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Old 01-22-2013, 05:52 PM   #15811
Lostsaffa
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
Can anybody recommend some good brake pads for my BRP?

Thank you
OEM are the best I have used, believe it or not!
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:57 PM   #15812
slickwill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
OEM are the best I have used, believe it or not!
Same here.

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Old 01-22-2013, 09:43 PM   #15813
BigNastybrp
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I like the EBC red pads, oem are good as well.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #15814
Beserker
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNastybrp View Post
I like the EBC red pads, oem are good as well.
The red EBC ones look "Factory" and lasts! (Or maybe I'm slow)
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:59 AM   #15815
achile
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Brasov, Romania
Oddometer: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaijb View Post
Look at the diagram below and where the Link Arm slides on to the Throttle Drum. There is a (split pin/roll pin) that holds them together. (you can see the hole on the throttle drum shaft as provision for it to pass through.

Your roll pin is flogged out allowing the link arm to move fractionally which is the basis for your issues. The roll pin is a one cent part but can cost much more when she does not shut off in to a corner.

The old pin will press out and the new one will tap in.
The two pins are worn and the holes are oval. The bolts from a 520 master link are the perfect size. I sent them to a machine shop. They called me today to inform me that the link is ready for pick-up. 10 $
If I would have ordered the new parts, it would have cost me about 80$.





Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
I saw no guiding pin,

Achile,
You are correct.
Had my carbies mixed up.
Apologies for any confusion.

JM-2008
:)) Don't worry, mate... I get them mixed up also.






SO....for all you piggy owners with crazy idles, check the linkage. The cheap way to fix them is replacing the pins and boring bigger holes.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #15816
Shibby!
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Currently - Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beserker View Post
The red EBC ones look "Factory" and lasts! (Or maybe I'm slow)

I had relatively worn front Honda pads on when I started my last trip. I had back-ups to repace them on the trip when needed. 28,000 KM's and I still haven't replaced the damn set.

They are worn down pretty far, and they were working in relatively "clean" environment, but I'm shocked they are hanging in there with moderate to sometimes heavy use at all speeds.

My back-ups are cheap alternatives, but I will no doubt be buying Honda if I have to replace again.

By clean I was refering to mostly gravel, dirt, and pavement use. The bike wasn't cleaned once in almost 5 months of riding (it's bad luck).
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:35 PM   #15817
Ridin Dirty
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: WMASS
Oddometer: 185
Back in the Saddle...almost

Last year was terrible and my BRP only saw the light a couple times. I now have a fun ride scheduled for this Summer. Time to stop the procrastination and take care of some much needed maintenance. I have a long list of things I'm going to touch. Not sure if I should start my own thread but I'll start here for now.

I plan on lacing up new rims, adding more electrical items (fuse box, fan, aux), "doing the swingarm", wheel/suspension bearings (lube & replace), chain/sprockets, oil sight tube and any other stuff I have time for. I may be biting off more than I can chew. I have a few months but not much actual shop time because of work and family. So I appreciate any advice.

My first order of business is to source a swingarm tool. I haven't touched the swingarm and I need to get to those poor (destroyed) bearings. I imagine that it's a mess in there. My plan is to get the nut off and soak it (a long time)until I try to wrestle it out. I have other things to work on so I don't need to rush it or panic. I understand that I can make a tool with a cutting wheel and socket. I'd prefer to find a proven tool before I put my fabrication skills to the test. Where can I buy one? Anyone want to loan me theirs?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:04 PM   #15818
DocAxeYarYar
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 784
XRR Swing arm tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin Dirty View Post

My first order of business is to source a swingarm tool. I haven't touched the swingarm and I need to get to those poor (destroyed) bearings. I imagine that it's a mess in there. My plan is to get the nut off and soak it (a long time)until I try to wrestle it out. I have other things to work on so I don't need to rush it or panic. I understand that I can make a tool with a cutting wheel and socket. I'd prefer to find a proven tool before I put my fabrication skills to the test. Where can I buy one? Anyone want to loan me theirs?
Hey best of luck on doing some work on your bike! The swingarm pivot on my bike was pretty well corroded where it goes though the engine cases. Lots of penetrating oil is needed let it soak for several days, keep applying. I used a brass drift to pound out the pivot, be gentle as you can.

Here is the pivot bolt, fairly corroeded, but covered in Liquid Wrench when I took it out. *




On Ebay I found this seller Turbo Suzukis that makes custom stainless steel tools. I paid via PayPal, a total of 31 GBP, or $49 including shipping. They arrived at my house one week later! These are very high quality and have a 1/2 drive on the back so you can use a tourque wrench.

You can reach Kev Drake directly at: TURBOSUZUKIS@YAHOO.CO.UK

He was very responsive and helpful. Highly recommended!

These tools fit outer and inner locking rings on the swingarm. Its important to put the right tourque on the adjusting bolt to get the correct tension on the swingarm. Hope this helps!

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Old 01-24-2013, 05:52 AM   #15819
Ridin Dirty
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: WMASS
Oddometer: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
Hey best of luck on doing some work on your bike! The swingarm pivot on my bike was pretty well corroded where it goes though the engine cases. Lots of penetrating oil is needed let it soak for several days, keep applying. I used a brass drift to pound out the pivot, be gentle as you can.

