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Old 01-21-2013, 05:32 AM   #15796
brucifer
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Eureka, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
The valve has a gap cut into it for the arm...I saw no guiding pin, but the holes and the axels of the linkage are enlarged and I think this is the problem. The right-left movement has a lot of amplitude.


@ Brucifer

Did it start easyer?
Did it respond to the air screw adjustments before/after?
My bike was pretty close to spot on with the jetting and float adjustment so it always started easy before and after. The mixture screw worked fine before and after as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I think the side to side is normal, up-n-down is a different story.
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:42 AM   #15797
BuRPsa
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
I have a set of these tanks up for sale ......ill show you guys first
These are very rare and not available to ya avrage punter

they hold 44 ltrs full exelent setup for long haul

these cost me 515 bucks so thats what there up forsale as
no mounting kit ..has to made by the owner ..not a real big job but skills are needed to fit them

the set i have forsale are clear IE white looking


pm me for more details ... i will post them anywhere

PM sent Sean, I want them.

PS thanks Beserker
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:26 AM   #15798
Shibby!
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Location: Currently - Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unsung View Post
Good idea. I realised how cold it was outside, so I let it run until the clutch cover got nice and warm, then checked it, and I'm good to go.

Read your manual.


It's a dry sump motor.

I normally fill mine after an oil change with 1 liter, let run for a minute, stop, and start filling the last .6 or .8 depending if I changed the filter or not.

If you put over 1 liter ( quart) it will overfill. Just go off rough actual volumes for an oil change, then on your first ride make sure you check the oil after a short ride.

I normally check my oil everytime I fill gas or before every ride. Good practice, especially with these bikes.

I dont have a sight tube.
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:28 AM   #15799
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
PM sent Sean, I want them.

PS thanks Beserker

Dooo ittt!!

Order some BIG springs while you're at it too.

I'd love a tank like that, just not sure where I'd need 750+ Km/tank.

Guess on a long trip you can skip filling in countries with expensive gas... =)
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 01-21-2013, 08:04 AM   #15800
stinkfinger
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Location: North Mississippi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
I am replacing the factory springs on my XRR to suit my 240lbs. I am a novice (44 yr old) dirt rider. Any recommendations on going with Race Tech or Eibach, or any other band? The prices seem comparable.
Thank you.
I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
stuff, in my opinion.

Tony
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:19 AM   #15801
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkfinger View Post
I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
stuff, in my opinion.

Tony

That's often because if the spring is compressed too far you're changing where you are in the stroke. Higher up, softer dampening, lower down, stiffer dampening. Hence the harshness on mild stuff with a softer spring.

Suspension is nothing without the proper springs installed.
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:00 PM   #15802
AirCommando
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Location: Tucson, AZ
Oddometer: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkfinger View Post
I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
stuff, in my opinion.

Tony
What spring rates are you using in the forks? Have you done any re-valving or modified the factory valves? Can I ask how much you weigh? Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:29 PM   #15803
kaijb
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Sydney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
Hey!

Sorry to bug you, but I have a problem that's driving me crazy!
I overhauled the top end of my piggy(piston rings, valves, seats, springs, camshaft bearings...you get the idea).
I dismantled the carb, cleaned it, set the level, needle setting(the needle is new)...etc.
1) the bike starts very hard
2) when it starts, the idle goes wild(from normal to 3000 revs)
3) very litle response from the air screw(new as well)
4) when I rev it, it dies after releasing the throtle

Alex
Look at the diagram below and where the Link Arm slides on to the Throttle Drum. There is a (split pin/roll pin) that holds them together. (you can see the hole on the throttle drum shaft as provision for it to pass through.

Your roll pin is flogged out allowing the link arm to move fractionally which is the basis for your issues. The roll pin is a one cent part but can cost much more when she does not shut off in to a corner.

The old pin will press out and the new one will tap in.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:53 PM   #15804
jm-2008
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Location: South Eastern Australia
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Carby problem

I saw no guiding pin,

Achile,
You are correct.
Had my carbies mixed up.
Apologies for any confusion.

JM-2008
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:44 PM   #15805
stinkfinger
Chickenfat dirtbiker
 
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Location: North Mississippi
Oddometer: 1,229
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
What spring rates are you using in the forks? Have you done any re-valving or modified the factory valves? Can I ask how much you weigh? Thanks for the info.
I didnt change the stock fork springs or modded, just fresh fluid+adjust.
7wt if i remember correctly. I have no doubt it could use
some stiffer front springs,but it just is not that bad, so i never got around
to it. I'm 300lbs and the biggest prob i had was bottoming the rear.
Even figuring the preload setting differential between a softer/stiffer
spring, I think you'll find the progressivly wound stuff is just a different
breed from stock in the way it behaves and I still would buy a stiffer
spring than what is reccomended, because of the way the progressive
winding acts at speed. Just my opinion,

Tony
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:35 PM   #15806
Beserker
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Dooo ittt!!
I'd love a tank like that, just not sure where I'd need 750+ Km/tank.
Burp wants to go ride this:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=57397.0

Check out the bikes, we carried 50+ liters at a time, and still ran out of fuel.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:41 PM   #15807
Beserker
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Location: Down South
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Suspension is nothing without the proper springs installed.
+1 .. with proper springs you can tune it to cater for a wide range of conditions. To soft, and you can only tune it for not bottoming out, and all the rest is a compromise in terms of suspension quality.

I have a chart that will tell you what spring rate you need considering your weight (You + luggage + fuel) If you need it, drop me a pm (It has a jetting table on, a gear ratio calculator etc etc)
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:17 AM   #15808
BuRPsa
Finally growing up..
 
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beserker View Post
Burp wants to go ride this:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=57397.0

Check out the bikes, we carried 50+ liters at a time, and still ran out of fuel.

Correct, plus then East to the Indian Ocean. Can't have fuel enough, and what better place to carry it than in this tank? Turns out to be new too, and here's me asking Sean if it still was somewhat presentable..... call me Dick from now on bru
Sean reminded me I'll need an underslung exhaust, so I'll start thinking about that as well. Mind, would give me a chance to fit a watertank under the R-panel then too, so now I got even more work cut out
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:52 AM   #15809
Beserker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Sean reminded me I'll need an underslung exhaust, so I'll start thinking about that as well.
Reynard at Scorch is your man...a real artist.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:24 PM   #15810
AirCommando
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Location: Tucson, AZ
Oddometer: 44
Can anybody recommend some good brake pads for my BRP?

Thank you
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