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Old 05-10-2013, 01:36 PM   #29641
EvilGenius
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This is just a guess, I am not a gunsmith.

But is it possible that with a tight, non-fitted (yet) slide you could get some valve lapping compound (like for a car engine) and put that on the rails and slide then spend an hour (or a few) running it back and fourth?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:47 PM   #29642
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I did a bit of research as the slide fits 'very' tight.. any thoughts on the best way to 'lap' it in?
Garnet lapping compound works well. I attended a 1911 build class with Bob Rodgers a few years back and that's what we used on our customs.

Get it here: Garnet Lapping Compound - Brownells

Ended up with this Dan Wesson CBOB homage when we were done:



Fun little 10mm beast.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:51 PM   #29643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
This is just a guess, I am not a gunsmith.

But is it possible that with a tight, non-fitted (yet) slide you could get some valve lapping compound (like for a car engine) and put that on the rails and slide then spend an hour (or a few) running it back and fourth?
Kind of what i was thinking, maybe some lithium grease. I was also thinking no harm in putting a box through it and see if it'll lighten up a bit. I guess the worse that will happen is it won't cycle if it's to tight?
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:54 PM   #29644
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Originally Posted by TexBiker View Post
Garnet lapping compound works well. I attended a 1911 build class with Bob Rodgers a few years back and that's what we used on our customs.

Get it here: Garnet Lapping Compound - Brownells

Ended up with this Dan Wesson CBOB homage when we were done:



Fun little 10mm beast.
Nice piece - i'll have a look at that compound.. thanks for the tip.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #29645
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I guess the worse that will happen is it won't cycle if it's to tight?
No, you could end up galling the frame/slide together and ending with a very expensive issue. Best to use a non-embedding lapping compound as mentioned in my previous post to prevent this issue.
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #29646
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Garnet lapping compound works well. I attended a 1911 build class with Bob Rodgers a few years back and that's what we used on our customs.

Get it here: Garnet Lapping Compound - Brownells

Ended up with this Dan Wesson CBOB homage when we were done:



Fun little 10mm beast.
Beautiful!
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Old 05-10-2013, 03:00 PM   #29647
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No, you could end up galling the frame/slide together and ending with a very expensive issue. Best to use a non-embedding lapping compound as mentioned in my previous post to prevent this issue.
duly noted - thanks again for your help.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:02 PM   #29648
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I use anti-seize compound on my Glock slide rails. They come from the factory with a copper paste on them, which I've been told is a form of anti-seize.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:02 AM   #29649
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Something to consider is that if you wear down the rails on the frame the original slide may become rather looser than you want. You should look at working the new slide and make it fit the frame rather than modify a frame that already has a good fit with the original slide. Using valve grinding paste will work both the slide and frame rails, not just the slide. What is the part that is hanging up? Is it the thickness of the slide rail, shallowness of the female cut or is the cut too narrow? Is it because of binding at the breach end of the barrel or is the barrel binding on the locking lugs in the frame? Is it possible that the new slide and frame are the same grade of steel meaning they are galling together rather than sliding? You should identify what the binding is from before you start taking away metal.

I like home gunsmithing but only when there is a knowledge basis to work from. Experimentation can get rather costly if you make a mistake. I might be a bit overly cautious but for me I'd rather pay a 'smith who know what he's doing rather than kludge up a perfectly functional gun. Even if he just gives advice on how I should handle the issue.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:28 AM   #29650
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Something to consider is that if you wear down the rails on the frame the original slide may become rather looser than you want. You should look at working the new slide and make it fit the frame rather than modify a frame that already has a good fit with the original slide. Using valve grinding paste will work both the slide and frame rails, not just the slide. What is the part that is hanging up? Is it the thickness of the slide rail, shallowness of the female cut or is the cut too narrow? Is it because of binding at the breach end of the barrel or is the barrel binding on the locking lugs in the frame? Is it possible that the new slide and frame are the same grade of steel meaning they are galling together rather than sliding? You should identify what the binding is from before you start taking away metal.

I like home gunsmithing but only when there is a knowledge basis to work from. Experimentation can get rather costly if you make a mistake. I might be a bit overly cautious but for me I'd rather pay a 'smith who know what he's doing rather than kludge up a perfectly functional gun. Even if he just gives advice on how I should handle the issue.
I don't disagree with you and it's not my gun, but I think he's intending for this to be the new permanent slide for the gun. If that's the case, then it should be fine for the frame rails to wear a bit.

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Old 05-11-2013, 02:41 PM   #29651
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Old 05-12-2013, 04:31 AM   #29652
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Next one...I dunno, depends what ammo I can round up. I have plenty, but won't shoot it unless I can replace it.
Then you don't have "plenty".


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Old 05-12-2013, 04:43 AM   #29653
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Then you don't have "plenty".


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Old 05-12-2013, 06:32 AM   #29654
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I don't disagree with you and it's not my gun, but I think he's intending for this to be the new permanent slide for the gun. If that's the case, then it should be fine for the frame rails to wear a bit.

Yep - i planned on it being the permanent slide.. so not overly concerned on a bit of frame wear.

motor31 - yes, i agree 100% as well, but as i said it will be perm. I have been working the slide quite a bit and it feels like it's 'loosened' up a bit from where it was. It seems with the hammer down it is much harder to cycle.. however, if i pull the hammer back and rack it.. it's seems almost perfect (albeit just a tad tighter than the stock slide). I'm going to use a bit of that Brownells lapping compound and take it to the range next week. I'll post up some results afterward, hope it holds at least the same grouping as before (if not better).
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:46 AM   #29655
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Guns for sale ?

Hi Guys and Gals,

Is there a Gun For Sale section anywhere here on ADV ?

Thank you in advance.
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