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Old 02-06-2013, 10:02 PM   #15961
seancampbell
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I'm having the same issues.... any ideas?

Sean


Quote:
Originally Posted by AirCommando View Post
Here is my situation:

I am at 2000'. I am running a 22.5 PJ and a 1.2 AJ. The pilot screw is set at three turns open per the manual as a starting place for tuning.

The bike starts fine on the first kick and idles with the choke on. It dies shortly after the choke is turned off.
With the choke off the bike will start momentarily and then die. If I catch it running with the throttle it will rev and is rideable. Coming back down to idle it dies.

I am wondering if it could be the float level, the manual does mention a too high of a float level making idle tuning impossible.


Second question, what is a good initial place to set the idle adjuster. Once it is idling of course.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:50 AM   #15962
achile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seancampbell View Post
I'm having the same issues.... any ideas?

Sean
lean mixture or an air leak
check the needle position and the jetting
check the throtle valve for wear
check the carb boots
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:13 AM   #15963
Sean-0
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put her on the dyno today




51rwhp at 6600rpm ....its ok ...but i want more
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:22 AM   #15964
ThuleSwe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
put her on the dyno today

51rwhp at 6600rpm ....its ok ...but i want more
Is a good number
Tell us any mod etc !
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:30 AM   #15965
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just a stage 2 cam ......open stock pipe&headers .. stock carb ...open side cover so pretty bog stock
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:26 AM   #15966
Kiko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by achile View Post
lean mixture or an air leak
check the needle position and the jetting
check the throtle valve for wear
check the carb boots
Also check the rubber purge cap on the right side of the carb. Mine was cracked and I had to replace it to get the idle right.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:46 AM   #15967
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineyMountainRacing View Post
Exactly, wiggle is the word I was looking for. it's a new Moose steel unit. The splines on the shaft are not worn, I'll pop it back off tomorrow and compare to the original one.

I've used Primary Drive Sprockets for years on my XRR. The rears are good, the fronts wiggle, a lot.

Now with wear, I'm talking I have around 40,000 KM's on my bike, but if you can prevent it now I would.

I have a JT front and rear and the front fits WAY better then the Primary Drive. I may continue to run their rears (20$) but I will no longer run their ultra cheap fronts (9$). The sprockets work great, but the fronts don't fit well.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:54 AM   #15968
dohcfox
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Shibbly,

First off, thank you for all of your input in this thread on your experiences with the XRR! I am the third owner a 2000 650R that I mainly commute to work on. The Vapor computer on the bike doesn't give me a good idea on total mileage, but I suspect it to have somewhere between 8,000 and 10,000 kilometers on the clock. Assuming that I perform all proper maintenance on the bike, what are your opinions on the XRR versus other large bore thumpers in the context of really long distance travel? My wife and I are considering a trip from our home in Seattle, WA to South America. She rides a new CRF250L.

Thanks!!
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:32 AM   #15969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dohcfox View Post
Shibbly,

First off, thank you for all of your input in this thread on your experiences with the XRR! I am the third owner a 2000 650R that I mainly commute to work on. The Vapor computer on the bike doesn't give me a good idea on total mileage, but I suspect it to have somewhere between 8,000 and 10,000 kilometers on the clock. Assuming that I perform all proper maintenance on the bike, what are your opinions on the XRR versus other large bore thumpers in the context of really long distance travel? My wife and I are considering a trip from our home in Seattle, WA to South America. She rides a new CRF250L.

Thanks!!

My opinion is somewhat based on experience and some on internet talk mostly based off manual recommendations.

I've finished a Latin American trip where I rode from Moab to Guatemala and back to Calgary, Ab. Not only did this trip include A LOT of off-road, but my bike has pretty much only seen off-road riding locally. Our terrain tends to be very hard on bikes. Lots of increased wear on bearings, drives, suspension. Not so much on engines because of the slower technical riding. The bike was fully torn down (except engine) and refreshed with grease and bearings where needed prior to leaving.

My XRR did the 26,000 KM trip without a hick-up. Just prior to that it did 4200 KM's of Baja. I did change the oil every 2000 KM's and valve check/adjustment every 4000km's. Air filters as required. Oil filters every SECOND oil change. Besides that it did not use a single peice of adjustment, tightening, or part added. (besides chain tension). The chain I did use for the trip finally snapped at 24,000 KM's. Sprockets made it the remaining way but were very worn, and my front pads which were relatively worn to start the trip, are still on the bike now (and pretty much ready for replacement). I have a 280MM wave brake rotor.

The question is did it need this much maitenance? Does it require that frequent of oil changes? What makes the XRR motor different then a DR (ok, non water cooled which is worse!) and XRL's, KLR's, KLX / DRZ, etc. They all hold around 1.8-2.2 liters of oil in a shared sump but have much higher service intervals.

