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Old 11-21-2008, 12:44 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by morriswf
Definitely interested in your impressions of westerners travelling there. If no time to include those impressions for possible future travellers, no problem.
There will be a lot of impressions while the report continues.
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:46 AM   #47
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By the way i've added maps to the previous posts. It will be easier to relate and plan future trips for you guys.
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Old 11-21-2008, 01:03 AM   #48
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Perfect trip, perfect ride report! Many thanks my friend...

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Old 11-21-2008, 01:15 AM   #49
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Nice report "neighbour"...

Great pics also.
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Old 11-21-2008, 04:57 AM   #50
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06 October, Monday
Tehran – Fasham – Dizin – Valiabad – Baladeh – Tehran (406 km)

We were on the schedule and up at 05:30 in the morning. According to our plan we are going to tour around the Alborz Mountains and Aydin will drop us to Ferdosi Hotel on our way back.
Aydin was a little anxious about being late to leave Tehran city. I think it's a thing about traffic. We stopped on the way to pick up Aydin' s friend Vehid. They were leading us with Aydin' s car. Just as we left the city mess, fabulous roads started immidiately. We made a couple stops for bread and groceries. We were so happy to choose this route among Tehran city tour. After ascending more we reached Iran's most popular ski resort, Dizin. It's the highest altitude we achieved during this trip.

Our view is briefly like this.

For 10 minutes we did nothing but inhale the view. Aydin took his popular tea kit out while we shoot some pictures.

Here's Aydin's trunk.


The pass road we are going to take after breakfast.

Aydin said he has known these dogs for 5 years now. They're so cute.

Nice view...

Vehid & Aydin

After Aydin made some tea, we put a chilled tune on the car's stereo and began our breakfast.

A family photo after breakfast.

We had a long road infront of us. Aydin said that we would reach 4500 m after a while. We joined yesterday's Chalus - Karaj road for a while then take the minor road from Valiabad. A little wc break.

After this, the journey to the heart of Central Alborz started. This area is an unexplored paradise for bikers. There' s no traffic. The scenery and asphalt quality is absolutely breathtaking.

We couldn't concentrate on the road because of the scenery and stopped frequently.

Everything was going so good and because being spontaneous, it was a great feeling. If it was to the number of curves done, i can easily say that we did the same amount of my last years Alps & Dolomites tour in this last two days. This road would be insanely famous if biking was legal in Iran.
Riding through tiny villages we were stopped for a routine passport control. At this point the maybe worst thing after a possible accident happened.
Mete said: "Hey, my hipbag's not here !!!"
Ingredients of the bag: Passport, driving license, Turkish id, bike's registration, about 1000 EUR cash & credit cards, ipod, cellphone and my bike's spare keys.
We both yelled "FUCK !!!!" silently of course.
Mete jumped in Aydin's car and they turned back to look around. I stayed at the police station with the bikes. They invited me to the chief officer's room. I had cramps in my stomach thinking what happens next.
They offered tea, apple and pomegranates. After telling our story, the chief went to another room. We started to practice Farsi, English and Turkish with the asistant chief who is 20 years old. I answered 100 questions minimum from my marital status to the bikes. After a while the conversation got quite funny (not in a funny way). Another low rank soldier came in and the asistant told "heh here's my wife."
Hmmm it's time to I constantly looked from the window but there was no sign of our crew.
Later we went outdoors to the yard. The asistant started to show off with the stick. He pointed it to me implying "Come and get this." I made a face implying "No, thank you. What a stupid child." Chief's sudden entry to the yard took the wind out of the asistant's feathers.
A minute later chief said something and i was out of the yard beside the bikes, threwn out.
They are highly unpredictable.
I couldn't stand waiting without any news so, told the guard that i will be returning with my bike too. After 10 minutes i saw the crew and the look on Mete's face was the answer to the mystery. After two hours of searching there was nothing. Hopes ran dry.
We returned to the PS and called the Turkish Embassy in Tehran. They told us to get a Police report saying that the passport is lost. Since we' re in a PS we thought that would be easy. Aydin explained the situation to the chief in Farsi. Thank god, i have no idea how we could ever done that. After 5 minutes of conversation, it was obvious that we are not getting the report from him. Aydin showed him the place that we stopped for a pee -which could be a possible point of the event- from the map. He claimed that it was another PS's jurisdiction, and we should take the report from them. After, he changed his mind and told us to go to Nur which was 200 kms away and take the report from the Poilce Centre. It was already 15:00 and we had 2 hours before it gets dark. Going to Nur would throw us 350 kms away from Tehran, so no chance. We decided to return to Tehran. The return trip was the most dangerous of my 10 years of biking history. A crazy video game ride. Aydin & Vehid drove like Michael Schumaer and we didn't want to lose them in Tehran city. Following them was a complete nightmare.
We checked in to a hotel and said goodbye to the boys . Thank you for everything guys, you were great...

