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Old 12-10-2008, 02:19 PM   #46
Muggins OP
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Yeah, seems out of order, not sure how that happened. Oh well.

Not going to return her, got a really good deal I do love it overall. Just need to get her properly dialed in. I bought the bike knowing that it has low miles (only 5kmi) but had sat for a while. The dealer (Suzuki dealer) put a fresh carb kit on it which was ordered from Husky Sports (reputable northern UK dealer). My guess is the guy either ordered the wrong needles/jets or didnt spend as much time as they should have really dialing it in. I'll try your recomendation below and see if it helps.

Thanks for the explanation on the pilot screw. Can you be a little more descriptive on the "engine note rises to a peak" comment? While revving at 2k rpm, the flat head screw does increase or decrease the rpm, I need to adjust it until it "smoothes" it out right? Or will there be a point where the sound of the engine reaches its highest pitch (but not alter rpm)?

Also, normal tickover should be around 1000 rpm or so?

Cheers for the help on my n00b carb ?'s. I can just remember being a kid on my PE250 (yeah, I was only 13 when I rode that pig), tweaking the crap out of the carb adn sequentially fouling plugs, backfiring like hell and getting stranded out on the trail a few times. All in good fun tho .
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Old 12-10-2008, 02:45 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggins
The TE610E in 00 came with a 17l tank stock in AU (I believe)
Correct
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Old 12-10-2008, 03:03 PM   #48
Pampera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggins
Yeah, seems out of order, not sure how that happened. Oh well.

Not going to return her, got a really good deal I do love it overall. Just need to get her properly dialed in. I bought the bike knowing that it has low miles (only 5kmi) but had sat for a while. The dealer (Suzuki dealer) put a fresh carb kit on it which was ordered from Husky Sports (reputable northern UK dealer). My guess is the guy either ordered the wrong needles/jets or didnt spend as much time as they should have really dialing it in. I'll try your recomendation below and see if it helps.

Thanks for the explanation on the pilot screw. Can you be a little more descriptive on the "engine note rises to a peak" comment? While revving at 2k rpm, the flat head screw does increase or decrease the rpm, I need to adjust it until it "smoothes" it out right? Or will there be a point where the sound of the engine reaches its highest pitch (but not alter rpm)?

Also, normal tickover should be around 1000 rpm or so?

Cheers for the help on my n00b carb ?'s. I can just remember being a kid on my PE250 (yeah, I was only 13 when I rode that pig), tweaking the crap out of the carb adn sequentially fouling plugs, backfiring like hell and getting stranded out on the trail a few times. All in good fun tho .

Just get the engine running steadily at the highest rpm it will get to without tweaking the throttle.It will just sound 'right'. We are talking tiny adjustments here.

Then back the big screw out until the tickover is back to normal. 900 -1100 rpm. It's personal preference as much as anything.

I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of popping on the overrun: check for leaks in the exhaust, but it may just be the cats lighting off.
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Old 12-11-2008, 06:36 AM   #49
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Well... just did some adjusting and testing......... and she's much happier now.

Warmed her up properly. Twisted the big screw more than a full turn and got the revs up a little over 2k. Turned the little screw clockwise a slightly over a half turn till it sounded good then backed the big'un down until it was teatering just over 1k (which is where the tack on this bottoms out).

The only PITA was the big screw didnt have a slot or phillips head, but ridges for finger tightening. Its literally an inch from the exhaust, behind the fuel tap thingy and my fingers were not nimble enought to get in there. I could still adjust by pushing the ridges with the flat head, but it made fine tuning adjustments much harder.

Result - Throttle was much smoother on the bottom (under 2k), better delivery cruising at around 4k-4.5k and some reduction in popping. Overall, much better. However, she still stalled once while coasting (clutch in) to a stop when I ever so slightly blipped the throttle. Started right back up before I rolled to a stop.

So, I went back to step one. I got the revs up a little higher and turned the little screw back less than a 1/4 turn to get it singing. Damn this thing is sensitive! When I backed the idle screw down to normal idle, I went a little lower so the needle rested on the 1k mark. Felt like it was struggling in the low RPM and stalled under similar circumstances 2 blocks from the house. Again, started right back up. Once back in the lot, I simply turned up the idle to about 1100 again and it sounded better, but I didnt do a full test.

So, the ham fisted tuning I did today solved most of the issues. I'm still not quite satisfied as it is now, but I think properly setting the idle a touch higher right at 1100 will solve it. When I get a chance to get to my friends garage and access to better tools, I'll be able to do more fiddleing.

Thanks again Pamp!
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Old 12-11-2008, 01:42 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampera
You have just tuned your slow-running passage!
If you guys are talking about a Delorto carb, would you think this proceedure would work on other Delorto equipted bikes?
Thinking about my Guzzi.

PS: I have not taken delivery of my 610 yet.
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Old 12-11-2008, 03:40 PM   #51
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yes, i do believe I was tooling on a Delorto
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Old 12-12-2008, 05:21 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc
If you guys are talking about a Delorto carb, would you think this proceedure would work on other Delorto equipted bikes?
Thinking about my Guzzi.

PS: I have not taken delivery of my 610 yet.

