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Old 10-27-2008, 10:38 AM   #16
bigdon
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I'm hooked!
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Old 10-27-2008, 12:17 PM   #17
TedsGlobeStomper
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more please!!!
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Old 10-27-2008, 12:42 PM   #18
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Last night I tried to load too much and lost it all - will break it down smaller tonight.


Can't get good help anymore!!


.
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:59 PM   #19
Abenteuerfahrer
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Great report...keep posting....you're an inspiration to my planned upcoming trip to Alaska in 2009.

Abenteuerfahrer screwed with this post 10-27-2008 at 06:18 PM
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Old 10-27-2008, 05:42 PM   #20
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As I reduced the power for a stop light in Rycroft, the bike felt like it was going over rumble-strips (where there were NONE!) so I pulled over. The final drive bearing failed after 2700 miles on new bearings.



I used the MotoFizz bag as ballast as I did my "chiropractor adjustment" on the rear wheel - which actually groaned and growled when I turned it.

Fellow BMW rider, Scot Hutchinson, stopped to help me get all my gear to the hotel 2 blocks away and offered me the use of his shop in Grande Prairie, AB (35 miles south) to work on the bike when the parts arrived.

After pushing the bike to the hotel, I converted the room to a shop and "borrowed" the weight bench:



The Big Black Beast of Burden (B to the 4th power) assumes the "front lean and rest position" for 6 days right outside my window. That is the afterburner nozzle hanging down!:



The bearing was "stressed out".



I ordered the parts and rebuilt the final drive - Mikie’s Wheel Inn, 780-765-3366 is nice and Les & Trudy Dika were great! (For the morbid details of the F/D see the post “The Final Drive from Hell”)


Back soon ....."Yes Dear, be right there..!"
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:15 PM   #21
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After 6 days in Rycroft, I was finally off to join the Alaskan Highway in Dawson Creek.




I stopped at the great welcome center at Dawson Creek and proceeded north on the Alaskan Highway #97. At Wonowon (milepost 101), I stopped with another rider for a drink and what did I see - oil coming out of the final drive on the wheel lug (left) side – not from the main seal! I looked in vain for a puppy pissing 90 Weight gear oil on tires!!




I turned back to Walmart in Fort St. John where I rebuilt the F/D (in the parking lot) with Permatex #1 to try to stop the leak coming around the aluminum spacer/axle between the crown gear and the smaller tapered bearing. The spacer/axle isn’t supposed to be separated from the crown gear, or loose, or leaking! Consequently, I spent the night at Fort St. John. I soon quit pouting and cussing and started the analysis which continues until today!

The next day, enroute to Liard River Hot Springs, I saw this at Toad River, he had a complete long block in the spare parts pile in that trailer - gotta love a Packrat!




The Campground at the Liard River Hot Springs is perfect for bike camping – you can jump in the springs and then the shower and walk across the road to the lodge for dinner.







Of course, I had to stop at the Sign Park at Watson Lake – on the NW side of the park is a nice visitor’s center with picnic tables out front.




Time for a Captain Morgans tranfusion! Back soon!



.
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:54 PM   #22
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I headed NW past Teslin to Johnson’s Crossing which has a gas station & campground. STOP HERE: The food is fantastic – and the campground is nice and clean.

I found a hotel in Whitehorse, where I met Randy & Susan Powell who were on a Goldwing. He had a very well-done video installation on the bike, and sent me a great video of his Alaska trip after I got back to Texas. (see ride2up.com)

Whitehorse was the first indication for me of the alcohol problem in the Indian population. The Alcohol Rehab center was right next to an entire building dedicated to the Fetal Alcohol Syndrome. This hit close to home for me since I had recently worked on a child death review where FAS was the cause.

It is a nice town which has several motorcycle dealers, a great visitor’s center, a neat stern wheeler & SS Klondike. This Visitor Center is well done also with lots of History on the stern wheelers during the gold rush. And the airport has a DC-3 as a weather vane on a pedestal.





This is a classic view of the Yukon River - wide, fast and full of history.



Bill caught up with me that afternoon shortly after 3 riders, Eric Cleveland (the 40-Mile Desert Rat” who had just finished a run from the southern tip of South America to Prudhoe Bay), Jim Walker and another California bandit named Dave, woke me up from a nap in the park next to my GSA just to say “Howdy” as they were leaving.


Bill & I headed west on Hwy # 1 to Haines Junction where we caught up with the same 3 riders and shared dinner with them at the Alcan Inn.

A popular sign:



Looking Southwest from Haines Junction:




Did I mention construction???/


Get used to it!!


.
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Yungas Rd.-Bolivia, Alaska '08 - Labrador '10 -
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:31 PM   #23
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North to Alaska!
At the border there were the required photos near the signs.








Then, onward to TOK where we stayed at Thompson’s Eagle Claw Motorcycle Campground. Proprietors Vanessa and Brian Thompson were kind enough to let us pre-position our Knobbies there and use their compressor to mount them. They are great folks at 907-940-5558








I met another former Marine GSA rider Bruce Raabi, who had just come down the Laird Hwy and said it was getting better (10 days since I made my decision to wait). Tom Richardson of Bremerton WA was also there….the place was full of ADVRiders! The Grumpy Griz restaurant at the intersection of Hwy 2 and the Tok Cutoff (Hwy 1) is outstanding! Try the pork chops and pie…. Ever seen any bad pie?