Although there were tons of questions running in my mind, i couldn't help but fall asleep, because we were exhausted.
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:07 AM   #51
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it is never an adventure if you just ride,and have no trouble

zumo išin iran haritanız var mıydı? yoksa sadece rota kaydetmek išin mi
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:13 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by byker_tr
it is never an adventure if you just ride,and have no trouble

zumo išin iran haritanız var mıydı? yoksa sadece rota kaydetmek išin mi
Could't agree more. It's the trouble moments that makes a story after 10 years.

There is a map for Zumo which i didn't buy because it's only routable in Tehran. So, i used the World Base Map to record tracks and used it as a compass since major towns was showing.
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:18 AM   #53
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So beautiful!!

Too bad about your lost pack..... big headache....

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Old 11-21-2008, 02:26 PM   #54
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Great story, I am hooked on it. I can imagine losing a passport there. Especially with friendly police around

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Old 11-21-2008, 02:46 PM   #55
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NICE RIDE- GOOD PHOTOS-I am thinking of start asking a lots of questions since I am planning a trip to turkey on May 18th
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Old 11-21-2008, 03:25 PM   #56
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Great RR!

Waiting for more.....
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:41 PM   #57
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Great report and adventure, thanks so much for sharing with us!
2012 Ducati Hypermotard EVO/SP Corse
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Old 11-22-2008, 09:13 AM   #58
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Man, what a adventure.

I was screwed by a policeman in Kasachstan for not having a stamp. Yelling to me in a police office with two kalashnicov's next to my head. So I payed the 90 dollars they wanted.

I am curious what happens now and how much you have to pay .

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Old 11-24-2008, 04:26 AM   #59
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07 - 08 October, Tuesday - Wednesday
Downtime in Tehran (0 km)

We woke up at 08:30. After a quick breakfast we walk to the Embassy which was 5 minutes away. Waited outside till 09:30. I always keep the photocopies of the documents on the bike in a water-tight bag. This time they came in handy for Mete. We couldn't have gotten any room for him to begin with, if he didn't have his passport's copy. Also it accelarated the procedures in the Embassy.
We told yesterday's story to the guys in the Embassy. They explained that if eveything goes well, at the end we will have 3 to 5 days to leave the country. This was a showstopper. I couldn't describe how dissapointed i felt at that moment. Turning back from Tehran...all that preparation and most important the time we spared from eveything to arrange this.
They told that we should get the police report from a station in Tehran claiming that we lost the passport in the city somewhere. Because of the language barrier we requested assistance. Taking Murat along, we went to the Baharestan precinct. Asking 10 people Murat found the room but the guy was not there. After waiting 1 hour they told that we should go to the Security Department. Like always our guy there was not in his room again. Waited another hour then they told us to go to Baharestan precinct. We told that we were coming from there. Everybody was throwing us somwhere. Nobody wanted to deal with the issue. Lunch break was close so it was obvious that we are not getting the report. After lunch it's impossible to find anybody. We also had to check out from Ferdosi Hotel because there was room for only one night. On the way back we booked the rooms from Hotel Hafez and moved there.

