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Old 12-24-2012, 12:11 PM   #15646
Jayrod1318
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Originally Posted by CynKrzy View Post
Time for an introduction - bought a project - '95 XR600R street legal and currently licensed. knew it was gonna be a rebuild, didn't know it was gonna be as much of one as I do now.

Haven't ridden dirt in 25 years, been riding Sportbikes, need to save that nonsense for the track, so I got this to do some fire roading and easy trail riding.


3rd gear is jacked up, little end of the rod is galled, found lotsa nice copper shavings in the oil tank screen, frame needs some welding (kickstand bracket) and looks like it's been welded on before. Suspension feels good, so that's a plus. Pretty much every bearing is gonna need to be replaced.

Cam & Rockers don't look too bad, though there is a lot of carbon on the valves & piston crown. Imagine at least new valve springs, piston, rings, rod etc. Should have done a leak-down test before we tore it apart, but the valves don't appear to leak (sprayed a bunch of carb-clear in the ports and nothing wept by the valves)

Any and all advise, recommendations, pointers etc, gladly accepted!

here's a pic of the beast after we stripped it.

there are several experts on this bike over at Thumper talk, they know everything about those engines, and i mean everything.

this is the 2000-2007 Xr650r thread.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:39 PM   #15647
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Originally Posted by Jayrod1318 View Post
there are several experts on this bike over at Thumper talk, they know everything about those engines, and i mean everything.

this is the 2000-2007 Xr650r thread.
Thanks, I'll look 'em up.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:05 PM   #15648
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Originally Posted by BigNastybrp View Post
I can't say for sure but my xr run 165-180 most of the time I set alarm at 215F. B
Shoot, mine runs around 220-230 all day long. I decided I needed to try to put the thermostat back in it. Hopefully it helps regulate the flow and keep the fluid in the rads longer.

I have my fingers crossed, I have a Spal fan I need to install, and next step after this is fluidynes.
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Old 12-25-2012, 07:24 AM   #15649
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Ive got oversize rads on mine and rarely see much over 150.

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Old 12-25-2012, 08:45 AM   #15650
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Originally Posted by sintax View Post
Shoot, mine runs around 220-230 all day long. I decided I needed to try to put the thermostat back in it. Hopefully it helps regulate the flow and keep the fluid in the rads longer.

I have my fingers crossed, I have a Spal fan I need to install, and next step after this is fluidynes.
It can reach 220 but shouldnt be that hot all or most of the time. Putting in the thermostat will not change the time the fluid is in the rads. I'd take it out again except outside temps are less than 5 C (40 F)...
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:28 AM   #15651
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Kind of a question with no answer, but how mych do you guys normally budget for a full teardown and rebuild? My bike doesn't 'need' much, just every bearing needs re-greased, fork oil needs changed, chain and sprokets are due, wiring needs cleaned up, etc. Just a bunch of little stuff. I'm thinking by that point I'm not very far off from taking it down to the frame and painting it, plus addressing anything else I may find along the way.

Think I can do it for under $500 if I stay out of the motor, with no suspension work? I'm laid off so I have plenty of time with little money right now. Or maybe wait until I have money, just do what needs done and plan on a rebuild next winter.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:27 AM   #15652
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Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Kind of a question with no answer, but how mych do you guys normally budget for a full teardown and rebuild? My bike doesn't 'need' much, just every bearing needs re-greased, fork oil needs changed, chain and sprokets are due, wiring needs cleaned up, etc. Just a bunch of little stuff. I'm thinking by that point I'm not very far off from taking it down to the frame and painting it, plus addressing anything else I may find along the way.

Think I can do it for under $500 if I stay out of the motor, with no suspension work? I'm laid off so I have plenty of time with little money right now. Or maybe wait until I have money, just do what needs done and plan on a rebuild next winter.
If you have the time to do all the work yourself it will cost you very little money , its the labour what hikes the cost , the parts are cheap . 500 should be more than enough .
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:40 AM   #15653
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If you have the time to do all the work yourself it will cost you very little money , its the labour what hikes the cost , the parts are cheap . 500 should be more than enough .
Cool, that's what I was hoping to hear. I have plenty of time, I've just never had one to the bare frame before and aren't real sure what all problems I might run into. I've also never messed with steering head bearings or swingarm bearings, so that will be a learner for me also.

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Old 12-27-2012, 10:55 AM   #15654
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Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Cool, that's what I was hoping to hear. I have plenty of time, I've just never had one to the bare frame before and aren't real sure what all problems I might run into. I've also never messed with steering head bearings or swingarm bearings, so that will be a learner for me also.

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Old 12-27-2012, 01:21 PM   #15655
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Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Cool, that's what I was hoping to hear. I have plenty of time, I've just never had one to the bare frame before and aren't real sure what all problems I might run into. I've also never messed with steering head bearings or swingarm bearings, so that will be a learner for me also.

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Once you find out how fun it is, Your'e gonna need 1500 bucks lol. Unless that's just me...Seems to happen with every bike I own
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:43 PM   #15656
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XR650R suspension advice

Hoping to get some opinions on spring rates for my XRR. I bought a set of slightly used springs (front and rear) 0.49kg/mm fronts and 11kg/mm rear. I weigh 220 lbs and do mostly dual sport rides carrying some gear (guessing 30lbs of gear?). The stock rear spring is obviously not heavy enough based on the excessive rear sag I'm getting. Racetech spring calculator is telling me that I need .549kg/mm fronts and 10.5 kg/mm rear. Would I be making a mistake switching to the heavier springs front and rear?
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:19 AM   #15657
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Originally Posted by mdlak View Post
Hoping to get some opinions on spring rates for my XRR. I bought a set of slightly used springs (front and rear) 0.49kg/mm fronts and 11kg/mm rear. I weigh 220 lbs and do mostly dual sport rides carrying some gear (guessing 30lbs of gear?).

Install those, front is a little firm near the end of a fuel run, but pretty good most of the time. I'm 220 and carried 30 pounds of gear on my old XRR with those same springs, 6 gallon tank too.
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:33 AM   #15658
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Originally Posted by mdlak View Post
Hoping to get some opinions on spring rates for my XRR. I bought a set of slightly used springs (front and rear) 0.49kg/mm fronts and 11kg/mm rear. I weigh 220 lbs and do mostly dual sport rides carrying some gear (guessing 30lbs of gear?). The stock rear spring is obviously not heavy enough based on the excessive rear sag I'm getting. Racetech spring calculator is telling me that I need .549kg/mm fronts and 10.5 kg/mm rear. Would I be making a mistake switching to the heavier springs front and rear?
That is pretty good setup for your weight , go for it .
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Old 12-28-2012, 12:21 PM   #15659
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XRR suspension

Thanks for the input!
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:35 AM   #15660
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Thanks for the input!
I run the same setup 49 front and 11 rear and its a waste improovement over the soft stock setup + smooth as butter with the new oil , they have recomended the same springs for me , but they only have the 49 for the front , but after testing it i think its fine , the 55kg rated spring would be too hard for me as i dont carry that much load only the coyote bags on the back .
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