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Old 04-23-2015, 11:01 PM   #1
pne OP
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Motorcycle chains vs Industrial chains

From my research, it seems like 530 chain is the same as #50 industrial chain.

I'm curious because #50 chain is sold in 10' lengths for $25 locally. If it were feasible to use this on my dirt bikes I would have a very low cost solution for chain replacement.

Has anyone tried this? How about running 530 chains with 520 sprockets? I'm not very concerned about the non sealed chain. I like being able to power wash a chain clean, spray it down with WD40 and be done with it.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:24 PM   #2
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:25 PM   #3
willis 2000
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you cannot lube industrial chain enough to make it last. same with your 530/520 setup. all chain on motorcycles
must be sealed, less ya wanna '70s broke guy vibe.
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:33 PM   #4
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I can remember doing that way waaay back in the 70's, bought chain from an industrial supplier for much less than the local MC shop charged...but no way I'd do that now, modern O/X/Z ring chain from a quality supplier (like DID, etc.) is well worth what it costs, lasts much longer and is far stronger than the generic stuff. Safety is an issue too, back in the day had a chain break, wrap around the back wheel and lock it up...stopped safely but had the circumstances been different might have been hurt or worse.
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Old Yesterday, 04:14 AM   #5
Woody2627
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Many years ago, I remember this discussion. My understanding was that industrial chain rollers were a bit of flat steel wrapped around the pin, whereas bike chain rollers were solid tube, if you like. Bad description I know, but a huge difference in quality.
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Old Yesterday, 04:40 AM   #6
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We used to use industrial chain back in the '70's too, much cheaper than being ripped off at a bike shop for the same thing and the nice packet it came in. I still use non O ring - get 2 lengths, still cheaper than one from the bike shop....one is cleaned and soaking in gear oil, drain it, then pull it through with the dirty one.
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Old Yesterday, 04:57 AM   #7
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You guys never had the tins of Duckhams chainguard that you heated and left the chain in then hung up to drain?
Messy and dangerous if you got side tracked and forgot the grease was on the cooker.

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Old Yesterday, 06:38 AM   #8
D.T.
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You can buy the standard chain for your bikes too. I tried it on my SV, ONCE.

Chain was toast after about 500 miles. Turned into a kinked mess.

I tried a $60 O-ring chain from Amazon, holding out pretty good so far!
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Old Yesterday, 10:27 AM   #9
mouthfulloflake
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been running standard chain on my daughters XR80 for a few years now.
works just fine, on this small lightly loaded application.
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Old Today, 05:05 AM   #10
BOB RAMSAY
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As teenagers we did this once, back in the 70's, on the big power houses like the 100cc Hodaka Kombat Wombats. The chain lasted an hour or 2. During that hour it stretched enough to be adjusted every 20 minutes.

Get you wallet out and buy a matched set of O or X-ring chain and sprocket set before your cheapo chain breaks and wraps around your ankle.

Also, never put a power washer directly on your new $100. chain. Use a stiff bristle brush - and not force dirt into your new sealed chain.

And since we're talking about doing dumb stuff - keep the WD40 off the new investment. It will dilute the chain lube and drip the chain lube onto the floor - but it will be a clean looking MFr. Added bonus - you'll reduce the chain life about 80%.

Install and properly cared for, adjustments are few until the end of life. Depending on HP and riding style "the set" should last 100-200 hours. (off road) Maybe longer. Keep lubed - better a little often than over-lubing and covering your luggage with sticky lube.

Since your touring the USA and state " I don't know what I'm doing" let me give you a trip tip:
when you replace a chain, replace the sprockets.
When you replace the sprockets, replace the chain.
A worn sprocket will kill a fresh chain and vice/versa.

If I was touring X-continent, I'd start there and with fresh tires. (No cheapos...)

Just get your wallet out already. Good luck!
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Old Today, 05:40 AM   #11
D.T.
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You can power wash and WD all you want with a standard chain.

BUT you want to do just the opposite with an O or X ring chain. That shit blows all the grease out of the O-rings and then your $125 chain is junk in no time.

Be careful cleaning O-ring chains. Don't clean them at all if you can, maybe wipe off the mud once in a while.
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Old Today, 10:20 AM   #12
pne OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOB RAMSAY View Post
As teenagers we did this once, back in the 70's, on the big power houses like the 100cc Hodaka Kombat Wombats. The chain lasted an hour or 2. During that hour it stretched enough to be adjusted every 20 minutes.

Get you wallet out and buy a matched set of O or X-ring chain and sprocket set before your cheapo chain breaks and wraps around your ankle.

Also, never put a power washer directly on your new $100. chain. Use a stiff bristle brush - and not force dirt into your new sealed chain.

And since we're talking about doing dumb stuff - keep the WD40 off the new investment. It will dilute the chain lube and drip the chain lube onto the floor - but it will be a clean looking MFr. Added bonus - you'll reduce the chain life about 80%.

Install and properly cared for, adjustments are few until the end of life. Depending on HP and riding style "the set" should last 100-200 hours. (off road) Maybe longer. Keep lubed - better a little often than over-lubing and covering your luggage with sticky lube.

Since your touring the USA and state " I don't know what I'm doing" let me give you a trip tip:
when you replace a chain, replace the sprockets.
When you replace the sprockets, replace the chain.
A worn sprocket will kill a fresh chain and vice/versa.

If I was touring X-continent, I'd start there and with fresh tires. (No cheapos...)

Just get your wallet out already. Good luck!
thanks but that trip was last year..

I'm putting a chain on my $800 kdx 200 backup bike that may not see 50 hours a year. I ended up with a non sealed but moto specific chain, for $20.
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