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Old 02-12-2013, 02:29 AM   #16021
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Is there anything I can do to the surface of the crankcase cover to get it to seal better with the oil filter cover?
Yes.
Take it off, clean well. Then get a flat piece of glass (thickish is better), and you better check if it is flat with a ruler or why, use a little oil on the ruler's side. Mix a fine grinding paste with some oil, and spread this over the glass. Then place the sidecover with the filterhousing's surface square on the glass, and move the housing over the glass in an 8-shape - only a light & constant pressure is required.
The trick is to keep the lot square on the glass. Check the housing's surface, and when the full surface is ground (like in it touches the glass everywhere) it is flat, or flat enough to obtain a seal with your new filtercover.
Clean VERY well afterwards, you don't want grinding paste in your engine!

I have not checked the sidecover, but the above should work (and only will work!) if the filterhousing's surface is the most-proud part. If it's not you'll have to find a machine shop, and have the surface skimmed by an end-mill.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:47 AM   #16022
tennessee thumper
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Thanks for the fork link.

Pressure treat ya!
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:58 PM   #16023
medisyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothride View Post
Sounds like a cut oring or no oring is being used for it to leak.
I have tried 4 brand new o-rings that were lightly oiled and a new filter cover, plus new from honda bolts.

BuRPsa I will do what you suggest. I think that is the only way, short of replacing it. Should I use/order new gaskets for the clutch cover and between the engine and cover? Or are they reusable? Thanks again guys for all your help.
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:05 PM   #16024
atravlr
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Question Possible vent problems?

My bike stuttered and stalled, after losing power while riding aprroximately 5 miles. It seemed like it ran out of gas. Started right up on first kick then sputtered and cough for a few seconds then cleared. Drove for a few miles and the same thing happened but at least the bike did not quit. This pattern continued for 2 miles until I got it home. As I peered under my Acerbis large tank I could see tiny bubbles in the gas line hose from the tank to the carb. Tried the next day and after a 3+ miles the same thing occured, same small bubbles almost foam like. I do have a small in line filter. Any answers or similiar problems corrected from my fellow inmates would be appreciated
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:18 PM   #16025
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That's strange...

I'd rule out the vents by removing and blowing them out to confirm they are clear. Next, take your fuel filter off and put fuel through it the wrong way (dumping fuel into a waste container). Confirm it flows well.

Test.

If still an issue, pop the bowl off and see if everything is clean and the float still works.

Check out the pilot jet while your in there confirming it's clean and clear. Don't go reaming it out with something, but confirm no build-up or blockage.

I can't explain the foam/bubbles because the carb isn't pressurized.

Really dumb question, but when were the valves last checked?
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:09 PM   #16026
jm-2008
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[QUOTE=atravlr;20710982]My bike stuttered and stalled, after losing power while riding aprroximately 5 miles. It seemed like it ran out of gas. Started right up on first kick then sputtered and cough for a few seconds then cleared. Drove for a few miles and the same thing happened but at least the bike did not quit. This pattern continued for 2 miles until I got it home. As I peered under my Acerbis large tank I could see tiny bubbles in the gas line hose from the tank to the carb. Tried the next day and after a 3+ miles the same thing occured, same small bubbles almost foam like. I do have a small in line filter. Any answers or similiar problems corrected from my fellow inmates would be appreciated

Suspect the bubbles may be a common occurence thats not noticed, if you had a leak it would be relatively obvious.

Check the following -
  • Water in the float bowl
  • Blocked carby breather hoses
Water in the float bowl will allow the bike to start/idle but will sputter or cut out once the throttle is opened up.
Back it off again and they will (usually) idle/run.
Remove the float bowl cap carefully and have a look inside for droplets or a big globule of water rolling around in there.
Droplets often cause missing/sputtering, a big globule will stop fuel entering the mainjet and cuts the motor completely, until you back off the throttle wherein fuel is drawn in through the pilot jet.

Blocked breather hoses can cause similar issues, if the hoses are long enough snip an inch or so off the end (at an angle) and have a look through for blockages.

Note, this applies to most carbys with a float/bowl (possibly not an Eddie).
Hope it helps

JM-2008
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:35 PM   #16027
atravlr
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Thumb Possible vent problems?

Thanks for the help. I did check the float bowl and no water. I will check everything else on your recommendations. Thank you men for the quick response.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:04 PM   #16028
mitchn06
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after spending several months on dodgeforum.com, i got the pickup mods/maintenance/ideas out of the way, several months on garagejournal.com, i got the ambition to get the garage how i see better fit (only lived in the house one year) got all my ideas and a plan for the garage down. now somehow i landed back on ADV. i was twenty five pages behind, but i got all caught up and now i'm ready to go again!!! YEEHAA
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:20 AM   #16029
BuRPsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medisyn View Post
Should I use/order new gaskets for the clutch cover and between the engine and cover? Or are they reusable?
New gaskets, always & everywhere. If the old ones come off fine keep them but use for emergencies only. Mind, o-rings may be used quite a few times, but you may want to have a spare one or two.



JM2008 is on the button with water in the floatbowl. Clearly this man is experienced in this, and now don't go ask him how he knows it
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:28 AM   #16030
larryboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atravlr View Post
I do have a small in line filter.

Change it for a new one or throw it away and don't put one back on.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:32 AM   #16031
crypto666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryboy View Post
Change it for a new one or throw it away and don't put one back on.

I pulled a cheatgrass seed out of my recently purchased CRF float bowl the other day. How that could work its way inside I have no idea, but I like running a filter, and carry an extra bec ause sometimes they break.

