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Old 12-05-2008, 02:54 PM   #46
arrcrussell
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Location: NE OH, USA
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OK, you got me! Where can I order the TM40 already set up?
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:18 PM   #47
badcooky
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Sudco has the kit with all you need but jetted to the outhouse.
Or you can haunt Ebay or search the dirt bike forums for one.
They aren't jetted anywhere near right but we can get you close enough.
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:27 AM   #48
Sycamore
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I ride in desert / soft sand 100% of the time so the bike gets dropped more than I'd like (dunes etc). A flooded carb every time is no fun (kicking 20 times in hot desert) so i run the edelbrock for that reason.
Before, with old carb, drop the bike 2 or three times on the dunes and you're finished for the day.
With the Edelbrock, i drop the bike, pick it up, first or second kick and I'm away. So it does exactly what i want it to.
In fact the bike even runs on its side, if i pull the clutch and pick it up it just keeps going.
It has plenty of power for dunes, it replaced the stock carb and I can't tell a difference in power between the 2, but the power delivery seems a bit smoother on the edelbrock. No big deal though. I still climb dunes in the same gear / revs as before with stock carb.
My 650R is running opened up Staintune muffler so the bike breathes a bit better than stock, other than that, no major mods.
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Old 12-06-2008, 06:34 AM   #49
K2ride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
FCR's come in two body styles, (as well as differant bore sizes) the OEM style and after market style. The OEM version has the spigot and air boot adaptor cast in with the body. The after market type has a threaded spigot and air boot adaptor that can be removed. However they are put on with red loctite and can be tricky to get off. The FCR's that are original equipment on any of the Japanese bikes are almost allways the OEM style. KTM has a mixed bag of OEM and after market. The good news is that an after market FCR from one bike can be adapted to a different make and model by changing the spigot and boot adaptor which you can get from Sudco. Sudco charges about $50 each for these so your second hand carb has to be cheap for it to stay a good deal. The OEM FCR's may or may not fit from one bike to the next so it's a try before you buy kind of a thing.
You seem to know your business!

I'm upgrading my halloween ride (03 640adv) with a 660 cam, porting, work on the valves, removing the balancer shaft coupling & possibly the magic button ensemble as what pertains to the engine
& going minimilistic with the rest of the bike ...right down to the Exon Valdeez tank. (long winters up here)

&...
Last but way not least,
an FCR41 ..off Ebay or an inmate, if possible; winters=high heating bills=byebye KTM Canada & Sudco.

Don't want to hijack the thread with a KTM but do have FCR41 CARB questions.


So,

-What should I be considering as to serial numbers of Keihin FCR41 pumper carbs that will best fit an 03 640Adv
or how can I quickly spot one from a few pics?

-What's needed to fine tune the carb with a performance slipon or a complete TI system?

-What else could be required for an easy install (cables/collars/rubber boots/ etc..)?

-Can a FCR39 be easily moded to a 41 status?

&...
I'll get my ass kicked for this one but what the heck,

-What about the TPS ''thang''; needed or not?
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:20 PM   #50
badcooky
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Most every MX bike made in the last 5 years will have an FCR of some description,and they all respond very alike to jetting changes.
I just don't understand why the fookers are so expensive.
Sure they are the bomb but there's so many of them out there.
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:50 PM   #51
tarzan30
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i have the eddy carb. i love it.. i have never ridden another so take that how you will.

will standup in third at 100k no problems..

stage 2 cam
high comp piston
uncorked stock pipe
K&N filter and hacked air box

this bike runs very well ..

and no jets to mess with just a dial to adjust.

it is very easy to change but maybe not a high performing as the others that have been mentioned.

Im happy.. and when i fall it still starts up after a couple of kicks.

Cheers
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:10 PM   #52
joenuclear
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I think a lot of people like to work on their bikes. I like to ride mine. I've got the Edelbrock with a Revloc clutch. I did a lot of research and decided the carb is the easiest to adjust for altitude. My XR makes enough power for the D/S riding I do. The Revloc helps me in the tight, steep stuff and if I drop the bike it doesn't stall if I pick it up in about a minute.

