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Old 10-30-2012, 03:14 PM   #15076
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Are you asking what jets we run?

If so, here is where i'm at now...

Pilot - 27.5
Pilot Air jet - 1.2
Jet Needle - 9DJY1
Needle Jet - Y4 (but moving to a Y6 this weekend to test)
Clip - 2.5 (washer under, clip in pos 3)
Main - 140

Currently my pumper is disabled for tuning reasons.

I'm at 1850 ft, ~75 deg F, 30-50% humidity

Starts and idles great (like beyond great) small stumble off idle (which pumper will fix) light surging 1/4-1/2 throttle, very nice and clean 1/2 to 1/1 (pretty happy up top)

My carb is fine for now, but can I get those weather settings for my bike in eastern Nevada?
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:00 PM   #15077
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick5446 View Post
Just did some googling...there's a bunch of charts backing up my claim. Here's one: http://www.affordablegokarts.com/Dri...ain%20Jets.php
I did some googling, too. Found this:

" DynoJet jets are marked according to the diameter of the hole in the
jet .. ie: DJ150 = 1.5mm and DJ175 = 1.75mm.

This is not true for Mikuni or most other OEM equivalent jets. This size
Mikuni jet, (N102.221 Super BN), is marked according to its' flow rate,
ie: 150 = a rating of 150 cc of fuel per minute. "


From:
http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/dyno-mikuni.htm


And this:

"1) Keihin - OEM main jets - Jets are measured using an unknown convention in steps of 2 or 3. Available from Kawasaki dealers 2 sizes larger and 2 smaller than the Ninja 250's stock #105 main jets.

2) Dynojet - Measured in mm. Dynojet numbers are simply the hole diameter. A 140DJ main has a 1.40mm (0.055") diameter hole in it at the threaded end. Available in .02mm increments. Marked with a 'DJ' on the jet.

3) Precision Engineering - Also sold under the names 'RD Precision Engineering' and 'Freeman Automotive' - All are marked with an 'AB' on the jet. Like Dynojet, measured in mm, but come in .025mm increments.

4) Mikuni - Made for Mikuni Carburetors, but will also fit Keihin. Available in 2.5 increments. Mikuni uses yet another measurement convention - reportedly based on flow rate. The result is that Mikuni's sizes are vastly different from the other makers'. "


From here: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Dynojet...zes_conversion


I'm not saying either way is correct. Just goes to show that if you read it on the internet, it must be true.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:22 PM   #15078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hontri View Post
You used to be able to get the fans on Ebay for about $40 but i don't see them there at present.Here is what you want:
http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30103018

Found some, while searching for options.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPAL-Fan-4-P...b35bd0&vxp=mtr

A little more expensive this time around.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:09 PM   #15079
thisflatearth
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So if I want a ripping 4 stroke single for the street but live in NJ can i build a XRL into an XRR maybe starting with a XRL chassis and title and putting all the hot parts into it from the XRR?

Or do I just buy a hot XRL title and hope no cop ever checks the vin

This is what 3 nights of 16 hour storm standby at work does to my fragile jello brain

Dont laugh but I miss my KLR and always wanted to bump it out to 705 and swap out the dollar bin suspenders but every time i thought about the $$ wasted vs getting something better all around, then i sold it and bought the evverfun buell

Either dismiss this as silly reTHoric or endulge my tiredness

or do I just buy a KTM/HUSQY?ETC
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:14 PM   #15080
lstzephyr
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No, you can't use the watercooled XR650R engine in the XR650L frame. However you could build a hotted up air cooled XR600R in a XR650L frame. It would be 85% of the performance of the XR650R in my opinion.

I always wanted a kickstart xr650l framed XR600 punched to 628cc with crf450 forks. I think it would be a blast.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:18 PM   #15081
thisflatearth
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Im pretty sure a XR600R would be legit in my state if it was already registered.

This could start to be good or bad depending on which side of my wallet you end up on
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:22 PM   #15082
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http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3266075615.html

Something like this with the XR600R motor
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:20 PM   #15083
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
Found some, while searching for options.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPAL-Fan-4-P...b35bd0&vxp=mtr

A little more expensive this time around.
That guys $15 shipping is a total bust.

http://autoplicity.com/products/1749...FWlxQgod1SgAWA

is a better price out the door.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:41 PM   #15084
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
Interested on thoughts re need for the thermostat.
Noted previously here my BRP hasn't had one for some time and I don't appear to have any issues?
Allways thought they were needed to speed warm up in extremely cold climates.

