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Old 01-21-2013, 07:44 PM   #15811
stinkfinger
Chickenfat dirtbiker
 
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: North Mississippi
Oddometer: 1,221
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
What spring rates are you using in the forks? Have you done any re-valving or modified the factory valves? Can I ask how much you weigh? Thanks for the info.
I didnt change the stock fork springs or modded, just fresh fluid+adjust.
7wt if i remember correctly. I have no doubt it could use
some stiffer front springs,but it just is not that bad, so i never got around
to it. I'm 300lbs and the biggest prob i had was bottoming the rear.
Even figuring the preload setting differential between a softer/stiffer
spring, I think you'll find the progressivly wound stuff is just a different
breed from stock in the way it behaves and I still would buy a stiffer
spring than what is reccomended, because of the way the progressive
winding acts at speed. Just my opinion,

Tony
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:35 PM   #15812
Beserker
Red Rider
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Dooo ittt!!
I'd love a tank like that, just not sure where I'd need 750+ Km/tank.
Burp wants to go ride this:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=57397.0

Check out the bikes, we carried 50+ liters at a time, and still ran out of fuel.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:41 PM   #15813
Beserker
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Suspension is nothing without the proper springs installed.
+1 .. with proper springs you can tune it to cater for a wide range of conditions. To soft, and you can only tune it for not bottoming out, and all the rest is a compromise in terms of suspension quality.

I have a chart that will tell you what spring rate you need considering your weight (You + luggage + fuel) If you need it, drop me a pm (It has a jetting table on, a gear ratio calculator etc etc)
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:17 AM   #15814
BuRPsa
Finally growing up..
 
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Joined: Feb 2011
Location: Pretoria
Oddometer: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beserker View Post
Burp wants to go ride this:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=57397.0

Check out the bikes, we carried 50+ liters at a time, and still ran out of fuel.

Correct, plus then East to the Indian Ocean. Can't have fuel enough, and what better place to carry it than in this tank? Turns out to be new too, and here's me asking Sean if it still was somewhat presentable..... call me Dick from now on bru
Sean reminded me I'll need an underslung exhaust, so I'll start thinking about that as well. Mind, would give me a chance to fit a watertank under the R-panel then too, so now I got even more work cut out
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:52 AM   #15815
Beserker
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Sean reminded me I'll need an underslung exhaust, so I'll start thinking about that as well.
Reynard at Scorch is your man...a real artist.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:24 PM   #15816
AirCommando
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Oddometer: 44
Can anybody recommend some good brake pads for my BRP?

Thank you
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:52 PM   #15817
Lostsaffa
Half Man Half BRP
 
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Cannon Hill, Brisbane
Oddometer: 635
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
Can anybody recommend some good brake pads for my BRP?

Thank you
OEM are the best I have used, believe it or not!
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:57 PM   #15818
slickwill
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Joined: Dec 2011
Location: Ohio
Oddometer: 209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
OEM are the best I have used, believe it or not!
Same here.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:43 PM   #15819
BigNastybrp
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Joined: Dec 2007
Location: high speed boogie land, Sunny Ca.
Oddometer: 654
I like the EBC red pads, oem are good as well.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #15820
Beserker
Red Rider
 
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Down South
Oddometer: 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNastybrp View Post
I like the EBC red pads, oem are good as well.
The red EBC ones look "Factory" and lasts! (Or maybe I'm slow)
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:59 AM   #15821
achile
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Brasov, Romania
Oddometer: 289
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaijb View Post
Look at the diagram below and where the Link Arm slides on to the Throttle Drum. There is a (split pin/roll pin) that holds them together. (you can see the hole on the throttle drum shaft as provision for it to pass through.

Your roll pin is flogged out allowing the link arm to move fractionally which is the basis for your issues. The roll pin is a one cent part but can cost much more when she does not shut off in to a corner.

The old pin will press out and the new one will tap in.
The two pins are worn and the holes are oval. The bolts from a 520 master link are the perfect size. I sent them to a machine shop. They called me today to inform me that the link is ready for pick-up. 10 $
If I would have ordered the new parts, it would have cost me about 80$.





Quote:
Originally Posted by jm-2008 View Post
I saw no guiding pin,

Achile,
You are correct.
Had my carbies mixed up.
Apologies for any confusion.

JM-2008
:)) Don't worry, mate... I get them mixed up also.






