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Old 03-24-2013, 01:01 AM   #3571
Gangplank
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Justify .50 springs...

Ok... I had tge F800GS. Did a conversion to marzocchi shiver 45s off an RXV. It had .50 springs and was spot on.

When checking the racetech site I was using the YZ bike & added 200? lbs. it said to use .53. Stock is .43 for YZ.

And I trust Ed McCoy's recommendation. We'll see if he is on the mark soon. He valved & did the spring work.

Use what you prefer but reading a few comments from folks who went stiffer it sounds like .49 to .54 is enough.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:52 PM   #3572
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Here's where I am on the fork install:

2003 Yamaha YZ 450 forks have been rebuilt with new seals and custom ordered springs, shortened 1". They have been mounted with new Yamaha bearings. The front fender was mounted and spaced so it doesn't drag on the headlight shroud.

Seal Skinz have been purchased and installed.

A used Yamaha wheel and front brake caliper/master have been purchased.

A used Yamaha axle was purchased but I had to buy new axle spacers since they didn't come with either the wheel or the axle.

A new EBC 270 mm front disc and caliper relocator bracket have been installed.

The Yamaha front brake lever/master cylinder was binned in favour of using the stock BMW brake lever/master cylinder. The stock Yamaha brake line was used with a new fitting which comes off at a different angle. Everything seems to be working fine.

Some plastic, very little had to be trimmed and a small amount of stamped steel had to be trimmed.

The steering stops work great.

I just received my Ohlins rear shock Friday and it will be installed this week. I had no idea what a pain in the ass installing a rear shock is on this bike. The entire rear subframe has to come off as well as the fuel tank.

One thing lacking is a better brake line guide to keep the brake line from hanging up as the fork telescopes.


I have some Renthal bars and some grips and acerbis handguards coming, but I'm a bit concerned that the clutch cable is a little short. I wanted the bars because they are wider, but they might be a little too wide for the length of the clutch cable.
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Old 03-24-2013, 05:10 PM   #3573
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Did you do anything special on the steering stops? Make sure you post some pictures.

Kainic screwed with this post 03-24-2013 at 05:46 PM
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:34 PM   #3574
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Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
The racetech calculator is recommending springs for the stock piston rod forks not a cartridge system, take a look at the KTM990 recommendations on the same racetech calculator and you will start to see the difference in spring rates between piston rod forks and cartridge forks. Cartridge forks use a far lighter spring rate

You can look at a summary graph with various models here http://www.f650gs.crossroadz.com.au/...tVspringKG.pdf
true wayne. enter yz 426, exaggerate your weight to suit the dakar yz kilo diff and get .54. dr650 with gear .60 and above with rwu forks,[ right way up folks].
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:43 PM   #3575
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Justify .50 springs...

Ok... I had tge F800GS. Did a conversion to marzocchi shiver 45s off an RXV. It had .50 springs and was spot on.

When checking the racetech site I was using the YZ bike & added 200? lbs. it said to use .53. Stock is .43 for YZ.

And I trust Ed McCoy's recommendation. We'll see if he is on the mark soon. He valved & did the spring work.

Use what you prefer but reading a few comments from folks who went stiffer it sounds like .49 to .54 is enough.
yep. cannon racecraft do the progressive spring job for most people on this forum. they are purposely stiffer to suit road bike stability, and decrease resistance when they practicaly hit something. .50 .54 will it matter with the linear spring option?.you know when you spent the dough!. keep us posted.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:45 PM   #3576
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Racetech and a couple of others with calculators seem to have purchased the software from a common source, not sure who but results are the same
There should be some small differences between bike models reflecting differences in weight bias F/R, but these are only minor
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:11 PM   #3577
xt500nz
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Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Racetech and a couple of others with calculators seem to have purchased the software from a common source, not sure who but results are the same
There should be some small differences between bike models reflecting differences in weight bias F/R, but these are only minor
they are innovative. i think after 5 yrs or so, the debate about spring rates could be settled, imho. the bike has its limits, and its a shame not my model name isnt participating anymore, we need someone loose enough to show what can and cant be done.
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:04 PM   #3578
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Originally Posted by xt500nz View Post
true wayne. enter yz 426, exaggerate your weight to suit the dakar yz kilo diff and get .54. dr650 with gear .60 and above with rwu forks,[ right way up folks].
Only 50% of the weight is up front and much of it rides lower than the rider. I'll report back but it seems .49 to .54 is the right target range from what I've been reading. Keep in mind also that the recommendation is for their valving and set up recommendations. My tuner chose the springs for my bike and tuned the valves and set up to suit the springs he used. You can achieve the same or similar results with different specs internally.

YMMV of course...
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:04 PM   #3579
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Looks like we are are at similar stages and direction on our builds. What rate springs did you go with? A couple of differences of course

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
Here's where I am on the fork install:

2003 Yamaha YZ 450 forks have been rebuilt with new seals and custom ordered springs, shortened 1". They have been mounted with new Yamaha bearings. The front fender was mounted and spaced so it doesn't drag on the headlight shroud.
Same here. I'm thinking of going with an aftermarket supermoto fender. Not sure yet.

