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Old 11-23-2009, 06:38 AM   #796
BMacW650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
Once you asked, so was I.

The assembly I have sitting here consists of forks, triples (minus the handlebar clamp caps and counter-nut), axle, stock wheel spacer, little plastic shield that I couldn't attach to the new triple, fork brace and brake line clip. My forks are the earlier version without the extra metal around the axle holes.

Total weight according to a hospital scale: 28.5 pounds.
This brings up a good point. When I used the racetech spring rate calculator. I picked the year/model of my YZ and enter the weight as ( wet weight of BMW- wet weight of YZ + rider weight).

I should really be doing, ( weight of BMW - weight of BMW fork/triple + weight of YZ fork/triple - Yamaha weight + rider weight).

Does that make sense?
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:42 AM   #797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650
This brings up a good point. When I used the racetech spring rate calculator. I picked the year/model of my YZ and enter the weight as ( wet weight of BMW- wet weight of YZ + rider weight).

I should really be doing, ( weight of BMW - weight of BMW fork/triple + weight of YZ fork/triple - Yamaha weight + rider weight).

Does that make sense?
Sure it makes sense... But I'm none too certain that the two or three kg difference in fork weight is going to make for any realistic change in the spring rate.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:52 AM   #798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dump-a-thump
ws

let me know if you have any mods to your handlebars, and i will try my best to remember to measure tomorrow. do you prefer yamaha routing or bmw routing?
No mods to the bars...
I am going to use Yamaha shin guards on the forks.. so I will need to use Yamaha routing... Thanks so much!
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:55 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel
I don't have ABS... and was hoping for someone that has done it, to tell what length to order. I want to have all my parts in hand, so i am not waiting on parts once i begin the project.
I have abs and the line i got was 37 inches centre to centre if memory serves me. Also i just got a standard braided stainless line, same as what was fitted to the dakar in the first place. I used one of those self build lines to get the routing at the fittings just right, used the yamaha routing. Am running the forks level with the top of the triples, it's ok but if i put the bike on the centre stand the line is tight. If you plan on replacing springs and running the forks an inch up in the triples the line length is perfect.

As for springs i just got an email back from richard at house of horsepower,
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard @ house of horsepower
I can make them, but the rates you want are way too stiff -- I made some 48- 56 for a 210 lb and were too stiff for him-- that is what I would rec for you-- 48-.60 will have a huge spike at the halfway portion of the travel-- let me know--
I'm going with what richard reccomends, he knows a hell of a lot more about spring weights than i do.

Will let you lot know how it pans out. Can't wait for the springs
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:15 PM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1
These are rough figures so far, a couple of BMW parts to check & the YZF is as per information in the post above, The KTM forks are 4357 not 4860's
The individual part weights, in kg's would assist in more accurate figures.
Each YZF fork leg is just under 10 pounds, I would guess 4.45kg. I left the handlebar mounts on the triple clamp, but I also have a TAG triple instead of the stock setup, so there is probably a small difference there.

I used a bathroom scale, but it appears to be accurate (I checked it against a known ten pounld weight and it was dead on)

So the YZF front end is roughly 2kg (4.4 pounds) lighter, that is a decent loss.

Thanks for the info.

Eric
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:16 PM   #801
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Eric

Thanks, yes the exact weight reduction is academic really, the real change is in the cartridge operation rather than plunger plus the lowering of COG with all that inner tube at the bottom & 2 to 2.5kg reduction is rather handy

I took 8 kgs out of my Dakar with staintune pipe & various other mods, even when I have additional tools etc loaded for travelling it is so much lighter to throw round, people comment on how easy it is to even pull up off the side stand. I am just used to it now & at times forget what a stock machine is like

BMW Fork leg complete is - 4.76 & 4.65 kgs (L & R)
KTM 4357 fork leg complete is - 4.38 & 4.19 kgs (L & R) with fork guards

Anyway, I have the component weights in spreadsheet & if anyone wants to add any component detail I am happy to do so & post more precise figures.
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Old 11-23-2009, 08:30 PM   #802
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Wayne,
When you lightened your bike, did you use the stock headlamp??
I was considering ditching the Headlamp/instrument cluster and going with a Trailtech Vapor, and a UFO headlamp.

How loud are the Staintunes? I have Staintunes on my R1100S and really like them for the street, but I don't want an obnoxiously loud dirt bike....
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Old 11-23-2009, 09:21 PM   #803
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The staintune is a nice sound without being loud & meets our registration regulations here, even non motoring friends have commented it sounds nice It is enough to improve awareness in traffic

Re headlight, mine is still stock & very poor design really

My weight reduction is from pipe, single seat, alloy bars, rear peg removal, replacement brackets under the skin, chain guard etc, chipped away at it bit by bit.
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Old 11-23-2009, 10:17 PM   #804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1
...., replacement brackets under the skin, etc, .....
replacement brackets under the skin???

