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Old 10-30-2012, 09:22 PM   #15076
thisflatearth
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http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3266075615.html

Something like this with the XR600R motor
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:20 PM   #15077
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Originally Posted by Keith View Post
Found some, while searching for options.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPAL-Fan-4-P...b35bd0&vxp=mtr

A little more expensive this time around.
That guys $15 shipping is a total bust.

http://autoplicity.com/products/1749...FWlxQgod1SgAWA

is a better price out the door.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:41 PM   #15078
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
Interested on thoughts re need for the thermostat.
Noted previously here my BRP hasn't had one for some time and I don't appear to have any issues?
Allways thought they were needed to speed warm up in extremely cold climates.

Comments

Cylinder-bore & piston operate at vastly different temperatures hence will expand very different. This means that the (hot!) piston has loadsa play in the (coolish, refer your thermostat) bore when cold, it rattles around.
To seal off a bore effectively the clearance must be maintained at a value determined by the factory, ergo the parts must be at the temperature they were designed for.
A too-cool engine therefore will not seal off the bore effectively, with consequential loss of power*, increased wear, oil consumption & engine fouling as the combined results.
Oh, also add reduced oil-change intervals (fouling) and piston slap noises. Ever heard a cold aircooled 2stroke started, any Kawa triple a good example? This racketry is the (aluminium) pistons 'turning' in the (cast iron) sleeves, amplified by the fins, and only idjits revved it when cold.

So no, not only needed for warmup but to maintain a minimum engine temperature, good for any climate you may find yourself in.


(* Disclaimer: actually this is not wholly true but is for this explanation. Efficiency-wise it is true in any case)
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:08 AM   #15079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Start with one, then try two.

Find a nice wide open section, mark off flags (or land marks) on the side of the road, maybe 100 yrds apart, come through first session at speed, roll on full throttle, measure the time it takes to get to a certain speed, say 65 or 70 mph. Which ever jet gets you there with the least amount of time, and cleanly, is your best option.

If you spend a lot of time at the top end of your throttle, maybe jet one size fatter than you think to keep it cooler.
Thank sintax, I'll do that ;)
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:11 AM   #15080
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Adapted from Gary table to my Angolan XR 650R 07:

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Old 10-31-2012, 11:23 AM   #15081
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Hi Guys,
I recently finished my XRR build. It was nothing extraordinary, just piled together a lot of the common mods that have been done for years to the XRRs. Anyways, so far so good. I only have one minor teething issue. My new Mishimoto coolant hoses seem to be weeping coolant after the bike warms up a bit. It's in the mid 30s up here in Northern Minnesota, and the oil temp dipstick is showing only 120f, but if I let the bike sit for about 2 minutes, it will start leaking coolant slowly out of several of the hoses. I know these bikes are sensitive to overheating, but something is wrong. I've refit and tightened the hoses down but that hasn't helped. I'm wondering if the cooling system is building up too much pressure and if I need a different radiator cap or if there might be a blocked vent somewhere. The coolant in the resevoir is at the full mark when the bike is on the side stand as pictured below.

Thoughts?

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Old 10-31-2012, 11:50 AM   #15082
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi Guys,
I recently finished my XRR build. It was nothing extraordinary, just piled together a lot of the common mods that have been done for years to the XRRs. Anyways, so far so good. I only have one minor teething issue. My new Mishimoto coolant hoses seem to be weeping coolant after the bike warms up a bit. It's in the mid 30s up here in Northern Minnesota, and the oil temp dipstick is showing only 120f, but if I let the bike sit for about 2 minutes, it will start leaking coolant slowly out of several of the hoses. I know these bikes are sensitive to overheating, but something is wrong. I've refit and tightened the hoses down but that hasn't helped. I'm wondering if the cooling system is building up too much pressure and if I need a different radiator cap or if there might be a blocked vent somewhere. The coolant in the resevoir is at the full mark when the bike is on the side stand as pictured below.

Thoughts?

I had one of my CV4 hoses leak, because I forgot to tighten the clamp, but even then it didn't leak much after months of riding.
Your oil temp will not be close to accurate unless the motor is running mid-high revs.
Check your thermostat.
I think your hoses are junk myself, your cap should blow long before any coolent leaks from the hoses.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:51 AM   #15083
tomaszb2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Are you asking what jets we run?

If so, here is where i'm at now...

Pilot - 27.5
Pilot Air jet - 1.2
Jet Needle - 9DJY1
Needle Jet - Y4 (but moving to a Y6 this weekend to test)
Clip - 2.5 (washer under, clip in pos 3)
Main - 140

Currently my pumper is disabled for tuning reasons.