While i hung around in the room, Mete went to the Embassy again. They said that they will give the travel documents first thing in the morning tomorrow. So, there's nothing to do but wait. We wandered around the bazaar, ate sandwiches and discovered the fruit juice. What a treat. Melon juice is my favorite. We constantly thought about the time that they will give us to leave the country. Whole trip depends on this.
We returned to the hotel and just lied down for a quick nap about 16:30. When we opened our eyes it was 07:30 the next day. Mete' s sunglasses was still hanging from his t-shirt's collar. We totally fainted out.

It was wednesday morning and first thing in our agenda was the embassy again. We got the travel document and the instructions for proceedings.
Then we walked to the Ministry of External Affairs with the documents given by our embassy. They computed the documents and told us to go to Foreign Aliens Department. We hopped on a taxi and gave the adress to him written in Farsi.
Everything was going very fast until they asked the fucking police report again. It had become our nemesis. No matter what we do, we couldn't get the report.
Mert, who's a friend of Mete texted me that his client Ibrahim will help us in any way he can and also gave his cell number.
We called Ibrahim and met him in front of the Security Department which we went the previous day. The guards at the entrance was greeting us "Hi Turk !" We were famous.
Lunch break time came and Ibrahim said we could wait in his shop in the Bazaar.
We made fun of the people who ride with 3 people on small motorbikes and told each other to take photos of these. Unfortunately, Ibrahim came with a motorbike too and we were in the same position now.

After 1,5 hours we went to the Security Department again and the guy that was going to handle the issue is not in his place again. They told us to come tomorrow. Another day was wasted. I was hoping maybe we could finish the procedures today and hot the road tomorrow. No, No, Noooo !!!
After lying down in the hotel a bit, we went outside to walk around. At on a bench for a while in Park Shahr.

We left the bikes on the street with disc and chain locks on.

After that we went to the hotel again. There wasn't any motivation to do anything. About 30 minutes later my cell phone rang and it was Aydin. He told me that he has been calling all day. The phone lines in Tehran are terrible. The signal was breaking. So, he called from the hotel 2 minutes later and gave the good news.

He came and picked us up from the hotel at 20:30 and we rode to Karaj (40 km) where the guy who found the bag was living. It' s really an incredible story how he reached Aydin. The night we stayed at Aydin's, Aydin wrote his contact information on a piece of paper. Mete didn't want to write it again so he took a photo of the paper with his cell phone. The guy who found the bag looked to the photos and saw that photo. He called the number and reached Aydin. The guy told Aydin that they are a poor family but they couldn't touch that money and should return it to it's owner. We were undescribably happy. We asked Aydin how much money to give to the guy. He said that he would say when he sees them.
When we arrived to the house Hadi Muradi and his father Kurban Muradi greeted us and invited us in their home. Another striking example of Iranian hospitality. They bring tea and offered us watermelon. After a brief chat Hadi bring the bag and nothing was missing in it. (Of course we didn't open it there not to be rude.) Aydin told us that 50 EUR will be ok. We insisted to pay more. We really didn't care about the money, all that matters was the passport. He said that 50 EUR is a lot of money for them, and persueded us that it's enough.

Hadi is the one between us.

Look at the gas line attached to the lamp. Natural gas is cheaper than electricity.

Nothing was enough for us to show our gratitude, so we asked for permission and left with wonderful memories.
Thank you again so much !!

Aydin dropped us to our hotel and we were drunk because of happiness.
After two days of captivity we were free to go, free to ride again.

Also another huge thank you to Aydin, who has been the saviour of this trip.
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:15 AM   #60
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Iyi seyahatler beyler. Uzaklardan takipteyim, paylastiginiz icin tesekkurler!


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