Some very good D/S riders have taken the Edelbrock on some very long rides and they swear by them.
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Old 05-06-2010, 07:14 PM   #53
badcooky
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Yep Joe for a stockish bike from what i hear the eddy is fine, it's when they're worked a bit they start to struggle to deliver fuel from the bottom to the top.
Is an old thread but carby stuff never changes..
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Old 05-06-2010, 08:44 PM   #54
V-rider
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Ooh - old thread resurrected...

I bought a used TM40 off ebay that I'm getting set up for my XR650R. (Carb used to be on a Harley). Made a spreadsheet with all the jetting info that I have found here and there. Trying to find an average and get in the ballpark with the jetting before I put it on. Bought the jets, adapters, etc. from Sudco.

When I get mine set up, I will post my jetting specs for anyone that is interested. If I can't get it set up like I want just using jetting specs off the internet, then I will put my A/F ratio meter on to get it spot on (might do it anyway for the heck of it - just takes more work).
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Old 05-07-2010, 05:15 PM   #55
XRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-rider
I bought a used TM40 off ebay that I'm getting set up for my XR650R. (Carb used to be on a Harley). Made a spreadsheet with all the jetting info that I have found here and there. Trying to find an average and get in the ballpark with the jetting before I put it on. Bought the jets, adapters, etc. from Sudco.

When I get mine set up, I will post my jetting specs for anyone that is interested. If I can't get it set up like I want just using jetting specs off the internet, then I will put my A/F ratio meter on to get it spot on (might do it anyway for the heck of it - just takes more work).
If you are close to sea level to around 2500 feet and you've got an uncorked but mostly stock XRR start with a 140 main, 20 pilot, needle in the 3rd groove.
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:13 PM   #56
V-rider
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Thanks Xrider!

I just happened to put in the 140 main and 20 pilot - needle on the 3rd groove. I'm in MI, about 900ft. I'll give it a try. Thanks so much for the input.

Was going to put the carb on tonight but I forgot about the throttle cables. I hear that some people cut them and solder on new nipples. Last time I tried that was 20 years ago and I didn't have much luck. Maybe I'm better at it now...

I also heard that there are throttle cables out there that fit already. Does anyone know which cables to order?
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:57 PM   #57
XRider
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I've always used the cables that come with the kit from Sudco. They sell the cables without the kit also.

One last thing, disable the pump while you're tuning the carb. It will make it much easier. Lift the white plastic pump lever and pull the pump rod out from the top (don't lose the little rubber boot). You also want to check the pump nozzle to make sure it's aimed correctly. Fill the float bowl and look inside while you open the throttle. Be sure you are looking in from the air cleaner side. The pump shot should hit the needle. If it doesn't use needle nose pliers to turn the nozzle, it's held in with an o-ring so it will turn easily.

Once you've got it tuned and you've reconnected the pump, post back and I'll tell you how to set the pump timing and duration.
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Old 05-07-2010, 09:24 PM   #58
V-rider
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Dang - should have added those to my Sudco order...

Oh well, I guess all I'm out is another shipping charge...

It will be a while before I see the cables, I'll post back later.
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:16 AM   #59
RideFreak
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Check the pump nozzle, Harley spec'd carbs usally come with a #70, that's going to be too big for the XRR. 45 or 50 is much closer to what you'll need.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:28 PM   #60
V-rider
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OK - I modified my throttle cables - couldn't wait...

Got the bike running. Just rode it on the street in front of my house for a second. Seems to run fine except the idle is too lean. Needs choke for a long time.

My idle mixture screw is turned out 3 turns and I tried some more on top of that - but still too lean.

I sprayed for vacuum leaks but didn't find anything obvious.

I thought I put a 20 pilot jet in, but I actually have a 22.5 in there.

My pilot air jet is a 1.2.

What do you guys think? I think I'll try my 25 pilot jet? I had an experience with my old Bandit 1200 that was similar. I put in too small of pilot jets and the idle became too lean. No amount of idle mixture screw would make up for it.
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