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Old 01-20-2013, 05:39 PM   #15796
brucifer
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Eureka, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
The cable is new and oiled, freeplay is fine, valve clearence is in specs, timing is fine. I started the bike with a makeshift gas tank, without the cable. The bike revs itself up, dosen't respond to air screw movement.
It's driving me crazy.

Update:
Went to the garage, took off the carb.
-the throtle valve rotates around it's center(left-right) and the lower gap changes in size
-the valve has a bit of play and can rattle back and forth
-the levers that operate the throtle valve are worn

I will take the carb apart and check the extent of the wear.
That internal linkage was the source of hanging idle on my last 650R. I bought all new linkage components, installed them and the hanging idle was completely gone.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:21 PM   #15797
Cpt. Ron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unsung View Post
Thank the lord, I think that is the problem. I ran it for 30 seconds to check the oil, about to top it off. After I ran it I put it in gear and clutch it, and if I rock it twice it breaks loose and rolls good. I am trying to top this oil off, I've put 1 quart and a 1/4 in it just about, and it stays on the bottom centimeter of the dipstick. Every time I add more, it doesn't move. I think maybe if I start it I'll get better results? My question is, from the bottom of the dipstick to the upper mark, how much oil fills that gap? Another question I have is with the chain. I put a new chain on it, used a tool to rivet the masterlink in. One side of the masterlink is a little tighter I guess, because it's not letting the chain flex at that pivot point as easily as the rest of the chain, is this a problem? I can make it flex if I grab it and do it.
I've found the bike needs to be really warm to get an accurate oil reading. I'm talking like at least a ten minute ride, if not more. Just idling in your driveway isn't enough to get it warm and circulated. If you top off the oil when it's not warmed up, you'll end up with too much. From the minimum to maximum mark, I believe it's only 0.5 liters if memory serves me correctly. I've found that after doing a filter and oil change, if I fill the "tank" up to the very maximum when cold, it's good enough to run to get it warm to then get a final level check.

As for you master link, I'd run it but keep an eye on it. You won't be able to loosen it up after riveting it too tight, but you can replace it later if it doesn't loosen up.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:47 PM   #15798
Unsung
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
After a quick oil/filter change I just dump in 1.5 quarts to get me started. Check the oil with the engine idling is how I do it, about .5 from the bottom mark to the top. If you really work at it you can get the full 2.1 quarts out of the thing if you don't rush the oil change.

Get a sight glass kit for peace of mind, riding down the road you can just clutch it and let it idle, glance down and check the oil level.
Good idea. I realised how cold it was outside, so I let it run until the clutch cover got nice and warm, then checked it, and I'm good to go.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:56 PM   #15799
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucifer View Post
That internal linkage was the source of hanging idle on my last 650R. I bought all new linkage components, installed them and the hanging idle was completely gone.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:11 AM   #15800
achile
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Location: Brasov, Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
ACHILE -

-the throtle valve rotates around it's center(left-right) and the lower gap changes in size

This make me wonder if the slide has not been placed correctly on its alignment pin.
If in the correct position you should not be able to rotate the slide.
This will effectively hold it open causing it to rev like mad and not respond to air screw.
Remove the top cover and rotate the slide till it finds the alignment pin.
If set correctly the slides cutaway will be on the intake (air filter side)


JM-2008
The valve has a gap cut into it for the arm...I saw no guiding pin, but the holes and the axels of the linkage are enlarged and I think this is the problem. The right-left movement has a lot of amplitude.


@ Brucifer

Did it start easyer?
Did it respond to the air screw adjustments before/after?

achile screwed with this post 01-21-2013 at 01:44 AM
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:12 AM   #15801
RideFreak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
The valve has a gap cut into it for the arm...I saw no guiding pin, but the holes and the axels of the linkage are enlarged and I think this is the problem. The right-left movement has a lot of amplitude.