Here is the pivot bolt, fairly corroeded, but covered in Liquid Wrench when I took it out. *




On Ebay I found this seller Turbo Suzukis that makes custom stainless steel tools. I paid via PayPal, a total of 31 GBP, or $49 including shipping. They arrived at my house one week later! These are very high quality and have a 1/2 drive on the back so you can use a tourque wrench.

You can reach Kev Drake directly at: TURBOSUZUKIS@YAHOO.CO.UK

He was very responsive and helpful. Highly recommended!

These tools fit outer and inner locking rings on the swingarm. Its important to put the right tourque on the adjusting bolt to get the correct tension on the swingarm. Hope this helps!

That's exactly what I need! Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have parts sourced and start tearing things down. I don't have enough heat in my garage to overcome negative temperatures anyway!
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:07 AM   #15820
stinkfinger
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: North Mississippi
Oddometer: 1,228
I use this, its not perfect but works.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=3802195

Tony
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Old 01-25-2013, 03:28 PM   #15821
lstzephyr
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Huntsville, Al
Oddometer: 1,781
Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
Alright gents I need a couple extra opinions on my current situation. I can't get my bike to start again after it died the other day. It was running fine on a new engine rebuild until I turned into the bar and it sputtered and died. I figured it was low on fuel and didn't bother with it. When I went to leave I couldn't get it to start. It hasn't started since.

I have:
  1. New fuel
  2. new petcock
  3. new fuel line
  4. new spark plug
  5. Checked for spark(has spark on spark tester and when holding plug to head)
  6. Top end is fresh(new piston/rings/valves/seals/tensioner/cam chain etc less than 8 engine hours ago)
  7. Checked cam chain, cam timing, valve clearance(all in spec)
  8. Checked wiring
  9. Cleaned the carb thoroughly ( tore it down completely and had it dunked over the weekend by the local machine shop)
  10. Attempted bump starting (the bike only locks the back tire, I need a bigger hill)
  11. pulled cylinder off and checked valves/piston. Everything looks fine.
  12. New coil
  13. Swapped cdi with ebay xr400 cdi that was stated as pulled from running bike
  14. I'm working in a 70 degree shop so temp is not an issue.

After the carb cleaning it would periodically fire 3-4 revolutions then die. Barely more than the spin of the kick. Starting fluid has no effect other than raising the amount of backfires.

I swapped on my recently rebuilt HS40 Carb (mikuni tm40) to see if it was still a plugged pilot circuit. No change except it will fire 3-4 revolutions every other kick now. I think that is because the accelerator pump allows me to toss fuel in. I didn't want to add another variable(new carb) but I wanted to rule out the stock carb as the issue.

So my thinking is that it could be one of a few things:

Unlikely:
  1. Loss of compression(it is still more difficult to kick than before rebuilt so it appears to have compression)
  2. CDI(only failure symptoms I can find say that there is no spark with a dead cdi, I have spark so probably not cdi)
  3. Stator(the wires to the stator appear fine and I could not find any cuts or abrasions)
  4. Plugged pilot circuit in both carbs (I checked both thoroughly, especially the hs40)
  5. coil(new coil)

Probable:

  1. Misadjusted idle in both carbs (I have moved the idle screws around while trying to start it)
  2. automatic decompressor
  3. coil pickup

My current thinking is that I have spark but the bike won't fire more than 3-4 revolutions so the spark may be weak or out of time.

Can the coil pickup or stator be tested? How?

Any other ideas?
Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. There was another guy a while back that asked us to check some cdi's for him. Does anyone know if he got it fixed and what was wrong? I'm running low on ideas.

Edit: I started a thread to try to get more opinions so feel free to answer either there or here. Both posts are identical. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post20574772

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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Old 01-25-2013, 03:54 PM   #15822
nick5446
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Oddometer: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. There was another guy a while back that asked us to check some cdi's for him. Does anyone know if he got it fixed and what was wrong? I'm running low on ideas.

Edit: I started a thread to try to get more opinions so feel free to answer either there or here. Both posts are identical. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post20574772

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
No an expert, but all an ICE needs to run is fuel, air and spark. If you've got spark, shoot some starting fluid in there and it should fire. If it starts and then dies then you've got a fuel delivery issue. If it doesn't do anything, then you don't have good or consistent spark.

Also, if you installed an auto-decompressor (sounds like you did), it should be working fine if it's hard to turn over like you say it is.

CDI sounds suspect to me if you put a used eBay one on. They're prone to failure anyway and you've got one that (in my mind) is suspect anyway. Their failure can be intermittent.

Take a video of you trying to start it. "No start" symptoms can vary greatly and mean a lot of different things.

Is the gas on??
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:26 PM   #15823
RideFreak
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: County Lockup, NM
Oddometer: 6,036
Quote:
Originally Posted by lstzephyr View Post
Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. There was another guy a while back that asked us to check some cdi's for him. Does anyone know if he got it fixed and what was wrong? I'm running low on ideas.

