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Old 02-06-2013, 05:00 PM   #15946
Shibby!
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It can, and does cause wear on the shaft.

I'd look for a tighter one. Saying this from experience and seeing signs of some slight wearing on mine.

(I'm assuming you mean wiggle on the shaft. As in the splines aren't perfectly matching)
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:07 PM   #15947
PineyMountainRacing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
It can, and does cause wear on the shaft.

I'd look for a tighter one. Saying this from experience and seeing signs of some slight wearing on mine.

(I'm assuming you mean wiggle on the shaft. As in the splines aren't perfectly matching)
Exactly, wiggle is the word I was looking for. it's a new Moose steel unit. The splines on the shaft are not worn, I'll pop it back off tomorrow and compare to the original one.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:18 PM   #15948
Hoologan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mur View Post
I know this is beating a dead horse,but I need some opinions on what spring rates to use. I weigh 185 i'm 6'5" and I plan on packing some lightweight things in my coyote saddle bags... I have stock springs in there, and I want to do all the Borynack fork mods, with the shim stacks etc. I'm just torn on what spring rates to use. Should I spring it for the added weight of my gear(40-60lbs?) and oversized tank(4.3)? I was thinking of going with .45 in the front and 10.5 or 10.2 in the back?

Any help appreciated!
Hey buddy! I would highly suggest sending your forks and shock to precision concepts. They did a full rebuild on mine for about $550 and feels awesome. I ended up with .47 in the front and 11kg in the rear with custom valving at both ends. I'm 190 lbs and with the 6.3 and a full coyote on the TAT, it performed flawlessly. Really soaked up the bumps. It also works great when I'm unloaded and running the smaller tank. I explained to Diane the various uses for my bike and that I wanted something that would work under various conditions.

Give Diane a call. She's real knowledgeable and can answer any questions you may have. PC definitely knows XR's.
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:22 PM   #15949
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Here's my setup sheet.



Invoice:

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Old 02-06-2013, 09:06 PM   #15950
Mur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoologan View Post
Hey buddy! I would highly suggest sending your forks and shock to precision concepts. They did a full rebuild on mine for about $550 and feels awesome. I ended up with .47 in the front and 11kg in the rear with custom valving at both ends. I'm 190 lbs and with the 6.3 and a full coyote on the TAT, it performed flawlessly. Really soaked up the bumps. It also works great when I'm unloaded and running the smaller tank. I explained to Diane the various uses for my bike and that I wanted something that would work under various conditions.

Give Diane a call. She's real knowledgeable and can answer any questions you may have. PC definitely knows XR's.
Hey! Thanks for the detailed reply. This is just what I want: something that will work when I'm loaded down, and not.

It really helps to get a look at the receipt, I was gonna do the shim stacks/ drill out the compression valve myself,but sending it out could be an option
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:23 PM   #15951
Lostsaffa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoologan View Post
Here's my setup sheet.



Invoice:

A similar overhaul here in Australia is more like $1200+ and that ain't by someone as well known as PC. You guys get some good prices on bikes and services in the US!
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:29 PM   #15952
Mur
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Originally Posted by Lostsaffa View Post
A similar overhaul here in Australia is more like $1200+ and that ain't by someone as well known as PC. You guys get some good prices on bikes and services in the US!
Lol I thought $500 was bad
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:02 PM   #15953
seancampbell
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I'm having the same issues.... any ideas?

Sean


Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
Here is my situation:

I am at 2000'. I am running a 22.5 PJ and a 1.2 AJ. The pilot screw is set at three turns open per the manual as a starting place for tuning.

The bike starts fine on the first kick and idles with the choke on. It dies shortly after the choke is turned off.
With the choke off the bike will start momentarily and then die. If I catch it running with the throttle it will rev and is rideable. Coming back down to idle it dies.

I am wondering if it could be the float level, the manual does mention a too high of a float level making idle tuning impossible.


Second question, what is a good initial place to set the idle adjuster. Once it is idling of course.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:50 AM   #15954
achile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seancampbell View Post
I'm having the same issues.... any ideas?

Sean
lean mixture or an air leak
check the needle position and the jetting
check the throtle valve for wear
check the carb boots
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:13 AM   #15955
Sean-0
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put her on the dyno today




51rwhp at 6600rpm ....its ok ...but i want more
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:22 AM   #15956
ThuleSwe
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Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
put her on the dyno today

51rwhp at 6600rpm ....its ok ...but i want more
Is a good number
Tell us any mod etc !
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:30 AM   #15957
Sean-0
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just a stage 2 cam ......open stock pipe&headers .. stock carb ...open side cover so pretty bog stock
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:26 AM   #15958
Kiko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
lean mixture or an air leak
check the needle position and the jetting
check the throtle valve for wear
check the carb boots
Also check the rubber purge cap on the right side of the carb. Mine was cracked and I had to replace it to get the idle right.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:46 AM   #15959
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
Exactly, wiggle is the word I was looking for. it's a new Moose steel unit. The splines on the shaft are not worn, I'll pop it back off tomorrow and compare to the original one.

I've used Primary Drive Sprockets for years on my XRR. The rears are good, the fronts wiggle, a lot.

Now with wear, I'm talking I have around 40,000 KM's on my bike, but if you can prevent it now I would.

I have a JT front and rear and the front fits WAY better then the Primary Drive. I may continue to run their rears (20$) but I will no longer run their ultra cheap fronts (9$). The sprockets work great, but the fronts don't fit well.
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Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095

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Old 02-07-2013, 07:54 AM   #15960
dohcfox
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Shibbly,

First off, thank you for all of your input in this thread on your experiences with the XRR! I am the third owner a 2000 650R that I mainly commute to work on. The Vapor computer on the bike doesn't give me a good idea on total mileage, but I suspect it to have somewhere between 8,000 and 10,000 kilometers on the clock. Assuming that I perform all proper maintenance on the bike, what are your opinions on the XRR versus other large bore thumpers in the context of really long distance travel? My wife and I are considering a trip from our home in Seattle, WA to South America. She rides a new CRF250L.

Thanks!!
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