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Old 10-31-2012, 01:28 PM   #15091
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalters View Post
Maybe I'll give the hoses a few heat cycles to see if that helps.




Agreed, that's why I posted this to begin with. I'm going to try a few things, drip some chicken blood on the bike and hope I magically fix this. :-) We'll see if some heat cycles help set the seal on the hoses, if not I'll put the stockers back on. Thanks for the feedback.

If chicken doesn't work, try cat.

I assume you aren't getting garbage in the coolent; i.e. leaking head gasket.



The stock hoses are great hoses, the only reason for me to go different was to add some color/coolness to the bike. I am sure that is that same for others. What I really wanted was the clear hoses; I thought it would be cool to watch the coolent swirling around the engine.
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Old 10-31-2012, 02:50 PM   #15092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaszb2 View Post
Hi sintax :-)

I just wanted to know what are the nominal dimensions Mikuni HS40 carburetor jets: Main jet and Pilot jet(In my carburetor HS40: Main jet 140, Pilot jet 20. Is this ok?? )

Thanks for everything.:-)
20 sounds kinda small. I'd guess you could start at 25 and try that.

Get the bike warmed up, dial in idle speed to about 1700 rpm using white plastic knob (higher than normal idle, which should be around 1400 rpm)

using the brass fuel screw under the front of the carb, slowly screw it in until the engine rpm and sound changes, you've just made it too lean. Take note of how many turns. From that point screw outward, until the rpm or sound changes to normal again, then keep going out, until it starts to stumble and chug. You've just made it too rich. Take note of how many turns,

Find the correct number of turns, that is right in the middle of the two.

If you find yourself at either end of the spectrum and no change is happening, you either need to go up or down a jet size.

Sorry that is a bit crude, and there are people who can explain it better, but hopefully that makes some sense
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Old 10-31-2012, 05:11 PM   #15093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Check that your overflow hose is connected to the valve. Might have shot out on top of the rad.

The hose should connect there and run down to your overflow by your left foot.
I finally found time to work on the bike and I believe that I found the culprit. Apparently the previous (previous, previous) owner put a hole in the overflow bottle and did a cheap and easy fix on it. Im guessing that the "fix" decided to fail while on the trail. I put the rad's back on, connected everything, and when I filled the overflow with antifreeze I immediately noticed a leak from somewhere below. Removed the skid and bottle and "boom" some crappy black plastic "fix" peeling away from one entire side of the bottle. Next question : does anyone have one for sale? :-)
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:06 PM   #15094
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I have a very faint scraping noise coming from beneath the cylinder I think (well not really scraping but it's the best I can describe) . Could it be the rod bearing? Only can notice it when I rev it when stopped. I have put this bike through hell and back, so I am not surprised.

EDIT: Can't hear it anymore. I'll keep an eye, err ear, on it.

bamfslap screwed with this post 10-31-2012 at 07:31 PM
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:09 PM   #15095
DELTATANGO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamfslap View Post
I have a very faint scraping noise coming from beneath the cylinder I think (well not really scraping but it's the best I can describe) . Could it be the rod bearing? Only can notice it when I rev it when stopped. I have put this bike through hell and back, so I am not surprised.
The engine sounds like a bucket of rocks.

Thanks Guy from Huntsville info.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:07 PM   #15096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim86 View Post
I finally found time to work on the bike and I believe that I found the culprit. Apparently the previous (previous, previous) owner put a hole in the overflow bottle and did a cheap and easy fix on it. Im guessing that the "fix" decided to fail while on the trail. I put the rad's back on, connected everything, and when I filled the overflow with antifreeze I immediately noticed a leak from somewhere below. Removed the skid and bottle and "boom" some crappy black plastic "fix" peeling away from one entire side of the bottle. Next question : does anyone have one for sale? :-)
Thing is overflow bottles are not pressurized. They only "contain" the overflow when the cap releases at hot temperatures. Yes, it will blow coolant if overheating, but it's also designed to do that through the top drain hose out below the bottle in front of your foot.


You still might have issues.
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Old 10-31-2012, 08:37 PM   #15097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Thing is overflow bottles are not pressurized. They only "contain" the overflow when the cap releases at hot temperatures. Yes, it will blow coolant if overheating, but it's also designed to do that through the top drain hose out below the bottle in front of your foot.


You still might have issues.
Well considering my luck I would agree. In the back of my mind I think I knew that it wouldnt be that easy.
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Old 11-01-2012, 12:01 AM   #15098
lstzephyr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisflatearth View Post
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/mcy/3266075615.html

Something like this with the XR600R motor
Yeah the xr600r motor bolts right in. So do a lot of the parts as well. A lot of the parts from a xr600r and a xr650l interchange with nx650 and xl600 bits. Time for research my friend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DELTATANGO View Post
The engine sounds like a bucket of rocks.

Thanks Guy from Huntsville info.
Your welcome. Let me know if you head up north and want to ride.
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Old 11-01-2012, 02:08 AM   #15099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
20 sounds kinda small. I'd guess you could start at 25 and try that.

