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Old 02-14-2013, 11:40 PM   #16051
mdlak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mur View Post
Yeah it looks like im gonna grab some seals as well. Do it right ONCE. lol Thanks for the tip! I could just see myself getting frustrated(I hate staked nuts).

What kind of seals did you get? I was thinking of getting an All Balls kit like this It comes with a bunch of goodies that would be over 100 bucks OEM...
SKF seals/dust caps. This is what a local suspension guy recommended. My bike only has about 1000 miles on it so I'm hoping everything else is good. The other parts appear to be in really good shape so I'm going to reuse them.
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:47 PM   #16052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdlak View Post
SKF seals/dust caps. This is what a local suspension guy recommended. My bike only has about 1000 miles on it so I'm hoping everything else is good. The other parts appear to be in really good shape so I'm going to reuse them.
I see. Thanks for the info. Let me know how it goes! I was gonna do an up to date write up on the Borynack Mods, but I decided to be lazy lol.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:53 AM   #16053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdlak View Post
I decided to do it right and get new seals. Looking forward to being "insanely happy" with the results. I'm optimistic!

Mur, so far the hardest part is removing the staking on the compression core. Take your time. I forced the nut off too soon and broke off a small piece of the aluminum threads. Won't be a problem but I could see the threads on the core getting really messed up if you rush it. I bought a M8X1.0 tap and die just to make sure the threads were good on the core and the piston rod.

Make sure the threads are good on both the shaft and the nut. I managed to mess the threads on the nut while taking it off without proper filing of the staking on my shock shaft the second time I did it. If you look at the price for that peice of kit you'll get a sick feeling in your stomach.

For less than that part new I bought a whole new set of forks and shock and just used them for parts.
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:59 AM   #16054
mdlak
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Originally Posted by Shibby! View Post
Make sure the threads are good on both the shaft and the nut. I managed to mess the threads on the nut while taking it off without proper filing of the staking on my shock shaft the second time I did it. If you look at the price for that peice of kit you'll get a sick feeling in your stomach.

For less than that part new I bought a whole new set of forks and shock and just used them for parts.
Shaft and nuts are good!
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:26 AM   #16055
stuntheavy
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Originally Posted by the_hulkamaniac View Post
http://www.nossmachine.com/fcr_adapters.htm

It's very close fit, I've been running mine for a few years now. I epoxied it on, then had it bored out to 42.5mm, which is usually the largest you can go without getting the billet venturi ring.

You epoxied it on and then bored it? What did you bore it with? Do you have any pictures?

How much did the aadapter You?

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Old 02-15-2013, 11:07 AM   #16056
COXR650L
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Carb help

So I am hoping someone can offer some insight to a Carb issue I keep having on my Dads XRR.

Intermittently it runs gas out of the overflow. It does not do it all the time and never when cold. I have literally pulled the carb apart about 10 times trying to fix this. The carb has been cleaned, float level set to 19mm (and then moved in either direction trying to get it to stop) new float assembly, and new needle and seat. The carb appears to function fine off the bike, but after riding for about 20 min it will be pouring out the over flow.


What is the issue? I dont know what else to check???
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:20 AM   #16057
crypto666
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Originally Posted by stuntheavy View Post
What did you bore it with?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

He bored with a slide show from his vacation.

SOrry, I couldn't help it.

Everyone I know of takes it to a machine shop to have it done on a mill or lathe.

You try doing at home, but success is not likely unless you live in a machine shop.
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Old 02-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #16058
Kiko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COXR650L View Post
So I am hoping someone can offer some insight to a Carb issue I keep having on my Dads XRR.

Intermittently it runs gas out of the overflow. It does not do it all the time and never when cold. I have literally pulled the carb apart about 10 times trying to fix this. The carb has been cleaned, float level set to 19mm (and then moved in either direction trying to get it to stop) new float assembly, and new needle and seat. The carb appears to function fine off the bike, but after riding for about 20 min it will be pouring out the over flow.


What is the issue? I dont know what else to check???
Some of the aftermarket gas cap vent hoses have an in-line check valve that can cause a problem.
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:09 PM   #16059
COXR650L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiko View Post
Some of the aftermarket gas cap vent hoses have an in-line check valve that can cause a problem.
I thought about that but its the stock gas cap with just a straight hose.....
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:03 PM   #16060
the_hulkamaniac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntheavy View Post
You epoxied it on and then bored it? What did you bore it with? Do you have any pictures?

