Solid front brake rotor on 950 Super Enduro?

[CrashDBad]

Has anyone run a solid front disc from an adventure on their SE?

I'm on my second front rotor in 18k miles and it has once again gone from "floating" to plain loose and rattling with several mm free play in all directions. This last rotor was replaced less than 5k miles ago.

When the front brake is applied, there is a loud clank as the rotor hits against the inner ring. It's noisy, gives awful feedback through the front end and I'm worried about a disc failure.

Anyone else experience this or tried an aftermarket disc that floats instead of rattles?

[luv2race]

Do you know anyone with a press and the right dies? Slam 'em back tight.

[pierce]

on the BMW's with the floating rotors, like the r1100's from the 90s, you have to replace the 'buttons' that the rotors float on every 30K miles or so if you ride hard. if you let them go too far, the rotors themselves are damaged (the edge of the half holes that the buttons float in get mushroomed).

[Misery Goat]

Rick, you're asking that poor rotor to do things it wasn't meant to do.

[CrashDBad]

I don't think pressing the buttons is an option every couple of thousand miles. KTM doesn't list separate part #s for the inner carrier, buttons and the disc surface. Even if they were replaceable, they deform within a few thousand miles and I'd be adding a disc service to the monthly tire changes.

Hopefully the solid rotor from the adventure works, just wonder if I'll be trading rattles for warping.

Originally Posted by Misery Goat

Rick, you're asking that poor rotor to do things it wasn't meant to do.

The adventure rotor has a better chance of solving the problem than me losing weight or riding smoother.

[Yardstick]

Originally Posted by CrashDBad

Hopefully the solid rotor from the adventure works, just wonder if I'll be trading rattles for warping.

You probably would trade rattles for warping. My Adventure came with solid, warped front rotors. I need to replace those one of these days.

[CrashDBad]

As the freeplay increases in the rotor, it feels like it might eventually result in a catasthropic failure when the disc stops and the inner hub mount keeps spinning. I think I'd take some pulsing over that.

[Misery Goat]

What's our local expert say on this, Rick?

[fast4d]

how much play is there between rotor and hat?

you check for play at the wheel bearings?

I had small spacer fall out of my superduke wheel during a tire change. did not know and went on a trip. 2400 miles later and I had the same issues.

[CrashDBad]

Originally Posted by Misery Goat

What's our local expert say on this, Rick?

He says go for the solid rotor and I'm sure he is biting his tongue not to jump in here.

We are both thinking of the switch, but I wanted to see if anyone else had tried it. I'm leaving for baja this week and had lots of other stuff to do, so we didn't get a chance to do a test fit.

With my screwed up knees I have a hard time working the rear brake and rely on the fornt brake when in attack mode. Add to that me additional mass (hey, I'm big boned!) The rotor is gettign worked to death.

fast4d: It's not a spacer issue. There is visible play you see, feel and hear that's probably close to 1/8" along the buttons on all axis.

[Hodgo]

So what did you end up doing ? Going with a solid or floating ?

My rear one is flogged & Floating and Im thinking of going solid.

Originally Posted by CrashDBad

Has anyone run a solid front disc from an adventure on their SE?

I'm on my second front rotor in 18k miles and it has once again gone from "floating" to plain loose and rattling with several mm free play in all directions. This last rotor was replaced less than 5k miles ago.

When the front brake is applied, there is a loud clank as the rotor hits against the inner ring. It's noisy, gives awful feedback through the front end and I'm worried about a disc failure.

Anyone else experience this or tried an aftermarket disc that floats instead of rattles?

[fallingoff]

Originally Posted by pierce

on the BMW's with the floating rotors, like the r1100's from the 90s, you have to replace the 'buttons' that the rotors float on every 30K miles or so if you ride hard. if you let them go too far, the rotors themselves are damaged (the edge of the half holes that the buttons float in get mushroomed).

bought cheap one's on e-bay for my son's bike, 30 dollars more than a new set of button;s

check for cheap ktm on flea bay

cheers

[rossguzzi]

My 03 Adv has solid warped ones. I dont feel the pulsing on the dirt if thats any help. On the road it is a PITA.
Isnt it funny, Im thinking of going floating :)