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Old 07-03-2013, 07:23 AM   #3946
Barnman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TobyG View Post
I'd probably just use some thin sheet metal to "offset" the holes (or at least 2 or 3 of them) to match the ones from the brake disc.
Another idea would be to bend 2 of the tabs around the hub itself, drill and tap two corresponding holes in the hub et voila, however, not sure if that'd be a good idea.

Touratech simply didn't attach them at all, as they got their tach signal from the front wheel (makes me wonder why my Oryx still has the sensor and sensor ring, as my tach signal also comes from the front wheel??).



Or just ditch it, get a different speedo and get your signal from the front wheel


Oh and here you can see the "spacer" between the sprocket carrier and the sprocket. (Note: that's not my Oryx, but a friends' , mine has the stock hub):

Cheers Toby

One mod leads to another and I would love to drop to swap the dash for something lighter and less bulky but where do I stop with this bike and anyway I have a nice new touring screen that I wouldn't be able to put to use . So for now it will have to stay. It will never be an Enduro or modern rally bike but it is a fantastic adventure bike

oh, and if you measure the thickness of that spacer when your mate isn't looking that would be great.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:33 AM   #3947
TobyG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnman View Post
Cheers Toby

One mod leads to another and I would love to drop to swap the dash for something lighter and less bulky but where do I stop with this bike and anyway I have a nice new touring screen that I wouldn't be able to put to use . So for now it will have to stay. It will never be an Enduro or modern rally bike but it is a fantastic adventure bike

oh, and if you measure the thickness of that spacer when your mate isn't looking that would be great.
It's a bit on the heavy side for a (pure) competition bike, anyways, even if you make it a couple pounds lighter...nontheless I love mine :P


Ahhhh...about measuring that plate....that would be a 400 mile drive, I reckon
I will probably stop by him in a month, but other than that, I'd say just measure the width of your stock GS hub up to the spot the sprocket usually goes, do the same for the other hub, calculate the difference and you should be done.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:41 PM   #3948
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Quote:
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Not doing too well on the creativity about fitting the ABS ring. I hate bodges, so I need a solution that's fit for purpose - How are your creative juices - any suggestions?


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Old 07-03-2013, 12:47 PM   #3949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
My sprocket carrier bearings broke up (race and all) before 60,000kms and I noticed wear in the cush drive which I think was at least part of the cause of the bearing breakup
Mine also seized up along with the ones in the rear wheel, but that was after completing a loop of Australia and then finishing off by "playing" in the mud in Otway national park which I'm sure didn't help. My sprocket carriers all have a little wear from the rubbers, but not much. I replaced the rubbers at the same time as the bearings... at around 40K km's or so.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:52 PM   #3950
GSBS
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Sprocket Carrier Bearings...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post
Mine also seized up along with the ones in the rear wheel, but that was after completing a loop of Australia and then finishing off by "playing" in the mud in Otway national park which I'm sure didn't help. My sprocket carriers all have a little wear from the rubbers, but not much. I replaced the rubbers at the same time as the bearings... at around 40K km's or so.
FWIW, I bought my bike with 4k miles on the clock and the bearings were still in decent shape front and rear when I sent the hubs off at 72k miles to have Excel rims laced on them. However, I went ahead and had them install new bearings while they were reworking the wheels.

One thing I've always been careful of was to thoroughly clean and seal with new grease on each tire change (and with dual sport tires that averaged around every 4K on the rear or sometimes less). Maybe I was just lucky, but never had any bearing issues.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:10 PM   #3951
racergirl479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbySands View Post
How much for the cat?
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:52 PM   #3952
Barnman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker View Post


You just had to do it Gravel Seeker didn't you

no...no...no...I must resist

.....but they are nice
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Old 07-04-2013, 09:34 AM   #3953
Damian_74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnman View Post
You just had to do it Gravel Seeker didn't you

no...no...no...I must resist

.....but they are nice






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Old 07-04-2013, 07:04 PM   #3954
racergirl479
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I cant get the base valve out of the yz forks... any suggestions?
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Old 07-04-2013, 10:19 PM   #3955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racergirl479 View Post
I cant get the base valve out of the yz forks... any suggestions?
Not sure what you mean. Base valve? Are you trying to unbolt the brake line?
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Old 07-05-2013, 02:23 AM   #3956
WayneC1
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Compression Valve at bottom of forks, they use a high torque setting on it, higher than WP and it can be hard to remove

Suggest a little heat and then see how it goes
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:16 AM   #3957
racergirl479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Compression Valve at bottom of forks, they use a high torque setting on it, higher than WP and it can be hard to remove

Suggest a little heat and then see how it goes
Yep, that's the one... ill spray it with something and let it soak, then add heat and see if that does the trick. Thanks!
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:24 AM   #3958
racergirl479
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Had an "ah ha" moment. got the base valve out. got the local shop making me a spacer and crimping it in for me. I decided not to do this myself, because if I mess it up, i'm screwed. if they mess it up, I will still end up with replaced parts at no cost. Once I get that back with the spacers installed, ill be buttoning them back up.

I also decided to check my valves while I was replacing a few gaskets last night. They seem a little tight so I may end up getting new shims while i'm at it.

I ordered a Galfer brake line, 58" long. We will see how that works when it comes in.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:35 AM   #3959
racergirl479
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Alright. Ive got everything I need... this weekend it will happen.

should I go with 5w fork oil...?
also, what is the torque setting for the base valve?

Thanks!
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:05 PM   #3960
michael1968
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Location: Newcastle, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racergirl479 View Post
Alright. Ive got everything I need... this weekend it will happen.

should I go with 5w fork oil...?
also, what is the torque setting for the base valve?

Thanks!
I went with 7.5w with the standard valving, it works well.
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