up too far the tire is going to hit the fender.
Without limiting the travel, you are right. Bad things could happen. Part of the reason for wanting to know how much you can slide the forks up in the trips is to figure out how much travel can be used when the forks are slid up in the trips.

If you set the travel limit so that it doesn't hit the fender when bottomed, you''ve handled the worst-case scenario. Then when you slide the forks down in the trips you have more clearance available and can adjust the travel limit accordingly.

Just trying to learn how it fits together.
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:20 PM   #1893
herrhelmet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400
Where is the post mounted on the frame?
Here is the POS. But it works so I'm leaving it alone for now....

Looks like it came off a Civil War Cannon...









I have less than a pube between the tower and the batter cover...

Any questions?
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:31 PM   #1894
tmotten
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Yep, where did you get the LED covers??
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Old 10-22-2010, 08:35 PM   #1895
herrhelmet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
Yep, where did you get the LED covers??

Off the shelf PEP boys. Just instrument light covers. I jammed the OEM lights in from the bottom.
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:15 PM   #1896
mattomoto
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Nice work there Herrhelmet

Matto
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:25 PM   #1897
herrhelmet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomoto
Nice work there Herrhelmet

Matto

Thanks Matt. BTW I had an '04 TE 450... sweet bike.
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:28 PM   #1898
mattomoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herrhelmet
Thanks Matt. BTW I had an '04 TE 450... sweet bike.
Hell ya! mines an 08 and I am loving it! It will be traveling on the race trailer next year when I come out to Caly in March. Will be there for 2 weeks...
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Old 10-23-2010, 05:05 AM   #1899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
Three points:

First, a few guys assured me that doing this conversion without the chain roller worked a treat. So far in my experience that is the case. The chain does rest upon the centerstand (SW-Motech Dakar stand) at rest, but once my weight is on the bike that stops.

.......
So what you're saying is that the chain smacks the centerstand every time the rear wheel leaves the ground Any possibilites of mounting a chain slide on that connecting spot ? Sounds liek it grinds even when you're just wheeling the bike around the lot
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Old 10-24-2010, 06:35 AM   #1900
notmybikemodelname
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtNap
Without limiting the travel, you are right. Bad things could happen. Part of the reason for wanting to know how much you can slide the forks up in the trips is to figure out how much travel can be used when the forks are slid up in the trips.

If you set the travel limit so that it doesn't hit the fender when bottomed, you''ve handled the worst-case scenario. Then when you slide the forks down in the trips you have more clearance available and can adjust the travel limit accordingly.

Just trying to learn how it fits together.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parx400
Plus if you move them up too far the tire is going to hit the fender.
YOu guys are forgetting one other VERY IMPORTANT point. The Yammie forks have 11.7" of travel. Your bike only has 10.5 of ground clearance. Do the math.

If you slide the forks up in the trips, you're only decreasing your ground clearance and therefore creating a bigger issue (bottoming out). The only way to use all of your front travel is:
  1. Lift the rear to give yourself 12" of GC
  2. Remove your skid plate and lower frame assembly.
I did a combination of the two. I lifted my rear end 1" and removed the stock skidplate and lower frame assembly and replaced it with a single piece unit that is a skidplate and frame component all in one. It is 3/16" Carbon/Kevlar. Remember the engine is a stressed unit on this bike and therefore the lower frame and skiplate are just to protect the bottom of the engine. They provide no frame strength at all.

In doing it the way I have, I kept the 11.7" of front travel and now have 13.5" of ground clearance. The rear sits higher, giving my forks a more vertical stance and therefore increasing the snappy feeling of the steering. It does not seemed to have diminished the high speed control either.

If you don't want more GC, and you want to slide your forks down in the trips, then you MUST limit your fork travel. At this point, why even do the mod IMHFO?
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:06 AM   #1901
DirtNap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
YOu guys are forgetting one other VERY IMPORTANT point. The Yammie forks have 11.7" of travel. Your bike only has 10.5 of ground clearance. Do the math.
I've done the math, that's why I asked about the max amount the forks can be slipped up in the trips. That's the number I don't have. Then I can finish the math.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
If you slide the forks up in the trips, you're only decreasing your ground clearance and therefore creating a bigger issue (bottoming out). The only way to use all of your front travel is:
  1. Lift the rear to give yourself 12" of GC
  2. Remove your skid plate and lower frame assembly.
I don't intend to use all of the available travel. I intend to use all of the travel I can given constraints of seat height and ground clearance. Some of us aren't 7 feet tall. Once the math is complete I will use spacers to limit the actual travel so that it bottoms out without hitting other parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notmybikemodelname
If you don't want more GC, and you want to slide your forks down in the trips, then you MUST limit your fork travel. At this point, why even do the mod IMHFO?
Agreed. Fork travel must be limited to prevent some serious issues.

However...

Gaining additional travel is only one of several reasons to swap forks. More adjustability, better compression and damping response, increased stiffness, lighter steering feel (with a 21" wheel), reduced unsprung weight, overall weight reduction, preventing catastrophic fork failure - these are some of the other reasons. Maybe some folks just want USD forks, nothing more.

Any reason is valid, as long as someone else is writing the check - it's not my place to disagree.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:50 PM   #1902
mattomoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtNap
I intend to use all of the travel I can given constraints of seat height and ground clearance. Some of us aren't 7 feet tall.
Ever seen Rob standing next to his bike??? Sorry Rob, had to say it! I'm a dick!
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:22 PM   #1903
WayneC1
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Never thought I would say it but here goes

Wise Words from Rob & ones everyone should listen to
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:27 PM   #1904
notmybikemodelname
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattomoto
Ever seen Rob standing next to his bike??? Sorry Rob, had to say it! I'm a dick!
Come on Matt, on a good day I'm at least 5'8". The only time I notice my bike is really tall is when I stop , and that I never bottom out and use every bit of the 11.7" routinely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1
Never thought I would say it but here goes

Wise Words from Rob & ones everyone should listen to
Hey Wayne, when I read this... well let's just say that I thought about rewording every bit of it. The last thing I'm trying to do is make people agree with me.

Cheers
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Old 10-24-2010, 07:38 PM   #1905
WayneC1
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Rob I would be disappointed if you did not initiate a robust discussion, sometimes it is what it takes to get people thinking

In this case well considered & well written words & right to the point

Notice it has taken 100 odd pages before the penny dropped on the different YZ post lengths ?
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