I'm at 1850 ft, ~75 deg F, 30-50% humidity

Starts and idles great (like beyond great) small stumble off idle (which pumper will fix) light surging 1/4-1/2 throttle, very nice and clean 1/2 to 1/1 (pretty happy up top)
Hi sintax :-)

I just wanted to know what are the nominal dimensions Mikuni HS40 carburetor jets: Main jet and Pilot jet(In my carburetor HS40: Main jet 140, Pilot jet 20. Is this ok?? )

Thanks for everything.:-)
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:18 PM   #15084
jwalters
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Maybe I'll give the hoses a few heat cycles to see if that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I had one of my CV4 hoses leak, because I forgot to tighten the clamp, but even then it didn't leak much after months of riding

Agreed, that's why I posted this to begin with. I'm going to try a few things, drip some chicken blood on the bike and hope I magically fix this. :-) We'll see if some heat cycles help set the seal on the hoses, if not I'll put the stockers back on. Thanks for the feedback.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I think your hoses are junk myself, your cap should blow long before any coolent leaks from the hoses.
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:28 PM   #15085
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Maybe I'll give the hoses a few heat cycles to see if that helps.




Agreed, that's why I posted this to begin with. I'm going to try a few things, drip some chicken blood on the bike and hope I magically fix this. :-) We'll see if some heat cycles help set the seal on the hoses, if not I'll put the stockers back on. Thanks for the feedback.

If chicken doesn't work, try cat.

I assume you aren't getting garbage in the coolent; i.e. leaking head gasket.



The stock hoses are great hoses, the only reason for me to go different was to add some color/coolness to the bike. I am sure that is that same for others. What I really wanted was the clear hoses; I thought it would be cool to watch the coolent swirling around the engine.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:50 PM   #15086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaszb2 View Post
Hi sintax :-)

I just wanted to know what are the nominal dimensions Mikuni HS40 carburetor jets: Main jet and Pilot jet(In my carburetor HS40: Main jet 140, Pilot jet 20. Is this ok?? )

Thanks for everything.:-)
20 sounds kinda small. I'd guess you could start at 25 and try that.

Get the bike warmed up, dial in idle speed to about 1700 rpm using white plastic knob (higher than normal idle, which should be around 1400 rpm)

using the brass fuel screw under the front of the carb, slowly screw it in until the engine rpm and sound changes, you've just made it too lean. Take note of how many turns. From that point screw outward, until the rpm or sound changes to normal again, then keep going out, until it starts to stumble and chug. You've just made it too rich. Take note of how many turns,

Find the correct number of turns, that is right in the middle of the two.

If you find yourself at either end of the spectrum and no change is happening, you either need to go up or down a jet size.

Sorry that is a bit crude, and there are people who can explain it better, but hopefully that makes some sense
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:11 PM   #15087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Check that your overflow hose is connected to the valve. Might have shot out on top of the rad.

The hose should connect there and run down to your overflow by your left foot.
I finally found time to work on the bike and I believe that I found the culprit. Apparently the previous (previous, previous) owner put a hole in the overflow bottle and did a cheap and easy fix on it. Im guessing that the "fix" decided to fail while on the trail. I put the rad's back on, connected everything, and when I filled the overflow with antifreeze I immediately noticed a leak from somewhere below. Removed the skid and bottle and "boom" some crappy black plastic "fix" peeling away from one entire side of the bottle. Next question : does anyone have one for sale? :-)
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:06 PM   #15088
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I have a very faint scraping noise coming from beneath the cylinder I think (well not really scraping but it's the best I can describe) . Could it be the rod bearing? Only can notice it when I rev it when stopped. I have put this bike through hell and back, so I am not surprised.

EDIT: Can't hear it anymore. I'll keep an eye, err ear, on it.

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Old 10-31-2012, 06:09 PM   #15089
DELTATANGO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
I have a very faint scraping noise coming from beneath the cylinder I think (well not really scraping but it's the best I can describe) . Could it be the rod bearing? Only can notice it when I rev it when stopped. I have put this bike through hell and back, so I am not surprised.
The engine sounds like a bucket of rocks.

Thanks Guy from Huntsville info.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:07 PM   #15090
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim86 View Post
I finally found time to work on the bike and I believe that I found the culprit. Apparently the previous (previous, previous) owner put a hole in the overflow bottle and did a cheap and easy fix on it. Im guessing that the "fix" decided to fail while on the trail. I put the rad's back on, connected everything, and when I filled the overflow with antifreeze I immediately noticed a leak from somewhere below. Removed the skid and bottle and "boom" some crappy black plastic "fix" peeling away from one entire side of the bottle. Next question : does anyone have one for sale? :-)
Thing is overflow bottles are not pressurized. They only "contain" the overflow when the cap releases at hot temperatures. Yes, it will blow coolant if overheating, but it's also designed to do that through the top drain hose out below the bottle in front of your foot.


You still might have issues.
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