Maybe the PO installed the grass seed as some performance mod???
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:44 PM   #16032
ride4fun562
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woohooooo Cleaned my bike good for once, got rid of two pesky oil leaks, andddddddddd did a valve adjustment by using the method where you let one side go down and do the other, seems to be spot on so I wont be going back to the hassle of finding tdc, happy day.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:15 PM   #16033
kjazz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atravlr View Post
My bike stuttered and stalled, .......
Sure sounds a lot like what happened to a buddy of mine recently. His ran like a champ then stuttered and stalled. kick, kick, kick, kick, kick, start........ then same. Fuel system, carb, hmmmmm......? Hey why not throw a new plug in...? It worked !!! Looking closely at his old plug, it appeared to have a few small cracks in the insulator. Cheap fix if it works.
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Old 02-13-2013, 03:41 PM   #16034
Shibby!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride4fun562 View Post
woohooooo Cleaned my bike good for once, got rid of two pesky oil leaks, andddddddddd did a valve adjustment by using the method where you let one side go down and do the other, seems to be spot on so I wont be going back to the hassle of finding tdc, happy day.

I've never been able to get that to work.. I fully understand it, but it seems to never get my valves right.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:31 PM   #16035
ride4fun562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
"Valve adjustment for noobies"

'Ere ya are mate, and note this is a com-ple-te-ly different procedure than Honda prints in their manual - however a lot more easy:

Make sure the engine is cold.
Take off tank, and wash the engine's top & framebits as the bare minimum.
Take off the valve covers first, then take out plug (so the small bolts cannot fall into the cylinder - duh).
Put bike on a stand (jack, not sidestand), and put it in 5th gear.
Rotate the rear wheel forward - on this, do not EVER rotate it backwards or allow it to turn back (block it with a piece of wood through the spokes or whatever) as even a little of this will mess with the auto-decomp system on this bike which will lift an exhaust valve!! So no 'back', nothing!
Turn rearwheel fwd until you've convinced yourself that first the intakes go down, then up, and next the exhaust valves do ditto (hey, you said 'noobies' )
Turn even more forward, but maybe slower this time, until you actually notice that at a certain point, just when the intakes come up again, the exhaust valves ALSO start to move - which is correct, any 4stroke does this, not to worry.
Now rotate the wheel slow, very slow, until the exhaust valves are just about at their deepest point... then stop rotating, and block the wheel if necessary.
Now adjust the intake valves as per below.
To adjust the exhaust valves you turn (again, always forward only) the wheel until the intake valves are somewhere at their deepest point. As a sidenote, the exhaust valves are more difficult to reach on this bike, less handspace available.

Adjusting valves.
Valveplay is to be: Intake: 0.15mm (0.006"), Exhaust 0.20mm (0.008").
The valves to adjust will have some play, they are loose, which can be felt, so check this, move the rocker up & down - see? If no play make sure (by rotating rear wheel forward, see above) that the other valves are quite a bit down if not fully down. If this is the case but you still feel no play then know you did postpone adjusting for too long, the play's gone... which is a bad thing.
However, there normally is a bit of play.
Take the correct-thickness feeler gauge and make sure it is spotlessly clean - then try to slide it inbetween rocker & valve. They slide-in best sideways, but find your own best way.
If it goes in - just - and feels not too tight but also not too loose (this is experience which noobies do not have, sorry, however they can learn this by doing all this often) then that valve is set perfect.
If either too loose or when the feeler gauge won't go in, undo the locking-nut with a ringspanner (10mm, spotlessly clean - and only morons use open ended spanners) whilst holding the actual adjuster with a well-fitting screwdriver (which also is spotlessly clean). The idea is to loose the nut whilst the adjuster stays where it is. Once loose wind the nut a half turn up (more loose).
Now turn the adjuster with the screwdriver-only (yes, the nut will also turn) until the feeler gauge just goes in & and can be slid to & fro - just, tot too loose, not too tight.
Now hold the adjuster into position with the screwdriver whilst you turn the nut tight - of course by sliding the screwdriver through the ringspanner. Watchitnow, this only sounds easy, but in practise the adjuster wants to turn with the nut when tightening it - and it may not turn!
Try, fiddle & try again, but get the nut locked whilst the feeler gauge still just slides inbetween the adjuster & rocker. If this is the case then the valve is set correctly... so proceed with the other one(s).
How much torque for those nuts? Never mind the manual, they must be tight whilst not over-tightened (refer remark above regarding experience), but basic gutfeel will get you there. MIND though, it is less than the force you needed to loosen them in the first place! There is oil now inbetween you see, so this lubes the lot now. Apply a bit less for tightening than for taking them loose.

If this all reads daunting then relax, there's a way to check yourself.
Say you 'think' you set the In's to 0.15 - because this size feeler goes in.
Good - does the 0.20 also go in?
It should not, so if it does re-adjust that valve, but a notch tighter this time.
Got a 0.18 feeler in the set? This one should not go in either, however with enough force one can do anything... or cut your fingers


Once you get handier with this, here's an idea. Next time, before you loosen the nuts, you first measure what the actual play is! You may want to write this down for later, may come in handy. Valves 'move' you see, they normally become tighter over time (due to wear), and at a certain point in life this goes quick to fast even... and this point you want to notice, before it get really expensive. This is the time where you take the top off, however, with your new bike this is a loooong way to go still.

Have fun doing this. If you really will be doing this for the first time I'd advise to, after having adjusted all, rotate the wheel again a bit, and then check your own settings. If done correct it all will be fine, but this will give you piece of mind. Also check all nuts before you close her up - and if you turn one then you must re-adjust that valve again.


Old post but great for people like me , if you're still around can you go on to the next part of taking the top off and replacing the usual parts (for dummies) because I'm pretty sure my right intake valve has seen better days. It is almost all the way backed up on the adjustment so much that I'm running out of adjustment which can only be bad right?.
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