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Old 10-31-2012, 08:37 PM   #15091
Slim86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Thing is overflow bottles are not pressurized. They only "contain" the overflow when the cap releases at hot temperatures. Yes, it will blow coolant if overheating, but it's also designed to do that through the top drain hose out below the bottle in front of your foot.


You still might have issues.
Well considering my luck I would agree. In the back of my mind I think I knew that it wouldnt be that easy.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:01 AM   #15092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisflatearth View Post
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3266075615.html

Something like this with the XR600R motor
Yeah the xr600r motor bolts right in. So do a lot of the parts as well. A lot of the parts from a xr600r and a xr650l interchange with nx650 and xl600 bits. Time for research my friend.

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Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
The engine sounds like a bucket of rocks.

Thanks Guy from Huntsville info.
Your welcome. Let me know if you head up north and want to ride.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:08 AM   #15093
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
20 sounds kinda small. I'd guess you could start at 25 and try that.

Get the bike warmed up, dial in idle speed to about 1700 rpm using white plastic knob (higher than normal idle, which should be around 1400 rpm)

using the brass fuel screw under the front of the carb, slowly screw it in until the engine rpm and sound changes, you've just made it too lean. Take note of how many turns. From that point screw outward, until the rpm or sound changes to normal again, then keep going out, until it starts to stumble and chug. You've just made it too rich. Take note of how many turns,

Find the correct number of turns, that is right in the middle of the two.

If you find yourself at either end of the spectrum and no change is happening, you either need to go up or down a jet size.

Sorry that is a bit crude, and there are people who can explain it better, but hopefully that makes some sense
HI!

When I buy this Pilot jet 25 I do it.Thanks for your advice!
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:58 AM   #15094
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Tomas,

25 pilot is too small (your engine will run hot when ridden slowly), get the 27.5 one - I know, got/did the same. Rather fuel on the rich side for small openings / low speed as this is when your engine needs to run as cool as possible as you'll have little wind through the rads.


Jwalters,

silicon hoses are great stuff, strong. resilient and they do not perish, however they need to 'settle' where they are clamped. Mine also leaked, sweated rather, after I put them on. No biggie, just re-tighten the clamps a bit, and all will be well.
Mind though, silicon hoses do need a 'ridge' on the spout they are pushed over to secure them, and the clamp must be just behind - not over! - this ridge. Ask anyone with a turbo, this is a crucial thing to do. Oh, and when mounting them degrease both inside of hose and spout, as even a little oil/grease will stuff the seal and will cause the hose to slide off.


Slim,

Easy: ziptie a cooldrink bottle to the side somewhere, and make a hole in the cap. Put the overflow hose in this and make sure the hose goes down to the bottom, then fill halfway with coolant.
Go ride a bit, slowly (engine hottish) is best. If the bottle keeps overflowing you got another problem than just the leaking reservoir. The latter I'd buy new rather than attempt to fix, this kind of thin plastic does not lend itself to repairing.
If you do not have a higher-pressure radcap (~1.6 bar instead of 1.2) then get one, this will give you a bigger reserve when things get a bit hot.


The Pig does have a cooling problem, at least when ridden slowly, like in riding technical single track. This bike is a desert race bike designed to be hammered at speed ie with lots of wind flowing through the rads, it hardly is meant to wait idling for traffic lights after trawling through slow traffic. For this reason jetting the idling circuit a bit richer than ideal, mounting a fan and/or bigger Fluidine radiators are very common 'mods', and most of us have done one/some of these.
The boiling-over into the expansion tank is merely a small thermal reserve, and safe to use for short periods if no liquid is spilled out of it. If one looses coolant this way chances are that, once back to normal temperatures, there is too little coolant left in the system, and grenading the engine then becomes a possibility.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:14 AM   #15095
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Wonderful! thanks for the advise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post


Jwalters,

silicon hoses are great stuff, strong. resilient and they do not perish, however they need to 'settle' where they are clamped. Mine also leaked, sweated rather, after I put them on. No biggie, just re-tighten the clamps a bit, and all will be well.
Mind though, silicon hoses do need a 'ridge' on the spout they are pushed over to secure them, and the clamp must be just behind - not over! - this ridge. Ask anyone with a turbo, this is a crucial thing to do. Oh, and when mounting them degrease both inside of hose and spout, as even a little oil/grease will stuff the seal and will cause the hose to slide off.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:29 AM   #15096
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Lightening Flywheel- has anyone done it?

I was thinking of getting a spare flywheel from ebay and lightening it up. Does anyone have any advice on how much or wear to lighten it? I am thinking I can thin the weight out on either side of the rivets. I can probably thin down the actual stamped steel shell some as long as I don't disturb the pick up.

Any ideas?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:32 AM   #15097
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Float Valve Carbs

Hy guys, didn't quite get how float valve level afect carbs performance.

The float valve level in the XR is set to 18mm.

Just assume that in my carb the float valve is set to 15mm. How this affect carbs performance/work?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:48 AM   #15098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Tomas,

25 pilot is too small (your engine will run hot when ridden slowly), get the 27.5 one - I know, got/did the same. Rather fuel on the rich side for small openings / low speed as this is when your engine needs to run as cool as possible as you'll have little wind through the rads.

He said hes running a 20 right now. If thats the case i'm guessing hes at a pretty high elevation, which is why a recommended starting at a 25. I gave him my specs, i'm running a 27.5, but i'm also at 1800 ft.