Yes it would, but with cerrtain caveats. I don't know how old you bike is or what model it is, but I used to work for a big Guzzi dealer back in the day of the Le Mans MkI and II. So what I'm saying here is just what used to work back then and on UK models. American market bikes may well be different (I recall reading in Cycle that American market Guzzis had the adjstment screws varnished up so they could not be adjusted for some legal reason or other).

Anyway: here goes.

Setting the carbs is the last job to do when servicing a bike. Before you start make sure the ignition timing is spot on, tappets correct, plugs are good etc.

Your Guzzi is a twin, each carb is a mirror image of the other.

The first thing to do is to synchronise the carbs, so they both open at the same time. You can gat vaccum guages to do this job, but the method I use involves a wooden clothes peg (pin in America).

Take this apart so you have 2 identical pieces of wood. Throw the metal spring away.

Take the carb bell mouth or air filter hose off on both sides and carefully slide the pointed end of the clothes peg's halves flat side down under the carburettor slides. Then watching both, gently nudge the throttle.

Both halves of the peg should move at the same time. If they don't then use the carb top cable adjusters to get them so they do. Leave enough slack in the cables to prevent the engine revving up as the handlebars turn from side to side. Take the clothes peg out and reattach the bellmouths/filters

The easiest way to set up the individual sides to to treat the engine as 2 singles. So take the spark plug out of the head and ground it on the side you are not working on. Then follow the process as outlined above for the Husky. Do this out doors because of the danger of fumes. Make sure the gounded plug doesn't ignite the fumes that will eject from the plug hole

When you've done both cylinders separately, you will probably need to back the tickover off very slightly when it runs as a twin. Turn both big screws (one on each side) exactly the same amount.

The golden rule is to always make small adjustments throughout the process. Remember how far you have turned each screw each time. A quarter turn is a major adjustment. Don't even attempt the task if you are angry or distracted.With an air-colled engine you may need to stop and let it cool during the tuning process: the engine should be at working temp: not too hot or cold.


Good luck!
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Old 12-12-2008, 07:51 AM   #53
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Dear Pampera:
The cowboy carb sync with the clothes pin is friggen BRILLIANT.
I use vac guages to sync. in the shop but this is a great procedure to know if you should need to replace a cable or similar while on the road. Another way to do this is to place your fingers, one on each slide, and have an assistant turn the throttle. My Sport is a 96 and the carb adjustment seals disapeared somehow, not sure where????? Even though I have re-jetted pilot jets and changed slides the bike still has hesitation off idel. I will be trying your idel circut adjustment soon. Thanks a million!
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Old 12-12-2008, 08:29 AM   #54
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Thanks mate,

It's amazing what you can think of when you are poor...and it looks like we're all going to have to start thinking like that again soon!
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:12 PM   #55
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Does anyone have a pick of an 00-04 TE610e rear sub frame?

The 98-99 dual sport model does not have the mounts for the rear rack, so I'm assuming the sub frame is different.

Follow up - will an 00-04 sub frame bolt on to a 99 frame? How about the 06< sub frames?
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:49 PM   #56
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Oh, and FYI - just noticed this bad boy on fleabay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Husqv...Q5fAccessories

"5 Gallon Acerbis Tank for 00 TE 610." Can't be sure, but me thinks that's George from Uptite??? If I didnt have one on the way already, I'd be all over it. Mine is 17L = 4.5 gallons, so not 100% sure its the same thing. This one is in far better condition than mine tho...
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Old 12-17-2008, 12:26 PM   #57
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Soon to take delivery of a 00 Te610e. Anybody got any one liners regarding things to check and look out for before launch. (You know besides: are the wheel round and the handle bars should face to the rear) Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2008, 04:55 AM   #58
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Bluhduh

Congrats Fritz! Welcome to the club!

I'm the noob that started this thread, so I can't offer as much wisdom as HuskyFatMan or HuskyTE610E. Other than the basics (DO NOT forget to check the brakes...its an easy one to skip), I would check that the cam chain is properly adjusted and make sure the clutch cable is kosher. Lots of clutch cables went on these early on, but luckily mine had a new one and I had the dealer make sure he checked the cam chain, replace ALL fluids, etc. etc.

Also, not sure if you're bidding, but check out that Acerbis/Husky tank on ebay (link above in previous post). I just got mine this morning and the thing is friggin sweet. $650 buy it now is steep, but for the deal I got on my bike (and I hope you got on yours), the net price still works out to a better deal than a lot of the other 600 level thumpers in this price range IMHO!

Also, Fritz, if you could do me a HUGE favor??? When you get around to it, could you take a quick snap shot of the underside of the rear sub frame...basically the section that the rear rack bolts on to? My 99 has a shorter subframe with no rack .
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Old 12-19-2008, 06:28 AM   #59
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggins
Congrats Fritz! Welcome to the club!
Also, Fritz, if you could do me a HUGE favor??? When you get around to it, could you take a quick snap shot of the underside of the rear sub frame...basically the section that the rear rack bolts on to? My 99 has a shorter subframe with no rack .
Sure thing. Delivery is sometime next week. Now I MUST get set up to post photos!
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 01-02-2009, 05:53 AM   #60
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Man, this thread got burried...

How's the bike, Fritz?

I'll be installing my 17l tank this weekend and I'll try to take some pics. FYI - also bought myself a Shoei Hornet for my own christmass present and am bidding on Sidi Cossfires to match - both white. If I can find a white pressure suit, I'd have my halloween storm trooper costume all set too!!
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