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Old 11-05-2012, 12:40 PM   #15151
babuja
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: Luanda, Angola
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Hesitation when strong acceleration

When at relanti if I give a strong aceleration the motor hesitates and some time dies...

If I gradualy acelerate a bit and been give a stronh aceleration I have no problem.

What cold be the problem? Tnks guys
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:44 PM   #15152
sintax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
When at relanti if I give a strong aceleration the motor hesitates and some time dies...

If I gradualy acelerate a bit and been give a stronh aceleration I have no problem.

What cold be the problem? Tnks guys
See my post in your other thread
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:01 PM   #15153
babuja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sintax View Post
See my post in your other thread
Following your advice there
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Old 11-05-2012, 01:13 PM   #15154
ZXRaziel
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Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Egregious View Post
Just got done pressure washing the bike. Here are afew pictures of the gauge bracket and head light brackets. My garage is a mess so the pics are not very good.
I wound the stator with 18 ga. magnet wire. Running two DC circuits, two regulators, two battery's. The HIDs are sensitive to low voltage. If both HIDs are on at the same time at idle for long time they start to flicker. At higher rpm I can run all the lights and fan no problem.
Champion , thank you .
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:53 PM   #15155
medisyn
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: San jose ca
Oddometer: 143
Super potentially dumb question. I have never really worked on dirt bikes, but if I put it on a dirt bike stand will the bike stay balanced if I remove the front wheel and forks? Or will more be needed to support the bike? I am going to pull the forks to get a shop to re-spring and freshen them up with new seals and bushings.

Anybody got a good inexpensive stand recommendation?
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:39 PM   #15156
Desert Scoundrel
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Location: Lakewood Co
Oddometer: 131
Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Super potentially dumb question. I have never really worked on dirt bikes, but if I put it on a dirt bike stand will the bike stay balanced if I remove the front wheel and forks? Or will more be needed to support the bike? I am going to pull the forks to get a shop to re-spring and freshen them up with new seals and bushings.

Anybody got a good inexpensive stand recommendation?

It depends where on the frame you put the stand and whatkind of stand. If the stand has a large platform then the bike will pretty much stay put. I use one of those cheapy HF stands and just place it where the bike will over-balance the opposite direction. If I am working on the rear then I put the stand further towards the front of the frame or visa-versa.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #15157
tractor4play
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forks

i bought xr650r forks to put on an old xl600.i flushed the old sludgy oil out and replaced with 2.5 wt synthetic.
forks compressed springs removed air gap from top of fork to top of oil level 110mm.
all put back together in correct order and nipped up per honda specs.
both clickers set mid way for final adjustment while riding the bike.
before i slipped them into the fork clamps i compressed by hand and they feel smooth.
but on both forks when you release pressure theres a clunk just as they start to rebound.
the stack was not touched.
any ideas?? do i need to release air??
i am stumped and going through withdrawl symptons as i have not been on the bike for a week.
please help as i am not comfortable putting the forks back on the cycle with this issue.
thanks in advance fellas.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #15158
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractor4play View Post
i bought xr650r forks to put on an old xl600.i flushed the old sludgy oil out and replaced with 2.5 wt synthetic.
forks compressed springs removed air gap from top of fork to top of oil level 110mm.
all put back together in correct order and nipped up per honda specs.
both clickers set mid way for final adjustment while riding the bike.
before i slipped them into the fork clamps i compressed by hand and they feel smooth.
but on both forks when you release pressure theres a clunk just as they start to rebound.
the stack was not touched.
any ideas?? do i need to release air??
i am stumped and going through withdrawl symptons as i have not been on the bike for a week.
please help as i am not comfortable putting the forks back on the cycle with this issue.
thanks in advance fellas.
My guess would be the rebound adjuster rod, but not sure why. I would cycle them a bit and perhaps it is just an air pocket in the tube that holds the rebound adjuster?

Is it both forks? or just one?
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #15159
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Joined: Nov 2007
Oddometer: 638
Stock Sub Frame-Want to avoid breakage

So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:20 PM   #15160
jimmyx
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Location: Salt city, Utardia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....
Hey Tennessee, Just did a 500 mile trip with about 30 pounds in and around my Coyote, Plus I am 6'2 /240lbs, no problems, 70% in the pegs though. Hope this helps....
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:49 PM   #15161
tractor4play
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forks

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
My guess would be the rebound adjuster rod, but not sure why. I would cycle them a bit and perhaps it is just an air pocket in the tube that holds the rebound adjuster?

Is it both forks? or just one?
both forks same clunk.
funny you should mention the adjuster rods.the p/o had
them upside down.as in the slots facing the bars.
i agree with you about the air.hopefully its that simple.
thanks crypto.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:13 PM   #15162
Sean-0
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Location: Oztraya Mate
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mate i did 7,000 kms on hard ground in the aussie outback just a few months ago

carrying more weight than you have
no issues at all .. i have only changed out my bolt for a longer 1 so i can place a nut on the other side ..did them up nice

i think the biggest problem with the subframes issues is over loaded with stock suspension .......bottoms out alot or a lot harder when it does

make sure you do up the bolt nice and lock tight it ... have a good trip

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Old 11-07-2012, 05:56 AM   #15163
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Oddometer: 638
Fellas,

Thanks for your comments and pictures, very valuable indeed. I'll stay pat with what I have now and will do the longer bolt with a nut as Sean-O suggests.

All the best!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:19 AM   #15164
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....

Yup,

You're fine.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:57 AM   #15165
crypto666
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Location: The best trails in Nevada
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Take a couple extra of the long bolt and nut with you. I had a hard time finding them locally in metric, much less hardened metric, so I have been using a standard bolt non-hardened. Hasn't broke yet. The odd thing is that I bought a few of the factory bolts, and they are too short. I showed it to Burpsa and he said his subframe is threaded and the nut is just a lock nut. Not on mine, the bolt goes all the way through and no threads in the subframe. Perhaps I eliminated them some years ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....
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