Just a little worried a 27.5 might be too much if hes been running a 20.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:50 AM   #15099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post

Jwalters,

silicon hoses are great stuff, strong. resilient and they do not perish, however they need to 'settle' where they are clamped. Mine also leaked, sweated rather, after I put them on. No biggie, just re-tighten the clamps a bit, and all will be well.
Mind though, silicon hoses do need a 'ridge' on the spout they are pushed over to secure them, and the clamp must be just behind - not over! - this ridge. Ask anyone with a turbo, this is a crucial thing to do. Oh, and when mounting them degrease both inside of hose and spout, as even a little oil/grease will stuff the seal and will cause the hose to slide off.
BuRPsa:

Which silicon hoses are you running?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:56 AM   #15100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpmwfo View Post
I was thinking of getting a spare flywheel from ebay and lightening it up. Does anyone have any advice on how much or wear to lighten it? I am thinking I can thin the weight out on either side of the rivets. I can probably thin down the actual stamped steel shell some as long as I don't disturb the pick up.

Any ideas?
My question would be why do it? Faster throttle respoonse and less performance in the tight stuff?

I have heard that some racers actualy removed the counter balance. Screw that, fatigue would outweigh the performance gained for me.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:32 AM   #15101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
My question would be why do it? Faster throttle respoonse and less performance in the tight stuff?

I have heard that some racers actualy removed the counter balance. Screw that, fatigue would outweigh the performance gained for me.
Better throttle response. Make the feel more responsive. I am not concerned with performance in tighter terrain. While the BRP can handle tight and technical, other bikes are easier for me to handle in those situations. Eventually it is probably going to get a rekluse.

I am slowly turning my BRP into a poor man's KTM 690. Lighter(than a DR or KLR) and definitely capable dual sport/adv bike.
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Old 11-01-2012, 11:44 AM   #15102
BuRPsa
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Sintax,

I'm at a warm & dry 4500 feet, 27.5 is no problem.
It felt (the ol' bum-meter) it did run better (during back2back tests) with a 25 so that's what I put in. Great pickup, starting etc so it had to be good! Yeah right, it boiled over (the only Pig out of 3) when things got really slow. It does all nigh-on the same with the 27.5 now but for the boiling-over bit, so I'd recommend it. Oh, airjet 1.2, not 1.1.
I think my hoses are the CV4's but they're all the same, very little difference in them. The slippery nature of the silicon requires one to pay a bit more attention than with rubber hoses but that's all basically.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:09 PM   #15103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpmwfo View Post
I was thinking of getting a spare flywheel from ebay and lightening it up. Does anyone have any advice on how much or wear to lighten it? I am thinking I can thin the weight out on either side of the rivets. I can probably thin down the actual stamped steel shell some as long as I don't disturb the pick up.

Any ideas?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpmwfo View Post
Better throttle response. Make the feel more responsive. I am not concerned with performance in tighter terrain. While the BRP can handle tight and technical, other bikes are easier for me to handle in those situations. Eventually it is probably going to get a rekluse.

I am slowly turning my BRP into a poor man's KTM 690. Lighter(than a DR or KLR) and definitely capable dual sport/adv bike.


You'd get better results by not eating breakfast before heading out to ride. I have a lightened FW and you notice nothing, NOTHING! It does not responde better nor does it lack bottom end in the tight stuff. All is does for you is cost $$ by paying for the FW and/or having it machined. Tune the carb right and then it will be more responsive. You just can not remove enough material from the FW to make a noticable difference.
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:35 PM   #15104
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Tire noob here , need some help. I currently have a the maxxis desert it for my rear tire it is a 120/100 18 , I got the bike not to long ago and thats the tire it came with on the back, already worn down pretty good. Sooooo when i look at the mud flap or whatever you call it thats right behind the rear spring it looks like if my tires were new they would have barely any clearance and i can see that the tire was probably rubbing the flap when new. There is actually a hole through it where it looked like the tire rubbed through. So my question is should i go down to a 110/100 18 ?
I have no idea what the tire numbers refer too. 120?/100? i know 18 is the size of my rim but the rest is a mystery to me. Thanks for your help in advance and please forgive my retardation when it comes to motorcycle tires
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Old 11-02-2012, 06:55 PM   #15105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4fun562 View Post
Tire noob here , need some help. I currently have a the maxxis desert it for my rear tire it is a 120/100 18 , I got the bike not to long ago and thats the tire it came with on the back, already worn down pretty good. Sooooo when i look at the mud flap or whatever you call it thats right behind the rear spring it looks like if my tires were new they would have barely any clearance and i can see that the tire was probably rubbing the flap when new. There is actually a hole through it where it looked like the tire rubbed through. So my question is should i go down to a 110/100 18 ?
I have no idea what the tire numbers refer too. 120?/100? i know 18 is the size of my rim but the rest is a mystery to me. Thanks for your help in advance and please forgive my retardation when it comes to motorcycle tires
I believe a 120/80-18 is an 18" tire (fits an 18" rim) that is 120 mm (about 4.7 inches) wide. The 80 is the aspect ratio which means the height (how tall it is) = 80% of 120 mm = 96 mm (about 3.8 inches).

The 110 / 100 is 110 mm wide (about 4.3 inches) and 100 % of 110 tall = 110 mm tall ( about 4.3 inches ). So its 4.3 inches wide by 4.3 inches tall. So a xxx / 100 tire will be the same width as height. The 110/100 will actually be taller than the 120/80. 100% of 110 mm is bigger than 80% of 120 mm.

Some tires are just classified by 1 number, and that implies the aspect ratio is 100%. Like a 4.50 X 18; it's an 18 inch tire that is 4.5 inches wide and 4.5 inches tall.

I'm currently running a 140/80-18 on the rear, but its a Pirelli Scorpion, MT90 - more or a dual sport tire. I think the last knobby I ran was a 120/80. Pretty sure a 140/80 knobby would not have enough clearance, it would be too tight with the knobs. It's all kinda confusing until you start mounting lots of tires and see them side by side. Plus you gotta convert the metric to inches, unless you're on the other side of the pond.

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