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Old 12-27-2008, 10:11 AM   #136
Dave-in-Turkey
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Hi Meto, great report and fantastic photos, I fancey a trip over the border myself - could I ask where you got the Carnet in Turkey and what was the deposit.

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Old 12-27-2008, 01:38 PM   #137
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This is one of the greatest report i have ever read. Thanks to you all brothers. I hope we can cross our roads in somewhere fır new journeys...

and
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Old 12-28-2008, 12:12 AM   #138
meto OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-in-Turkey
Hi Meto, great report and fantastic photos, I fancey a trip over the border myself - could I ask where you got the Carnet in Turkey and what was the deposit.

You can obtain your Carnet from Touring and Automobile Association.
http://www.turing.org.tr/

Carnet for Iran costed 150 YTL (about 100 USD with today's rate).
You also have to deposit 200 USD to the bank, whick you can refund when you return the Carnet.
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Old 12-28-2008, 01:28 AM   #139
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Thanks for the info Meto, that Carnet price is much better than I thought.

Cheers.


Dave
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:28 AM   #140
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[quote=meto]13 October, Monday
Shiraz (0 km)

I later learned that barbers used to pull teeth too in the old times./quote]

Barbers were also the surgeons in the old ages. That is why some still use the red/white striped pole as their shop sign in Europe. The red is for the blood they spilled.....

Great trip report!
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:39 AM   #141
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Great RR
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Old 12-28-2008, 03:04 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by TobaccO-tr
Great RR... Thx for you and your tyres

I saw your bikes kickstart in Istanbul. But not posible to met you.
We also saw your bike at Kickstart. It was still in the box.

I did have chance to look to your RR. Places that you have been were spectacular. I wish I can go someday.
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Old 12-28-2008, 06:59 PM   #143
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Very Nice! Thank you!
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:00 AM   #144
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15 October, Wednesday
Esfahan (0 km)


After the breakfast with other tourists at the hall of Amir Kabir Hostel, we hit the streets. First stop was Hakim Mosque, which is the oldest mosque in Esfahan (1000 years).



Then we walked to the Bazar-e Bozorg to get some saffron and surmeh. We were delaying this from the start, but it was time now. I made a killer bargain with the bazaris.



I couldn' t find really authentic stuff unique to Iran. Since, i don't have the room to strap auhentic Iranian rugs, i looked around for jewellery. Same stuff you can find anywhere in Turkey.

We made a stop at the Jameh Mosque.



This is a working mosque with a 800-year history. It exhibits some of the best Islamic designs from Seljuks, through to the Mongol period and on to the Safavids. At more than 20.000 sq metres, it is also the biggest mosque in Iran.



I could only capture the siestaing (is it a word?) molla with a tele lens.



Mete' s working on some neat angles.



After all this sightseeing and walking we were hungry of course. We walked to the Imam Sq. Fed up with kabab and burgers we found a different place and decided to give it a try.
It was a beryani shop which is unique to Esfahan.



The one on the left is like a metball and the one on the right is liver. It's cooked on a big wok pan with a liquid (water i guess).
While eating this, i was 100 % sure that i was going to be sick afterwards, but fortunately no harm done.

After this questionable meal, we found the proper qalyan house, which we took the directions from our friend Bulent, we met in Yazd. This place is not in the Lonely Planet book and it should be.





There was probably 5 million pieces of stuff in this shop from arrows to old clocks. Really authentic place.



They serve tourists behind the curtain, in a seperate place. We wanted to sit with the locals. Fruit juice and qalyan. mmmm...





We chatted with three collage students here. You are immidiately recognized in these kind of places. From what i understand, first they look at you in a shy way, then they argue among themselves about who to ask the first question, then comes the question. After the usual stuff, again comes the "How you like Iran ?" question. It makes them really happy to see a foreigner admiring their country.

We walked to our hotel after this. It was already noon, so everybody's in siesta from 13:00 to 17:00. This is a perfect time to spend in an internet cafe.

Esfahan was the last major point in our plan and from tomorrow we are starting our return journey. Maybe because of this, we decided to take the bikes out for tonight. We never did this because of the bad traffic. We had to take them from the parking tonight anyway, because the place opens at 08:00, but we need the bikes at 05:30.

We planned the trip til Esfahan. The rest was left to spontaneous decisions. We looked at the map for tomorrows ride. Tabriz was doable but unnecessarily long at the same time. So, we decided to stay one night around Hamadan. Close to Hamadan, there is Ali Sadr Caves and according to the book there is a hotel near the caves. We called the place from the reception and booked the room for tomorrow. We had to be there at 15:00 the latest to visit the caves.

We wanted to shoot some photos in the Imam Sq. before it gets dark, so we took the bikes from the parking in a hurry. Gendarmarie in the Imam Sq. let us in with a warning to go slow.





It was a little early for dinner, so we wanted to see the Khaju Bridge too. It' s a relief to go without panniers, in the Iranian traffic.



Arguably the finest of Esfahan' s bridges, Khaju was built by Shah Abbas II in about 1650. It' s also used to hold water.
Today it's a popular meeting place for young Esfahanis.

While it was getting dark Esfahani clouds were burning.



We returned to the Imam Sq. again and parked our bikes in the square. The nearby Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati was a nice stop for dinner.



Unfortunately, the wonderful and authentic decors, and the traditional vibe wasn't matched with the mediocre quality food.



After dinner, we layed on the grass in the square for a while. Then it was time for a full tour of the square.

It was said that, when French poet Renier described Esfahan as "half of the world" in the 16 th century, it was the myriad wonders of the square called Naqsh-e Jahan that inspired him. The description wouldn' t be out of place today. Naqsh-e Jahan means "pattern of the world". The square was designed as home to the finest jewels of the Safavid empire (Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque ans Ali Qapu Palace).



At 512m long and 163m wide, this immense space is the second-largest square on earth after the Tiananmen Sq. in Beijing.





After a little faq around the bikes we called it a night in order to rest for another long days riding.
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:51 AM   #145
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Simply beautiful country and pics!

Best greatings
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Old 12-30-2008, 01:50 PM   #146
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very beautifull pic´s!! thank´s hope for more
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:14 PM   #147
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Wonderful journey! Congratulations!

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Old 12-30-2008, 03:03 PM   #148
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Mate most impressive,its like another planet,excellent pictures as well,did I mention how much I am enjoying this.
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:53 PM   #149
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Wicked

Subscribed ! I'm hooked.
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:18 PM   #150
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This report is truly wonderful! Thank you for taking the time to document it all!


An interesting to note, in his newest documentary "By Any Means", Charlie Boorman stopped by that specific cafe! I didn't make the connection until the second time I read through today's update. Must be a rather famous place!
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