Get the bike warmed up, dial in idle speed to about 1700 rpm using white plastic knob (higher than normal idle, which should be around 1400 rpm)

using the brass fuel screw under the front of the carb, slowly screw it in until the engine rpm and sound changes, you've just made it too lean. Take note of how many turns. From that point screw outward, until the rpm or sound changes to normal again, then keep going out, until it starts to stumble and chug. You've just made it too rich. Take note of how many turns,

Find the correct number of turns, that is right in the middle of the two.

If you find yourself at either end of the spectrum and no change is happening, you either need to go up or down a jet size.

Sorry that is a bit crude, and there are people who can explain it better, but hopefully that makes some sense
HI!

When I buy this Pilot jet 25 I do it.Thanks for your advice!
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:58 AM   #15100
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Tomas,

25 pilot is too small (your engine will run hot when ridden slowly), get the 27.5 one - I know, got/did the same. Rather fuel on the rich side for small openings / low speed as this is when your engine needs to run as cool as possible as you'll have little wind through the rads.


Jwalters,

silicon hoses are great stuff, strong. resilient and they do not perish, however they need to 'settle' where they are clamped. Mine also leaked, sweated rather, after I put them on. No biggie, just re-tighten the clamps a bit, and all will be well.
Mind though, silicon hoses do need a 'ridge' on the spout they are pushed over to secure them, and the clamp must be just behind - not over! - this ridge. Ask anyone with a turbo, this is a crucial thing to do. Oh, and when mounting them degrease both inside of hose and spout, as even a little oil/grease will stuff the seal and will cause the hose to slide off.


Slim,

Easy: ziptie a cooldrink bottle to the side somewhere, and make a hole in the cap. Put the overflow hose in this and make sure the hose goes down to the bottom, then fill halfway with coolant.
Go ride a bit, slowly (engine hottish) is best. If the bottle keeps overflowing you got another problem than just the leaking reservoir. The latter I'd buy new rather than attempt to fix, this kind of thin plastic does not lend itself to repairing.
If you do not have a higher-pressure radcap (~1.6 bar instead of 1.2) then get one, this will give you a bigger reserve when things get a bit hot.


The Pig does have a cooling problem, at least when ridden slowly, like in riding technical single track. This bike is a desert race bike designed to be hammered at speed ie with lots of wind flowing through the rads, it hardly is meant to wait idling for traffic lights after trawling through slow traffic. For this reason jetting the idling circuit a bit richer than ideal, mounting a fan and/or bigger Fluidine radiators are very common 'mods', and most of us have done one/some of these.
The boiling-over into the expansion tank is merely a small thermal reserve, and safe to use for short periods if no liquid is spilled out of it. If one looses coolant this way chances are that, once back to normal temperatures, there is too little coolant left in the system, and grenading the engine then becomes a possibility.
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Old 11-01-2012, 08:14 AM   #15101
jwalters
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Wonderful! thanks for the advise.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post


Jwalters,

silicon hoses are great stuff, strong. resilient and they do not perish, however they need to 'settle' where they are clamped. Mine also leaked, sweated rather, after I put them on. No biggie, just re-tighten the clamps a bit, and all will be well.
Mind though, silicon hoses do need a 'ridge' on the spout they are pushed over to secure them, and the clamp must be just behind - not over! - this ridge. Ask anyone with a turbo, this is a crucial thing to do. Oh, and when mounting them degrease both inside of hose and spout, as even a little oil/grease will stuff the seal and will cause the hose to slide off.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:29 AM   #15102
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Lightening Flywheel- has anyone done it?

I was thinking of getting a spare flywheel from ebay and lightening it up. Does anyone have any advice on how much or wear to lighten it? I am thinking I can thin the weight out on either side of the rivets. I can probably thin down the actual stamped steel shell some as long as I don't disturb the pick up.

Any ideas?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:32 AM   #15103
babuja
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Float Valve Carbs

Hy guys, didn't quite get how float valve level afect carbs performance.

The float valve level in the XR is set to 18mm.

Just assume that in my carb the float valve is set to 15mm. How this affect carbs performance/work?
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:48 AM   #15104
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Tomas,

25 pilot is too small (your engine will run hot when ridden slowly), get the 27.5 one - I know, got/did the same. Rather fuel on the rich side for small openings / low speed as this is when your engine needs to run as cool as possible as you'll have little wind through the rads.

He said hes running a 20 right now. If thats the case i'm guessing hes at a pretty high elevation, which is why a recommended starting at a 25. I gave him my specs, i'm running a 27.5, but i'm also at 1800 ft.

Just a little worried a 27.5 might be too much if hes been running a 20.
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Old 11-01-2012, 10:50 AM   #15105
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post

Jwalters,

silicon hoses are great stuff, strong. resilient and they do not perish, however they need to 'settle' where they are clamped. Mine also leaked, sweated rather, after I put them on. No biggie, just re-tighten the clamps a bit, and all will be well.
Mind though, silicon hoses do need a 'ridge' on the spout they are pushed over to secure them, and the clamp must be just behind - not over! - this ridge. Ask anyone with a turbo, this is a crucial thing to do. Oh, and when mounting them degrease both inside of hose and spout, as even a little oil/grease will stuff the seal and will cause the hose to slide off.
BuRPsa:

Which silicon hoses are you running?
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