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Old 12-11-2012, 03:32 AM   #166
Grinnin
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Incredible perseverance!

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Amazing thoroughness.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:15 AM   #167
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Keep it coming Gwen. Looks great!!

You riding this electrical marvel to HM?
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:38 AM   #168
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Yes.

My deadline to have it rolling is no later than end Feb. but at this rate it should be rolling by the end of Jan.


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Keep it coming Gwen. Looks great!!

You riding this electrical marvel to HM?
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:42 PM   #169
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AUX fuel cell mounting system.

This was our first incarnation.




We agreed that the weight was too far back, so is what Steve suggested I do.
(or did today)


First, the reason it was mounted so far aft was that the bottom of the cell is not flat. To adderess this I was a 1"x3" aluminum tube in place of the stacked 1"x1"s.


Steve also suggested the way I put it on the mounting plate.





Test layout.





























More test fit.











































I might have time to finish putting this together tomorrow, not sure.


.
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Shoganai screwed with this post 02-16-2013 at 05:59 PM
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:28 PM   #170
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Ok...I couldn't stop with it so I finished the fab work.



































Tomorrow I'll take it apart and begin painting it.

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Old 12-11-2012, 08:44 PM   #171
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from the show us forum

Just a few random questions . Are you gonna TIG weld it or just bolt it, and are you gonna through some rubber bushing material between the frame and the tank? before you go farther what about dropping that notch into that so it drops that lower bubble, then its even lower?. Nice work through out your work. It does however show me why I got away from multi cylinder bikes, ,the last one I dug into like you have done with your BMW was a Honda Saber V45 lots of work and after a near complete teardown and rebuild , the following year it decided to eat a cam chain while I was riding down a highway from High River AB of all places,,
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Old 12-11-2012, 08:51 PM   #172
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I don't know how to TIG weld, and paying a good welder is spendy, so no on the welding part.

Final assembly will include never used nylon lock nuts and blue locktite.

Yes on the rubber cushion between those two areas. (material already bought)






This is the rear of the tank.

Does it make sense now?
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:56 PM   #173
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yes it does . I was just wondering , because you said you were trying to drop the high Cof G. I saw it up a few inches tasked the question THEN realized it is designed to attach to the rack already in place.
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:38 PM   #174
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I made this tonight.

It's mounting plate for my J&M CB.




























Brackets that do this are sold on the interwebs for $50+; I think this cost 2 hours labor and <$4 in parts.


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Old 01-05-2013, 08:54 AM   #175
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Steve bought me this cool RAM mount ball that has a bolt so the it can mount here.











Next New grips and throttle lock.














I had 2 issues. One the device was not articulating right, so I took it apart and found it gummed up.




So I cleaned it and re-greased it and put it back together.





Now it was working well, but had a problem getting and combination of internal and external shims to cause it to grip and release correctly.









Now back to the fuel cell.


Sand w/ 220, clean, prime, bake, prime, bake, Hammered Metal, bake, Hammered Metal, bake, Hammered Metal, bake, Hammered Metal.




Put it back together.










Dress it up.




















Note to self: no matter what, do NOT, I repeat DO NOT wash off or lose the markings between mated peices.

I don't know for sure how many combinations there are for 8 holes on 5 parts where the x-axis on part A (short bar) has the pontential to be either North or South AND left of or right of the part B (long bar) AND part C (long bar).

BUT I CAN tell you I think I found them all.


It took me two hours to sort that nightmare out.


What I lack in intelligence I make up for in persistance.




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Old 01-05-2013, 09:28 AM   #176
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Now back to the wiring...

Seven of the wires in this pic are 3" TOO short. and required splicing to bring into spec.


Steve suggested removing 2 of the switches so that one location could be a Power-Let and the other the place where I plug in my helmet for the J&M.





There's a LOT going on in these pics but I won't waste your time. If you have any question, I'll be happy to answer them.




Near = Eastern Beaver Mini fuse block
Far = J&M




I noticed some brake fluid damage (note to self, order diaphram)





New bling.








Leave it to BMW to make this simple project as difficult as possible.





If you didn't know, the switches come pre-wired and are dropped in from the top. From there the wires are fished back through that psychedelic-taste-the-rainbow-Skiddles-nightmare of wires under the fuel tank.








Screw the shit!






















The new ignition flange was loose and the more I looked at it, it didn't look like the OEM part, but I had it so I used it.


I made a gasket to help with seating it.





Without it, it was off center.













Some tank-to-inner-fairing new gaskets.





Fitting it together.














.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:34 PM   #177
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I was given some epoxy encapsulating & potting compound.

I have no experience with this stuff.

One clock came pre-waterproofed, one did not.

Can anyone offer pointers or pitfalls before I proceed?

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:01 PM   #178
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Step 1: Mix

Step 2: Fill

Step 3: Wait

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Old 02-17-2013, 04:22 PM   #179
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Thanx Ducky



How about I pay you with a dozen [F]hugs[/F] when I see you in August.


Oh and let say this about that ... there is no end to level of suckage that can be had with a tube of Permatex black gasket maker, 2 ratches & 12 screws. Oh and xylol...lots of xylol.







That is until you realize when attempting to seat the cap you installed it UPSIDE DOWN!






Post removal, cleaning and re-installed correctly.






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Step 1: Mix

Step 2: Fill

Step 3: Wait

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Old 02-18-2013, 08:32 AM   #180
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I know it will sound elementry to everyone reading this but I just learned how to test if a switch is normally open or closed!



So now I know these are normally open but NOT waterproof (which I already knew)



Now to find 4 waterproof SPST mometary tactal normally open bulkhead switches.

Does anybody need a 6-pack of damn hard to find while I'm out?
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