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Old 11-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #15151
tractor4play
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Joined: Jan 2009
Oddometer: 112
forks

i bought xr650r forks to put on an old xl600.i flushed the old sludgy oil out and replaced with 2.5 wt synthetic.
forks compressed springs removed air gap from top of fork to top of oil level 110mm.
all put back together in correct order and nipped up per honda specs.
both clickers set mid way for final adjustment while riding the bike.
before i slipped them into the fork clamps i compressed by hand and they feel smooth.
but on both forks when you release pressure theres a clunk just as they start to rebound.
the stack was not touched.
any ideas?? do i need to release air??
i am stumped and going through withdrawl symptons as i have not been on the bike for a week.
please help as i am not comfortable putting the forks back on the cycle with this issue.
thanks in advance fellas.
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #15152
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractor4play View Post
i bought xr650r forks to put on an old xl600.i flushed the old sludgy oil out and replaced with 2.5 wt synthetic.
forks compressed springs removed air gap from top of fork to top of oil level 110mm.
all put back together in correct order and nipped up per honda specs.
both clickers set mid way for final adjustment while riding the bike.
before i slipped them into the fork clamps i compressed by hand and they feel smooth.
but on both forks when you release pressure theres a clunk just as they start to rebound.
the stack was not touched.
any ideas?? do i need to release air??
i am stumped and going through withdrawl symptons as i have not been on the bike for a week.
please help as i am not comfortable putting the forks back on the cycle with this issue.
thanks in advance fellas.
My guess would be the rebound adjuster rod, but not sure why. I would cycle them a bit and perhaps it is just an air pocket in the tube that holds the rebound adjuster?

Is it both forks? or just one?
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Old 11-06-2012, 01:21 PM   #15153
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Location: Arkansas Ozarks
Oddometer: 739
Stock Sub Frame-Want to avoid breakage

So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:20 PM   #15154
jimmyx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....
Hey Tennessee, Just did a 500 mile trip with about 30 pounds in and around my Coyote, Plus I am 6'2 /240lbs, no problems, 70% in the pegs though. Hope this helps....
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jimmyx screwed with this post 11-06-2012 at 03:40 PM
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:49 PM   #15155
tractor4play
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forks

Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
My guess would be the rebound adjuster rod, but not sure why. I would cycle them a bit and perhaps it is just an air pocket in the tube that holds the rebound adjuster?

Is it both forks? or just one?
both forks same clunk.
funny you should mention the adjuster rods.the p/o had
them upside down.as in the slots facing the bars.
i agree with you about the air.hopefully its that simple.
thanks crypto.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:13 PM   #15156
Sean-0
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mate i did 7,000 kms on hard ground in the aussie outback just a few months ago

carrying more weight than you have
no issues at all .. i have only changed out my bolt for a longer 1 so i can place a nut on the other side ..did them up nice

i think the biggest problem with the subframes issues is over loaded with stock suspension .......bottoms out alot or a lot harder when it does

make sure you do up the bolt nice and lock tight it ... have a good trip

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Old 11-07-2012, 05:56 AM   #15157
tennessee thumper
now in Mt. View, AR
 
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Location: Arkansas Ozarks
Oddometer: 739
Fellas,

Thanks for your comments and pictures, very valuable indeed. I'll stay pat with what I have now and will do the longer bolt with a nut as Sean-O suggests.

All the best!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:19 AM   #15158
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....

Yup,

You're fine.
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:57 AM   #15159
crypto666
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Take a couple extra of the long bolt and nut with you. I had a hard time finding them locally in metric, much less hardened metric, so I have been using a standard bolt non-hardened. Hasn't broke yet. The odd thing is that I bought a few of the factory bolts, and they are too short. I showed it to Burpsa and he said his subframe is threaded and the nut is just a lock nut. Not on mine, the bolt goes all the way through and no threads in the subframe. Perhaps I eliminated them some years ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tennessee thumper View Post
So I am headed to Big Bend, TX next week with the R. Have a GL Coyote that weighs in at 17lbs with tent, bag, pillow, bed roll and a few other "light items".

Is 17lbs a light enough load not to put too much stress on the toothpick subframe for a week of riding?

I am late the game in realizing this is an issue. I knew it was a consideration but must have subconciously blocked it out of my mind.

Too late to have any welding done to beef it up or buy a steel one.

Any comments are welcome....
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #15160
thouk
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Case material

Hey Y'all,
What are the main cases made of, I.e. the cases that hold the transmission gears? May need to fix them or buy a new one. Thanks, Tony
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Old 11-08-2012, 07:56 PM   #15161
Lostsaffa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thouk View Post
Hey Y'all,
What are the main cases made of, I.e. the cases that hold the transmission gears? May need to fix them or buy a new one. Thanks, Tony
I believe aluminium (that's aluminum to some)
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Old 11-08-2012, 08:20 PM   #15162
thouk
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Thanks. At least I can try or have someone else fix my accident. Tony
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:54 PM   #15163
BuRPsa
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The cases (an aluminium alloy) can be welded. The (some a magnesium ally) covers too but this is more tricky compared to the cases. Find an aluminium/TIG welder who's worth his salt, and I would torque both halves together during any welding so as to minimize warping, ditto (if possible) when machining any bores (like lineboring holes).

Now tell us: what did you stuff up?
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Old 11-09-2012, 07:17 AM   #15164
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
Take a couple extra of the long bolt and nut with you. I had a hard time finding them locally in metric, much less hardened metric, so I have been using a standard bolt non-hardened. Hasn't broke yet. The odd thing is that I bought a few of the factory bolts, and they are too short. I showed it to Burpsa and he said his subframe is threaded and the nut is just a lock nut. Not on mine, the bolt goes all the way through and no threads in the subframe. Perhaps I eliminated them some years ago.


I had to check this, and yeah, threaded. A nut on it, ie a hole drilled-through on either side, is probably better in any case, as this way both tubing-sides on each side is clamped - contrary to only one now on the lhs, never mind the welding.
I'll see if I can find some plated ht bolts for you, should be easy here.
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:43 PM   #15165
thouk
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My mistake picture

So her is the part I may have welded up. The cam chain goes on the counter balancer next to this guard. I'm debating fixing it since the chain should be tight all the time??? What would y'all do? Buy another case, get it welded or leave it as is?

I did buy the throttle body boot off of a trx700xx to see if it will mate up to the xr650r head without too many mods. I bought the throttle body off of eBay. Now I just need to get the engine back together.
Thanks, Tony
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