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Old 05-25-2010, 03:40 PM   #91
XRider
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I have no idea if the LC4 cables will work on the XR. Your best bet would be to use the LC4 throttle with the cables and give it a try.
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:07 PM   #92
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Just cut the stockers and braize it all back together it's a no brainer.
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:03 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-rider
I remember hearing about the propane method before. I have never had the opportunity to try it - until now.

But I took the carb back off yesterday because I was tired of the high idle. After I got it off I happened to notice that the throttle stop screw on the top was still holding the slide open a little even though I had the idle speed screw on the side backed all the way off. I backed that top screw out until it didn't touch anymore. I am going to go thru the carb again and make sure all the passages are clean before I put it back on.

For the meantime, I put the stock carb back on so I can ride the bike. Perfectly smooth idle. Must be something with that TM40...

Also, I will post my mileage after I get the TM40 working. Right now with the re-jetted stock carb I am getting 43mpg around town.
If your TM40 isn't idling well, it's probably the setup or it's dirty, the carb correctly setup idles easily as well as the stock carb. I did a dirt/street loop (180 mi) riding in adv mode, 65ish on the hwy and cruisin on the dirtroads, it's getting 48mpg jetted for 6K'. I've had the carb on for a couple months now and the starting is much better than stock, 99% of the time it's one kick cold and hot. Every once in awhile I inadvertantly grap the throttle when it's not running and manage to give it a squirt causing it to flood a little, 3 clearing kicks with the comp rel in and it fires right up, same drill for a crash. I hear the FCR is just as good starting wise. Once you get it dialed in right, you'll be pretty happy with the way it works on the bike and wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

We used to make custom cables for various bikes, it's actually pretty easy to shorten one, make sure you flare the cable strands as they come out of the hole in the end lug and use silver solder to secure it heating it with a propane torch so it flows inbetween the strands well. We had access to new cable ends so that helped, I've not tried to reuse one of the end pieces yet.
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:04 AM   #94
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I got it all sorted out - sweet!

Took the carb back off and blew out all the circuits. Must have had some crap in there somewhere because it's running fine now. Still a tiny bit lean right off idle but maybe only I would notice because I'm picky.

Someone asked about mileage with the TM40 - my last tank gave me 55mpg! With the rejetted Keihin carb I was consistently getting 43mpg around town. What an improvement!
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:42 AM   #95
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Nice work! What jets and needle clip position did you end up with?
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Old 05-31-2010, 07:09 PM   #96
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This is what I ended up with:

Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
Nice work! What jets and needle clip position did you end up with?
This is what I ended up with:

N100.604 #140 Main Jet
9DJY01 Jet Needle (3rd notch)
568 Y-4 Needle Jet
VM28/486 #25 Pilot Jet
BS30/97 1.1 Air Jet
TM36/43-0.3 Accel pump nozzle
accel pump set to squirt right after the slide begins to rise just slightly, in other words pretty early

Without putting my air-fuel ratio meter on I would say that it's just about perfect. However, because my mileage increased so dramatically I wonder if I might be a little on the lean side in the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle range??? If I suddenly close the throttle a little I don't get any surge or anything like that at all. I guess it's probably good to go.

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Old 05-31-2010, 08:09 PM   #97
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Sounds like you got it right. If you were a bit lean you'd get a lot of poping when you chop the throttle. Sounds like you've got your pump timing right also. You want the pump shot to start just as the slide starts to move up and aimed so it hits the needle and not the back of the slide. The duration of the pump shot should end at about 3/4 throttle.

Don't you just love grabbing a handfull of throttle with that carb, it makes the big XR bark hard.
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:09 PM   #98
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You are pretty close to what I had on my xr when I sold it. I don't know what your head/muffler/cam setup is but I ran a 27.5 pilot with 1.2 air jet with the screw at 2.5T out and the 01 needle at clip 4. This produced around 12.5 a/f at idle and cruising throttle range went up to about 14 a/f. Clip 3 gave better mpg but clip 4 pulled slightly better.

Also a 140main with a cam/full exhaust/open air box in Michigan at 500ft gave me around 12-12.5 a/f at wot . If you aren't running something close to that you may be able to drop the main 1. From everything I seen, most people don't need bigger than a 140main but I always see people using larger ones.

