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Old 10-28-2008, 01:30 PM   #31
Rapid Dog OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnszilla
You choose which circuit is switched or unswitched by easily moving the fuse to one side or the other. It's brilliant.
Cool...which the centech ore Fuze? or both?
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:35 PM   #32
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Sorry. FuzeBlock. http://www.fuzeblocks.com/
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:47 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
Cool...which the centech ore Fuze? or both?
The Fuzeblock circuits consist of three pins lined up in a row. Deciding if it's switched or not switched is as simple as moving the fuse to the left or the right.

The Centech has hard soldered circuits. When you wire it up you decide which "bank" gets switched or not switched and then wire your accessories accordingly.

Both fuse blocks require three wires, a Battery +, a switched + and a ground.
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Old 10-28-2008, 01:51 PM   #34
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Thumb Fuzz Box

...dang! I'm in!
talked to Curt at Fuzeblocks.com:

'Hi Randy,


Thanks for the email. The main advantage to the fuzeblock is that the relay is built in to the unit and any output can be switched or constant. With the Centech AP-2 you will have to either wire your own relay or buy their AP-2 Relay kit ($35) and wire it into the AP2. With the fuzeblock you wire three wires to the unit and you're ready to go. You'll wire a battery positive and ground to the unit and then tap a switched wire on the bike to feed the +VT input on the fuzeblock. That input turns the built in relay on and off with the bike.


The AP-2 is a great unit and came out right when I was developing the Fuzeblock. It's a great unit but they have 3 outputs that are constant and 2 outputs that are switched. With the fuzeblock you have 6 outputs and you can any combination of switched versus constant outputs simply by positioning the fuse in the desired output position.'


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Old 10-28-2008, 02:11 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hotspice
AHAAAAAAA, I think I found a flaw

Not really but I gotta ask, your relays aren't screwed to your battery are they?

I believe they are Tony. The cover comes off the battery and you can put a nut on the back side. Then return the cover to the battery.

I wonder where his grounds are all attached?
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Old 10-28-2008, 04:41 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
...dang! I'm in!
talked to Curt at Fuzeblocks.com:

'Hi Randy,


Thanks for the email. The main advantage to the fuzeblock is that the relay is built in to the unit and any output can be switched or constant. With the Centech AP-2 you will have to either wire your own relay or buy their AP-2 Relay kit ($35) and wire it into the AP2. With the fuzeblock you wire three wires to the unit and you're ready to go. You'll wire a battery positive and ground to the unit and then tap a switched wire on the bike to feed the +VT input on the fuzeblock. That input turns the built in relay on and off with the bike.


The AP-2 is a great unit and came out right when I was developing the Fuzeblock. It's a great unit but they have 3 outputs that are constant and 2 outputs that are switched. With the fuzeblock you have 6 outputs and you can any combination of switched versus constant outputs simply by positioning the fuse in the desired output position.'

That is pretty cool! I like the arrangements. My only concern is if the relay goes bad you can't replace it.

Then again, it looks like you could probably switch to always on to get you home.

Jim
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Old 10-28-2008, 05:24 PM   #37
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I just put in a fuzeblock a couple of weekends ago. I'm very happy with it. I put it on the back of the air filter.

Where would I find some liquid rubber to seal up the back of it? That's the only part of it that really bothers me. I did ride in some pretty heavy rain last friday with no issues. Short term, I cut on old innertube from one of my dirt bike and covered the back with it, but it looks kinda sloppy, would like to find a really clean solution for it.
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:04 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubergeek71
I just put in a fuzeblock a couple of weekends ago. I'm very happy with it. I put it on the back of the air filter.

Where would I find some liquid rubber to seal up the back of it? That's the only part of it that really bothers me. I did ride in some pretty heavy rain last friday with no issues. Short term, I cut on old innertube from one of my dirt bike and covered the back with it, but it looks kinda sloppy, would like to find a really clean solution for it.

Here's some.

Liquid Tape

http://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Dip-Int.../dp/B000M2W1HG
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Actually it is an expandable mesh tubing, IIRC. Nice stuff.

As for water in the fuse box, under the seat is is not an issue at all. Even at the base of the tank vertical it isn't. Though some water might drip on it, I have not seen one short out.

I would suggest, however, sealing the back with a liquid rubber coating in case an errant screw or peice of metal might fall under it.

Jim

Correct. I did use expandable mesh tubing, in 1/4" and 1/2". The stuff isn't available at Radio Shack. You'll have to find it at an electonics surplus or a big electronics distributer like Newark.