@ Brucifer

Did it start easyer?
Did it respond to the air screw adjustments before/after?
I think the side to side is normal, up-n-down is a different story.
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"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but to rather skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ... Holy Shit, what a ride!"
CL Adventure Ride 2013 /CL Revisited 2014 / 700 Miles of Scenic Utah Backcountry / MY VIDEOS
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:32 AM   #15802
brucifer
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Location: Eureka, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
The valve has a gap cut into it for the arm...I saw no guiding pin, but the holes and the axels of the linkage are enlarged and I think this is the problem. The right-left movement has a lot of amplitude.


@ Brucifer

Did it start easyer?
Did it respond to the air screw adjustments before/after?
My bike was pretty close to spot on with the jetting and float adjustment so it always started easy before and after. The mixture screw worked fine before and after as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I think the side to side is normal, up-n-down is a different story.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:42 AM   #15803
BuRPsa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
I have a set of these tanks up for sale ......ill show you guys first
These are very rare and not available to ya avrage punter

they hold 44 ltrs full exelent setup for long haul

these cost me 515 bucks so thats what there up forsale as
no mounting kit ..has to made by the owner ..not a real big job but skills are needed to fit them

the set i have forsale are clear IE white looking


pm me for more details ... i will post them anywhere

PM sent Sean, I want them.

PS thanks Beserker
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:26 AM   #15804
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unsung View Post
Good idea. I realised how cold it was outside, so I let it run until the clutch cover got nice and warm, then checked it, and I'm good to go.

Read your manual.


It's a dry sump motor.

I normally fill mine after an oil change with 1 liter, let run for a minute, stop, and start filling the last .6 or .8 depending if I changed the filter or not.

If you put over 1 liter ( quart) it will overfill. Just go off rough actual volumes for an oil change, then on your first ride make sure you check the oil after a short ride.

I normally check my oil everytime I fill gas or before every ride. Good practice, especially with these bikes.

I dont have a sight tube.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:28 AM   #15805
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
PM sent Sean, I want them.

PS thanks Beserker

Dooo ittt!!

Order some BIG springs while you're at it too.

I'd love a tank like that, just not sure where I'd need 750+ Km/tank.

Guess on a long trip you can skip filling in countries with expensive gas... =)
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:04 AM   #15806
stinkfinger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
I am replacing the factory springs on my XRR to suit my 240lbs. I am a novice (44 yr old) dirt rider. Any recommendations on going with Race Tech or Eibach, or any other band? The prices seem comparable.
Thank you.
I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
stuff, in my opinion.

Tony
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:19 AM   #15807
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkfinger View Post
I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
stuff, in my opinion.

Tony

That's often because if the spring is compressed too far you're changing where you are in the stroke. Higher up, softer dampening, lower down, stiffer dampening. Hence the harshness on mild stuff with a softer spring.

Suspension is nothing without the proper springs installed.
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:00 PM   #15808
AirCommando
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkfinger View Post
I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
stuff, in my opinion.

Tony
What spring rates are you using in the forks? Have you done any re-valving or modified the factory valves? Can I ask how much you weigh? Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #15809
kaijb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
Hey!

Sorry to bug you, but I have a problem that's driving me crazy!
I overhauled the top end of my piggy(piston rings, valves, seats, springs, camshaft bearings...you get the idea).
I dismantled the carb, cleaned it, set the level, needle setting(the needle is new)...etc.
1) the bike starts very hard
2) when it starts, the idle goes wild(from normal to 3000 revs)
3) very litle response from the air screw(new as well)
4) when I rev it, it dies after releasing the throtle

Alex
Look at the diagram below and where the Link Arm slides on to the Throttle Drum. There is a (split pin/roll pin) that holds them together. (you can see the hole on the throttle drum shaft as provision for it to pass through.

Your roll pin is flogged out allowing the link arm to move fractionally which is the basis for your issues. The roll pin is a one cent part but can cost much more when she does not shut off in to a corner.

The old pin will press out and the new one will tap in.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:53 PM   #15810
jm-2008
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Carby problem

I saw no guiding pin,

Achile,
You are correct.
Had my carbies mixed up.
Apologies for any confusion.

JM-2008
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