Edit: I started a thread to try to get more opinions so feel free to answer either there or here. Both posts are identical. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...2#post20574772

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Alan, the XR400 CDIs are pretty reliable, like the 650R OE unit they are made with honda's typical quality, yes it could be that but symptoms sound the same with both. Stick the 650R cdi on, (they start a little easier without the extra advance). Carb symptoms sound similar across both carbs so I'm thinking it's not that. Aside from a clogged jet, they don't just quit.

Have you gone back into the topend and seen if there is a tight valve, that will make them a bitch to start and with recent topend work, the valves will typically tighten up to some extent as they seat into the head after a rebuild. Tight valve can cause firing back through the carb too. Since it ran ok initially, assembly was probably ok. Personally I'd avoid starting fluid, it can cause as many problem as it solves and doesn't seem to be helping anyway.

I'm not against a good pull start though, tie the rope to the pull vehicle and wrap it around the rh footpeg once with the end coming up to your hand on the bars (with enough slack to allow for turning the bars and using the throttle). Use pressure with your rh foot to keep it secured to the "pulled" bike, if anything goes wrong release the end in your hand and lift your foot, it will come right off. Use 3rd or 4th and let the clutch out easy at about 20mph.

Pickup can be tested with an OHM meter, specs are in the service manual. Also purchasing a part from e-bay has no bearing on it's reliability, I've bought and sold many items on E-bay, have yet to get a bad MC componet. Chineese electronics, yes but not MC parts, yes it could be bad but you can buy bad parts anywhere, E-bay has nothing to do with it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:49 PM   #15824
lstzephyr
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Location: Huntsville, Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Alan, the XR400 CDIs are pretty reliable, like the 650R OE unit they are made with honda's typical quality, yes it could be that but symptoms sound the same with both. Stick the 650R cdi on, (they start a little easier without the extra advance). Carb symptoms sound similar across both carbs so I'm thinking it's not that. Aside from a clogged jet, they don't just quit.

So far both cdis and both carbs have similar symptoms and no effect on starting. I agree with you that it is probably not cdi or carb related.

Have you gone back into the topend and seen if there is a tight valve, that will make them a bitch to start and with recent topend work, the valves will typically tighten up to some extent as they seat into the head after a rebuild. Tight valve can cause firing back through the carb too. Since it ran ok initially, assembly was probably ok. Personally I'd avoid starting fluid, it can cause as many problem as it solves and doesn't seem to be helping anyway.

I pulled the topend and checked everything a second time last week. I tore it down to the piston. Valves have been checked 4-5 times and they moved the first time. No change in valve spec since and no apparent effect on starting.

I'm not against a good pull start though, tie the rope to the pull vehicle and wrap it around the rh footpeg once with the end coming up to your hand on the bars (with enough slack to allow for turning the bars and using the throttle). Use pressure with your rh foot to keep it secured to the "pulled" bike, if anything goes wrong release the end in your hand and lift your foot, it will come right off. Use 3rd or 4th and let the clutch out easy at about 20mph.

Pickup can be tested with an OHM meter, specs are in the service manual. Also purchasing a part from e-bay has no bearing on it's reliability, I've bought and sold many items on E-bay, have yet to get a bad MC componet. Chineese electronics, yes but not MC parts, yes it could be bad but you can buy bad parts anywhere, E-bay has nothing to do with it.
Responses in red. I guess checking the coil pickup is my next step.

I'll try a pull start when it warms up outside.

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by nick5446 View Post
No an expert, but all an ICE needs to run is fuel, air and spark. If you've got spark, shoot some starting fluid in there and it should fire. If it starts and then dies then you've got a fuel delivery issue. If it doesn't do anything, then you don't have good or consistent spark.

There is no change with starting fluid except for increased backfires. I agree that it is probably ignition quality or ignition timing related.

Also, if you installed an auto-decompressor (sounds like you did), it should be working fine if it's hard to turn over like you say it is.

Auto-decompressor is stock. I have found a couple instances of it failing and bleeding compression on thumpertalk but the signs and symptoms are not clear.

CDI sounds suspect to me if you put a used eBay one on. They're prone to failure anyway and you've got one that (in my mind) is suspect anyway. Their failure can be intermittent.

Ebay cdi is something I just swapped today. I have been trying to get it running with the stock cdi that has been on the bike the last 4-5 years I have owned it without any issue. I wanted to see if it caused a change.

Take a video of you trying to start it. "No start" symptoms can vary greatly and mean a lot of different things.

Is the gas on??
Yep the gas is on. I did that once with my xr600r I owned before this bike. I rode this bike daily for a year or two and never had an issue starting it. I'm assuming my kicking technique and general pre-start voodoo dance is correct.

Thanks for the ideas!

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Old 01-25-2013, 05:10 PM   #15825
ZXRaziel
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Grey skyes and rain of Good old England ( NEast)
Oddometer: 475
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
Can anybody recommend some good brake pads for my BRP?

Thank you


I use the genuine pads for the front and
Goldfren S3 Ceramic Carbon

for the rear end , i like to have more agressive bite for the rear brake , but that is just personal preference .
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