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Old 11-09-2012, 03:26 PM   #15166
sintax
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Does anyone know if the Fluidyne rads have the mounts on the left side for the factory smog gear ( AKA fan mount )??
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Old 11-09-2012, 08:56 PM   #15167
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The smog stuff is on the right, but I am not familiar with the Fluidyne rads.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:50 PM   #15168
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Help All,
Some where here on ADV rider one of the members built a XR650R with a CRF450 rear swing arm and Ohlins shock..I believe mounted similar to a KTM. He had several pictures. Does anyone know the thread??? Please reply if you do. Thanks all!!
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:20 AM   #15169
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Also need help: who has the Jetting Tables (sizes, altitude etc) saved in some form (excel, picture or why) which were on Borynack's site (xr650r.com, now dysfunct) ??
I had it but lost it, and someone asked me for this this info.
If anyone has this pls pm me, I'll send you an email addy.


Wtt, you sure about that? Can't remember ever seeing anything like that, although Ohlins did supply shocks for the Pig.

Thouk, I'd have it welded up. Ask the welder to partially submerge it in water when he's welding, should help prevent warpage. Know that after welding you'll need to fashion the 'blob' into shape, a dremel would be handy to have for this.
If you want a 'perfect' shape make an imprint of clay or plaster-of-paris/gypsum beforehand, and use this to fit when you get busy shaping. Oh, of course remove the seal(s) close to it.
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:37 AM   #15170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Also need help: who has the Jetting Tables (sizes, altitude etc) saved in some form (excel, picture or why) which were on Borynack's site (xr650r.com, now dysfunct) ??
I had it but lost it, and someone asked me for this this info.t.
Try to use this:

http://anonymouse.org/anonwww.html

http://anonymouse.org/cgi-bin/anon-w...0r.us/jetting/

It's the only way I can acess that info and any info in http://www.xr650r.us
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Old 11-10-2012, 05:58 AM   #15171
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babuja View Post
Try to use this:

http://anonymouse.org/anonwww.html

http://anonymouse.org/cgi-bin/anon-w...0r.us/jetting/

It's the only way I can acess that info and any info in http://www.xr650r.us

Babuja,

no idea how that works...... but it does, and that's all that matters
Thanks ma bra!
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Old 11-10-2012, 07:19 AM   #15172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Thouk, I'd have it welded up. Ask the welder to partially submerge it in water when he's welding, should help prevent warpage. Know that after welding you'll need to fashion the 'blob' into shape, a dremel would be handy to have for this.
If you want a 'perfect' shape make an imprint of clay or plaster-of-paris/gypsum beforehand, and use this to fit when you get busy shaping. Oh, of course remove the seal(s) close to it.
That sounds like fun when using a 220V arc welder. Any alum welder worth his salt will be able to do it without warpage. They just have to take their time. Every aluminum peice being welded/heated wants to warp. Its the nature of the beast.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:41 AM   #15173
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BuRPsa you're at Pretoria?! I'm just "few" miles up, in Luanda...maybe we should meet half a way ;)
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:05 PM   #15174
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STS,
you have not welded much I take it? Ali is welded by TIG, not arc - but even if so then such would work well, even if it would be a 380 or 520V machine. The submerging is to keep the heat localised, away from the bearing bores etc, which in this case (pun obvious) is easy too.


Babuja,
know Langewand, or the Doodsakker / Death Acre? It's the piece of carnivorous "beach" South of you, there were the dunes meet the sea, where one can only pass at low tide, springtide being best. I want to send my pig through that alley, and hopefully some others will join me.
IF this materializes then you ma bru will be high on the list to visit before we travel further, East to be precise, to the Indian Ocean. So, you may just get what you wish for, just closer to home
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:14 PM   #15175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
STS,
you have not welded much I take it? Ali is welded by TIG, not arc - but even if so then such would work well, even if it would be a 380 or 520V machine. The submerging is to keep the heat localised, away from the bearing bores etc, which in this case (pun obvious) is easy too.


Babuja,
know Langewand, or the Doodsakker / Death Acre? It's the piece of carnivorous "beach" South of you, there were the dunes meet the sea, where one can only pass at low tide, springtide being best. I want to send my pig through that alley, and hopefully some others will join me.
IF this materializes then you ma bru will be high on the list to visit before we travel further, East to be precise, to the Indian Ocean. So, you may just get what you wish for, just closer to home
Nice to have some fellow South Africans in the BRP community here, that sounds like an epic ride - SA is one hell of a country to own these bikes, but Australia is not too bad either :)
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:13 PM   #15176
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I'm thinking about picking up a swing arm removal tool from that guy on Ebay from the UK.