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Old 06-02-2010, 08:58 AM   #99
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Maybe I'll raise the needle one notch...

My bike is stock except for the de-restricted intake boot, some holes in the side cover, and just the center core hole-sawed out of the muffler insert.

There is the slightest amount of surging if I hold the throttle steady at cruise so I think I'll raise the needle a notch to richen her up a bit.

Then again maybe I'll just ride it. Much more fun to ride.
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Old 06-02-2010, 04:19 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-rider
My bike is stock except for the de-restricted intake boot, some holes in the side cover, and just the center core hole-sawed out of the muffler insert.

There is the slightest amount of surging if I hold the throttle steady at cruise so I think I'll raise the needle a notch to richen her up a bit.

Then again maybe I'll just ride it. Much more fun to ride.
If you feel you need a slight increase in the midrange (needle) the plastic washers that are positioned above or below the needle clip are there to be used for 1/2 step adjustments.
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:29 PM   #101
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If it's surging freak i'd just go a notch richer to clear the lean condition completely,for safety you know.
Veerider it does sound very close though with those settings.
Kan when they run the bigger main they seem to run a smaller pilot in the TM.
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Old 06-03-2010, 03:22 PM   #102
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I took the XR up to 10,100' this weekend, first time I was able to check it out at any real altitude with the TM40. It did well (started nicely and no adverse running issues) but you could tell it was a little fat on the jetting. We normally ride 5.5K' to 8K' and it's pretty sweet at that altitude.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585125

I'm planning a solo ride up in CO. in Aug and I'll be hitting 12K+. My thinking is a one size drop on the pilot and move the needle down 1/2 notch will put me where I need to be for that ride. Right now I'm hoping to leave the main where it's at, I know it's going to be fat for that altitude but the ride will be loaded on mountian passes and I doubt I'll be on the main jet for the offroad sections as I'll be alone and doing some technical riding. I'm thinking the larger main will be some insurance in the event I have to jump off the trail and do some road riding, I'd hate to end up riding any distance on the road with a lean running motor.

With the big tank and other dualsport add-ons I want to avoid rejetting en-route, what are you guys doing on ride with large altitude changes?
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Old 06-03-2010, 05:55 PM   #103
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When I have to I just loosen the clamps on the carb and rotate it so the bowl is pointing to the left side and swap the jets. Needle changes on the side of the trail are a pain so I avoid them. Most of the time I jet for what the bulk of the riding will be done at and live with it not being perfect at the altitude extreems.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:58 AM   #104
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRider
When I have to I just loosen the clamps on the carb and rotate it so the bowl is pointing to the left side and swap the jets. Needle changes on the side of the trail are a pain so I avoid them. Most of the time I jet for what the bulk of the riding will be done at and live with it not being perfect at the altitude extreems.

With the battery located above the c/s sprocket and the safari tank it's real close, I pretty much have to pull the tank to get at the bowl but I agree, jet as close as you can for the ride. Until I hit the high alt areas on the Rockies (13K') it's going to be a guess as to what's going to be best jetting-wise.
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Old 06-04-2010, 10:35 AM   #105
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Can't leave well enough alone...

So I got curious and wanted to see what raising the needle one notch would do for me - with the thought that I wanted to be a little on the rich side for valve longevity. The very slight part throttle lean surge is no longer noticeable. It may be all in my head, but it seems to have slightly more vibration when accelerating at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle now - where before it seemed to rev up surprisingly smooth. Maybe that very slight lean surge wasn't that bad, and I'll go back to the smooth revving, great mileage needle notch... Or maybe it's time to put on my air-fuel ratio meter and really get picky.... I guess I like to fiddle as much as I like to ride?

For anyone that is considering a TM40 don't let my rambling picky-ness put a damper on anything. The jetting configuration I posted earlier (thanks to all the pioneers before me) will get things running awesome if you are around 1000ft. And it's probably good for quite a bit higher elevation than that from what I've read here lately. Way better than even a re-jetted stock carb.

And the one kick cold starts are great too. I hate kicking it 3, 4 times and looking like a loser (no offense to anyone that kicks theirs a lot.)

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