I agree Jim. Water is just a non-issue for the fusebox, when it's under the seat our out of direct water flow. However, I did solder and shrink wrap every connection and used waterproof connectors on all my wiring. By the time water on my wiring is an issue, I will have far more serious immediate concerns - like drowning.

Someone asked where my grounds are, when looking at my relays. The only ground needed on a relay is for the switching connection. Both sides of these are routed through the fusebox.

Although I didn't follow it exactly, here is the wiring diagram I made up before doing my wiring project last winter. If you really want to see, check this hi-res PDF link to the snapshot below.



Also, the fuzeblok is pretty kewl. It looks like a great solution for the less complicated wiring solution. My next small bike with less farkles is likely to get one of those from me.
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:27 PM   #40
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Mac!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac
Right behind the tool tray, which was filled with the Autocomm and heated gear controller.

http://www.mattmccabe.com/mod-fuseblock/

http://www.mattmccabe.com/mod-wiringharness/

... and while you're at it, do yourself a favor and keep the wiring clean.

I am impressed! "Clean" is an understatement.

I invoke AdvRider rule No. 462 that obligates the inmate to expand a description of what you have going on in the picture. Please.


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Old 10-29-2008, 05:58 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
Any comments/pros/cons on the Fuzeblock in comapro to the Centech?
Weather-wise or otherwise?
I wonder if the relay is available seeing how it does not look like a standard relay from a autopart store

I stilll don't get why everyone runs all the wires to the seat/battery area instead of running one feed up front , then mounting the realys, fuse block, ect ect up there, then you only have one cable running from the battery that distance to the front, I suppose it all depends on what everyone is running and where they mount that stuff though.

I put everything (relay's and fuse block, I still have the centech) in a small plastic project box behind our windscreen on a shelf, it powers the hid ballasts, the piaa's, autocom, sirius, gps and the gmrs.


oops! , the only other thing running off the battery is the power for the gerbing heat controller

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Old 10-29-2008, 06:09 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmgs
I wonder if the relay is available seeing how it does not look like a standard relay from a autopart store

I stilll don't get why everyone runs all the wires to the seat/battery area instead of running one feed up front , then mounting the realys, fuse block, ect ect up there, then you only have one cable running from the battery that distance to the front, I suppose it all depends on what everyone is running and where they mount that stuff though.

I put everything (relay's and fuse block, I still have the centech) in a small plastic project box behind our windscreen on a shelf, it powers the hid ballasts, the piaa's, autocom, sirius, gps and the gmrs.


oops! , the only other thing running off the battery is the power for the gerbing heat controller
Mostly because it is UGLY to have it exposed, and hiding the wiring is harder when you have it snaking all over, plus there is not much room for a clean install that allows easy access to the fuse box for additional accessories without having to redo all the wiring to make it neet again. (deep breath)

Plus, like you found out, the need for wires near the seat means you have to run some back that way, or run more off the battery, which is why you have a fuse box in the first place.

Anyhow, if it works for you that is cool. Have pictures?

Jim
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Old 10-29-2008, 06:17 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmgs
I stilll don't get why everyone runs all the wires to the seat/battery area instead of running one feed up front , then mounting the realys, fuse block, ect ect up there, then you only have one cable running from the battery that distance to the front, I suppose it all depends on what everyone is running and where they mount that stuff though.
It's really not that big of a deal. Whenever I wire a bike up I take the tank and body panels off and run one split loom to the front of the bike. Inside that split loom I usually have 2 or 3 positive and 2 or 3 negative feeds. I might not use them all at once but they are there and I can work off of them as the farkling evolves.



Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Anyhow, if it works for you that is cool. Have pictures?
+1 on the pic..
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Old 10-29-2008, 01:23 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
Mostly because it is UGLY to have it exposed, and hiding the wiring is harder when you have it snaking all over, plus there is not much room for a clean install that allows easy access to the fuse box for additional accessories without having to redo all the wiring to make it neet again. (deep breath)

Plus, like you found out, the need for wires near the seat
means you have to run some back that way, or run more
off the battery, which is why you have a fuse box in the first place.
, the only reason I have the gerbings powered right off the battery is for easier power, we have one pigtail there that connects to the dual controller which we carry on our jackets, (used to be be because of multiple bikes)
Quote:

Anyhow, if it works for you that is cool. Have pictures?

Jim
no, but I could take some, I do have a pic of the front of the bike just showing all the gadgets on hers, one thing I couldn't hide was the dang antenna wire for the sirius radio, I'll say he did a fine job of runing all the wireing on that bike

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Old 10-30-2008, 08:12 AM   #45
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...what size wires is best to use in general. 14G?
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