We were off the next day to Delta Junction.



There is a bumper sticker in Alaska that says "There is not a single mosquito in Alaska - they are all married with huge families!" This one had a transponder and registration number!!







More film at 11.....


.
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:45 PM   #24
RoyB
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Great ride report!

Nothing like an Alaska trip ( www.motoalaska.blogspot.com ) I did it in 06.

I can't believe what we put up with on these BMW motorcycles. Amazing amount of grief for two bikes on a single trip............

Waiting for more!
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:24 PM   #25
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On our way to Fairbanks, by a stroke of luck we found the Fox Creek Bed & Breakfast in Fox. This was the best place we stayed the whole trip! I recommend you give Arna and Jeff Fay a call (907-457-5494) whenever you are heading up the Dalton. They are great people who love bikes and snow tractors. Not only have they been up the Dalton many times, they were willing to let us store any extra gear we didn’t want to haul up the Dalton! The down side: I gained 5 pounds on Arna’s cooking!! She will cook whatever you want for breakfast!








We prepared to go to Coldfoot and Deadhorse with light rain (big surprise - not!) We launched out and when we got to milepost 111, I made the “Point-of-No-Return-walk-around inspection” (either go all the way to Coldfoot or back to Fox) and I find this:





When I pulled the Mag plug, there were chips on it.


Result? I decided that going north with a sick F/D is not smart, and since I fixed it the previous 2 times with the OEM spacers, I assumed I must have screwed up something, so I decided to get the dealer in Fairbanks to fix it. Turning around, we started south – sort of pissed off. We met 6 riders heading north, waved, and noticed they were on rental bikes (R1200GSs and KLR650s) from Anchorage. After dropping the bike off at the dealer in Fairbanks, we went to Rent-a-Wreck for a four-wheeler to drive to Anchorage where we would meet the wives, who were on their way from Dallas.

On the way south a day or two later, we saw 4 of the same riders at the lookout for Denali and we were saddened to learn that one of their group had a fatal accident between the Yukon River and Coldfoot. His son stayed to handle everything and the other riders sadly just refueled at Coldfoot and headed back south to Anchorage. They said they thought he had hit something in the road and had gone down the embankment and breaking his neck on impact. Never underestimate the Dalton Highway! It can be great when it is dry and treacherous when it’s wet.





We stayed in Wasilla one night on the way to Anchorage, where we awaited the flights with our brides aboard. I fell in love with about a dozen aircraft at Hood Lake and went shopping at Alaska Leathers at least twice! We got the required “Don’t Ride Naked” sticker, of course.

One of my favorite aircraft:





Back soon - "Yes, Captain"


.
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Rigor Mortis will be the first indication that I've grown up!!
Yungas Rd.-Bolivia, Alaska '08 - Labrador '10 -
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:30 PM   #26
idea man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackRat
North to Alaska!
At the border there were the required photos near the signs.






This place should be part of the U-Haul corporate slide show
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:37 PM   #27
1reddawg
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:51 PM   #28
10guy
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Great report, sorry about the "issues" you had but without them what would the adventure be

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Old 10-27-2008, 08:59 PM   #29
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Having the wives fly up in the middle of a 6 week trip was a good idea. We had a great weekend and ate way too much seafood. We stayed at a very nice B& B, which was sold just after we were there, so I don’t know if it is still open.


Judy & Bob



Bonnie & Bill


We drove down to Seward (Some of the Seward Highway sunk 8 feet during the 1964 earthquake), saving the rest of the Kenai Peninsula and the Alaska coastal sites for when Judy and I go back for a trip in the vehicle or on a cruise.



We toured Exit Glacier and Independence Mine, cutting short our trek to see Mt. McKinley since the ceiling was too low to see much of anything.





Of course, we had to purchase souvenirs in Anchorage the last day: No sales tax: WooHoo! (Can you tell Judy added this last sentence?!)





Soon the wives were winging their way home and we headed back to Fairbanks to pick up the bike at the dealer, once again stopping at the Fox Creek B&B.


.
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"Packrat" IBA# 11205, AARP, ATP, CFI, A&P, USMC
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Rigor Mortis will be the first indication that I've grown up!!
Yungas Rd.-Bolivia, Alaska '08 - Labrador '10 -
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:42 PM   #30
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The next morning we were off and running for my second attempt at the Dalton. I felt better knowing the BMW Dealer had rebuilt the FD but by mile 72 the F/D was leaking again – so much for blaming myself – the dealer didn’t get it fixed either!



I estimated I could get 500 miles out of the bearings so we continued and I finally made it to the Yukon River.



Yukon River visitor's center:



Intermittent rain, of course, made the road very muddy and slimy = slick in some places (for like 35 miles at a time!), however I kept the camera zipped up!



Who the hell said "Construction?"



You must stop at the Hotspot Cafe 5 miles north of the Yuko River. I forced myself to eat the strawberry rhubarb pie right out of the oven!



It seems that Air Logistics' pipeline security chopper knows good food also!
Police helo pilots are chow hounds!


.




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