He said he'd combine shipping, so I was wondering if anyone wanted to go in and split the shipping cost?

seems like real nice pieces

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-XR650R...item4609b294a3
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:34 PM   #15177
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go and buy a few cheap sockets ..the size you need and get a grinder and make your own ...pretty easy to do ....i infact dont even use 1 i use a bit of flat steal and use a cresent to undo it ..kind of like a screw driver
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Old 11-10-2012, 03:52 PM   #15178
RalphyDo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
STS,
you have not welded much I take it? Ali is welded by TIG, not arc - but even if so then such would work well, even if it would be a 380 or 520V machine. The submerging is to keep the heat localised, away from the bearing bores etc, which in this case (pun obvious) is easy too.



Aluminum can be welded with all forms of welding. I have arc'ed it as well as mig'ed. Obviously tig is the most popular and effeicent. Submurging the case is water has the opposite affect. It causes the case to expand and contract at difference rates from where the water is and the heat is being applied. Simple answer: Heat! Heat the entire case in an oven until it is around 500*. THEN, keep it hot while welding by using a hot plate(similar to a cooking hot plate) After welding, keep the hot plate on high and turn it down slowly. When the case has cooled down to about 120* or so, take it off the plate and wrap it in a welding blanket. Let cool for a few hours.

The biggest reason for using heat and lots of it is so the oil inside the aluminum is cooked off. Oil is a huge emeny for tig welding aluminum. Aluminum can not be too clean!!! Even if you clean the outside of the case, oil is still absorbed inside the aluminum. Once you strike an arc with the torch, that oil comes to the surface causing nasty contamination that can not be welded over without removing that material that has been contaminated.

With the case in question, the welding needs to be down on the inside of the case so it will not be able to be bolted to its other half. Just remove the seals, leave the bearings in as long as they are not too close to the area to be welded. Leaving the bearings helps keep bores in shape. Heat the case up, weld it, and cool it slowly.


Oh yeah, AC Cobras where all aluminum bodied and where welding with oxy-acetylene
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:46 PM   #15179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
STS,
you have not welded much I take it? Ali is welded by TIG, not arc - but even if so then such would work well, even if it would be a 380 or 520V machine. The submerging is to keep the heat localised, away from the bearing bores etc, which in this case (pun obvious) is easy too.
a Tungsten Inert Gas welder is a machine used in the process that welds various metals thru an electrical(say AC current) arc that produces the heat(around 4000F) necessary to melt the host(say 6061T6) and filler(say 1414A) metals while an inert gas(say carbon dioxide or helium) keeps oxygen(o2) from creating little ozone(o3) bubbles called perosity. Most ferrous metals use DC current with a 2% thoriated tungsten. Conventional arc(read stick), MIG, or TIG processes use electricity as opposed to gas welding(like an acetelyne or propeline and oxygen torch[2500F]), hence the "arc welding" slang. The use of "arc" processes are used commonly in the modern world where time is a concern. The use of "gas" welding processes is common where flexability and longevity(by slower heating) of the host material is beneficial like homemade airplane frames.

If it gets that hot that you need water to cool, you shouldn't be welding on it anyway as the molecular properties have changed(like the T# or stiffness rating). Water is a heat sink(read retains heat) as opposed to aluminum or copper that sheds heat rather efficiantly. Thats why radiators are made of aluminum or brass(which can also be welded together in a pinch) to more efficiently transfer heat via convection to the air than good ol' water via convection(not conduction, that works pretty good) can.

I have been welding for almost 30 years . I have specialized in aluminum for over 12 . I have also unhappily been shocked while "arc" welding near water. I was offering some genaral advice on an easier solution, like just letting the piece cool to the touch between welds. Have a nice day.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:48 PM   #15180
singletrackslayer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RalphyDo View Post
Aluminum can be welded with all forms of welding. I have arc'ed it as well as mig'ed. Obviously tig is the most popular and effeicent. Submurging the case is water has the opposite affect. It causes the case to expand and contract at difference rates from where the water is and the heat is being applied. Simple answer: Heat! Heat the entire case in an oven until it is around 500*. THEN, keep it hot while welding by using a hot plate(similar to a cooking hot plate) After welding, keep the hot plate on high and turn it down slowly. When the case has cooled down to about 120* or so, take it off the plate and wrap it in a welding blanket. Let cool for a few hours.

The biggest reason for using heat and lots of it is so the oil inside the aluminum is cooked off. Oil is a huge emeny for tig welding aluminum. Aluminum can not be too clean!!! Even if you clean the outside of the case, oil is still absorbed inside the aluminum. Once you strike an arc with the torch, that oil comes to the surface causing nasty contamination that can not be welded over without removing that material that has been contaminated.

With the case in question, the welding needs to be down on the inside of the case so it will not be able to be bolted to its other half. Just remove the seals, leave the bearings in as long as they are not too close to the area to be welded. Leaving the bearings helps keep bores in shape. Heat the case up, weld it, and cool it slowly.


Oh yeah, AC Cobras where all aluminum bodied and where welding with oxy-acetylene
^^^^ this is good advice.

and

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