SO....for all you piggy owners with crazy idles, check the linkage. The cheap way to fix them is replacing the pins and boring bigger holes.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:32 AM   #15822
Shibby!
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Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Currently - Canada
Oddometer: 1,656
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beserker View Post
The red EBC ones look "Factory" and lasts! (Or maybe I'm slow)

I had relatively worn front Honda pads on when I started my last trip. I had back-ups to repace them on the trip when needed. 28,000 KM's and I still haven't replaced the damn set.

They are worn down pretty far, and they were working in relatively "clean" environment, but I'm shocked they are hanging in there with moderate to sometimes heavy use at all speeds.

My back-ups are cheap alternatives, but I will no doubt be buying Honda if I have to replace again.

By clean I was refering to mostly gravel, dirt, and pavement use. The bike wasn't cleaned once in almost 5 months of riding (it's bad luck).
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:35 PM   #15823
Ridin Dirty
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: WMASS
Oddometer: 182
Back in the Saddle...almost

Last year was terrible and my BRP only saw the light a couple times. I now have a fun ride scheduled for this Summer. Time to stop the procrastination and take care of some much needed maintenance. I have a long list of things I'm going to touch. Not sure if I should start my own thread but I'll start here for now.

I plan on lacing up new rims, adding more electrical items (fuse box, fan, aux), "doing the swingarm", wheel/suspension bearings (lube & replace), chain/sprockets, oil sight tube and any other stuff I have time for. I may be biting off more than I can chew. I have a few months but not much actual shop time because of work and family. So I appreciate any advice.

My first order of business is to source a swingarm tool. I haven't touched the swingarm and I need to get to those poor (destroyed) bearings. I imagine that it's a mess in there. My plan is to get the nut off and soak it (a long time)until I try to wrestle it out. I have other things to work on so I don't need to rush it or panic. I understand that I can make a tool with a cutting wheel and socket. I'd prefer to find a proven tool before I put my fabrication skills to the test. Where can I buy one? Anyone want to loan me theirs?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:04 PM   #15824
DocAxeYarYar
RideDualSport.com
 
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 781
XRR Swing arm tool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin Dirty View Post

My first order of business is to source a swingarm tool. I haven't touched the swingarm and I need to get to those poor (destroyed) bearings. I imagine that it's a mess in there. My plan is to get the nut off and soak it (a long time)until I try to wrestle it out. I have other things to work on so I don't need to rush it or panic. I understand that I can make a tool with a cutting wheel and socket. I'd prefer to find a proven tool before I put my fabrication skills to the test. Where can I buy one? Anyone want to loan me theirs?
Hey best of luck on doing some work on your bike! The swingarm pivot on my bike was pretty well corroded where it goes though the engine cases. Lots of penetrating oil is needed let it soak for several days, keep applying. I used a brass drift to pound out the pivot, be gentle as you can.

Here is the pivot bolt, fairly corroeded, but covered in Liquid Wrench when I took it out. *




On Ebay I found this seller Turbo Suzukis that makes custom stainless steel tools. I paid via PayPal, a total of 31 GBP, or $49 including shipping. They arrived at my house one week later! These are very high quality and have a 1/2 drive on the back so you can use a tourque wrench.

You can reach Kev Drake directly at: TURBOSUZUKIS@YAHOO.CO.UK

He was very responsive and helpful. Highly recommended!

These tools fit outer and inner locking rings on the swingarm. Its important to put the right tourque on the adjusting bolt to get the correct tension on the swingarm. Hope this helps!

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Old 01-24-2013, 05:52 AM   #15825
Ridin Dirty
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: WMASS
Oddometer: 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buell78753 View Post
Hey best of luck on doing some work on your bike! The swingarm pivot on my bike was pretty well corroded where it goes though the engine cases. Lots of penetrating oil is needed let it soak for several days, keep applying. I used a brass drift to pound out the pivot, be gentle as you can.

Here is the pivot bolt, fairly corroeded, but covered in Liquid Wrench when I took it out. *




On Ebay I found this seller Turbo Suzukis that makes custom stainless steel tools. I paid via PayPal, a total of 31 GBP, or $49 including shipping. They arrived at my house one week later! These are very high quality and have a 1/2 drive on the back so you can use a tourque wrench.

You can reach Kev Drake directly at: TURBOSUZUKIS@YAHOO.CO.UK

He was very responsive and helpful. Highly recommended!

These tools fit outer and inner locking rings on the swingarm. Its important to put the right tourque on the adjusting bolt to get the correct tension on the swingarm. Hope this helps!

That's exactly what I need! Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have parts sourced and start tearing things down. I don't have enough heat in my garage to overcome negative temperatures anyway!
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