The one thing I worry about on my bike is valve movement. They do tighten, everytime I adjust them they are adjusted and not just checked. Exhaust seem much better than intake. From what I can tell (without much back-up) is that the intake valves are the weak point on this engine. It's to the point that I want to buy another one and swap all my parts over. Essentially only gaining a fresh frame and engine. People generally refer to intake valve wear as being poorly filter servicing, but I change the filters quite often locally, and whenever I figured they were dirty on the trip. Maybe it's airbox design? I've never been fond of the panel filter.

With that being said, since I've already invested the money into setting this bike up how I like it, and knowing the capabilities of this bike, even loaded, I believe it's still a good ADV bike. Personally if my valves didn't move as much and I didn't have to change the oil as many times, I'd be nearly 100% happy. I wasn't too keen on the transmission, but short gear boxes have never been a favourite of mine. Too many shifts with varying speed, and speed varies A LOT down there.

For this reason, I hope to leave for S.A fall of 2014 where I'll be on another XRR. Besides spending 1000's of dollars on another ride (DR650) I'd rather spend that money to extend my trip that much longer. I'd hate to think how much I have into this XRR yet alone the money I'd have to sink into a DR to get it how I like it.

My next trip ride I'll be changing oil and filter every 4000-4500 KM's and maybe checking valves every oil change. I think there's possibilities of extending the oil change intervals further without issue. With further intervals you also have the option of waiting to find better synthetic oil. I may even do some tests this summer by sending samples in to get them analized. If results show good oil at 2000 KM's then I know it can be stretched to 3000 no problem. A local buddy will help me out with this as doubling my info on XRR's since we do most of our longer trips together. His has about 14,000km's on it and also did the ~6000km CDT trip without a single issue.

So yea. These bikes are capable of moderate mileage for a thumper. I bet I could keep riding mine for another 30,000 but I don't want to be going into a 40-50,000 KM ride with 40,000 already on the ODO.

On a trip, remember that oil filters for the XR650 fit all other XR bikes. This helps because most Honda stores should have a filter being the small XR's are, or were at one time very popular. Also Honda has some XR bikes that are street legal down there but not overly common because of the cost.

If I missed anything let me know. I know there are some on here that won't stretch their oil changes past 1000KM's, but also know others change it at 4000-5000 already. These people are by far the minority though. As far as I've seen, nobody has really tested their oil and wear properties in that oil.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:23 AM   #15970
atravlr
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Thumb Just an opinion.

My belief is that oil viscosity breaks down a whole lot faster at high/racing temps than just regular highway/dirt road travel. As you know in S. America and in other poorer parts of the world oil changes very rarely occurr at 3,000 mile intervals. Due to expense and locations if oil runs low they just add. I have seen 1985 Toyotas, Chevys that have never had oil changes. Thanks for your info on maintenance. I also on the planning stage on driving my 2001 XR down south and now I think I can take a chance on extending my miles.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:44 AM   #15971
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atravlr View Post
My belief is that oil viscosity breaks down a whole lot faster at high/racing temps than just regular highway/dirt road travel. As you know in S. America and in other poorer parts of the world oil changes very rarely occurr at 3,000 mile intervals. Due to expense and locations if oil runs low they just add. I have seen 1985 Toyotas, Chevys that have never had oil changes. Thanks for your info on maintenance. I also on the planning stage on driving my 2001 XR down south and now I think I can take a chance on extending my miles.
This is true, but you have two issues:

1) Gnarly, slow riding can cause extreme oil temperatures. Both hot engines and insulating mud on the engine, etc.

2) Highway speeds create lots of heat from gear boxes, etc.


I don't have a fancy oil temp gauge, but I believe I'll splurge on my next bike. One more thing to worry about while riding =)

Running quality oil is key I think. You can find it quite easy in Mexico and Guatemala as long as you can get to some of the larger centers. Otherwise you can always run some "suspect" oil for shorter intervals no issues. From what I've read this isn't an issue all the way down as long as you plan when and where to buy oil. Rather then hanging on to it, I just change it when I have it. I don't have room on my travels to pack 2 liters of oil and the 12$ it costs it's not a huge loss to change it a bit early.

Although I know oil can be run very long, I prefer to be reasonable and limit wear. I think 4000-4500 KM's isn't asking too much from this engine. If anybody runs their oil that long, mind doing the tests? I'm sure we can pitch in the cost of the oil analysis (15$ or so).

I'll attempt to do it a few times this summer. I left my oil in for now (900 km on it) assuming I'd do some winter riding. I'm this far in so I'll just keep riding it and see what happens. Get it tested at 2000km, then see what results show. Problem is it's either Rotella or Castrol Edge in there. I forget!