Comments

Cylinder-bore & piston operate at vastly different temperatures hence will expand very different. This means that the (hot!) piston has loadsa play in the (coolish, refer your thermostat) bore when cold, it rattles around.
To seal off a bore effectively the clearance must be maintained at a value determined by the factory, ergo the parts must be at the temperature they were designed for.
A too-cool engine therefore will not seal off the bore effectively, with consequential loss of power*, increased wear, oil consumption & engine fouling as the combined results.
Oh, also add reduced oil-change intervals (fouling) and piston slap noises. Ever heard a cold aircooled 2stroke started, any Kawa triple a good example? This racketry is the (aluminium) pistons 'turning' in the (cast iron) sleeves, amplified by the fins, and only idjits revved it when cold.

So no, not only needed for warmup but to maintain a minimum engine temperature, good for any climate you may find yourself in.


(* Disclaimer: actually this is not wholly true but is for this explanation. Efficiency-wise it is true in any case)
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:08 AM   #15085
babuja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Start with one, then try two.

Find a nice wide open section, mark off flags (or land marks) on the side of the road, maybe 100 yrds apart, come through first session at speed, roll on full throttle, measure the time it takes to get to a certain speed, say 65 or 70 mph. Which ever jet gets you there with the least amount of time, and cleanly, is your best option.

If you spend a lot of time at the top end of your throttle, maybe jet one size fatter than you think to keep it cooler.
Thank sintax, I'll do that ;)
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:11 AM   #15086
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Adapted from Gary table to my Angolan XR 650R 07:

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Old 10-31-2012, 11:23 AM   #15087
jwalters
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Hi Guys,
I recently finished my XRR build. It was nothing extraordinary, just piled together a lot of the common mods that have been done for years to the XRRs. Anyways, so far so good. I only have one minor teething issue. My new Mishimoto coolant hoses seem to be weeping coolant after the bike warms up a bit. It's in the mid 30s up here in Northern Minnesota, and the oil temp dipstick is showing only 120f, but if I let the bike sit for about 2 minutes, it will start leaking coolant slowly out of several of the hoses. I know these bikes are sensitive to overheating, but something is wrong. I've refit and tightened the hoses down but that hasn't helped. I'm wondering if the cooling system is building up too much pressure and if I need a different radiator cap or if there might be a blocked vent somewhere. The coolant in the resevoir is at the full mark when the bike is on the side stand as pictured below.

Thoughts?

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Old 10-31-2012, 11:50 AM   #15088
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Hi Guys,
I recently finished my XRR build. It was nothing extraordinary, just piled together a lot of the common mods that have been done for years to the XRRs. Anyways, so far so good. I only have one minor teething issue. My new Mishimoto coolant hoses seem to be weeping coolant after the bike warms up a bit. It's in the mid 30s up here in Northern Minnesota, and the oil temp dipstick is showing only 120f, but if I let the bike sit for about 2 minutes, it will start leaking coolant slowly out of several of the hoses. I know these bikes are sensitive to overheating, but something is wrong. I've refit and tightened the hoses down but that hasn't helped. I'm wondering if the cooling system is building up too much pressure and if I need a different radiator cap or if there might be a blocked vent somewhere. The coolant in the resevoir is at the full mark when the bike is on the side stand as pictured below.

Thoughts?

I had one of my CV4 hoses leak, because I forgot to tighten the clamp, but even then it didn't leak much after months of riding.
Your oil temp will not be close to accurate unless the motor is running mid-high revs.
Check your thermostat.
I think your hoses are junk myself, your cap should blow long before any coolent leaks from the hoses.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:51 AM   #15089
tomaszb2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Are you asking what jets we run?

If so, here is where i'm at now...

Pilot - 27.5
Pilot Air jet - 1.2
Jet Needle - 9DJY1
Needle Jet - Y4 (but moving to a Y6 this weekend to test)
Clip - 2.5 (washer under, clip in pos 3)
Main - 140

Currently my pumper is disabled for tuning reasons.

I'm at 1850 ft, ~75 deg F, 30-50% humidity

Starts and idles great (like beyond great) small stumble off idle (which pumper will fix) light surging 1/4-1/2 throttle, very nice and clean 1/2 to 1/1 (pretty happy up top)
Hi sintax :-)

I just wanted to know what are the nominal dimensions Mikuni HS40 carburetor jets: Main jet and Pilot jet(In my carburetor HS40: Main jet 140, Pilot jet 20. Is this ok?? )

Thanks for everything.:-)
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:18 PM   #15090
jwalters
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Maybe I'll give the hoses a few heat cycles to see if that helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I had one of my CV4 hoses leak, because I forgot to tighten the clamp, but even then it didn't leak much after months of riding

Agreed, that's why I posted this to begin with. I'm going to try a few things, drip some chicken blood on the bike and hope I magically fix this. :-) We'll see if some heat cycles help set the seal on the hoses, if not I'll put the stockers back on. Thanks for the feedback.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
I think your hoses are junk myself, your cap should blow long before any coolent leaks from the hoses.
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