Seal Skinz have been purchased and installed.
I used the Moose Racing ones and a set of UFO fork guards which have routing for the brake line. That and I plan to get a new line from cyclebrakes with a stiffener once I get it all together.

A used Yamaha wheel and front brake caliper/master have been purchased. A used Yamaha axle was purchased but I had to buy new axle spacers since they didn't come with either the wheel or the axle.
Same here.

A new EBC 270 mm front disc and caliper relocator bracket have been installed.
I went with the 320mm kit. Hope I'm not doing stoppies at red lights.

The Yamaha front brake lever/master cylinder was binned in favour of using the stock BMW brake lever/master cylinder. The stock Yamaha brake line was used with a new fitting which comes off at a different angle. Everything seems to be working fine.
Still working on this one. Did the YZ brake line not fit the BMW master or did you just want a different fitment?

Some plastic, very little had to be trimmed and a small amount of stamped steel had to be trimmed.

The steering stops work great.

I just received my Ohlins rear shock Friday and it will be installed this week. I had no idea what a pain in the ass installing a rear shock is on this bike. The entire rear subframe has to come off as well as the fuel tank.
Did you drill and tap the steering stops or some other method? I'm using an Elka shock. Should be here this week if all goes according to plan!! I also figured since I was that deep into the bike to change the shock I'd install an EU tank. Got one off fleabay UK and had it shipped. Gives the bike an added 1.5L of gas capacity. So a few more miles range.

One thing lacking is a better brake line guide to keep the brake line from hanging up as the fork telescopes.

I have some Renthal bars and some grips and acerbis handguards coming, but I'm a bit concerned that the clutch cable is a little short. I wanted the bars because they are wider, but they might be a little too wide for the length of the clutch cable.
I went with the HDB hand guards and top clamp w/ some Pro Taper Pastrana FMX bend. Hoping all the cables and such are long enough. I used to have the Woods High Bend bars with the TT risers on my old 01 Dakar and all the cables fit. They were 30.5" wide but with the 1" risers too.
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:14 PM   #3580
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Got one of the trickier elements of my build done today. Thanks to folks here posting up info and answering questions I was able to get the ignition switch mount fabbed up by a local machine shop.

The shop made me two of them if anyone is in need of one send me a PM. I got a spare that I'll part with for a few bucks

I'm using a set of triples off an '03 YZ250F with an Applied Racing top triple. Here they are from the pic on fleabay. You can see there is a little nub there on the front for mounting a number plate or something.


Using the specs posted up in this thread I got a local machine shop to make me an ignition mount out of 1/8" alum. plate. Came out pretty nice IMO.


Ground off the bumb. nub and drilled and tapped the triple for the new ignition plate:




I still need to pull the bearings and swap them out for the All Balls YZ bearing kit I picked up.... will do that this week while waiting for a few more parts that should arrive this week.

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Old 03-25-2013, 08:59 AM   #3581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
.......................
I just received my Ohlins rear shock Friday and it will be installed this week. I had no idea what a pain in the ass installing a rear shock is on this bike. The entire rear subframe has to come off as well as the fuel tank.
.........
in case you need to get in again, it can be done:- remove exhaust, release sub frame bolts and open wide

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Old 03-25-2013, 09:16 AM   #3582
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This is how I did it. You'll have to remove the seat and exhaust and take the ECU out to give enough space for the subframe to swing. If you have ABS, you'll need to take the knob off of the preload adjuster to be able to snake it out through the plumbing behind the motor. Watch out for the little ball bearing that falls out when the knob comes off.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #3583
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lifting the rear subframe

remember to release the rear brake reservoir when you lift up. Just tie the brake reservoir to the front..
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:58 PM   #3584
Schlug
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Originally Posted by Kainic View Post
Did you do anything special on the steering stops? Make sure you post some pictures.

Steering stops are done the same way as the Aussie's have done it-- drilled and tapped the Yamaha stops and inserted a bolt. We thought that the bolt head may need to be shaved a bit in order to go original lock-to-lock but that was not the case.
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"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:03 PM   #3585
Schlug
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Originally Posted by tomatoe333 View Post


This is how I did it. You'll have to remove the seat and exhaust and take the ECU out to give enough space for the subframe to swing. If you have ABS, you'll need to take the knob off of the preload adjuster to be able to snake it out through the plumbing behind the motor. Watch out for the little ball bearing that falls out when the knob comes off.

Wow, guys, been nice to see that before-- ha! But the shock is in. Ignition plate made and installed.

I hope I never have to go back in.
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"So what makes this protest different is that you're set to die, Bobby?"
--May well come to that.
"You start a hunger strike to protest for what you believe in. You don't start already determined to die or am I missing somethin' here?"
-- It's in their hands. Our message is clear. They're seeing our determination.
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