One thing I do know is the bike does not like to start when running 20W-50 in cold weather. I know that's thicker than recommended, but all that was available and I had mostly highspeed highway to ride. One night while camping on a river bed I woke up to frost on my bike. I kicked that thing for like 15 minutes. JUST barely started. I was pretty happy but knew a military stop check was a few KM up the hill. Their hummers would have been able to tow me out of the valley and bump start me on the highway.
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Eat. Sleep. Ride - The Great Divide: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...4#post19193704
Go, Get Lost - Heading South: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735690
Dirt Donkeys Do Baja: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671095


Shibby! screwed with this post 02-07-2013 at 09:51 AM
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Old 02-07-2013, 10:28 AM   #15972
dohcfox
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Thank you! You confirm what I thought I knew about the XRR's capabilities! I am going to do my first valve adjust with oil change/filter cleaning etc etc this weekend. The only other thing on the list of things to do for this trip is to get the wife's CRF up to adventure spec.

I'd love to hear the results of your oil tests. I've been using Honda's 10W40 since getting the bike.

JT





Quote:
Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
This is true, but you have two issues:

1) Gnarly, slow riding can cause extreme oil temperatures. Both hot engines and insulating mud on the engine, etc.

2) Highway speeds create lots of heat from gear boxes, etc.


I don't have a fancy oil temp gauge, but I believe I'll splurge on my next bike. One more thing to worry about while riding =)

Running quality oil is key I think. You can find it quite easy in Mexico and Guatemala as long as you can get to some of the larger centers. Otherwise you can always run some "suspect" oil for shorter intervals no issues. From what I've read this isn't an issue all the way down as long as you plan when and where to buy oil. Rather then hanging on to it, I just change it when I have it. I don't have room on my travels to pack 2 liters of oil and the 12$ it costs it's not a huge loss to change it a bit early.

Although I know oil can be run very long, I prefer to be reasonable and limit wear. I think 4000-4500 KM's isn't asking too much from this engine. If anybody runs their oil that long, mind doing the tests? I'm sure we can pitch in the cost of the oil analysis (15$ or so).

I'll attempt to do it a few times this summer. I left my oil in for now (900 km on it) assuming I'd do some winter riding. I'm this far in so I'll just keep riding it and see what happens. Get it tested at 2000km, then see what results show. Problem is it's either Rotella or Castrol Edge in there. I forget!

One thing I do know is the bike does not like to start when running 20W-50 in cold weather. I know that's thicker than recommended, but all that was available and I had mostly highspeed highway to ride. One night while camping on a river bed I woke up to frost on my bike. I kicked that thing for like 15 minutes. JUST barely started. I was pretty happy but knew a military stop check was a few KM up the hill. Their hummers would have been able to tow me out of the valley and bump start me on the highway.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #15973
FlyGuy
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Question Hay Shilbbi

The one thing I worry about on my bike is valve movement. They do tighten, everytime I adjust them they are adjusted and not just checked. Exhaust seem much better than intake. From what I can tell (without much back-up) is that the intake valves are the weak point on this engine. It's to the point that I want to buy another one and swap all my parts over. Essentially only gaining a fresh frame and engine. People generally refer to intake valve wear as being poorly filter servicing, but I change the filters quite often locally, and whenever I figured they were dirty on the trip. Maybe it's airbox design? I've never been fond of the panel filter.

Just to let people know my experience with intake valves I switched to the Kibbles black diamond valves and with near 12,000 miles (19,000 kmi) I have only checked clearance one time and have yet needed an adjustment, Prior to that with stock valves it required adjustment roughly every 3,000 mi or when it started backfiring and dying at idle
The Kibbles have what looks like a nitride coating and that may wear out eventually causing accelerated wear, but so far they are great. I would recommend them.
This somewhat discredits the poor air filter theory.

On a trip, remember that oil filters for the XR650 fit all other XR bikes. This helps because most Honda stores should have a filter being the small XR's are, or were at one time very popular. Also Honda has some XR bikes that are street legal down there but not overly common because of the cost.

I use a stainless screen type filter, 35 micron I am very happy with it. MSR has them for very reasonable pricing, They are reusable and filter well
I also recommend the magnetic drain plugs for the case and down tube, It makes it easy to identify potential problems with some experience.


If I missed anything let me know. I know there are some on here that won't stretch their oil changes past 1000KM's, but also know others change it at 4000-5000 already. These people are by far the minority though. As far as I've seen, nobody has really tested their oil and wear properties in that oil.

If you run the magnetic drain plugs I believe you can see the wear from the buildup of magnetic particles.
from my not too scientific experience I found 1,500 (2500 Kmi) road miles to be a good point to change Oil at, If I run farther I see an acceleration of particles on the magnets.
I run Rotella T6


I hope you keep your 650r going, I plan on riding mine for a few more years of fun.
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:17 PM   #15974
Capt. Egregious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-0 View Post
just a stage 2 cam ......open stock pipe&headers .. stock carb ...open side cover so pretty bog stock
Ya gotta put a pumper carb on her. The best mod I've done besides the Borynack fork mod.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:26 PM   #15975
Cpt. Ron
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Throttle Housing

Dumb question here. My bike came with an Edelbrock and a Motion Pro throttle housing that goes with it. Looks like this:




I'm going to try out my new-to-me stock carb and am wondering if I need to buy an OEM throttle housing/throttle tube, or one like this:




Anybody know the answer?
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