What's the etc??
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Old 11-24-2009, 02:43 AM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc mad
\a
I have abs and the line i got was 37 inches centre to centre if memory serves me. Also i just got a standard braided stainless line, same as what was fitted to the dakar in the first place. I used one of those self build lines to get the routing at the fittings just right, used the yamaha routing. Am running the forks level with the top of the triples, it's ok but if i put the bike on the centre stand the line is tight. If you plan on replacing springs and running the forks an inch up in the triples the line length is perfect.

As for springs i just got an email back from richard at house of horsepower,

I'm going with what richard reccomends, he knows a hell of a lot more about spring weights than i do.

Will let you lot know how it pans out. Can't wait for the springs
where did you get the diy brake line kit? trying find one for future refrence but hard come buy at right price
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:07 AM   #806
WayneC1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmotten
replacement brackets under the skin???

What's the etc??
Well each time I pulled the covers off to work on it I would find another steel spacer or bracket where truthfully an alloy spacer or bracket would do so I made replacements. It is quite surprising how much they weigh in the end. Also turned some into captive screws an example is the fairing bolts.

As for the etc well just an indication I cant recall every one but have it all in a spreadsheet. You could safely say I became a little obsessive but it has made a difference in the feel of the machine. A little weight removal from the top of the machine makes a big difference
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:09 AM   #807
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if there is another run let me know i am looking for the ABS bracket
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Old 11-25-2009, 12:09 AM   #808
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ws

sorry for the delay, on my Dakar with WP forks (pretty damn similar to the yamaha ones) a 51.5inch hose would fit (with absolutely no extra length at full turn). I used vacuum line to measure, as I currantly have the abs unit installed.

The crapper with the GS is there is so much tupperware on the bike and the options for routing the hose are all compromises. If I were to toss the abs unit (not likely until the daughters get more experience with handling a heavy bike) I would likely zip-tie a small diameter pex-pipe (gray water-supply pipe) down the left side leg, then route the cable down thru it, and directly to the caliper. Then you could have the extra hose (caused by fork compression) slide up thru the pipe and into the air above the instrument panel. It actually makes for very clean routing (similar to the G450x). This would require a longer line. The current routing makes the cable deflect outwards along the lower fork legs (the only Yamaha conversion I have seen also does this).

On an aside note, I have also removed some bits of fairing, so you may require a slightly different route.

To get a hose, rather than your do it yourself kits, any hydraulic shop will be able to make up the hose in 5 minutes, and then you will get the exact size and bend of fittings, new copper washers, and properly crimped hoses. Its actually a big deal, crimping hoses. Too tight and you crush the hose bracing, too loose and the fitting weeps. I'm used to concerning myself with the 6500psi hose-pressure of the equipment at work, the few hundred psi in a brake line isn't as much of a concern. Except if you actually really, really need that fist full of brake and the line pops and you die. Which would be shockingly embarassing considering that its not going to save you a cent by getting a kit, rather than having a shop do it for you.

BTW, all the weight in the front end of the original BMW fork is in the yokes. Depleted uranium. Word.

dump-a-thump screwed with this post 11-25-2009 at 01:00 AM
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Old 11-25-2009, 03:30 PM   #809
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john aero, i got the kit off ebay, its a venhill kit, well when i say a kit it means i bough the banjo fittings and the hose seperatly form the same supplier
It's not a crimp together kit, i did look at those and considered them to be unsuitable for me. I bought a kit which screws together, the hose has two captive nuts with seals and the banjo fittings are threaded to accept them, simply fit the banjo fittings, attach the hose and tighten it all up. No issues other than a dodgy copper washer. The setup is very similar if not identical to the goodridge build a line system.

One advantage of this is that i can just order a new hose in the lengh i need (if i need to change it when the new fork bits arrive)

On the subject of fork bits, i've been emailing richard at hoh pretty much all week and feel like i'm hounding the guy, but he's come through. Not only has he recomended the correct weight springs, he's also recomended that i lower the front end by and inch. Essentially my setup will be a carbon copy of rad's setup.

But to top it off he's also going to supply the valve stacks to suit my weight, all i have to do is fit em to the base valves. To say I owe the man a beer or three is an understatement.

For comparison i emailed a company in the uk to see if i could get the springs done over here, i got a respone to phone them which i did and left my number, no respone since then. If anyone in the uk wants progressive springs, go to house of horespower


Great, that's now a 12k service / major teardown and fork rebuild in the works

Good job i get a few days off over christmas to do it all in.


Is there anything that it'd be prudent to replace while i've got the forks in bits
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:11 PM   #810
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[quote=WayneC1]Eric

Thanks, yes the exact weight reduction is academic really, the real change is in the cartridge operation rather than plunger plus the lowering of COG with all that inner tube at the bottom & 2 to 2.5kg reduction is rather handy

BMW Fork leg complete is - 4.76 & 4.65 kgs (L & R)
KTM 4357 fork leg complete is - 4.38 & 4.19 kgs (L & R) with fork guards

quote]

Eric and Wayne,
Where I really felt the diffence was in the feel in the bars. It was a "lighter feeling" at low speeds when turning side to side. I think that was from the lighter tripples as much as anything but the lower CG always helps.

Rad
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