How much did the aadapter You?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

$65 like it said on the site, I used an epoxy from my bodyshop, but JB Weld will do, don't use to much sand and clean the the panels that touch. Make sure the vent holes don't get plugged and are aligned

Here is something to consider, http://www.tokyomods.com/carburetion/carburetion.html the accessory carb kit is very good. For the money I would just send them your carb plus adapter and let them do it all.

Plus you will have to heat and shape your tank, the stock one was hard to do. The IMS was really easy to make it fit.

I'll get a picture up this weekend of how mine fits.
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:14 PM   #16061
the_hulkamaniac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crypto666 View Post
He bored with a slide show from his vacation.

SOrry, I couldn't help it.

Everyone I know of takes it to a machine shop to have it done on a mill or lathe.

You try doing at home, but success is not likely unless you live in a machine shop.
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Old 02-15-2013, 11:24 PM   #16062
BuRPsa
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Hulk,

I'm sure Stunt asked why you you first glued it on and then next/afterwards had it bored out - which of course is silly to do, I'd bore/lathe it first, then mount it. I actually doubt you did, if only for the difficult clamping-in into a lathe's head.
Stunt: turn out first, then glue on. As he said pay good attention not to block any venting holes/bores, you'll end up with a nightmare.


Cox,

check if the float does not stick, like in it must 'rattle' when you've got the carb in your hands (empty, no fuel). If not find the cause, some have reported it does stick sometimes.
Otherwise, check the screen of your fuel tap (petcock) - in A1 condition? If not add an inline fuel filter, and, contrary to what some have said here recently I believe in them, never had a single problem with them.
But also, wash your tank. Add some (washed, coarse!) sand to some petrol, and shake the tank in all positions until it is cleaner than when new. Rinse out, re-rinse again & again, then mount the (obviously removed - duh!) tap and you're good to go.
19mm eh? I believe you, correct size too, but you did measure this whilst rotating the calb & blowing through the fuel line to determine at what carb-angle the needle closes, and measure at that angle? If not do this, it's the correct procedure, and you'll get a different floatheight (closing sooner!) than when fully upside-down.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:55 PM   #16063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuRPsa View Post
Hulk,

I'm sure Stunt asked why you you first glued it on and then next/afterwards had it bored out - which of course is silly to do, I'd bore/lathe it first, then mount it. I actually doubt you did, if only for the difficult clamping-in into a lathe's head.
Stunt: turn out first, then glue on. As he said pay good attention not to block any venting holes/bores, you'll end up with a nightmare.


.
I used an aluminium bonding epoxy, Similar to Wurth Powerbond. Let the stuff setup and it's basically one piece. I tore the carb down and sent it off for machine work. The Noss adapter is made for a 41mm carb, I didn't want any chance of the transition being off, plus i wanted a larger carb. I sent it to a shop that does a lot of machine work for me they bored it without a problem and their porting guy flowed in the transition because it was a straight bore.

It's a really nice carb,

I have a 43.5mm unit that was worked over by Dasa Racing but I would need to get another Noss and have it matched. But I'm really happy with what the 42.5mm carb does for the 650r, I don't feel the need to go ahead with the larger carb.
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #16064
Bench Racer
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BRP Rear Fender Brace

Hey. First post here at ADV. I've been lurking for a while. I thought I'd show the brace I made today for the rear fender. Now I have no experience welding but I'm a pretty hands on guy. So I thought I would give it a try. I have the tools available to use, here's what I came up with. 3/4"-1/16" square tubing, 1/8"-1" flat bar.

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Old 02-17-2013, 11:38 AM   #16065
ZXRaziel
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Bad news , decided to adjust the chain for the first time today , i knew about the problems others have had with the adjustment screws , and did loads of soaking with release oil in preparation for the operation (started weeks in advance ) , did the right side , cleaned and lubed , moved to the left side , it felt siezed , i was carefull but the left side screw snapped i am so angry , the design its flawed so badly , even if you know about the problem ,



if the screw rusted from inside you are fu..ed , more farkling neded and not enough time
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